Bigdeezs
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Posts posted by Bigdeezs
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I used one for low and 2 for hi.
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I used two cheap 30amp relays in parallel...no problems.
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and with the quickness too...
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quick google search: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00044697/k-G3377631?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CLnShNL537ACFQkaQgodnjyu3A
Looks like it has the lil nub that presses against the pinched section as you squeeze to keep it nice and tight/secure.
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So much win Dave, congrats on getting her running and driving. I need to see this beastie again, any plans to take it to any shows or to race legal any time soon?
this
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I used the McMaster-Carr 1120A331 weatherstrip and it worked perfect. Did two 45 degree cuts on the upper rear corner.
did you do a water test...seems that some people used that and it did not seal out water well...?
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ls2 vette pan is a better option and does not hang as low as the F-body pan. It is also baffled better to reduce oil starvation at the pickup.
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yeah..higher, but not sure how high. I use the car primarily on weekends in the canyons and just to go to car meets. I want to get on the track more and will be at Streets of Willow a few weeks. These spring rates were not bad for the 235/45/17 continentals I have but I think it needs to be considerably stiffened up with the amount of grip I'm getting from the 275/40/17 NT01s. I have almost 6" total travel and about 2.5" of compression travel.
If you look at his youtube vid in his sig ( the canyon one) he has massive spring travel. I think he wants them to be stiffer. Not exactly race conditions, but canyon carving (which can get pretty serious). The tires he has now outgrip his springs most likely.
yup and that video is pretty old...it was on the stock suspension and blown shocks
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the P030-0032 bilsteins on stock valving with shortened strut tubes, coil overs sleeves, 10" eibach coils 250#F 275#R and camber plates/shock tops made from these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-Universal-Fit-Adjustable-Camber-Plates-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-200SX-/140759525954?hash=item20c5ebea42&vxp=mtr
the car is noticeably under sprung with these tires through the corners...just madness
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I am...275/40/27 Nitto NT01s..I just got back from running it on Mulholland a few hours ago...just wow is all I can say
I just went out andc snapped a few...
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About 4 years after the swap and still goin strong
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just...badass
pickin up the mail from mom too? (Summit catalog) haha
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wow...same BS here in Socal
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let em jump..I love a good debate...I have had that discussion here as well
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http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=65
those with the $400 ($850 + shipping)axle option is what I bought...I have heard things about Ross (owner) being quite lazy in getting things out in the recent past(you might want to research HBZ). I got mine relatively quickly but that was prolly around 3 years ago so I dunno now. Yes you need two pairs of axles...actually just the axle ends (4) but theres only 2 per q45. They are normally bolted only to the diff but this swap will put them at the diff and the inner stub axle flange(the $450 piece from MMS).
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I have about a G in mine...but I custom mounted the diff, drilled my 280Z mustache bar and bought the diff and axle flanges at the junkyard on half off days. Its the axles and adapters that hit the wallet hard.
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I believe it, with those 275s on there. I went from a 185 to a 235 and almost immediately started spitting U-Joints. Went to the Q45 diff/MMS axles...been good even at the track cutting 1.6 60ft.
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heres his car with the 275-40-17s judge for yourself...
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Bigdeezs,
Use the broom stick or 2X4 that you use to prop your hatch open to prop your hood open. Did you think it was a coincindence that we have a hatch on both ends of our cars? Mr. K, in his infinite wisdom, knew that this day would come, so he put those little straps in the hatch area just to keep the broom stick from rolling around when you are canyon carving.
LOL
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I'd really like to either make some lower strength springs or somehow bend these to remove some tension...the whole reason I decided to deal with the weight of hinge/spring assembly was I like having a hood that just stays up when I open it. If/when I decide to pull the tension rods the latch and hinge assembly will likely go with em. With 4 aluminum pins to do the work and some foam on the bottom of the hood so it doesn't scratch the top of the car when set it up there.
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How do you like your hood
its ok...doesnt fit as well as the stocker but its not bad. I ended up with the framed hood instead of the pin on one so I bolted it up to the hinges like stock. I think the hood springs are too strong so its causing the hood to bow a lil in the center. I spose if I were to pin it on and get rid of the hinges I could get it to sit nicer. I always hear fiberglass takes alot more work to get it to fit right and I knew that going in.
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LOL
Out with the old, and in with the new.
in Other Projects
Posted
ahhhh damn!