280z-racer

For anyone that has used a 98-02 F-body donor car, did you swap or attempt to swap the steering column? I have only found 2 people, 1 that attempted and gave up and 1 that was successful. The successful guy though has not logged on in like 3 years and was vague. Any help is appreciated. If a moderator feels the need to move the topic where it would get better answers please do so.

Thanks for the reply Richard. I ended up spending more on a donor car than i intended. Ended up with a '73 240z. The car has floors and the bad dog frame rails already. A lot was done on the exterior so basically starting with a nice clean slate. Reading over another similar build thread to what I am attempting, shows the GM column probably is a no go. I want to use the cluster from the WS6 so not sure yet how I will attempt the wiring yet. I will keep reading and reading. My budget is already blown, so trying to sell off as many of my old f-body parts as I can. This will definitely not be a quick project.

I have a 2002 Trans Am WS6 with an LS6 swap that recently met its end with a concrete barrier. I was looking at possibly getting another 280z since that was my first car ad I still love them. I also have a complete on3 turbo kit that I was planning on installing this summer. I live in Arkansas so a/c is a must. So far looks like Hoke was the only one that had mounts that cleared an OEM compressor. JCI has a kit for his a/c that will require custom lines. Is there any other mount kits that you use and OEM style F-body compressor? I was also thinking of completely gutting the Z and using as much of the wiring as possible from the WS6 since it is a complete well maintained car and isn't 40 plus years old Any thoughts on this? Has anyone used an F-body steering column in a Z? I have seen a few threads on the Saturn electric columns but have not looked too far into them.

i have a question for a friend that is board illiterate. Can the guts of the Z32 trans be swapped into an RB20 case? and how similar is the rb25 and rb20 trans?

no ideas huh? no one has kept A/C after a rewire?

I'm looking to pickup a painless harness for my 77 in hopes of getting rid of all the electrical gremlins. Mine has what looks like "factory" A/C that I was thinking of repairing. I know the 18 curcuit setup has provisions for A/C, but I'm not sure if I could run the factory hardware with this. I also looked at adding a vintage kit, but that seems kinda hopeless with the L28. Any ideas or experience is always welcomed.

curious what throttle bodies people are using that can incorporate the TPS and IAC?

i had to use the 240 setup on my centerforce clutch. seems to work ok.

the F body LT1 was rated as low as 275 horsepower. all have 2-bolt mains except Y which had 4. B and D body were iron heads, F and Y were aluminum. also watch out for the L99 variant from the B-body which is only a 4.3L.

thanks grumpy!! i thought they were straight up but after doing an LT1 i wanted to make sure.

hey grumpy, quick Q for you. on a 91 5.7 liter vin code K- is TDC #! cylinder with the dots on the sprockets straight up or pointing toward each other like on the LT1?

while i often dont use capitals or apostrophes when typing on the intrawebz, its usually for speed and the rest of the syntax and spelling are there at least. as for those that completely butcher the language i blame texting and instant messaging. you get lazy doing it and there is almost never anyone to correct it. people become comfortable with incorrect spelling and grammar and it is passed on. and the best excuse i hear to explain it is "its the internet, who really cares?"

the only ones i have experience with and access to are the old style snap-on, the newer snap-on modis, and gm tech2. i know these are well out of your price range but i have to say if you arent trying to reprogram anything the modis kicks ass!

well after going through the test procedures is the manual for wiring and components, i have found that i have no continuity through the air regulator and low voltage on the thermotime circuit. can either of these cause there to be no injector pulse? i checked for voltage at the #1 pin on the ecu connector for the ignition trigger and there is voltage there. other that im at a loss.

i got my 76 280 when i was 15 and im 28 now. it was my aunts car that her roommate stole and wrecked while drunk. it sat in a garage for many years. a cousin of mine yanked parts off of it and and uncle got around to doing the majority of the body work but never got it running. as i was getting closer to 16 and wanted a car i asked her if she would sell it to me. she told me if i got it running i could have it. i took some pics of the engine and went an compared them to complete ones in the junkyard. bought the necessary parts and spent a couple of weekends installing them. new battery, oil, and fresh gas and it fired on the 2nd try. fixed a few more things and made it my daily until i was 19. i needed something reliable so i kinda shelved it. worked on it here and there but never really got it going again due to other things in life. this last summer i gave it to my neighbor who will make a bracket racer out of it and i bought a 77 that is in much better condition that im building now.