Tony240ZT
-
Posts
559 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony240ZT
-
-
I love her toys
I have the 3rd generation supra, the first gen to have it's own body style (not sharing parts from the Celica), and first to have factory turbo (7M-GTE). I'd say it's the heavy one 3650+ pounder.
Would love to have the MKIV supra, but my supra doesn't bring much attention by cops and ricers and such. It's almost like having a 2 door Camery, with no one knowing what's under the hood. The silver Z draws a bunch of attention, and has gotten keyed because of it. Lots of ricers rev on me and such. I don't even have the 4 foot wing, or sticker
-
IMO it's not worth doing the lifter swap unless you have a lot machine work already dumped into the P90A head.
Anyways, a properly working P90A head can be a good thing. Cleaning them up with diesel will sometimes help. Could always pull a spare set out of a junk yard for insurance, and maybe some of those would be good.
-
Ever notice how the stock AFM door gets slammed closed hard if there is no BOV? Man, that's anoying.
I've seen the BOV's installed on both sides of the intercooler. I'm not sure which side is best. Probably have seen more installed on the cool side, where the air is more compact.
-
Boy, my ears are ringing
I picked up my tranny for $200 + shipping, then had to get a clutch and resurface the flywheel.
My JDM engine didn't come with accesories, but came with injectors, manifolds and turbo for about the same price. Replace the timing belt, as the engine has been sitting for a long time (10+ years).
The stock supra EMS is pretty limiting, and is expencive to buy piggy back systems for it. I went for a stand alone system from down under called Wolf3D. There are links to many of these places that I've used on my web page.
I would compare the swap as being about the same difficulty as sticking any turbo charged fuel injected engine in that you have to fab up the mounts and driveline for (ie any RB engine or the 2JZ engine). Probably a bit more expencive than your regular fuel injected v8 setup.
I think there is more room in the 240Z/280Z to go back with the engine. Take a look at some engine pics and I think you will see. This may mean that you have to go up a little further with the shifter.
-
I'm pretty sure it gets warm where you're at. An A/C system seems like it would be nice. A good quality muffler, and good door seals to keep sound down. Maybe adjustable shocks (but I don't have personal experience with them).
A leather wrapped steering wheel would be nice. Make sure the car seals up well, so that none of those fumes get in. Like replacing the seals around the rear lights, and tank eveporation lines.
-
Here's the deal, my significant other is cool with me putting money into the cars. She would rather I just have a large amount of power in a heavier car than the Z car for safty reasons. Also, She really likes the comforts of the Supra, which is roomy, quiet, and has a smooth ride. Quite the oposite of the light 240z with tokico suspention, and very little sound dampening material.
I've got this engine management system, 7M-GTE engine with header/t4 turbo/larger injectors, HKS FMIC, 5 speed tranny with TRD clutch in the Z car right now. Still no exhaust system, and no drive line made up, basicly just mounts. The engine would slip right into the Supra, obviously.
I'd like to keep a fast car in the family, and since the Z car doesn't sit more than 2 I'm afraid I might have to loose it as soon as I have kids. The supra on the other hand sits 4. Also, the surpa already has room for larger tires, has a strong LSD diff in it, already has good sized disk brakes all around, has ABS, PS, A/C, etc.
Do I stick the low mileage 7m-gte into the supra or finish it off in the Z and risk loosing my setup after a baby comes into the family. Keep in mind the woman might be more supportive about more mods if she likes the car as well.
If I let the Z car go maybe one of you would like the engine that is currently in the supra (has 115K miles with new head gasket), to finish up the project.
- OR - -
It'll still be damn loud, just a different loud. Kinda like a jet taking off with a low rummble. Add a loud BOV ontop of that and you'll be getting more attention than now.
-
Welcome!
It's a custom job unfortunately. Very nice work, I've seen the car in person and love the styling as well.
-
Drop that PT Cruiser turbo setup in there..
-
Time to do a drive train swap into a 240Z
-
Pretty looking core.
I was wondering the same thing about keeping close to the 450ft/sec. He just says not to use larger tubes than you need, "little drag is created in smooth tubes with gentle bends. Larger tubes will only add to the volume of the IC system, and that is not a good thing to do."
Stuff we already knew, but ya I wish there was a number that would be great to try and stick to.
ASFAK same would apply for any amount of turbos, it's the acculated velocity that counts.
Anyone have any personal experience with high horse power setups? My little L6 making sub 300 numbers would probably be happy with 2"
-
If I could ever get my car on a lift I'd do it. I love the way the LSD diff in my `87 Supra Turbo feels in the turns.
How do you shorten the half shafts? Sounds like it could be pretty expencive to do. I have the R200 CV adapters welded up and ready to go in the car I'm sure a similar adapter with a different bolt pattern could make it an easy bolt up.
-
Will the injectors sit perpendicular with the runner, or will you be angling them a bit? A good slant is the way to go, right?
-
WOW, 80mm! My 1jz-gte HKS intercooler only has like 2 1/4" inlet/outlets on it..
I was just looking through that book, "How to build your sohc nissan/datsun engine" and the 280zx turbo race cars had small diameter intercooler piping, I'd say 2 1/2..
Found the intercooler piping section in the Maximum Boost pages 61-62.. Says here that "I suspect this number (the airflow velocity in the tube that should not be exceeded) is around Mach .4, or about 450 feet per second, since drag, and therefore flow loss, increases significantly after this."
