Tony240ZT
-
Posts
559 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony240ZT
-
-
I think it'd only be fair if you wet sanded and waxed the paint before putting it through the tests. Well at least do some of it that way so you have a real world comparison.
-
I've run one on my 7M-GTE for a few hundred miles, no problems yet, but I do consider it a throw away turbo. If it blows up I'll pick up the pieces and put a name brand one in. The 7M-GTE can get away with a larger turbo than the L28ET though, but I'm sure with a slightly smaller A/R you could get it to work just fine.
The size is more like a T-61
-
I like it a lot!
240sx's are way cooler than civics.
-
Bummer, but the music is entertaining.
-
Hey guys, a few years back I bought a can of this stuff in a satin black to paint my interior (under carpet). It's very thick right out of the can, and dries to a very durable surface. I just applied it with a paint brush, didn't wet sand. It does like to self level. I didn't do very much prep work, just wanted the coverage.
I have another Z car that could use some paint. Was thinking of doing a BRE paint job look alike. Since I primarily use the car for off road fun I think this would be perfect. I bet after you finish one of these jobs you'll be a wet sanding master.
Look foward to seeing someone do something shiny
-
I've done it, and then shot it clear coat. Looked nice for a while.. Doesn't hold up well to chemicals such as oil and engine cleaners.
That was about 4 years ago. Looks pretty much the same now, just more dull.
Powder coat the cover if you want a gloss like color finish.
Here are some that I've had powder coated in the past:
I still have 3 Turbo covers out in the garage I've been meaning to clean up and get coated.
-
Well, seems like there isn't any drop in spring solution, but the European springs are slightly higher in the rear and stiffer, so I picked up a set on a group buy. Will drop in a set of KYB's and bump stops. May fab up a spacer for the struts to get a little more clearance to fit 225/70 R14's at some point. Right now I have a set of 215/70 R14's that I'll throw on.
Anyone else taking their Z off roading? I own a 2005 Frontier NISMO off road, and no doubt the Z car is more fun in the dirt (well maybe I worry too much about the new truck to get it that dirty).
-
I've been having fun driving one of my 240z's on some dirt trails lately. I'd like to get setup a little better for some of the bumps that I encounter out there. Currently the rear shocks/springs don't seem like they provide enough support for the ruts, they will bottom out. Can anyone suggest a suitable strut/spring combo that I could easily bolt in without having to go with coil overs?
-
right click on link, go to properties, copy out the url, paste that into new browser window.
-
Not sure if this was possible, but could you have had the disc backwards? Looks like those springs were hitting your flywheel bolts.
I initially installed my disc in backwards in my 7m-gte, luckly nothing touched, but I couldn't get it to disengage at all.
-
Thank you for making and sharing the videos, very intertaining and inspiring.
Kalvin may not be so hard on supras if he saw a supra and z mate.
I look foward to the updates!
-
Prowler Orange (I think 2002)
More Pics here http://www.mlinks.net/~aktar/ebay/73240z/
Was thinking of painting it the new 350Z orange color, bu it was a bit too gold for me. This is a nice rich color with very fine metal flake, almost looks like a candy color over a silver.
-
Here is an above engine picture of my previously owned `73 with a L28ET:
The 7M does seem shorter, and I had to move it further back to get the shifter in a good spot. The rear of the valve covers are under the hood latch support, and it would be tight removing the head if I had studs installed. I figure I'll have to do what a lot of the V8 guys do to the hood latch support.
This car has a very distinct sound to it when under boost that I will record for you guys within the week. Sadly I think the TRD clutch isn't going to be enough, I felt it slip under boost on the freeway today.
It is hard to explain to someone the experience of a good sized turbo car, expecially right as it spools up when you're not expecting it. The moment before the turbo hits you think the car is going well enough to pass any ricer you may see, a short time after that a rush of air all around you pushes the car foward so hard all you can think about is trying to keep your head upright. Soon after that you are grabbing desperately for the brakes. It feels like this much fun shouldn't be legal. You long forget about ricers and look for larger prey.
Some of you know this feeling, it's the first for me. My L28ET setup felt nothing like this. Had I done some of the bolt ons I've done on this engine to the L28ET I'm sure it would have been a real kick too. But ultimately I think I will be able to reach my goals with this engine with less money out of pocket.
