mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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The info I posted was from the sticky install guide and I thought that answered the question, but now it seems to me it is not clear enough. I will change it as follows if this sounds better to you guys.
from the guide:
My 240sx TPS has 3 wires coming out of it to a seperate connector. These wires are connected to the relay board as follows:
Red to Vref
White to TPS
Black to TPS ret
Should I change it to read:
My 240sx TPS has 3 wires coming out of it to a seperate pigtail connector as well as a connector built onto the TPS sensor. The connector on the TPS sensor does not plug into anything. The wires that come out to the pigtail are connected to the relay board as follows:
Red to Vref
White to TPS
Black to TPS ret
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My 240sx TPS has 3 wires coming out of it to a seperate connector. These wires are connected to the relay board as follows:
Red to Vref
White to TPS
Black to TPS ret
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I was trying to remember everything I have heard about resets, some of it is pretty weird at this point. All of speeder's points were very good, along with everyone elses input. We just keep pounding you with ideas and it seems like you got it fixed now. I am going to sticky this thread and modify the title a little. The resets/grounding/plug cables affect a lot of people.
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Awesome news. Hopefully that is the end of this story.
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I didn't look at the log you attached, but are both coolant sensors reading OK? I had my IAT go bad and the car ran good but had idle problems because it was making it too rich. Not related to tach problems, but just in case.
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yeah, put the condenser/cap from 12v postive on coil to ground. You can do a quick search on the internet for alternator noise capacitor and come up with some simple equations or estimations to calculate the size.
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The condensers are capacitors and they go between 12volts and ground. I always have one at the coil positive. I have spent some time measuring noise on the 12 volts systems and the most seems to come from the coil or coils, the alternator and the injectors. Keep at it, these kind of problems will force you to learn about parts of the system you never wanted to learn about.
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It's one thing to have resets, quite another for the MS firmware to become corrupted and require a reload. At the risk of stating the obvious, something is still quite wrong here.
You guys have probably seen some of my posts in the past about one of my friends TPI installations that continually gets resets to the point that the firmware has to be re-loaded just like stated above.
Some of this has been posted before, but some of it is new:
We had found that his processor chip was not seated all the way in the socket on the megasquirt board, that helped a little bit.
Since then he continued to get resets and firmware corruption to the point that he gave up and sold the truck to another one of my friends that has more experience with cars and megasquirt, then:
I looked over the entire setup and didn't like several things about it, there were not good grounds across the entire vehicle. I suggested to add big ground cables from the engine block to the frame, add smaller ground cables from the engine block to chassis, add better ground from MS relay board to chassis.
After that the resets got better again, but not fixed. My friend then noticed that the relay board was mounted in a position that caused the exhaust to heat it up a bunch, when it got really hot the resets started. He swapped out relay boards and also moved it away from the heat source. So far this has fixed the reset and corruption problem.
The PO had used super human strength to push the fuses into the relay board and had totally busted the sockets. I believe he had also damaged the internal traces of the circuit board by pushing so hard he flexed the board itself. The heat cycles then causes power traces to start opening up making for all kinds of trouble.
Just some more stuff to think about since it seems like a weird one. All I can say about this installation that had resets vs all of my other installations that run fine is that virutally everything was done in a hack job manner. Grounding between battery/engine/frame/chassis was non-existent. Stuff was so messed up that the LC-1 that was installed ended up going bad, no idea what is wrong with it but it is dead now.
In general there is no such thing as too much grounding. Having at least one condenser near the coil is required. Resistor plugs and resistor wires can save the day. Make sure someone did a good job soldering your MS board. I know all of this has been mentioned before, but it never hurts to mention it again.
Good Luck
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Unfortunately I have some bad news from this weekend. My turbo had not been spooling the last couple drives. Keep in mind I have only driven this car in the driveway about 10 times total. I pulled the air filter off to make sure the turbo spins freely, turns out the compressor shaft got bent somehow. When you spin the compressor by hand it wobbles around and touches the housing. The turbo was a rebuilt T6 (rebuilt by detroit diesel). I have never really read of anyone having this happen before. It had an air filter on it the hole time and the blades are perfect so nothing hit them. I guess it was heat that did it?? I had primed the oil line and it built boost the first couple drives. Pretty weird, I am going to talk to Dave at majestic turbo to try and understand what could cause this before I get another turbo or get this one rebuilt. I will probably have this one rebuilt with an 88mm wheel, that was my plan for further down the road. The turbine wheel does not seem to wobble, so the bend is only on the compressor wheel end. I checked the trubo repeatedly during the install whenever I would re-clock the housings to make sure the shaft spun freely and I never saw a problem with it. hmmmm.....
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Have you checked the timing with a light? If it is getting too much fuel then start to cut down cranking enrichments and required fuel settings until it starts. This is also balanced with cracking the throttlebody open enough that you get the air needed to idle.
What size injectors did the other person msq file use? What size are your injectors? I used an msq once and forgot about that, the other guy was using 950cc injectors and I was using 450cc injectors. Needless to say I couldn't get it running until I figured that out. If you are uncertain then I would just re-calculate the required fuel by entering the size of your injectors.
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When you have finalized the tuning and put everything up I can copy it into the map sharing sticky. Thanks for the info.
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The car looks awesome, I hope to catch a glimpse of it driving around town.
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There are a few ways to get the VE tuned in. I usually turn off AFR correction and get the table closer by driving around and tuning by hand.
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Congrats.
BTW, I still think grumpy is a computer. You type in the question and you get back all the info and links that you wanted. The posts always come back with pictures, formatting, bold and caps. I dunno, I say computer or robot.
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Your AFR table looks good, but how much authority does it have? Maybe it is running lean and can't correct enough because the VE table is too far off.
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The timing in your table seems low to me? Have you verified that the timing matches with a light?
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If you are using time based cranking you may need to hold ignition off for a couple spins of the crank so that it gets up to speed before you start firing.
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The car is just setting right now. I start it every weekend to charge the battery. With the economy down I am not spending any money on it anytime in the near future. Will update when things take an upswing.
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I think the easiest way to swap the LS1 intake is to also swap the water pump. I think the 5.3 water pump hits the LS1 TB. It has been a while since I swapped the parts, but I swapped all of them including accesories from the LS1.
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I'm sure those pictures have nothing to do with the scammer. The scammer just grabbed them from another photobucket account, ebay auction or forum and made a quick account to post the craigslist scam.
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The other red flag:
Thanks for being interested in buying my car.It seems like every scam known to man starts off with this kind of tag line. You know, "thanks for being interested in my ad, thanks for looking past my poor translation of the english, thanks for sending me all your personal info so I can scam you, and also thanks for emailing back so I can forward your address to my other 100 Nigerian friends.
I have never dealt with a real person that starts off by saying thanks for being interested in my add. You have to give them credit though, they are persistent. "Let me tell you a few words about the car"
And what is this line suppose to mean in America? --"now as a woman i don`t need it". I say foreign scammer all the way.
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Is the one you just listed in the Map Sharing sticky? Just making sure we get as many MAPs as possible in the sticky.
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That clears up several things.
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I believe that is it, just turn it on. You could use my values I guess, like they say it is only for resets whcih should not occur ever on a normally operating megasquirt installation.
Help identifiying ms
in MegaSquirt
Posted
One way might be to follow the assembly guide as if you were constructing the box. Might be a little tough since some silkscreen part designators may be covered up by installed parts.