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Tony240ZT

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Posts posted by Tony240ZT

  1. I think you'd rather wait for mine to be out there. I should have it up by wednesday. It's my orange `73 with L28-ET, T3/T4 turbo, FMIC, painted earlier this year, interior all nice too.

     

    orangecarside.jpg

     

    orangecarfront.jpg

     

    I'll have more pictures of it soon, and hopefully I can borrow a better camera.

     

    Basicly a clean stock looking 240Z with the engine transplant.

     

    enginepic.jpg

     

    Anyone else like the way these wheels turned out as much as I do?

     

    orangecarwheel.jpg

  2. I just put a few things up in the classifies, they are directed at you Turbo people. Last time I had these throttle bodies you guys were fighting over them, so thought I should post here that I have two 65mm throttle bodies off of Mercedes V8's. If you are unfamiliar with them do a search for the topic.

     

    I have one of these throttle bodies mounted on my car:

     

    tbmounted.jpg

     

    Link to ad:

    http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=65&de=793

     

    While I took a pic of the TB on my car I did an engine pic, haven't done one in a while:

     

    enginepic.jpg

     

    I am selling this car with the L28-ET very soon. It's a great car, but I need the money for the 7M-GTE project car.

     

    When I swapped out the L24-ET and put in the L28-ET I couldn't use my old oil adapter plate, so I have it up for sale. It has a T off of it to run an oil line to the turbo.

     

    Here is what the oil plate adapter looks like with a filter stuck on:

     

    oilawfilter.jpg

     

    You can see more pics under the classified:

     

    http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=65&de=794

     

    Here is a photo of the new oil adapter on the L28-ET, these were on automatic equiped 280ZX's I believe.. Perhaps only certain years?

     

    autotransadapter.jpg

     

    I re-used my oil lines so they were a little tight after getting a little cut, but turned out well.

     

    Also, I have a bare L28-ET block sitting in the garage. It has had the rough casting removed from the inside. It's prepped like "How to build your Nissan OHC engine" book tells you how. I had hoped to make a stroker engine out of it, but went with the 7M-GTE instead. At this point anyone is welcome to come pick it up for free.

     

    I have a front bumper off of a `73 240Z that I need to clear out too, and a couple sets of SU's in the garage.. Noticing these are turbo parts I'll stop there. However, I have been known to make SU's into something turbo related:

     

    enginecompart.jpg

     

    Yes, this is what the orange car's engine compartment used to look like with a draw through turbo setup on a L24.. I could not get enough gas into this thing, and it would ping.. Caused the engine rings to get unhappy, that's why the L28-ET is now in the engine with fuel injection. The added fuel, intercooler, and t3/t4 turbo have helped the car get down the road faster now.

  3. I'm hooking mine up and want to make sure I have this about right. I have an external wastegate. And from looking at documents I've seen online like this one:

     

    10.jpg

     

    Of a Greddy Profec hookup I think mine will be similar with my Wolf3D. The Wolf3D already has a vacuum line dedicated to the manifold for engine management and controls the vacuum switch based on that.

     

    Here is my picture, I removed as much as possible to make it clear to myself what needed to be done. Does this look correct?

     

    wg.jpg

     

    I also wanted to do this to help others see it more clearly, as I've done some searches and haven't found much info.

  4. It's hard to tell, is that built off of a Z engine mount?

     

    Was your 12.8@117 time with your CT-26? If so have you run the 1/4 mile with your new turbo? Are you able to turn up the boost more now? The new turbo looks so nice looking..

     

    I think next summer I'll work on installing A/C, possibly go with smaller compressor and will need to make up my own mounts.

  5. I found a very inspiring web site. It is purely MKIII supra's only and they plan to stay that way, but otherwise the site has some very nicely done cars with good descriptions.

     

    http://www.7mpower.com/members.shtml

     

    All of the cars have over 400rwhp, all but one have bolted on a different brand turbo.. It's interesting to see how the dyno charts look for each turbo on the same engine. What is so inspiring to me is not the fact that one guy is making 730rwhp with his 7M-GTE, it's that many of these ~450hp guys are making the power on stock internals (with exception to ARP head studs, and MHG)

     

    I found 3 guys with similar intake manifolds to what I'm interested in making for myself. One of them looks like they made the intake manifold out of an old oxegyn tank.

