mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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This one seems like it would really be scary to drive
EDIT: it was removed from youtube, sorry. It was the 3000hp merlin 55 chevy
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Megasquirt uses a potentiometer type TPS, not a switch type. Just measure it with a multimeter. Measure reistance and turn the TPS to see if it is a potentiometer(variable resistor). You can get one of those really cheap multi meters from harbor freight for $1.99 or $3.99
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What does it do when it reaches 138 degrees? Does it start to sputter, does idle continually get slower then it dies? Does it start to miss?
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Another thing, a very important one actually. The "Z car expert" over here never told me were the fU(# the coolant sensor is located. My car has my pocket broke, it really is turning me crazy but I really don't want to get rid of it, I wanna fix it but I still don't know that much of Z cars. I'm an ex-Honda guy.
I can understand the frustration, but take some time to look around this website. You posted in the megasquirt forum, but you have a stock 300z as far as I can tell(by researching your other posts). I don't know where the coolant sensor is located on a 300z, you might want to ask in a different area of the forum. If you give more details about the car it is easier to answer your questions.
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Are you running megasquirt? If so check the coolant reading in Megatune, then fix wiring or replace the sensor. If your running stock ECU turbo engine, then replace the CHTS. What year and type of motor is it? turbo or non-turbo?
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Yes, you can. If you are talking about the 12v to the dizzy for the CAS, then yes that will work fine. If you are talking about 12v for the coil then use the fuel pump 12v.
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I've had that happen when I forgot to connect the MAP sensor vacuum line.
Also when the coolant temp sensor wasn't connected (so it reads -40 in megatune)
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Do you have any of the install parts with it? I remember using two blocks that go over the top and then two long bolts on each block that go back down into the intake to hold it on. It worked fine for me but was a little awkward on the mounting.
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what I"m really trying to learn is how the opening time for a peak/hold injector is affected if a current limiting resistor is used instead of the MS PWM
Sounds like an easy experminet that z-ya could run if you ask him nice enough
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I went ahead and bought the Knocksense module for $60 to allow me to interface with the LS1 knock sensors. You could find out if it will work to interface to the Nissan sensor.
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Hmmmmm.... I thought you were suppose to use Fixed dwell and "minimum for HEI4".
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I hate to ask obvious questions, but did you ckeck with a timing light to verify timing matches the table? If so then you should be OK.
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Everyone has their preferences, but I say install it and worse case it doesn't help you figure anything out. It has the potential to help with every part of the tuning that deals with air and fuel.
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You've got a wideband but your trying to troubleshoot without it installed?
Install it and see if your going lean during the hesitations.
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If it spools the turbo too early, wouldn't that be a sign of not enough ignition advance? Not sure what ignition setup you are running but I would check that out.
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I am runningLS1 coils using wasted spark on my V8 5.3 LSx engine using megasquirt. Megasquirt uses a 2222 transistor to drive a pair of LS1 coils, works great. I used dwell settings from Z-ya. You can look at the LS1 install thread for my wasted spark setup if it helps.
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If you were going to upgrade code you might as well go to the newest stable release. Last time I looked that was like 029y4 or similar. You may need to re-tune because of bugs that were fixed in the code equations. Just go through every menu and check over every setting when you upgrade and you should be good. There are a lot of neat features in the newest code that give many more options for cold start tuning, accel tuning and many other things.
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The one that looks like the stock 280zx TPS connector is the switch type. The pigtail is the potentiometer(variable resistor) that should be connected to MS. The wiring color codes are in the install sticky.
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sure, that is what the target AFR tables are for. Run closed loop with wideband once you are warmed up enough.
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that's OK, the Bugatti will hold the ugly record forever
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This gets my car started with very slight push on the throttle, and it will idle from a cold start after that.
I guess whatever works for everybody, but ASE is what should be tuned to get the car to idle after cold starts. Then you don't have to push the pedal to start it. I can't say much because I have never tuned ASE on my talon so it does the old start and die routine.
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You should not be messing with the gas pedal at all just to get the car started. You have three things to mess with to get it to start and idle.
Fuel (either adjust VE table at idle or adjust required fuel)
TB butterfly (adjust with idle screw)
Ignition Timing (check during cranking with injectors unplugged)
You need airflow to start and idle, so open up the butterfly with the idle screw. Go ahead and open it a bunch you can always adjust idle back down when it starts.
Now are you still flooding? Then take away fuel during cranking/idle area of VE.
It is very common for the engine to run lean after it starts up because it is cold and needs warmup enrichment. You need to adjust that to fix your lean problem and you need to adjust the TB butterfly to fix your flooding startup.
Those are two of the most basic tuning issues and are covered in the tuning manual. If you had a wideband on the car you would be able to see how it is leaning out after it starts.
I swear if I can't get this thing running right soon it is back to SUs for me!!!!! I have had it! The ironic thing is that I am supposed to be writing an article for Nissan Sport Magazine about the conversion and right now it is a very short article - "Don't do it!!!!"I think you should add to the article: "Don't do it, its too hard"
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There are ways to mess up the flash in the processor chip so that you are no longer able to load firmware. There is a bootable section that is always loaded from Bowling/Grippo using a socket programmer for the 68HC processor chip. I am not saying that is what happened, just something fo you to check in to since it won't boot.
If it happens you have to either send the chip back to someone with the socket programmer, or buy another processor. I thought about buying one of the programmers for $50, but I never corrupted the boot section of the code on a chip yet.
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LoL.. he said he clocked me going 79 but he couldnt catch up
And then you told him: "thank goodness, cause I know I was over 95 at one point"
Man I pulled into the right lane on I-25 a few weeks back and hit boost in a construction zone because everyone was going slow in the left lane. I was up to just about 70 in a 45 when I saw the cop setting there with his radar pointed right at all of us. Apparently he couldn't read my speed with so many cars around, I slowed down quick. He never followed me so I said, whewww.
Stanza tb instead of 240sx?
in MegaSquirt
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It will do both depending on which terminals you measure between.
There are 3 terminals on a potentiometer. The outer two will show a resistance that never changes. The middle and one end will show a resistance that increases as you move the TPS. The middle and the other end will show a resistance that decreases as you move the TPS.