mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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Over the weekend I upgraded my Talon to HiRes 10e code so that I could use target AFR tables with my larger 850c injectors. It works great, just wanted to let everyone know. If you have large injectors try it out, it is also based on 029y4 code so it should have all the same features and fixes. Keep in mind that you lose a couple things by going to hi res code, like PWM. I have always used dropping resistors, so it didn't matter to me.
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Did you already look through the spark tables people have put up in the map sharing sticky? Some of them are in jpeg format so you don't have to download and open msq files.
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Looks like the two files you attached are VE tables, not the spark tables.
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The 8.8 install is completed.
More pics from the weekend:
Went back through the wiring and combined the harnesses
Interior, still stock
Transmission cooler electric fan, since I have the trans brake
8.8 installed, watts link, rear is hanging all the way down in these pictures
245/50R16 Drag Radials for testing purposes
300zx NA wheels
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The sticky lists the wiring color codes for both sides of the harness to the CAS, because they are different on each side.
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I've always had issues on new installs that if the map isn't right, and you flood the plugs, it's best to start with new plugs.
I just want to second this, I have seen it many times. But it only does good to go to new plugs once you have fixed the problem with too much fuel.
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I didn't ask my question correctly, I was curious if it was going rich right before the sparks started dropping. Looks like it was holding at ~12 up to the spark drop.
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Just curious, what was the AFR when this was happening around 5psi boost? Did it go extremely rich where it was dropping spark?
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Does anyone know which springs or combinations of the four springs for which boost settings on the cheapo 60mm wastegates? I know this will be an approximation because the preload is also adjustable.
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Passenger side mounting of the alternator. I used a timing belt idler pulley from my bucket of parts. I think it cam off my Camry. It is wider than I needed, but it works good as the proof of concept.
Another view of the alt mounting.
Upper IC pipe.
FMIC, I have some concerns with this, but I'll see how it works.
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I got the 8.8 in the car. Still have to finish the watts link and make the lower arms adjustable. I dropped the driveshaft pieces off today to get it shortened.
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A couple new pics for you guys. Got the turbo mounted on the drivers side. Got my new fuel rails and injectors installed. Switched to truck round coils becuase they mount higher on the valve covers for clearance with manifolds flipped upside down. Also used two driver side valve covers, easier crank vent that way. Still have to finish putting the wire harness in loom, but its getting there. Notice that I moved the relay box back behind the strut tower.
4 inch downpipe is in there. Started the FMIC piping. I removed the stock fuel lines and vent line. I'll run new ones now on the pssgr side of the car now.
woo hoo, starting to get excited. All of the sudden I feel like I'm on the downhill slope. :yay:
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Kinda sounds like an old VW bug engine
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I put a different rectifier in my LS1 alternator so it doesn't use the red wire from the PCM anymore. You can find the instructions and part number over on v8rx7forum.com
Works great.
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I think it would work better as a sticky if someone made a new post with a descriptive title like "how to wire MSD ignition to MS" or something like that and then include the link to the picture. You can still give credit to the original poster if you want.
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The magamanual contains all the info for the DB37 pinout.
Here is the link
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Wow, that feature comparison chart is cool. I hadn't seen that before. I haven't done any kind of work with MS2 yet.
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What I was saying is that I just purchased a module (gm hei) that has a built in rev limiter and pai over 90 for it..
I see now. Everyone has to go through the learning curve. I wish there were more local people to help out (from hybridz), but I think Prox has been the only person I have helped around here. Its more fun to actually meet people and see their projects.
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Another thing that is great is to use the stim board and play with some of these parameters. Set up the code as a 4, 6, and then 8 cylinder and see how different settings work with the stim board providing the inputs.
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You are over thinking it, which I think is common for most people starting with megasquirt.
A great way to start is just to set up megatune and the correct code version on your PC, don't even connect the megasquirt, then browse through all the menus and features in megatune. Use the F1 key to learn about the features.
Then load an msq file from someone that has a similar setup so your engine will start. Turn off accelleration enrichment and tune your VE table using a wideband. Then turn acceleration enrichment back on.
Then over time start to learn about tuning after start enrichment, warmup enrichement, spark table, using target AFR tables, using autotune, etc
The most basic things you need to know going into tuning for the first time are:
1. What AFRs do I want as I tune all parts of my VE table
2. What spark timing do I want in the spark table
BTW, once you browse through all the options in megatune you will answer some of your own questions, like the rev limiter.
Here is something: You set the number of cylinders your engine has in the constants tuning page. You set the rev limit in the rev limiter page. So engine is 8 cylinder, rev limit 6000. Or engine is 4 cylinder, rev limit is still 6000. Don't worry about math, just enter the parameters you want in the tuning pages. Save yourself some gray hairs in the beginning. You can worry later when you try to tune your spark table as close to detonation as you can get.
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I would recommend using the latest stable release which IIRC is 029y4 or 029y5 of the MSnS code.
under "codebase and output functions"
The "distributor(msns)" mode would be set to "msns"
the reset of those modes would be set to off.
"FIDLE function" would be set to "Spark Output A"
If you can, post screenshots of your settings for the codebase and functions, also of your spark setup. That will allow a lot more people to help you out here on the forum.
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OK, slow down a minute so I can keep up
1. The jumper for idl to fidle is on the relay board. So you don't need it unless you are using a relay board.
2. The XG1, XG2, diode stuff is all for the TACH input to MS. If you are seeing the correct rpm in megatune when you crank(approximately 200-300rpm), then your TACH input stuff is set up correctly.
3. HEI module only needs to be grounded to the Chassis.
Put a test light on the FIDLE wire at the HEI module and see if it pulses when you crank the engine. You can also put the test light on the coil negative terminal while cranking and see if it pulses.
Maybe it is time to look at your settings in megasquirt. Did you set it up to use FIDLE output as the spark control, maybe you accidentally set it to use a different output for spark control?
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i have been reading that really i dont need the hei module, is this true,
If you had a v3.0 board with a VB921 to drive the coil that would be true, but you have a v2.2 board, so you don't have a coil driver. You need an HEI module or some other coil driver.
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Yes, 1K to vref is fine.
But you did not say in that response if you have 12 volt power to the coil positive terminal when the key is cranking and running.
noob ? cannot find from searching
in MegaSquirt
Posted
If you are ordering from DIYautotune just send them an email. Give them 24 hours to get back to you. Remember that they are only a couple guys and they try to read several different forums on top of just selling stuff. I can only imagine how many emails they get per day. Once the order is placed there shipping is second to none.