Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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My orange car still has it's 2.4L bottom end. I tried turboing with the E88 head, but couldn't run very much boost. Have to replace the rings now because of some of the damage done in doing that. Also the E88 doesn't have EFI manifold mounting holes, but there is an E88 off of a maxima that does.
Now the car runs with a P90 head, turbo head bolts, turbo oil pump, L28 head gasket. Also bolted on a t3/t4 turbo (water cooled), modified starion FMIC. I'm running 370cc/min injectors with an `83 280zx turbo efi system, runs a bit rich..
Just busted my stock auto tranny, and have another one ready to drop in. It makes enough power to push you back in your seat well.. Ultimately the turbo pistons are the better choice because of how the rings are possitioned. The little L24 revs damn fast now, the 65mm throttle body helped that out quite a bit I think. After I get the new tranny in I'll have to get a 1/4 mile time for you. I'd be happy with mid to high 13's with 15psi.
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I've heard of some places using over sized bushings on a machined down shaft. Probably not cheap to have done. Take it apart and have a look at the shaft and how much it's warn. You may be able to throw a new set of bushings and seals in and have it run for another 20k miles, who knows.
If the wheels have hit the housings then don't bother trying to rebuilt.
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Not in bay area, probably 300 miles or so south of you, but I would be willing to help you out if there were any chance the car could visit me
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Well, drove the car around. Car drove pretty okay, but really lacked the power that I thought the car would have. I've driven another one around before with the stiffer suspention, I prefer the softer setup.
There were a lot of little flaws that really bugged me, and I just had to turn it down.
I really like the rx7, only think I could be happy if it had more go though. The thought of busting an apex seal is a lot of stress to handle though.
The 7m-gte should make power much easier with a LOT more low end power. I've got to remount the engine, it's too low. I wonder if I can use the frame rails for mounting the engine, that way I could install an A/C compressor on the engine, which is something I was looking for. Also car needs better brakes, rear disks would probably help. I'm afraid of breaking the rear end, and tweaking the frame with the power, but I guess I'll just take it slow until I get a roll cage built in. Also my tires in the back aren't very wide, but I guess with money anything can be done, and hopefully I can fit a 3" pipe under the car.
Anyone know how much it would cost me to have the 3mm apex seal job done? The whole maching of the rotor, and a minor port job? That would probably make me happier about one of the cars.
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Yeah, as far as bolt ons.. I was thinking exhaust and intercooler/intake as being the first things.
I've seen some people mount front mounts with the stock air dam, but have heard it's not easy. Is it just far easier to go with a different air dam if you're wanting to use a FMIC?
Also, this car has an automatic transmission. Are they fairly strong trannies? Stronger than the rear end that seems to only be able to take about 350hp or so?
What are some of the first things to do to fight the over heating issues? And is there a sure way to tell if the water jacket O-ring needs to be replaced?
Car appears to be stock, it's the touring car with the Boss stereo system, and sun roof, also has mud flaps, but no wing, no strut braces, and I believe it has the softer suspention.
Maybe over the span of this year it will have a single turbo setup with my Wolf3D stand alone EMS.. Which means I'll be selling off my silver 240 for this car, but I've been wanting a 3rd gen rx7 for a while, so it's worth it to me.
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Just wondering if any of you guys were rx7 peoples. I'm thinking about getting an `93 with 68K miles. Car seems pretty solid.
Would like to know what the best bang for the buck is.
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Think I'm going with a 280zx NA tranny with a 6 month warranty.. May do do it right some other time, but I want to be done by wednesday.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
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I don't think the inhibitor switch is part of the engine wiring harness, but more so the chassis harness. If you have the wires in question then just put them together to complete the curcuit..
Starter stuff shouldn't be any different than what you had before.. Auto or manual trannies should have the same harness.
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Thanks..
Are the drive lines different between the 280zx na and turbo? I don't have the time or money to make a custom drive shaft.
I thought the 280zx's had an over drive. 1:1 does sound like a final gear, but is there a higher over drive above that?
I'm pretty sure the maxima has over drive. I'm looking for good highway mileage with good low gears. The gears in my old 3 speed nicely spaced, but third gear wasn't good for crusing above 65mph.
I know the 5 speed would probably fix this problem, but I'm keeping cheap and don't want to buy a new clutch kit and resurface a flywheel. Also, not sure if a standard clutch would hold the power.
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My orange turbo 240z broke the 3 speed auto that it had in it while driving hard. There are some metal peices in the pan, and there is a metalic rubbing sound when in gear.
Just got done pulling the tranny, got dark before I could grab the converter. Anyways, earlier today went shopping for an auto tranny out of a 280ZX because I'd like to have over drive.
Do the Maximas that have the L6 bolt into z cars, and use the same drive line spline setup? Any difference between the 280zx tranny and the maxima tranny? I saw a diseil maxima, any difference in that tranny?
Most of the trannies in the junk yard have like 200K miles on them, should I not even consider one of them? I was thinking the maximas probably weren't driven as hard as the z's.
Also, does the 280zx turbo tranny use the same type of drive line, and bolt up the same way? I thought maybe it had a larger drive line, kinda like the borg warner t5 tranny, but may be wrong. Is the turbo tranny stronger than the non?
Anyone know where the are posted gear ratios on these things? Perhaps James T knows about these guys.
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Need to finish my 7m-gte dealie.. Other wise I'll bring the orange car with the L24ET.. Kinda a native engine with bolt ons though, so donno if I could hang with the hybrid dudes in the car.
