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mobythevan

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Posts posted by mobythevan

  1. I think torque is what we would be interested in with the CR bump. I am not saying that a high compression turbo engine is built for a race car, just like I wouldn't say that a low compression engine running 30psi boost would be fun to drive to work everyday. My point is that if a person wants a fun commuter car I believe high comrpession is one way to go, or a really small turbine so you build boost at low rpms. Either one should be fun to commute in, neither one will have a big horsepower potential. I am not guessing about it, I am building one up to see. Hopefully the original poster will do the same. Then we can be two more guys saying that high compression and turbos is good or not good for our driving styles.

  2. The original post implies that something is wrong if the studs are only hand tight, but that is OK. You put them in hand tight and that is it. I just removed mine on my 4G63 and all the studs came out easily by hand after removing the nuts. Also, make sure you use the ARP moly lube and correct torque specs with the lube. The moly lube makes a huge difference on getting the correct torque without friction becoming an issue.

  3. -Sharpie the whole contact on the distributor rotor, after you get the trigger offset right, make sure that the sharpie is worn away towards the middle of the contact, it its not, move the distributor and reset the trigger offset. I was getting a missfire if I went below 20 degress because it was firing off the edge of the contact.

     

    I have never heard of that method before. That is a great idea on how to check the rotor phasing.

  4. There is one real reason I have seen for not using sockets, but I don't think it would apply to the megasquirt. If you look at old circuits that have been run for 20-30 years the pins of the parts put in sockets corrode and the parts have to be replaced. The parts soldered on the board do not have this problem. I notice this on arcade and pinball machines from the late 70's and early 80's. The arcade machines were probably powered on 24/7 for a few years of their life. Maybe when you have run an MS unit in your car for over 20 years the socket may be unreliable :-)

  5. I got the Lt1 running. I followed the direction from diyautotune sight for the pullup resistor. I ended up using a 4 pin HEI module to fire the coil, stock module should work fine. I used a piston stop to locate TDC to verify timing.

     

    Thanks everyone for the help.

  6. At this point I am as confused as you. The easiest way to determine the correct edge since I am having a hard time spinning the opti by hand to get a good picture on the scope is going to be using the either edge option in 029y4 code. I plan to grab the timing light, make a temporary mark on the damper and crank the engine using rising edge then falling edge and see which one gives the correct stable trigger. If I had a second person to help I could hook a drill to the opti and get a good scope plot with the pullup, but this will be easier at this point. My test setup requires too many hands to support the opti unit and crank it, plus get the correct time base set on the scope. At this point I can just see that the trigger is working, but I haven't zoomed out to catch all 8 slots on screen at once.

     

    EDIT: I wasn't correct on the rising falling selectable trigger, that is only for second trigger setups. The main tach input has to be set up in hardware for rising or falling edge. My setup is working correctly with it wired and set up just like the L28ET installation sticky. I am now having trouble controlling the LT1 ignition module so I think I will just hook up an old HEI 4 pin module to control the coil and call it a day.

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