Thank you for all of your good comments. I've worked on the car on and off over the past 3-4 years. In that time I've owned an `87 Supra Turbo that was pretty much stock, but very clean and was fun at ~10#'s boost. Very nice car, much more tame than the 240Z-7M. Working on and driving the Surpa with the 7M in it is what made me want this engine in my Z. I did go through a blow head gasket problem on the Supra at around 110K miles, but nothing to sweat over, and it's easy to make solid. I put a good amount of thought into picking an engine I considered the RB, 1JZ, and 2JZ. I actually ordered a 2JZ, but put the order on a Debit card that had a daily spending limit set on it that was less than the engine. That gave me time to think it over a little more, and I figured for the same price as a 2JZ I could have a 7M with the bolt ons that I wanted. The RB being the same case, while the 1JZ is a little difficult to find parts for, but would be my second choice based on its price and potential.
-
The stock intake manifold crosses over the top of the valve covers, I wanted a more clean intercooler piping setup. I started out with a Oxygen cylinder, cut it to size, mounted it onto a set of upper manifold runners from an old intake manifold. Welded a flange on to be able to accept a Mercedes V8 65MM throttle body. The OD is about 4 1/4". I opted to not go with volocity stacs simply because of the cost
Here is a picture of right after cutting the intake manifold and sizing up:
I had to lower the alternator a little bit, which was pretty easy. This meant putting on a smaller belt:
Here is my computer rendering I designed to help guide the project:
-
Some of you may know I've been working on this swap for some time. I had a bad case of "while I'm at it, I might as well..." For starters I've purchased a low mileaged JDM 7M-GTE long block that was in very nice condition. I expected to have a great deal more power with this engine and have done other supporting bolt ons to keep the car under control. The intentions of this car have been to keep it streetable with the ability to pull off a good 1/4 mile time.
Engine mods:
Blitz Stainless Steel Hand bent header (modified)
Super T70 Turbo, .70 A/R compressor housing, divided tangent T3 .84 A/R turbine housing and stage V turbine wheel. V-Band exhaust hook-up
HKS 40MM external Wastegate
TurboXS Type H Blow Off Valve
Front Mount Intercooler core dementions: 24"x12"x4"
MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires
Custom intake manifold w/65MM throttle body
3" SS mandrel exhaust system
2 1/2, and 3" SS mandrel bent intercooler piping
14" electric fan (1200cfm)
Fuel/Electronics:
Wolf3D V4.0 Engine Management System (fully programable, built in boost controler)
550cc/min Fuel Injectors
Walbro inline fuel pump (GSL-392)
-6AN fuel lines
Drivetrain:
Toyota R154 5 Speed Transmission
Toyota Racing Development Clutch Kit
3.54:1 R200 Differential
280ZX Turbo CV half shafts, 280Z stub axels, Modern Motorsport CV adapters
Custom drive shaft
Suspension/Brakes:
Tokico Springs
Tokico Struts
Urethain Bushing/Bump stops
MSA Front 1" and rear 7/8" sway bars
Stainless Steel Braided Brake lines
Toyota 4x4 4 piston front brake calipers
Brembo 11.4" rear solid rotor disk brakes, 240SX calipers, Modern Motorsports brakets
KVR brake pads
The car is running very strong right now, but does need to get dyno tuned. That will be happening later this year along with a metal head gasket, ARP head bolts.
Thank you everyone who has provided me with your insight expecially Clifton, Ross Corrigan of Modern Motorsports, Pete Sanders, and of course my girl Kim
Many local companies that have helped out in services include:
http://www.dnaparts.com/ Delaney and Ahlf Diesel Services for my TIG welding, T-bolt clamps and silicone hoses.
http://www.bobsmuffler.com/ Bob's Muffler: SS mandrel bending
http://www.amstreetrod.com/ American Street rod: many of those hard to find Earl's hose fittings
Pro Shaft of Bakersfield: made my custom drive shaft in one day, very high quality
Engine Pros, Inc: machine work, can prepare surfaces for multi layer head gaskets
http://www.taprecycling.com/ Toyota and Lexus Recycling, Inc. For a good 5 speed tranny and flywheel.