Scottie may have made one of these excell spread sheets before, but I thought it'd be easy enough to make one of my own.
Click here for the Excell xls file to calculate the numbers.
If you want 550 to the wheels I think that's like 660 at the crank with the 3.149" pipe (80mm) that's only 305 ft/sec, 336ft/sec with 3", 484ft/sec with 2.5" which is over the 450ft/sec number.
-
The oil cooler on the 2nd gen is very large. The 3rd gen may be as well, but haven't seen one. Anyways, if you have the time/money to hook one up it would probably be a good investment. I think the fittings are very commen ones.
-
There's a local guy that ran one of these on his L6. The carb is very adaptable, but is a pretty large box.
Now he's running it on the v8 in his Z, he swears its dah sh*t.
I think he's always tweaking with it more than running with it though.
-
Ah, now I see how you're going to fit those twins under there.
I bet that will hide the injectors from site making it look pretty clean under the hood.
Looks like those ports are pretty well stretched. Gotta be lots of fun.
-
WOW, very pretty! Can't wait to see the rest of the car done in that color. How is the body work doing and how long before you start painting everything else?
In some cases like this:
The battery must be moved! As you can see the turbo down pipe would likely be touching the battery.
Anyways, moving the battery to the back can often help your weight distribution. I've added a few pounds to the front of the car, so the battery move will help a little. I only have a turbo inline sixer, so I think the v8 is heavier. My car lowered about a 1/2" in the front after having the new engine in, and I have the engine as far back as it will go (behind the front sway bar even.)
-
ScottyMIZ has adapted the 280z efi system over to his Mazda B2000 pickup truck, so I'm sure he could probably help you out as far as wiring.
You may even want to consider a 300ZX Z31 NA efi setup for your swap, but I'm not completely sure how well the system would deal with the lower displacement. The advantages would be ridding of the door type AFM to heated wire MAF, as well as more advanced computer, and even better gas mileage. The sensors required are simliar to that of the 280z efi swap with the difference being that you need the MAF, a `82-`83 280zx turbo distributor, and the coil igniter found in either the 280zxt, or 300zx.. Use the harness out of the 300zx as well as all sensor.
I'm running a 280zx turbo efi setup on my l24 with a P90 head, larger injectors, and a t3/t4 turbo. If you decide to go turbo and you get your hands on a 280zxt harness/computer then let me know, as I can help with the details.
Even if you don't go turbo you will enjoy the ease of efi, and fuel econemy. Get your hands on a Haynes manual for the model of car that you will be adapting the efi system from, the wiring diagrams definately help.
-
I've had a R200 in my car before, but took it out because it was pushing the drive shaft really hard into the tranny, and it melted the rear tranny seal..
I think my problem was that I didn't have the correct front diff mount.. I can't remember what I used, but I think I remember ordering a new R200 front mount for the car, was I suppose to stick with the R180 mount for my car..
This was in my `72 which isn't like the series I cars. It apears identical to my `73.
Thank you for clearifying the spline difference between 280/240. I have the CV adapters welded on the 280 hardware, so I guess I'll be in search for a mate.
Ross, I will definately be doing the 240sx rear disk setup in the near future. Thank you again for putting together the goodies for us z peeps..
-
Hey there, just saw this post since I'm painting my orange car, and thought I'd go through some of this old stuff.. That car looks very familiar
Kinda looks like the one in my garage!
I like the big phat tires stuck under there, may have to do that some day to get the power of the 7m-gte under control.
-
I have a 65mm throttle body and went with 2.5" pipes. I just have a 3 to 2.5 adapter right there. For as much power as I'm making 2 1/4 would probably be better suited, but it works well enough for me as is.
3" would just give you problems, more expencive, heavier, more lag, less space to work with.
-
I post to supras.com as well, I own an `87 supra turbo as well as the z cars. The supra is mostly stock, but comfy (heavy!).
I'm running the engine with a Wolf3D system, fully programable ignition/fuel. I was able to use my stock cam possition sensor with only small mods. Currently stock internals, 550cc/min injectors, hefty fuel pump, HKS front mount intercooler from a 1jz-gte MA70 supra, TRD clutch kit. Will go with a MHG and ARP studs ASAP.
I'm putting a LSD R200 in the back, and I have the CV adapters from modern motorsports to hold things together back there.
I would love to know how it runs when you get to that point. Hopefully I'll be on the road before the end of March.
-
This is the header on my 7M, not the best angle, but it is SS and not exactly equal length. Yours looks very nice, I like the one you made much better. Anyways, mine is used, and has survived well. Hopefully it has many miles left in it.
I want to make an intake manifold like the one you have. I see that your alternator is moved down a bit. Was this to get the throttle body pointed in a better angle?
Know where I could get a good deal on MKIV coil packs?
What size of turbo did you go with? I'm looking for a .68 a/r turbine housing for my P trim t4.. has a t04b compressor on it, but will upgrade when I can.
Would be interested in other specs on your engine.
- OR - 
What is the loudest BOV on the market?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
If you didn't know, the Turbo XS type H is adjustable with washers. If you didn't get them with your bov then I can get the size for you. Anyways, all you do is drop another washer to set the preload a little stronger and that may fix some issues.