     

    glenn_groseclos_04.jpg

     

    Could that have once been setup like this?:

     

    f9_1_b.JPG

     

    Was thinking of going over to a shop that sells these things locally and seeing if they had any tanks that were out of date, because the funnel part meeting the TB would be so clean looking in compared to something someone made for example:

     

    adam_hintgen_04.jpg

     

    Notice these guys are running stock 60mm throttle bodies.. I found that interesting, ScottyGNZ also was making lots of power with a small throttle body. So, I'm really getting the point now that it's not a necessary thing. However, I have a 65mm tb I'm going to use because it's just more simple in design, and here are the rest of the parts that will some day become my intake manifold:

     

    MVC-087F.JPG

     

    This is a NA intake manifold that I will be chopping up.. I will lower my alternator with a little arm extending from the top mount to clear the throttle body. This guy has a very nice aluminum one on his car:

     

    ron_ramirez_03.jpg

     

    You have to look left of the TB to see what I'm talking about. Right above it is a very small support for the intake manifold that is bolted to where the engine lift hooks were.

     

    I'll update with more pics as more is done.. It may be a while before anything is accomplished because I have to wait for the L28-ET Orange 240Z to sell..

  6. transmount.jpg

     

    Here is the tranny mount. The base of it is based of a MKII Supra tranny mount.. There is a bit of reinforcement on the inside of the tunnel. I don't like that very much, but it leaves a lot more room for exhaust, and I was in a hurry when I dropped the motor in to return the engine hoist.

     

    I just put in my R200, it's just an open one for now, mounted on urethain bushings. I'm installing Modern Motor Sport's 280ZX CV conversion kit. I'm just waiting on some 280Z outer spindles and new bearings. After I get those bolted in I can take over my two drive shafts and have them re-tubed to the length needed and I'll have the ends rebuilt at the same time.

     

    While I have the rear suspention off I would like to convert to disk brakes, if anyone has parts to help me do this let me know. I may go with the Modern Motor Sport kit that uses nissan parts.

     

    I like where the stock shifter comes out. My shifter is from a MKIII supra, I'm not too tall at 5'8"

     

    About making mounts for others, I don't claim to be an engineer, and only hope things are lined up well enough to not give me problems. If it turns out great then maybe that would be something worth doing for others as it's a great engine for the price. I currently am using the mounting holes on the engine block that were intended for power steering pump and A/C compressor. Those that would want to use the A/C compressor would probably want to do something different. Clifton has A/C on his 7M powered 240Z, I'd be interested in how his driver's side mount looks.. The engine sits so differently in the Z than it did in the supra that the original mounts were some where near the tention rod bushings in the z. I guess something could have been built off of the frame rails and some how around the steering column.

     

    Anyways, would love to see more people doing this swap and would like to see new ideas. I'm open to redoing my setup if somebody finds a better way of doing things. I just noticed I need to remove the stock trans mounts because they are too close to the sides of the tranny. This tranny is quite a lot wider than the stock 4 speed.

  7. I like the Monza's a lot..

     

    http://www.Zhome.com has quite a lot of racing history on Z's. Check out the nose on this one labeled Macau 240Z

     

     

    macau240Z.JPG

     

    My favorite articles include the Electramotive Bob Sharp 280ZX Turbo. There are some photos of the engine on a dyno in "How to build your Nissan OHC engine" that are pretty neat. I would like to get more info on the engine of these cars, expecially the turbo models. It looks as though they tilt the engine a little bit, and have the cam running by a belt, also the cam sensor and sometimes distributor is sticking out the front of the cam, through the valve cover.

     

    Anyways, Carl Beck has helped a lot in keeping our Z history together in one place. I have a lot of respect for him.

  8. Will be selling my orange car this month to get the money to complete the job. I'm hoping to be done by the end of this month, or early next. I've had the engine running in the engine compartment before, without a drive line, so at least I have the wires in the right place, it'll just be a matter of tuning once I have all the parts together.

     

    My orange car has received new paint (prowler orange), a low mileage L28-ET, it has a T04B/T3 turbo, 65mm throttle body, Japanese no EGR intake manifold, oil cooler, front mount modified starion intercooler, electric fan, 4 core radiator, accel coil, fresh air K&N intake, and the inside looks pretty nice. The engine is bolted up to a 3 speed 280Z auto tranny that shifts very nicely. The car can run up to ~13psi without a problem. If you know anyone who would be interested pass the word around, it's a very nice california rust free `73 240Z. I would say that it could use some suspention work and some fresh brakes or perhaps I should say with the added power maybe these could use an upgrading, but as far as the engine and looks go, it's perfect.

