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G-Tech

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Posts posted by G-Tech

  1. 1st should be which ever has the better body. If they are both similar in condition you should keep the 280z. The zx has less support from companies for parts. Possibilities are endless with the s30 chassis. 

    You could always get the zx running and just drive it while you get the 280z ready for the motor swap.

  2. Basically what you have are generic tractor trailer tail lights. They are nice and simple and there are lots of options for them. i would atleast find LED ones so they are bright and look a little more custom. When you do LED's the car might think that the bulb is blown cause there is little resistance with LED lights. if it does that, you may want to get a resistor to put inline so the blinker doesnt blink 100mph. They are only like $7 each and install super easy. 

    i use that style light also but i kinda went crazy and made my own tail light buckets and lens to house the tail lights to give it a custom look. i found these cool versions of lights that use an infinity mirror set up to make the lights look like a tunnel when lite up. i also used the resistors and my lights blink normal.20190310_182651.thumb.jpg.351bad894e43533235b41bbbe15d9324.jpg 

  3. 9 hours ago, Chopshop280zx said:

    I have a 1982 280zx with a stock 6.0 ls with a powerglide. The car works great out of the whole but I need to put more power down how can I get this rear end to handle more horse power. If I could get this car to hold about 500 horses out the whole it would be a killer. Some body help me remove these stock axles please. The Z car world has forgotten about the 280zx

     

    i have a 280ZX with LS swap that has 400WHP and a 6-speed. i have the stock r-200 with Quaife internals. that has held up flawlessly. there are other options for internals for the r-200 also. that diff should handle it fine.The problem you will have is if you still have universal joint half shafts and then stub axles was the week link i found. Mine beeing a stick shift though is harder on the drivetrain. you might be fine if you just upgrade to 280zxt CV joints and you will have to switch the stub axle companion flange also. (both of which i have that i would sell if you decide to go that route). if you can afford it, i got custom Chromoly stub axles and companion flanges made to switch to 300zxt CV joints (gonna be close to $2k). when im at the drag strip i dump the clutch at 4k RPM and run 11.8's all day. it takes it fine. And yes, the Z car world still does not appreciate the 280zx. There are a few of us going the extra effort to make them work however.

     

    And to keep this on track with this 5-lug conversation topic, shops that are making custom stub axles and custom front hubs are willing to make them 5-lug for you. i found that F-body Camaro wheel studs are almost identical so i bought ARP wheel studs for the Camaro and i run them with my 4-lug set up with no issue

  4. You kinda have the same dream as alot of zx owners. Unfortunately I've never seen it done to great success. Your car is surprisingly different than the older 240,260 and even 280z..if your very talented with body work and or have some money to pay someone talented, you can be the 1st. My suggestion is embrace the uniqueness of the 280zx (s130 chassis)...i have a 280zx also so I'm on your side...

  5. depends how well it ends up running as is. chances are you will chase down a handful of little issues. in which case you mine as well go for the swap so that you can get to know it better and make things right. it will be a little faster also. Value wise i think going for the swap is going to be better too. it doesnt look like an original turbo car so there is not big value for it the way it is. older Z's are getting good money for original but i dont know anyone that specifically searches for an original 280zx. only turbo 280zx's are worth leaving as is, the rest are free to do whatever with in my opinion. and trying to make it a turbo model will be more work than the VQ35. 

    good luck with it, it does look pretty solid from a quick pic that you have

  6. i dont see why you would need to swap crossmember, the motors are the same as far as bolting to the car goes. the suspension is the same, no need to change that either. i think the hardest thing is going to be swapping the harness. 

    the rearend is possibly different. turbo cars are R200's with 3:54 gears. you will have to find out based on what exact model you have to know what rearend you have. the CV joint style halfshaft in the turbo car is much better. for that you will also need the outer stub axles that mate up to it. Bottom line is i think you will want to swap the entire rear subframe, thats if your parts car has all that still. 

    ive never done it, just speaking of my experience with s130 chassis so hopefully someone who has done it will confirm my beliefs 

    good luck!

  7. Depends if you have the computer or not already. if you dont, you just have to get a DBC throttle body and a F-body Camaro computer. They were DBC. Thats what i did. Im just a mechanical guy so it seemed easier but i"ve learned its not a big deal to do DBW if thats what you have. Im not sure what has to happen with the gas pedal for DBW but my guess is there is a simple solution for it if you research it.

