mobythevan

Depending on your install you may have three options with low impedance injectors: Use a large wattage low ohm resistor like 6ohm 25 watt in series with each injector to limit current Use PWM (pulse width modulation) feature in megasquirt to limit current Or purchase a peak and hold driver board/box that goes between megasquirt and the injectors to drive them correctly. This is what Matt was referring to that hits them with a large current and then backs off.

Common noise issues: Shield your crank sensor wires to megasquirt. Install a capacitor on 12 volts at your coil/coils. Use resistor spark plugs. Don't run wiring near the coil/coils or plug wires Noise is the most common problem with megasquirt installs.

There are plenty of people who know more and work more with megasquirt and EFI systems. But thanks for the kind words.

I do notice one basic thing, may not matter much. Injectors are usually marked with a positive and negative side. Your schematic is backwards, you should have positive connected to the injector 12 volt and then negative sides connected to the inj1 and inj2 banks.

The schematic is a little hard to read, but it looks like you have things correct as far as I can tell. I don't know EDIS wiring so I didn't look at that part.

Here is my first video of shadow logger. Stick with it until the end and I get a closeup of how the display looks, the text is small. The first part of the video you can't read what is on the screen and you see that this is not laid out for the 10 inch tablet or readability yet. But I am sure Phil is working on changes. I am not known for being loud as you will learn from the video.

Sorry for the delay. I took a couple videos, but wasn't happy with how they turned out. Still working on it.

I have the Acer Iconia A500 tablet, which runs android OS. And yes, the shadow logger only logs raw data to a file. It does not display gauges or graphs right now. EDIT: it does show some realtime info, but not in a gauge format. I will shoot a video so you can see what it looks like.

I had some time over the break to work with the MS3 some more. I finished building it to work on the LS1 engine. I put together the JimStim v1.5 and JimStimx expander board so I could do some testing. I also got the bluetooth module from Phil Tobin (EFIanalytics) and was able to get the shadow logger working with my acer iconia tablet. I did run into some issues. JimStim v1.5 notes: Even though this stim board says it supports LS1 signals for cam and crank, it really doesn't. I found in the msextra forums that when the JimStim firmware was set up the crank signal was made as an evenly spaced 24 tooth signal. The LS1's real crank signal is an uneven waveform and the newer firmwares for both MS2_Extra and MS3 expect the real uneven pattern. Needless to say, I could not get an rpm or sync with the JimStim providing the LS1 signals for cam and crank. I ended up using a basic stamp project board I had laying around to produce my own cam and crank signals and modeled the real uneven pattern of the LS1. This worked and I was able to get sync and test my MS3. Shadow Logger notes: It took me a while to figure out that I had to go into settings and pair the bluetooth module with my tablet before running shadowlogger. Once I did this I was able to take datalogs. I also made an account on EFIanalytics website because when you log with shadow logger it creates a raw file that then gets uploaded to the server and turned into a file that will work with log viewer. I think I am ready to install in the car now. I will need to redo my wiring harness. MS3 uses two DB37 connectors. One has the original signals like MS1/MS2. The other has the 8 seq fuel and 8 seq spark, tach output and the CAM trigger input. If anyone is interested I could make a couple videos showing the MS3 stim setup working and the shadow logger stuff.

I think mine are still powered by 5 volts for MS1 v2.2 or v3.0 boards. Where did you see something about me using 12volts? I will use 12 volts to power them with MS3, but not MS1/MS2. Here is the line from the install guide:

I believe the apps so far are viewers only.

Now that is a funny name

Sounds suspicious from point #2 that you are not getting megatune setup to interface with the EDIS module. If you cannot get the settings in megatune or tunerstudio set correctly for EDIS 36-1 wheel encoder then I think you should start there. I have never worked with EDIS so I can't really help any farther. I think your assumption in point #1 of being in limp home mode is correct.

People claim it is the low voltage and possible spikes from the starter motor. Not sure myself, but I can say that I have witnessed 3 units on different installs that had problems. I don't have enough time on the "fix" to know if the problems are solved for good.

Wanted to follow up on this post since I have also had some new problems with LC-1s lately. Ran across this thread on the forum and I believe this is the issue: To help solve this the LM-1 manual on the bottom of page 9 has instructions to install a relay that cuts power to the unit while the engine is being cranked. I spoke too early when I said out LC-1s were working OK, they are really having a lot of issues with losing settings and calibration during startup of the car.

You guys are talking about solutions other than the module that EFIanalytics sells, right? Does it save that much money to mess with serial->usb->BT instead of buying the available solution at $70?

One thing you can do is disconnect the coil or external ignitor if you have one. A lot of times people end up with the wrong settings that have the coil powered constantly while they are trying to make sure basics are working like tps, sensors, fuel pump. Then the ignitor burns up. I don't think this is an issue with newer boards that use the current limiting FETs, but it is easy to do.

I didn't realize it was that serious of an issue. Thanks for stepping in and letting him know.

I cannot get the EFI analytics website to work to order the tested bluetooth module? I haven't emailed Phil yet, but curious if anyone else ordered this through the website.

From my experience, installing filter capacitors usually works best to get rid of spikes like you show in the scope plot. If you look at the frequency that spikes occur you can then use online calculators to size the capacitors correctly.

I worked on the car a bit over the weekend and I think I came up with a plan for this winter. Right now the car only needs a muffler installed to be driven with MS1 running the engine and no turbo. I had already put a downpipe on the car so I could keep it running without the turbo, but no muffler. Sitting on the bench I have the S475 turbo, JGS wasteagate, new BOV, second fuel pump with dual fittings and MS3 computer, but none of these are installed. So I think my plan will set up in three stages: 1. Put a muffler on it and drive it a couple days to work to see how everything works on the open road. The car has never been driven more than a couple miles at a time. 2. Then, put MS3 on the car and drive it some more to get tune working and colds start, IAC, etc. 3. Take the car down to install the new turbo and wastegate. At this time I need to re-build my hot piping with stainless and good flex joints that won't come apart. I also need to change my BOV and add the dual fuel pump setup. One other thing is that I need to put adjustable rear links on my 8.8 setup. I have no idea at this time what to do for exhaust with the turbo, that is one unknown. My current downpipe is 4". Over the weekend I worked on two leaks. One was leaking from the bypass plate above the oil filter where I had tapped for turbo oil feed. The other leak is the speedo bullet on the powerglide. Looks like I have the old style bullet with only an o-ring seal and nothing on the speedo gear. So I ordered a new style with a seal on the gear as well. Just another data point, this whole time I have kept my PC680 battery on a float charger and it still seems to work great.

Excellent! Thanks for the heads up Matt. I have been waiting for this and hoping it leads to a tuner product in the future for android OS. I have an Acer Iconia tablet that I have been waiting to try it on.

Also take a look at the link from Matt Cramer in the megasquirt FAQ section that talks about how to tune idle.

Take the coil wire itself and put a spark plug in the end and ground it to the engine block. Check for it to spark. Once in a great while the dizzy will be so far out of timing that it is too far from any post so the sopark will not jump the gap when the coil fires and it seems like there is no spark. Eliminating the cap and rotor from the equation by using a spark plug directly from the coil you can make sure you rule out this as a possibility.

Good progress. Now you really need to put a timing light on the engine and see where the spark is during cranking.