mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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I can't really think of a good reason to go EDIS since you already have the setup for 83 dizzy and MSD. I suppose you will get a little more jitter in the spark timing with the dizzy, but for all practical purposes I say save some money/time and stay with what you have. That makes for an easy straight forward megasquirt intall, at least in theory
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Does that turbo use a T6 flange? Also, does it have a 5" v-band output? I can see it is v-band, but just wondering the size. My turbo went to crap on me and to swap a new one easily it needs a T6 flange and 5" v-band.
BTW, those homemade turbo manifolds looke really good. Like Scottie said, spark plug wire clearance may be the only issue.
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I filled up this morning for $1.67 for the lowest grade unleaded.
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That is one run down car! Maybe it would have some good parts though.
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Any updates to this? Are you still having trouble?
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here is the info from my last invoice:
Item Description Unit Qty Price
--------------- ------------------------------ ------- --- -------
MGC37F DB37 Female-Female Mini Gender $4.25 2 $8.50
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Regarding the fetch and burn - its almost like it automatically sends the changed values to the MS for me. In the spark window there were two red messages - unsent and unburned (or something like that). From the manual it looks like it puts my changes directly to the RAM but does not burn them to the flash unless I tell it to.
Yeah, that must be correct. I am not sure what good fetch does then??
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2. Trying to calibrate the TPS. I ran their wizard and got some numbers. How do I "save" these?
I usually open up real time display on a new install and see if the throttle position shows zero when off the pedal and 100% when pushing all the way down. If it doesn't, then I go to their calibration tool. Don't touch the pedal and get the closed throttle count. Push it all the way down and get the full throttle count. Then close out of the calibration window and then shut down megatune. It seems to pick up the settings when starting up megatune again. Re-start megatune, go to real time display and make sure it shows zero when not touching the pedal and 100% when pushing the pedal. If so then calibration worked. That has always worked for me.
3. Should "Fetch from ECU" and "Send to ECU" in the various MS menus change things? It seems like "Fetch" doesn't actually do anything. I want to make sure my settings are making it to the ECU.
Fetch will just bring back whatever values are loaded into the megatune screen you are viewing. To test it open up the spark table and type in 15 degrees of timing in several cells that have some other value, do not burn them, now hit fetch and see that the original values are restored in the spark table. Once you hit burn that is what will be fetched next time. I try to always make sure I burn the values and save them at the same time so I don't end up with a saved file that doesn't match what was burned.
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Actually, I would not be very contented running a nearly 2-bar car with only 8 load bands. Doesn't MS have a 12x12 table available now? If so, I'd be all over it.
MSI extra code has 12x12 VE tables and spark tables, but only 8x8 target AFR tables.
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This will work, right?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062343
Correct me if im wrong, but it goes like this:
Switched 12v----------1/4w 1k resistor---------then where?
Yeah, refer back to your picture.
Switched 12v----------1/4w 1k resistor---------green/black dizzy wire
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Good troubleshooting. Congrats on getting up and running.
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An MSD coil would be just fine.
The old ballast reistor is not used anymore, it was used on the 240 z to lower voltage to the coil. Remove it and connect the two wires that went to it together.
The new 1K resistor you need would be termed as a "1k pullup resistor". It serves a different function than the old ballast resistor.
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Anyone?...
Something to remember when you make posts like this is that a lot of us have jobs, families, etc. We don't camp out on the forum all day/night long.
I would use a coil off an turbo car at the very least. I would remove the ballast resistor and connect the two wires together so the new coil has full battery voltage. You can connect into this wire for 12 volt switched supply to the realy board or other things (like the distributor power wire).
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Ok, so only three of four will need to be connected in my case, correct? The green/black to the relay board, the black to a ground, and the black with white to a constant 12v source? Will a wire directly off the battery be sufficient to the distributor?
Yes that is all correct. And the green/black wire needs the resistor to 12 volts (resistor A) as your picture shows. You can buy that resistor at radio shack or on the web from digi-key or Jameco.
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That being said, where will the other wires off the distributor go since we're not using the GM HEI module?
Did you read my post?
Also, where can I find the appropriate resistor? Will the stock due fine? If not, can someone link me to one? Thanks again guys!What is this the resistor for?
Also, fast idle is not necessary, correct? Just an accessory, correct?That question is for you to answer, do you want fast idle or not.
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Why would someone use the HEI if they could just use the distributor?
In your case you need three things to fire the spark plugs: a coil, a coil driver, and a distributor. The 83 turbo distributor does not contain a coil driver, therefore you need to supply one (either HEI module, IGBT transistor inside a v3.0 megasquirt, or some other ignition module like MSD). Becuase you are using v3.0 you will not need a GM HEI module.
Wire everything like the last picture you put up. But remember that two more wires from the 83 distributor need to be connected to the car. That is what the schematic above was showing. The black wire from the distributor connects to ground, the black with white stripe from the distributor connects to 12 volts. The wrie colors at the distributor change once you get to the first wire harness plug. The change is listed in the installation sticky, so make sure you know which side of the harness connector you are on when wiring up the distributor.
For the injectors, if you are running high impedance injectors then you can wire just like the last picture. If you are running low impedance injectors and pulse width modulation then you can also wire just like the picture. If you are using low impedance injectors but no pulse width modulation, then you need to wire resistors in for the injectors. There is a diagram in the sticky showing how to wire the resistors if you need them.
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The way the gender changer plug (actually, was just a solder cup) works is basically a straight through, while the cable you need to actually make MS work needs to be the opposite, like a mirror image of each solder cup
The gender changers I bought worked fine for connecting the relay board directly to the MS box. I measured them when they showed up, they do not just go straight through pin to pin.
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under spark settings, what do you have for "cranking timing" and "hold ignition"? Please post your msq file.
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My friends truck uses high impedance injectors, but thanks for heads up on the flyback problem.
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You didn't mention in the list of things if you are running resistor spark plugs.
I would use an oscilliscope at this point to see if there really is noise on any of the power lines or if the power is just dropping for small amounts of time. On my rx7 I had to measure the noise with a scope and size the capacitors correctly to get rid of it. I couldn't just drop in standard car condensers and filter it out. Once the correct size capacitors were installed all the noise was cleaned up as verified with the scope and the car running smooth. The noise I had did not cause resets, it just caused a lot of false triggers to MS which caused the car to run rough.
As a side note, my friend called me this morning and said the truck is still getting resets. I told him you were still having them as well. It looks like we will be scoping the truck to see if we can find the cause.
I remember reading once that a pin on the processor might have been left floating and noise could cause this floating pin to reset the processor. I'll have to dig that back up and see if I was dreaming or if it is real.
I wonder if changing the battery would change the resets, in a way the battery acts as a big noise filter. That was just a crazy thought that occurred to me as I was typing this response.
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I don't know exactly what it was used for. I went ahead and changed the text in the install guide.
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be sure to continue updating the sticky thread about your reset problems. It is still a useful thread even if you are continuing to troubleshoot the problem.
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My friends truck that had the similar type of resetting issues did not change with a new MS box. It only changed with a new relay board. Not sure if you will see the same thing. It would be nice if you could borrow another MS unit to try before buying one.
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Did you need to re-load firmware because of another reset problem or was it the spilled water that caused the issues?
Project Turbo LS1
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I don't know much about hptuners, but have you thought about running E85 on this setup?(if it is available in your area) That would be perfect for the LS1 compression and turbo. The down side is having enough fuel pump and injectors for it. I am running 150lb injectors so I can use E85 and dual walbro pumps.