  8. i dont have the same swap as you but when i did a swap in my zx i explained to the driveshaft shop that the rear-end doesn't move and they took my fixed measurements and made it so the slip yoke goes half way in. this way when you install it, you can slid it all the way in 1st, then pull it out to mate with the rear-end. if you make the driveshaft length with the yoke fully seated, you would probably fight with it when you lift the back up to meet with the rear-end .

  9. He buys plain rotors then has them slotted by someone else. Guessing it saves him money somehow, probably buying rotors in bulk. I like his stuff, i have his full brake kit for my 280zx (although i didnt know i was losing my parking brake till i was installing everything) but he has never been good at customer service. Not sure if he is too busy or what. 

  10. The bumper on top I've only seen in pictures from cars in Japan, so not sure you can get it in the states. The front end on the bottom looks like someone made the grill and lower air dam from an older z fit somehow...it actually looks like they did a good job. I dont know how easy it would be cause I've never seen that before. I would check out MSA (motorsport auto)...you can do a simple lower airdam to add a different look or I bought their full front bumber with the fog light buckets molded in. I'm pretty happy with it, definitely changed up the front end. Alot of people (me included) like the look of the older z front grill but you will find that the 280zx is very different from the 240,260, and 280z...many people have tried to make the zx front look like the older z's and I've seen only a couple good results...all depends on how much knowledge and experience you have with doing body mods

  11. I would say it's better to replace things like the exhaust with a better exhaust or replace suspension with better than OEM parts....the turbo model was the top notch option for zx's...if it was a turbo model and not already modified, then I would say it's best to keep it pure for resale value....the 280zx isnt getting alot of appreciation and unless its absolutely original, I dont see anyone paying top dollar cause its 10th aniv.

    It also cost alot to make a zx pretty fast with horsepower and all that. So you wont get your money back.

    I think someone will pay respectable money for a good running one with mild upgrades...

    That's my 2 cents anyway

  12. Very cool to hear!!! I've been seeing your post for  while now. Never really followed to close as I'm a s130 guy but to hear your driving it is awsome!!. So often there are threads of builds that go longer than expected. I've been a victim of it too. So congrats on beeing a guy that's completing one to a point you can drive it again. They are never done, so keep it up...

  13. I like to encourage people to do the sbc swap cause it is alot easier to do than a ls swap into the 280zx but u should get another beater for a daily driver temporarily...you will never be able to think of every part u need and do the swap in a weeks time...there will always be a fitting or hose or random pieces u will need to get along the way....I rented a barn for 2 months and I knew it had to be done in that amount of time. It was a grind getting it done in that time. 

  14. congrats!!! good job sticking with it. i think the best thing i learned is you found a different oil pan that works. also probably helped going turbo so you didnt have to squeeze headers down by the steering shaft. what did you do with the power steering? i bet it pulls real good beeing turboed. i would definitely get some frame support in there, get that Rad support put back some how. i think beeing an automatic will help wear and tear on the rear end, cv joints, and stub axles. i blame hard lauches with my standard trans as the reason i snapped stub axles.  cool, you have something fun to mess with the big boys now. stock mustangs and camaro's will be no match.

  15. as long as its a hydraulic clutch you'll be in good shape. you wanna get a better clutch master cyl from willwood the stock master cyl is not good enough, but they are not too badly priced. a great thing about a SBC is there is no wire harness necessary. you have ignition wire for distributor, mark your original wires for tachometer signal, the starter, power for alternator which i think the JTR manual explains,  you'll run new wires  for any sensors you want. it is very simple, just take it 1 piece at a time and at some point the list gets shorter. if you have power steering, make note of which hose is the pressure line and return line. make special note that power steering rack is metric so you need to make a hose to go from English pwr steering pump to metric pwr steering rack.  i dont think there is any specific radiator hoses, i just made a diagram of what i needed and went behind the counter of autozone and looked thru the selection. you can always return them and switch out for others if you dont get it right. and last thing that im thinking of is make sure you ground the motor to the body. i ran a cable from the back of the head to the firewall. i think i just wrote a book :) , write down what you need to know for a check list and just cross things off as you go. let me know what else you need as you go.

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