mobythevan

Got my adjustable watts link and adjustable control arms installed over the weekend. Now I can center the rear axle and align the thrust angle. The old non-adjustable links worked for some test driving, but I'm sure the alignment was not very good.

Thank You Matt

In regard to the video you linked, this is one of the things that is confusing to me about IAC control. This video seems to be using standard megasquirt and not extra code. In extra code the plunger closes off the airflow during homing. That is how it is explained in the extra forum by James. However, in this video, Evan explains that homing mode opens the airflow. Do you know if Evan uses standard megasquirt or extra code?

On several different occasions I have tried to get the GM IAC to work on my 5.3 engine. The IAC is actually off an LS1, I am using the entire TB and intake from an LS1. I think I have tested and checked everything multiple times with no luck. Hardware is MS3 on V3.0 PCB with MS3X card. Behavior: Power up MS3 and sometimes the plunger extends, other times it retracts. It never does what it is suppose to (extend to close the airflow) all the time, or even 4 times in a row. I tried multiple IAC motors. I tried all possible ways of wiring. I tried various step sizes, various start values, various minimum steps. Also tried the different modes always on, moving only, etc. Tested the IAC in a housing and out of the housing. One step further, I can control the GM IAC motor using an arduino and a polulu stepper driver and the motor works exactly as I expect. I'm out of ideas. I have also never been able to come across anyone who says they have a GM IAC working and working reliably. If you do have one working reliably can you please post your settings.

Stereo is up, wow. The bass just blows away the cell phone mic and sounds like distortion, but in person it sounds awesome.

Thank you. I have also never had a stereo system in any of the cars I have owned. This weekend I will be installing one, I have an Alpine head unit, 4x Inifinity Kappa 6.5 components, an MTX terminator dual 12" sub box and a Soundstream Tarantula 5 channel 950 watts RMS amp. I can't wait to hear/feel this system.

Yeah, my wife was most impressed with how much faster it is at 9psi than it was at 3psi. In low gear (powerglide with 3.08 rear gears) I am just a little scared its going to scoot the rear end out. I am only running 245 nittos right now. Fasted car I have owned yet, now I need to learn how to drive it

Got my toggle switch set up so I can switch between pumpgas and E85. Tried it out yesterday. Drove in to town on gas and ran the car down to empty. Pulled in the station and filled up with E85, took 14.5 gallons on spec 16.6 gallon tank. Started the car quickly on gas setting, not letting the fuel pump run any amount of time, then flipped the switch to E85 when it started leaning out. About 2-3 seconds after starting. Worked great. Tuned the car on the 30 mile drive home for E85. Now I have two set of tuned tables that I can switch between. I took the car out and tested the wastegate setting without vacuum reference, 9psi. Short vid:

IIRC, there was a single wire on the L28ET swap that if not connected properly would make it run very rich as you describe. Here is a link to the problem I speak of (pin 9 problem): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92064-need-help-with-testing-procedure-l28et-running-rich/ I remember having this problem when I first fired up my L28ET swap. As stated by others, it is very helpful to have the car running good before the megasquirt conversion.

Fair enough. I have had my share of electrical issues as well.

A properly grounded system will have a negligible voltage drop between megasquirt and the engine block. But given the amount of poorly thought out installs I can see why they recommend using the extra "sensor ground" wire for the sensors. Grounding to the battery as shown in their "no no" picture could have a voltage drop. I will concede that. But I say grounding at the buss bar with this install will be no different than using that extra sensor ground. EDIT: if it is different, then more wires should be connected between the DB37 and the buss bar.

You are fine. I just wanted to mention that the DIYautotune harnesses have a dedicated wire brought out for sensor ground, but they all connect to the same place internally. The other replies were eluding to the sensor ground being different, but in fact it is not different. All grounds on the megasquirt go to the same place ultimately.

I purchased two coolers from silicone intakes. A type 108 to use for the transmission cooler and a type 114 to use as an engine oil cooler. Note that the type 114 maintains the flow of the AN -10 oil cooler lines, while the type 108 has smaller holes connecting the end tanks so it would be a restriction. I also ordered 3 gauges for oil temp, trans temp and cyl head temp. I am curious to have a cyl head temp in addition to the water temp gauge to hopefully give an early indicator if I lose coolant.

You will also notice that the "sensor ground" wire on the DIYautotune harnesses grounds to the same point as the other grounds for MS3. They all go to the ground pins on the DB37 which all connect to the ground plane of the PCB. There is no effective difference in bringing the sensors to this sensor ground wire or just tying all the ground wires from MS3 to a common point and tying all grounds from the engine to the same common point.

