mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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That sounds reasonable. I don't think many of us are trying to build the kind of power you are building so some of our goals are a little different.
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ok, fair enough, I'm a dummy.
I just have to learn for myself that in my case bumping from 7.8:1 to 12:1 is going to be insignificant. -
I think torque is what we would be interested in with the CR bump. I am not saying that a high compression turbo engine is built for a race car, just like I wouldn't say that a low compression engine running 30psi boost would be fun to drive to work everyday. My point is that if a person wants a fun commuter car I believe high comrpession is one way to go, or a really small turbine so you build boost at low rpms. Either one should be fun to commute in, neither one will have a big horsepower potential. I am not guessing about it, I am building one up to see. Hopefully the original poster will do the same. Then we can be two more guys saying that high compression and turbos is good or not good for our driving styles.
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The power differential between a low compression motor (say 7.4) and a high compression motor (say 10) is not that significant off-boost.
What dyno graphs did you see between the two?
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With this many opinions I bet the original poster gets the idea. A high compression turbo engine goes against the grain, so very few people are going to have useful input. If that is what you want it is best to try it and see what the pitfalls are for yourself.
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At Denver altitude maybe it is not too much. Since E85 is available here I would go for more than 10:1 and run E85 if it was me. I am shooting for 12:1 and E85 on my daily driver car. Daily drivers are much more fun with high compression and low boost IMO.
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The original post implies that something is wrong if the studs are only hand tight, but that is OK. You put them in hand tight and that is it. I just removed mine on my 4G63 and all the studs came out easily by hand after removing the nuts. Also, make sure you use the ARP moly lube and correct torque specs with the lube. The moly lube makes a huge difference on getting the correct torque without friction becoming an issue.
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-Sharpie the whole contact on the distributor rotor, after you get the trigger offset right, make sure that the sharpie is worn away towards the middle of the contact, it its not, move the distributor and reset the trigger offset. I was getting a missfire if I went below 20 degress because it was firing off the edge of the contact.
I have never heard of that method before. That is a great idea on how to check the rotor phasing.
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There is one real reason I have seen for not using sockets, but I don't think it would apply to the megasquirt. If you look at old circuits that have been run for 20-30 years the pins of the parts put in sockets corrode and the parts have to be replaced. The parts soldered on the board do not have this problem. I notice this on arcade and pinball machines from the late 70's and early 80's. The arcade machines were probably powered on 24/7 for a few years of their life. Maybe when you have run an MS unit in your car for over 20 years the socket may be unreliable
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I think the lc1 with gauge is pretty cheap right now, like $230 at diyautotune.
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How many more things do you have to do before the car is finished?
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I've got a dsm that I use as a daily driver.
Its torn apart in the garage as we speak. I'm putting in a new engine and clutch. Just monthly maintenance.
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I went to ebay real quick and here are some detailed pictures. You can almost see what color wires are going to the prongs. I guess I never looked underneath my dizzy.
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hmm, I don't recall any prongs on the 83 turbo dizzy. I thought the wires came out of the optical unit inside.
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There is a diagram in the installation sticky from Tony D that shows how to wire the injectors to megasquirt.
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This info is in the installation sticky, it lists the colors for both the dizzy side and the harness side.
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Thanks for the update Matt.
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I believe that this thread was started so long ago that MS2 extra did not exist. Now it does so it should offer a lot of advantages. Over the last two years I have not come across anyone on the net that is using MSI or MS2 extra to run boost control. Maybe someone is doing it now and will come forward.
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Yeah, I used the stock LS1 98 type stainless steel manifolds to avoid problems like that.
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I have a DSM and a Turbo LSx, why would it be a pain? Run E85 on the 9.5:1 compression 5.3 and also have turbo. Best of both worlds, NA power of V8 and boost. I love it, but I broke my turbo so I am waiting to get it rebuilt.
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You gotta do what you want with the car. Its all about learning and trying different setups.
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I got the Lt1 running. I followed the direction from diyautotune sight for the pullup resistor. I ended up using a 4 pin HEI module to fire the coil, stock module should work fine. I used a piston stop to locate TDC to verify timing.
Thanks everyone for the help.
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Im really starting to think megasquirt is trash.
Some threads end this way, what a shame.
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Good news, man we have a lot of trouble with noise. This may call for a condensed noise sticky that outlines all known issues....
I just have to learn for myself that in my case bumping from 7.8:1 to 12:1 is going to be insignificant.
how to increase compression ratio on a turbo
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
My 12:1 engine is up and running with 9psi boost on e85. Only got about 250 miles on it so far but no problems.