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G-Tech
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Posts posted by G-Tech
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this was mine with the 1" lower springs. way,way,way back
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yes they are the best place to buy them from. if you spend some time looking, you might find them cheaper but msa is the best if you just wanna make sure your getting the right thing. before you buy inner tie rods, look into what it takes to change that. i just did outers. and dont bother with wheel bearings unless they are bad. if you ever do front brake rotors, you will have to change them then and doing the rear wheel bearings involve pulling the stub-axles out. the pic looks like what you should end up with with eibach coils. there is only 1" drop coils for sale and thats it, anything more and your getting into coilovers.
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i believe you can keep stock struts. id call and ask 1st. most people like i did get a set of tokico shocks and struts. the front is a bit interesting, the strut casing and spindle is 1 unit. if your shocks have never been replaced in the front, then you actually gut the strut casing and slide a new shock in the tube. not a bad job, just strange. yeah, poly bushings are a nice upgrade. makes things a lil stiffer but it will handle better. while your at it, replace balljoints and tie rod ends. if wheel bearings are not making noise then you can skip that but that would be about all thats left to say you rebuilt the whole bottom end of the car. not sure on sway bar dia., got rid of my stock one long time ago. id call motorsport auto about using the stock strut and shocks and see what they know about the sway bar. they are not the cheapest place usually but they have lots of info.
and yes, that motor is simply to blow air onto the intake, funny huh...im guessing they had a reason...
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eibach makes a 1" lowering spring. that would be the "right way" and the most affordable. i ran them before, good quality.
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its a couple years old but doesnt look good. looks like what i went threw with showcars.com in canada
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I am doing the same thing with the electric line lock but using it to lock out the rear brakes. To keep a cleaner engine compartment..plus it would feel weird not using my foot on the brake pedal when doing a burnout...
But dont forget to release it when your done or you wont have rear brakes when you get to the end of the track...
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Wow!!! Very cool. It's fun to have a family tie to a car...that's how mine is too...how much more you have to go to fire it up? Kinda wish I kept my motor swap in the nissan family. Just felt it was gonna be cheaper to do a LS motor. Not sure that is true when all is said and done. Looks awsome!!!
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i noticed yesterday on another thread that "miles" had pointed out a shop called Z fever (or now called fever racing) that has done swaps for the s130. i checked out their website today and found that they may have something to offer for swapping a LS into a 280zx. not sure exactly what but for those trying to get the swap done, that is another resource to contact. if someone calls them, please post results here.
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tire rack and carid have some. cheapest i see is $100 each. just when your searching, put in the car info so it will tell you if they fit or not. you need to be concearned with center bore diameter also if you are just searching without putting in year/make and model. try ebay too. if you check ebay, make sure you dont get something that needs adapters. you dont want to get into them if your gonna do any racing. when you put in make and model of your car (im sure you know) your car is a datsun and/or a nissan. so if you dont see datsun, then put in nissan.
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no, they are 5 lug. you have 4. 114.3 is correct and everything else was fine
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i only know from beeing a 280zx owner that very very little things can switch over from a s30 chassis to a s130 (280zx). i know for v8 swap motor mounts there is different ones for each chassis. if you have good fab skills you could probably make it work but you might be better off with something universal and make your own. like miles said, keep searching here and just google in general and see what you can find. the 280zx is the odd ball chassis and not much is gonna be easy. if you have fab skills like welding mainly, i would say get the motor sitting in the car and see what you can do from there
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Good to see another one completed...its not an easy task for the s130 chassis...if you ever wanted to do the headers a different way you could get a blockhugger header for the pass side and a manifold style that exits towards the firewall for the driver side..that's what I did for years. If you do go turbo then what u have is good. I think at times doing what everyone else is doing by adding a turbo but then I go for a rip and realize that I have absolutely no need for more power. Nice to see another option for the oil pan. That is definitely another major stepping stone for this swap in the 280zx. I did the same engine mount combo. Good job, dare to be different!!!
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Funny, watching your video cause I'm going threw the same struggles like sanding, then sanding, then sanding, etc..and missing the fact that u wont get the edge of the cowl painted when the car is assembled, and just having to deal with it...its real life struggles your having... I'm frustrated with sanding and there might be a thing or 2 that are not perfect but watching your videos make me relieved I'm not the only one....great job!!!!
Bought couple of your shirts(one for me and one for the wife) to try to do my part to support the cause....
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What year car ? You cant tell what its held up on?