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This might be a fun thing to read:
http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/stories/sidewinder/page1.html
The inline 6 would probably fit well in a z car
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Yeah, I put a bycicle lock on my intercooler when I park it
Hope to have an air dam soon.
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I never got it right..
Man, my car is screaming for a paint job, and an intercooler alignment... I opted to weld a bead around the inlet/outlet pipes. The hose with cloth in it seems to do a lot better at not slipping, although I have this one 3-2 1/2" reducer at the throttle body that is pretty heavy duty rubber that seems to stay well with a set of T bolt clamps, and no bead. Nothing near 25psi, but it has seen 15, and the ocational - Ooops a vacuum hose must have come off 20 or so psi.. Will definately be replacing my bottom end because of those times, oh well get to go bigger this time.
Lemme know if someone in my area is looking to rid of a L28 bottom end, I've got a set of turbo pistons to drop pop in.
Best of luck getting things aligned better than me, give me some advice after you get it right
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I bolted a t04b compressor to a stock 280zx turbo turbine housing. The 300zx housing is just the same, so no upgrade there.
Donno my power output, and I'm only 2.4L's. Would be better off getting an upgrade turbine setup.
Look around on ebay, I see some pretty good deals on t3/t4's sometimes..
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Would be interested in more details such as condition of the hybrid setup and the a/r's, trim, and if the t3 turbine is clipped or upgraded. Water cooled?
Would love to see pictures of the big one, always like to drool.
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Here is one way that works as long as you have a little bit of gas in the tank:
Drill and tap the drain plug for a 1/4" NPT
You can drop a 75 280z tank in, or feed a small tank that won't get bubbles in it with a low presure pump, then off of that use your high presure pump to feed the engine.
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After giving the advice I think I deserve a little advertisement space here. If I'm wrong to do so please flame me
Here's my very nice 280zx turbo air flow meter for sale one ebay:
And I also have a 280zx turbo computer up for sale as well. Tested, so there is no doubts:
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A lot of these answers have been answered in previous threads, so do some searches. Although I'll try and give you some quick responses.
The engine fits with no complications. A different down pipe is required to hook the exhaust up to the back of the turbo.
You can bolt your manual tranny over to the engine that originally had an auto tranny, just swap the flywheel over to the engine, and bolt everything else up. Pretty easy, swapping trannies with L series engines is generally pretty easy except for a few exceptional trannies, ie the Borg Warner T5 tranny that comes in the 280zx turbo is a bit different, but still can be swapped with some work.
The stock 280z clutch may not be strong enough to hold the added power for a long time, so an upgrade might be something to consider, although you could get away running the stock one for a while if it was in good condition.
If you are swapping into a 280z the stock fuel pump should be able to deal with stock boost, and should have no problem dealing with up to around 9psi or so at which point you need an intercooler.
If you plan on using the stock 280zxT EFI system then get as much as you can. Get the distributor, complete EFI harness, AFM, o2 sensor, head temp sensor, ECU, coil igniter (mounted on coil holder) throttle possition sensor, and optionally the idle control system components. The relays are not important to making the system work, but if you are comfortable with using relays then it might make you feel better that you have them. You do not need to have the EFI system control the fuel pump, you can wire it up to come on when the ignition is on. This will make wiring a little less complicated, and when you decide to upgrade to a different pump you will have less issues.
There are many limitations that come along with the stock efi system, and if you have the money to jump into a stand alone engine management system then this will rid of a lot of head aches in the long run. A lot of us are running on the stock 280zxt EFI and can make over 250hp to the wheels with larger injectors, intercooler, larger fuel pump. When running larger injectors on the stock efi system the car will run pig rich at idle and medium load. This causes bad gas mileage, and a raw fuel smell which is no fun.
If you intend to stick with the stock injectors and run 9psi or less boost then there is no reason for you to go with the stand alone engine management system. This would put you into the low 14's in the 1/4 mile.
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Ack, why the supra owner bashing?
I agree with the rest, the big T series are probably not the way to go with the L6. I think the weight of the supras also help keep them under a lot more load to get that air flowing for those big turbos.
I don't know much about the new t3 turbine setups, but I don't think you could go wrong with a t4 P trim, low a/r and then put one of the largest compressors you can bolt on for the small shaft setup. Going to big shaft probably will only make more time to spool, and unless you get a BB setup it could be a big pain.
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hope to see pics of the gasket after you pull it out.
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Try that out, if it doesn't work you can rebuild it yourself with a kit. The kits are selling on ebay now for pretty cheap, like $40 or so. It doesn't take any special tools, but somtimes the bolts in the turbine housing are a little stiff.
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Had a friend with a vr6 VW, not sure of the model, but it was a 2 door. Anyways, I was racing him with my `72 240z with stock L24/SU carbs and it seemed like he had a lot more top end than I did. Like if we punched it going around 45mph he would pull away from me, but from a light I could pull a couple cars on him and he would gain it back a little, but by the time we did the 1/4 mile I was still ahead.
With a L28 in the little 240 I would probably be able to pull on him at any time if the engine was able to breathe real well. With the added weight of the 280zx body it might be similar to how I ran with my l24 in the 240..
Race'm and let us know.
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The igntion trigger is built onto the 280zx turbo's coil mount, which NEEDS TO BE GROUNDED for it to work. It does not pull ground through a wire, it pulls it through chassis.
Can use one out of a 300zx, but it wires up slightly different, same idea though. I think it actually has a wire for ground.
Boost/Vaccum Gauge
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Also a very warn engine will show less vacuum. My engine used to suck at 20Hg, and now it's only like 12Hg with a less than stable idle at around 700rpm or so.
I've got new rings in hand. Hopefully the pistons aren't bad now