Yes, everything grounded to the same spot (engine block) is good. I like the copper bar. You know this already, but the important piece is to make sure all connections to the engine block are electrically clean. So, wherever the battery grounds, the two bolts on the copper bar and anywhere else that other grounds connect need to be clean metal and using dieletric grease is a good idea. If things are grounded to the body, then making sure each ground point is clean and connecting the body to the engine block will make for a real clean system. You are starting with a really good approach using the copper bar. Did I say I liked that

I connected my "PWR" grounds from the LS1 coils to the engine block on a short run of wire to keep them out of the wire loom. I connected the "signal" grounds to the terminal where I ground all of the megasquirt grounds. This terminal is also grounded to the engine block. In affect everything is grounded at the engine block, but the important thing in my mind is not running the coil "PWR" grounds through any of the wiring harness which could allow switching noise to couple into other wires in the harness.

Installed the turbo blanket. Wrapped the hotpipes and downpipe. Recirculated my WG output to the downpipe. Changed the couplers on the universal radiator hoses to silicone with t-bolt clamps. Boost is still 3.5psi. Made a couple runs in the car and everything looks good. No leaks and the exhaust exit in front of the front tire is as quite as my granny's park avenue, haha yeah right. I did some very scientific testing of turbo spool. From an idle, no trans brake, no foot brake, just floor the pedal and 1 mississippi...2 mississippi...boost. That is same result as spooling with the t-brake. Above 20 mph and it is 1 mississippi...boost. I need to fab a cold air intake next. With no hood and the filter setting behind the radiator I am seeing 120 intake temps with ambient of 60. Then 150 intake temps at boost of 3.5psi. The plan was always to have cold air ducting, but it is good to see the high temps that occur behind the radiator to justify it. Once cold air ducting is in place I will turn up to 7psi and tune. I am planning to set at this stage for a month or two and shake out the bugs. I did receive my lingenfelter oil cooler adapter. An oil cooler is the next highest priority on my list. Then smaller projects like PCV, tableswitch input for E85, AN radiator hoses, radiator ducting...... updated clamps: updated coolant bleeder: Recirculated waste gate:

I went to the FAQ section and looked at the old install guide I wrote years ago. I believe you want the dizzy wire pulled up to 12 volts. Using 5 volts will lead to problems I think because of the variations of different diodes that end up in the tach circuit. These potentially drop the voltage too much to trigger the ECU. But, only make one change at a time. So finish verifying that the stim works and that you see the voltage toggling on the dizzy wire. Then if you do not see a good steady tach signal, change your pullup to 12 volts.

That will be a good approach. Use the stim to verify a tach signal on the MS computer. Measure the wire from the dizzy to verify the car wiring. (the voltage will be whatever you pulled up to, sounds like 5 volts on your car)

You might have already mentioned this, but I would put a voltmeter on the wire coming from the dizzy to megasquirt (the one with the pullup resistor). You will be able to watch the voltage and slowly rotate the dizzy. As the dizzy passes each slot on the optical wheel you will see the voltage change. If you go slow, you should be able to see the reading at full voltage (whatever you are pulled up to) and then zero volts and so on as the slots are passing through the opto sensor. If you rotate it fast the voltmeter doesn't have time to respond.

How is the following configured on you v3.0 mainboard? This area gets the tach signal in from the zxt optical dizzy to the megasquirt processor. For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points: Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket, Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink. Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.

Thanks guys. I have a few small things to finish up this week and I might try 7-8psi. Then I will be stuck at that level for a while until I get a larger fuel pump and intercooler installed.

I got one drive in today to test the WG, it is only set at 4psi. However, the wife did not know what to expect so I had her shoot video. Pretty funny. And tree air freshener, haha

OK, put everything back together. Primed oil to the turbo and fired it up. Just let it idle until thermostat opened. Oil feed: Engine View: Start up vid, this was first try at startup after setting for one month. PC680 battery and stock LS1 starter. ASE needs a little more tuning, it almost died once. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQKmjTBH1LE Another vid of idling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYSIDRitC9A Looks like I will try a drive tomorrow and check the base WG setting.

Made a tool to hold the balancer using a couple hardened 1/2 bolts through a large piece of angle. It works great using a clamp to hold it up against the balancer. The end catches the frame rail to allow loosening and final tightening of the balancer bolt. This was my most dreaded job because I didn't have a good way to hold the engine and work the bolt being by myself. I do have one of the pieces of all thread and a large thrust washer for installing the balancer that I made years ago when I swapped from LS1 to 5.3.