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ Modern Motorsports for my CV adapters, and rear disk brake kit.
-
I've also used engine paint with good results.
This picture was taken about 4 years ago when I painted them.
And here is how they look today:
No cracking or pealing.
-
I've built both L28ET and 7M-GTE 240Z's and the L28ET project was finished much much quicker, and for much less money/greef. With some very minor bolt ons it was enough power to make driving the car a ton of fun.
I like that you can still purchase a JDM 7M-GTE, but L28ET's are too old to find with only ~40K miles. Many people have just dropped a junk yard L28ET in after checking for good compression and didn't even sweat the mileage. Ultimately you'll be wanting to pull the head on your L28ET to freshen things up just as you would with the 7M, and a metal head gasket with good fasteners is recommended for any high boost application.
I agree with Sparks280zt about if you want to make up to 350hp then the l28et would do the job, but if you want to make more you will probably save money in the long run with the 7M.
I haven't officially anounced it, but my 7m-gte project is under boost now. It's a real neck jerker when boost roles in. My turbine housing may be a bit large because the hammer doesn't come down until about 3600 rpm. I'll be posting some pictures soon, later on this summer I'll have it dynoed.
-
Here is how I painted my wheels for my old `73 240Z Turbo. I polished the outer lip and the caps, then painted the spokes gun metal gray
-
If it were the tps you wouldn't be able to rev it while parked either.
I had a similar problem after a long swap, ended up being fuel delivery problem due to the gas gunking up from sitting so long. Fuel presure guage verified the problem.
-
Very nice swap!
I'm exactly where you are right now with my 7M swap. I had the car down for 3 years, and am now able to drive it around with no boost. Expect to have intercooler piping within a week and will post more info up at that time.
Congrats on getting to this point. Hope to see a full detailed list of your mods.
-
7M-GTE !!
Think the engine looks any better with a custom intake manifold? BTW, my 7M powered `72 240Z is running.
-
I found a local shop in my area that does mandrel bending. They were able to get the exhaust up much higher than I would have ever been able to do. They were able to shape it perfectly to get up along the tunnel real snug, and the picture angle doesn't do it justice. I think I have better clearance now than I had with the MSA 2 1/2" system.
I'll post more pics of the car when I finish up the engine. I've been driving the 7M-GTE powered car without turbo hooked up for about 100 miles now. It's given me a good oportunity to make sure everything is sealed up and I wired correctly.
BTW, I'm running Tokico struts/lower springs and I haven't rubbed yet. I used to rub with the MSA kit lightly sometimes. If you have the money it's definately worth having a shop that can put those important bends in to get that clearance.
The shop I took my car to is Bob's Muffler http://www.bobsmuffler.com/ The guys liked the car a lot. They can bend up to 4" pipe and I believe they make some kits that are shipped out all over the states. Located here in downtown Bakersfield, CA
They can not bend aluminum pipe because they push a brass slug through while bending. The brass and aluminum would stick together too much. I plan on having them do my intercooler piping as soon as I have it mounted. I've been waiting on my silicone hoses from a guy named aileronone on ebay. He is very difficult and slow to deal with. The price seemed well worth it, but not worth the trouble.
-
I just had mine done, so thought I'd add it in here as well. This is a mandrel bent system, all stainless with the same magnaflow muffler on my 7M-GTE. It's actually not all that loud, it's not a racy sound, kind of just low and rummbly.
Will post more pics of the engine swap as soon as I finish up some more things.
-
Wow!!! That is awesome. Very happy for you, was this with higher octain this time?
Looks like your site is down, can't wait to see the dyno chart.
I'd be great to see it in action, maybe you could put together a video some time?
painting a car with a roller...
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I picked up a can of glossy white and mineral spirits mixed some up and sprayed an access door with my HVLP spray gun. I did a couple layers, wet sanded, and waxed.
I'm happy so far. I want to do my whole Maroon 240z now, but it needs a lot of prep work done. I guess I need to find a good deal on some sand paper, and power sander/polisher and get to work in the garage.
Here's the car that needs paint:
I just swapped on over a set of slotted mag rims and it looks nice now. As you can see the clear coat pealed off of the top surfaces, and it was a cheap paint job anyways. Time for an even cheaper paint job