JeffGarcia77

Neeeeveer mind, just re-read your post.

Yeah, could have been the same guy/pilot. I think he was buying his body kit directly from the factory (Arizona). What are you going to do with your project? Keep it or sell it? Jeff

Wagz, Are you the guy I sold an R-200 to about two years ago, roughly? You're a pilot, right? I was wondering how the Velo Rossa was coming along. If I have the wrong guy, I apologize. Regardless, good luck with your non-Z endeavors. Jeff

Nick, thanks for the additional info. I rewired my 1977 for an internal regulator alternator, and I'm currently running a 280ZX (non-turbo), 60 amp (?) alt. I haven't added any electrical devices to my car, it's all stock, and I seem to get a much more consistent and somewhat stronger charge to my battery with the internal regulator alt. I might upgrade to one of those Iraqi heavy duty alts. before I install an electric radiator fan and Hella Hella-vision headlights, just to be safe. I was also thinking about replacing my side marker, brake, and tail light bulbs (incandescent) with LED "bulbs" (lamps). They save MONGO amps. Tony D, thanks for shedding new light on this topic. Speaking of new and better headlight harnesses, Black Dragon sells one for $30, with the larger-gauge wiring and additional relays. I'll probably "re-route power to the main deflector sheild" with one of those harnesses someday. Jeff

But if you're installing one of the above-mentioned alternators on a pre-'78 Z, do you have to re-wire for internal voltage regulation? Or do these alternators use external regulation? Thanks

I found not one, but two, Kia Sportages (both 1997) today in a 4X4 junkyard in my area. Between the two, I found a perfect pair of front door seals. The bastage wants $30 for the pair, though. Seems a little high, but I guess I'll buy them anyway, while I have the opportunity. But I just wanted to let others know, the upper corner (1997 Kia Sportage weatherstrip) where the door window meets the quarter window is slightly rounded. It's NOT a crisp, sharp angle like the Zcar weatherstrip. Granted, the Kia weatherstrip's curve in that area is a very short radius. One could cut it at an angle and join the two ends together with glue, just to get a stock look, or possibly a better seal. I'll see what's required when I pick them up on Monday and test fit them on my '77.

although you can also get a small blow torch and heat it, then scrape. its nearly as easy... Yes, but wouldn't that stink up the interior, like a hot mop roofing crew had been working in his car? And wouldn't the heat ruin the undercoating on the bottom of the car? I'm assuming his car is street driven. I would go with dry ice.

Jumpman, I believe you have to "freeze" the sound insulation/vibration damping crap with the dry ice, then whack it with a hammer while it is brittle. This action is supposed to free it from the metal. Hope this helps.

Thanks, guys! I think that's within my price range .

How much are junkyards asking for these (Kia, Maxima, Integra, etc.) used door seals? I realize it will vary, depending on the yard, from giving them away to charging "book" price. Thanks

Have you tried hiring "Men Who Stare at Drums"? Maybe they can make your drums just fall off. Seriously speaking, I had to cut mine off with a cutoff wheel (made a square cut, with the square being slightly larger than the hub). After pulling the major part of the drum off, I used a chisel to separate the flat part of the drum from the hub (seriously corroded together). I was able to make a homemade puller to get the first (driver's side) drum off. I applied a hell of a lot of force with the "puller", then beat on the edge of the drum from the back side. After a few very hard whacks, the drum and puller went flying clear across the two-car garage I was working in. Also, be careful with metal shards breaking off when you're beating metal with metal. Before you put your new or used drums on, wirebrush the surfaces thoroughly to remove rust, then apply a VERY thin (barely there) layer of anti-sieze compound. You don't want anti-sieze slinging out and getting on your drum friction surfaces. Good Luck!

Real life? Zs ARE real life. Good find there, Malus. Good research.

I was given a set of those when I bought a '75, back in 2001. I had the old tires removed from them and noticed that they were REALLY heavy! I decided I didn't want such a great rotating mass slowing my car down so I sold them to the metal buyer for scrap. But FYI, they are a very common wheel and probably aren't worth more than about $25 each. Plus, they're hard to clean. Just my attitude toward these wheels.

OK. I didn't realize the front Tokico 240Z springs were progressive. But hey, this could create a niche for a whole new product! Stock-type upper strut isolators with long studs, plus machined aluminum spacers! Tom, I hope this discussion helps you in solving your suspension puzzle and achieving your goals. Jeff

Thanks for the spring specs and the historical insight, John. I've often been baffled as to why there aren't more spring rate choices out there (in the "stock diameter" type springs). Some folks don't want to lower their Z more than about 1/2 inch, but yet they'd like to increase the spring rates into the 180-200 lb./in. range. Or even 140 fr., 165 rr. on a 280Z sounds good to me. Would those 240Z springs from Tokico work on my '77 280 (still has stock strut tubes and spring perches)? I like your idea about machining a spacer to fit on top of the strut-top isolator. I'm just not ready to give up my rubber isolators and the way they reduce NVH. I suppose the thickness of that spacer would be limited by the length of the mounting studs which go through the strut tower? Thanks