     

     

    Snewpaint1.jpg

     

    (front air dam is now painted, and bumper is fixed)

    Sorangecar.jpg

     

    I'll be excepting offers over $5K. I just drove it up to Reno, NV from southern CA it was very exciting all the way, may have broken the speed limit a couple times :D

  9. Hey guys, it's been about 2 years since my car has been sitting in the garage with the supra motor, I've collected some dust. I didn't like the mounts I had made up, one side sagged a little and they weren't that strong looking, so I've redone them up, and I think these are better. My welder seems like it's bout ready to die so I tried my best by doing little tack welds on them..

     

    This one is the driver's side, I cut out the old mount support on the cross over, then mounted the supra rubber mount directly onto the cross member. Don't mind the dust I'm doing a little bit of body work on the engine compartment.

     

    driverside.jpg

     

    Passenger side is using the existing engine support mount

     

    passside1.jpg

    passside2.jpg

     

    Valve covers are aligned well with the hood latch support

     

    top.jpg

     

    The engine is as far back as it can possibly be, this is because the tranny seems short. This probably helps as far as weight transfer as well.

     

    clearance.jpg

     

    Tranny shifter comes out a little further foward than stock

    tranny.jpg

     

    Here are some goodies to bolt onto the car:

    tableofnew.jpg

     

    I am making up a custom intake manifold to have the throttle body coming out the front of the engine, this requires that I lower the alternator about an inch. I've seen someone do this before and it looks pretty easy. Well worth the shorter intercooler piping and less pick up of heat by keeping the intake piping away from the exhaust.

     

    For those of you who haven't seen the car before here is a photo of the engine mounted a couple years ago with the stock turbo and stock intake manifold. The engine is slouching to the passenger side in the photo, this is why I redid the mounts:

     

    wicfront2.jpg

     

    Next is to hook up the clutch, have the drive lines spliced together, do piping and finish up my intake manifold with larger throttle body. The engine is controled by a stand alone EFI system, the Wolf3D 4.0. There is a TRD clutch in there, Accel 500hp external fuel pump, 550cc/min injectors, and a full T04 turbo sits ontop of the SS header with 38mm wastegate. Would like to go with a T-66 turbo, but this smaller one will have to do right now, it will probably limit me to 350hp, but the T-66 should really open it up.

  10. Don't use the 240sx tps sensor, it is different than the 280z type.

     

    The 280z is more like a switch, lets the computer know when you are idling and when your are at full throttle.

     

    The 240sx one is linear resistance, not a switch type.

     

    You may need to adjust the throttle body a little more open to get a higher idle.

  11. I have been going through a similar problem, and have done much of the same in trying to get my car running. I've had it start to run great about two times on me after doing some work around the engine, but really for no good known reason. The car seems fine when not under high load at higher rpms. It's like I can use about half of my throttle pedal, and really seems like the car only has as much power as a stock L24 engine. When it's running correctly I have a hard time picking my head up off of the seat, and have traction problems.

     

    I know for a fact that my distributor is not in the best of shape, you turn it and it feels like something broke off into the bushings. The vibration of this alone could probably make the sensing go bad. The fact that it times out good at idle, and then under load it acts like the timing is way off kind of makes me suspect a problem, but it's hard to tell if the problem is timing or fuel related.

     

    Anyways, I feel your pain. I've been going through this stuff for some time, lots of people saying it sounds like the tps, but if it were only that easy then it would have been fixed so long ago.

     

    Keep us updated. If I get mine running well I'll let you know.

  12. That's funny that you mention breaking up under boost, and swapping plugs gets you going well for about a week. I have the same problem with my car. I wasn't sure what to think. I guess I should consider swapping out the junk yard coil.

     

    I thought it had more to do with my air/fuel mixture, but without adjusting anything my o2 sensor would read differently under boost and car would run not as well after a while. What it looks like is the car isn't using all of the fuel making it read rich under medium load, but if I leave my foot in it long enough it goes lean quick. Didn't look right to me.

     

    This makes it so that I can't rev under load as high. Engine doesn't come to speed as quickly, and my gas mileage isn't quite as good.

     

    Does this sound similar, or different to your problem?

     

    Sorry to side track from the subject, best of luck selling your parts. I can't believe how low your times are with such low boost, sounds like a very efficient set up. After you have the coils replaced will you be able to tune in more boost?

