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Bigdeezs

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Posts posted by Bigdeezs

  1. I got one on my V8 swapped Blazer from the CHP near Culver City along with a speeding ticket...got every extension possible, fought by trial by written declaration (lost) and then did a "trial de novo" (new trial)...showed up to court and CHP officer didn't... :D $800+ back in the bank on that one. :blink:

  2. I always dreamed about a LSX/T56 Cobra and I never see them (seen quite a few cobras or replicas etc) but they are pretty much always a carbed motor. I'm a follower not leader...we'll see how this build goes before making any rash decisions B) but damn am I interested! :D ...if you don't make a build thread here please leave a link to one from somewhere.

  3. I mated my F-body engine harness to the the stock 280z harness for mine. I had the same issues with corrosion around the direct power connections but that had nothing to do with the swap. Also I tried using the stock 280z fuel pump power wire for the inline walboro pump as it looked to be about 10-12awg but for some reason the correct voltage just was just not making it to the pump. I ended up running a separate wire and have been issue free since.

    ...oh and also separate relays for the 2 speed taurus fan controlled by the f-body ecm.

  4. Thanks so much for the reply-you are the first! Great advice. Since it was such a PITA, can you really tell a noticeable difference in engine movement when you drive the car? I was just thinking that some of the installation clearances between the header and the JCI mount and the exhaust and the crossmembers are pretty tight and I wanted to avoid a lot of exhaust contact with other things. If the motor really doesn't move that much I might just stick with stock mounts - any thoughts? My L24 was in rubber and didn't really move that much except the exhaust rattled on the rear crossmember; and on this install I will be using at least one flex section in my exhaust system. By the way, look at LS1tech forum on trans mount. There is a lot of chatter on there that is negative about using a poly trans mount-I guess it gave a few guys a lot of trouble.

    I difference is slight but noticeable. I never had a problem with the rubber mounts but I think they wear more quickly and I have seen some pretty loose ones on less than 100k mile LS1s (beaten on pretty hard I'm sure)Mine needed replacement so I figured poly was a cheap upgrade. As for the trans mount, are you referring to the extra noise?...I believe that's all I ever saw on tech about it.

  5. I've used both on my Cammed LS6/T56 280Z and currently have Poly in there now. When I first did the swap I had the stock rubber mounts and the motor went in without much issue. After putting in the Energy poly mounts (both sides) it was a PITA to get the motor lined up and back in the car. I dont know if the mounts caused the issue or if installing my roll bar and seats caused some chassis flex while the motor was out. On a side note I changed to Prothane poly mounts in my LS1 swapped Blazer (uses clamshell on both sides) and had the same alignment/installment problems. Either way I like them being in there since I drive this car pretty hard (drag and auto-x). There is a bit more noise/vibration transferred but I like the thought and feel of that motor being locked in there tight. I plan to switch to a poly trans mount to complete the set on my next Summit order. Also be careful to get the correct passenger side mount. I think I recall there being two different thickness mounts that appear identical.

  6. I've been reading up on clutch info and have heard that the LS7 clutch has some clutch disk wear adjusters. I've read that others had your issue and the fix was to use a press to put pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate and then adjust the adjusters with a screw driver. Apparently they are there to self adjust the clutch to keep the enagagement at the same pedal location throughout the disk wear....Just another idea I thought I'd throw out there.

  7. Do you have plans to lower your car? If so, do you plan on changing anything about your wheels/flares/tires to prevent rubbing? Will you put flares on?
    Car is now lowered via coilovers. It does not rub significantly or noticeably (no strange noises or cutting/wear on the tires) I plan to eventually buy the RBRs in 9" or 9.5" for use with my yet to be installed ZG flares.

    A few more of the stance with coilovers, 8.5" RBRs, 235/45/17:

    19231_294328199050_785199050_3476827_7879058_n.jpg

    19231_292664179050_785199050_3472146_8283961_n.jpg

    19549_1202283137798_1250165118_526888_3152777_n.jpg

    19549_1202282537783_1250165118_526886_1566713_n.jpg

    19231_292658264050_785199050_3472127_3680726_n.jpg

     

    The wheels fit spaceously over the AZC brake kit too :)

    14641_236749121912_558361912_4179192_4089261_n.jpg

  8. 1wicked260z, What kind of electric fan is that on the radiator? Is it a taurus two speed or something else? Awesome cars!!! Alan
    Its a regular spal type fan...definitely not a taurus fan which would have a good size shroud.

     

    Planning on turbo'ing my LQ4 this winter. Be prepared for some more of the sicknastiness thats already in this thread.
    damn...the ride looks sick in your sig pic those look like Rota RBs or RB-Rs...17x9s?

     

    In my experence, you don't want lots of squat in the rear for drag racing. You want the front to rise, but you want that weight transfer to firmly plant the rear tires instead of the rear suspension 'soaking' it all up'.

     

    How much is it to run at Willow Springs for the event you are attending? Although I won't be running my car, I have a few friends that might be interested.

    ahh good to know...Streets of Willow is $130 for a day or you can run sat and sun for $230...either way, spendy IMO

    http://www.speedtrialusa.com/index1.html

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