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im no expert but i have looked at altering or making new trailing arms for my zx and it doesn't seem so straight forward. they are a semi-trailing arm, they are not just 90deg to the wheel, they are mounted on an angle. i wanted to do something because the wheel pulls forward when the car squats. and the zx's like to squat. i have 17x8 with 0-offset with 235/45 tires and i had to clearance the front of the wheel well lip. it was actually hitting the front of the wheel well. i have a 400whp LS motor in it but i also have 380lb springs in the rear and the car comes stock with 125lb springs. you can put like eibach springs in it but its still gonna squat pretty good even with a stock motor. i want to eventually figure out how to move the mounting point for the semi-trailing arm back more. you can play with the offsets and run inward more. i have lots of room to the inside left over but my opinion (again im no expert) but with a car that squats alot, once it does, and you have some crazy offset wheel, the tire is not gonna stay flat on the road and you will just end up riding on the inside edge. so i stuck with 0-offset cause thats what the car was designed for. and i get lots of traction. ive road coarsed it and i go to the dragstrip alot and i am very happy with it. even when i had a stock v8 in it and was still running the 14x6's the car hooked pretty good. the zx's get lots of traction as is.
im not saying something different cant be done or that it would be wrong so do whatever you can do. i see that there is others with the wider tires but id be curious if they rub when they are hard on them.
good luck
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think you mean patch panels? i have yet to see anything for that. and get a hard dash cover. they are still cheap and look really good. just put down some good RTV or the sun will warp it. but if you keep a sun visor for the windshield that will make the cover last a lifetime.
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welcome to the odd ball s130 club. thats exactly what my car started as (exterior and interior)..if your on a budget, spend your money wisely. these are hard cars to do on the cheap. stay away from showcars.com for any fiberglass parts. those wheels are 14x6 with 0-offset. the only things your gonna get to replace them cheap is some standard steel wheels. id start with getting it running first. atleast at that point you could get more money for it if you decide to sell it. not a quick car for todays standards but they are very fun cars to drive. and as you have been informed, almost nothing on them relates to a 240,260,or even a 280z. they dont look so cool with the bumpers off like the older ones do. but hey everyone has a taste. enjoy whatever you do and good luck with it.
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try them, think they have what you need...you will run into trouble when you need door weatherstripping or if you have t-tops and need the rubber that mounts to the car
https://zcarsource.com/weatherstrip-seals/weatherstrip-280zx/hatch-seals-bumper
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i was hoping someone else would check in since my info is all over this thread but not sure since there isnt many out there. ive seen 2 or 3 that have been finished but not much if any info from them in a while. and a few more that are in the same boat you are. the problem with the oil pan is on most of them, the front of the pan and the rear sump hang too low. my front is so shallow on mine that i cant run a stroker motor but it allowed me to get the motor low enuff. on most pans, the rear sump ends up below the crossmember and become the lowest part of the car. the one from Canton just had all the right dimensions and 5+ years ago that was the only one. look up the dimensions for canton pan and see what might be out there now.
the dirty dingo mounts can probably work but mostlikly will require some sort of mods. the mounting holes on a LS end up behind the crossmember so you will mount the motor mounts to the cross member then you will need a plate that moves the mounting holes towards the rear of the car. the ones dirty dingo has for the older Z's looks like thats what it does but note that the older Z's are different so its not going to be exact. good luck, anything is possible if your able to put in the work.
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That is definitely a different steering rack then mine. Might help for clearing the manifolds. Block huggers would run right into that box. That's strang how different the rack is. Similar shaft but your right how it stays over the frame more. That's good
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thank you much. i hope to have it back and driving in 2 months. just intime to drive it a couple times then tuck it away for the winter. im sure you might have noticed the gas cap beeing a fellow s130 owner. there was also engine bay smoothing out, shaved blinkers front bumper for blinkers built into headlights, some other mods and a yet to be reveled new design of tail lights.
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how are you making out with the storm? i hope all is ok
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here is a sign of something new. this was yesterday. now the road of reassembly starts. so glad that step is over, it was many many hours...
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keep trucking along. there will be plenty of speed bumps. there is no road blocks though. i still have my first header set up that i would be willing to part with. i have a set of hooker manifolds modified for the steering shaft and a set of block huggers for the pass side. neither will fit on both sides. i think $300 plus shipping would be fair cause i would have to sell you both sets cause what would i do with one and one. but both sets are ceramic coated and holding up well. thats about the only set that will bolt up. or you do what i did and buy sets from jegs and return them if they dont fit but i tried them all but if you mount your motor slightly different then mine, mayb something different will fit. the steering shaft is biggest deal and the brake lines on pass side is why the manifolds wont work on that side. i had a small block chevy in first and they have block huggers that merge into one collector really quick and thats why they fit around steering shaft. LS block huggers dont merge into one until further down and there is no cramming 4 pipes between shaft and frame rail. i did it with billy boat headers but was alot of modifying. let me know, goodluck.....
Budget build ZX
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
Headlight cover are just regular tinted ones. Tires were stock size. You can go lil more offset. I have 17x8 0-offset on the rear now with 235's. Stock 14's are only 6" wide, I wouldn't go more then a 225 but I've seen people do things I wouldn't