  13. I looked up a NA MKIII flow meter and yes it is the barn door type, but the turbo one definately is not. Here is a picture of my engine compartment:

     

    http://zhome.com/~aktar/ebay/supra/enginefront.jpg

     

    Here is the larger diameter lexus one that many people swap into their MKIII turbos to trick the car into not giving as much fuel pulse time so they can stick larger injectors in and run more boost:

     

    http://www.supracarparts.com/parts%20pics/DSCN3344c.jpg

     

     

    Here are details on the swap and a side by side photo of each (larger lexus, same interal but smaller MKIII Supra T afm):

     

     

    http://home.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/lexus/lexus1.htm

     

     

    Here is picture auction of non turbo afm:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908398857&category=33553&sspagename=WDVW

     

    obviously barn door, obviously different than the turbo one.

  14. The 7M uses a heated wire mass air flow sensor like the 300ZX does, not the door type that the 280Z/X's do. I believe the non turbo uses a single coil while the turbo has 3 coil packs. The older MKII supras used the door type, maybe confused the two? MKIII's are from `86-`92

     

    Comparing the 7M to the 2JZ the 2JZ is a better high reving engine, I think you can pull another 1K RPM out of them in stock form. The 2JZ has better head flow design, but price difference is quite a lot.

     

    My 7M-GTE engine swap is about complete after 2 years, just need to go and get a drive line made up, and some other odds and ends.. I had to put off the completion for some time due to finances, but I've just sold a car and am back at it.

  15. These Stone Mountain Standard wastegates are going pretty cheap on eBay, so I bought this 40mm one. Here is the auction:

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7908328773&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT

     

    I'm assuming it is one of those inbetween ones? I think the tial ones were about $50 more, I could use the money for a throttle body. Too bad I didn't see the post earlier I would have made an offer on that 38mm one J Taylor has.

  16. That linkage was a long piece of all thread, it had a little flex in it because it was so long. If I were to do it again I'd adapt some throttle linkage cable and mount it securely at both ends.

     

    I couldn't tell ya for sure how many pounds of boost you could run. Would just have to exeriment a bit. The turbo itself isn't much usefull above 13 pounds or so. I'm still running the engine I had with the old carb setup now with EFI, so I'm proof that you can play around with these things without totalling an engine (just listen closesly for knocks). I would suggest using an O2 sensor and an air/fuel ratio guage. It'll give you a heads up on if you're running lean.

     

    Start building a small intake manifold to join the SU 2 carbs, and also join the linkage. You may be able to make it with fiberglass (can you run gas over fiberglass?). Even a steel one would work just fine, if you have MIG welder. Then just mount that puppy infront of the turbo and use the Y pipe I made up. I think it would be much easier to mount a down draft carb though, lot more options too.

     

    Let me know what your zip is and I'll let you know how much shipping is.

  17. I still have this custom aluminum Y pipe.

     

    enginecompart.jpg

     

     

    frontmock.jpg

     

    sidemock.jpg

     

    It was MIG welded, the bends are like weld els and are smooth inside and out. Would be awesome polished! This is lined up for the stock T3 from a 280zx or 300zx (z31).

     

    I didn't have any problems cold starting the car even though I had the carb so much lower than the intake (would start after about 1 second of cranking). Boost levels that you can run very on octain, ignition timing, tempurature, exhaust, C/R, etc.. But it is definately a cheap way to bolt on a few more horse power.

     

    I'm willing to part with it now for $27 + shipping. It has a fine hair line crack, only surface. I would have loved to have had it TIG welded, but just didn't have the money at the time.

     

    All you have to do is mount a carb infront of the turbo's intake, you can make like a right angle and raise the carb. I'm using the rest of the parts, except for the SU intake manifold, so if you need it I can hook you up with that as well. I also have the SU carb, front pipe to mount it up, but I would suggest a larger carb.

  18. Sure enough there are 30, thanks for the info. I will look into the option of getting a set of the S15's shafts vs custom fabbed. Any ideas as to if the S15's shafts will bolt onto my 280zxt CV's? Probably a long shot, but maybe they can be adapted some how.

     

    Sounds easiest to get the `84+ R200 with the 12mm ring gear and such, I will have to look around to see what ratios are available.

     

    This job isn't a priority on my list, so probably won't get it finished until like this winter, but I will definately let you guys know how it's going, and I'm sure I'll need more guidence along the way.

     

    Oh, I didn't bid at all.. Just emailed the seller about it before and after the auction.

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