mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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wheels of fire by manowar
probably crash if I listened to that stuff everytime I went out to drive.
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In Post #4, Z-YA, I think, means that you CAN'T run Alternating, "1-squirt", on MS.
Yeah, that could be. I wasn't trying to discredit his post, but just make sure I understood the issue.
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This is text from the manual, so it looks like the main concern for dropping resistors is increasing opening time because the current is reduced.
Several people reported that resistors do NOT result in significantly longer opening times, or any other troublesome effects, so this is a good solution for many installs. -
Are you the stock injectors you are using low impedance or high impedance? Since it is NA engine I don't want to assume anything.
I am just re-iterating this stuff you may know it already:
If you use high impedance injectors then follow directions below.
If you use low impedance injectors with dropping resistors then follow directions below.
If however you are using low impedance with no dropping resistors then follow the procedure in the megamanual to determine the values for PWM% and time threshold. The values you list for those two did not make sense to me, but I have never run in PWM mode, I always disable it according to the quote below because I always use dropping resistors or high impedance injectors.
If you use resistors that limit injector current to less than 2 amps, you can disable the PWM mode (by setting PWM% to 100%, and time threshold to 25.4msec) and treat the system as high-impedance. -
cygnus, thanks for the update from the manual. It appears that alternating 2 squirts is acceptable. That is what I was using and had put in the sticky so I just wanted to make sure and I wanted someone else to verify since I can't check my own work.
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Yeah, it seems like its time to open the MS case and see if power makes it in to the voltage regulator. You'll have to look at the schematics and figure out which pin to probe. The follow back to the DB37 connector and then back across the cable to the relay board. Just have to check everything, I said check not replace
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I just scanned that real quick, but everything else aside if you are able to unplug the map sensor and the car runs better then....
Unplugging the map sensor tells the computer the same thing as having full throttle. That means the computer will put in more fuel, so if more fuel makes it run better then you could have low fuel pressure at the rail, bad fuel pump, clogged injectors. Sounds like something with the fuel pump since you were unplugging stuff, measure the voltage at the pump. Maybe you unplugged and plugged a connection to the pump and now it is not making good contact??
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Forrest,
No one that has actually seen my hack work should reply to this thread
Its too bad the car got crashed, but I would have done the same thing in time.
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You can't run alternating on a 6 cylinder with MS.
Now I'm lost because I always ran alternating on my L28et. It idled much better with alternating. The installation guide shows to use alternating. I am not saying it is right, but if we can't do it should an update be made? I remember discussions about fuel rail pressure pulsation and injector size trade off, but no one ever said it couldn't be used.
What would happen if all the people using my inital values had everything else the same, but used simultaneous instead of alternating? Would that account for everyone saying it is really rich because with alternating I had more of the time used up during opeining and closing so not much gas. But now with simultaneous they spend more time with the injector just open so its rich? Just rambling, but run through the reasoning so I can figure out what makes sense.
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Here are the pics of the trigger wheel mounting, also the oil plug and superjection setup. Even though the trigger wheel is smaller than the front supercharger pulley I have a modified escort VR sensor that will fit right down to the trigger wheel. I'll get a couple more pics when that is mounted.
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Everything is in place. I finished machining my SC pulley spacer today so the 36-1 trigger wheel fits on the crank. I'll get some pictures of it and some video of it running. Just a few small things to finish up and I will fire it again on the test stand. I test fired it back around Chirstmas with a carb and HEI dizzy. Since then I have been collecting the final parts, fuel injectors, rails, FPR, TPS, pigtails, etc to finish the throttle body injection and EDIS system. I have four 1600cc injectors on it, a 60gallon per hour pump(which is just barely going to make it), 950cfm throttle body. I also have water injection kit for it, but I will install that after the MS/EDIS is working.
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There are some fuel maps listed in the map sharing sticky for different engine configurations.
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I'll take a stab at answering some of those questions:
pin 24 is that tach input signal to MS, it typically goes to the NEG coil terminal and the shield would go to ground.
If pin 36 is labeled coil then it would be used to fire your coil. Then you would not need your ignition module on the side of the Dizzy anymore.
A lot of times a non-heated O2 sensor will not work at idle/low rpm because it does not stay hot enough, that is the main reason to use a heated O2.
The FIDLE logic will provide 12 volts while the engine is cold to enable a FIDLE valve. Once the engine warms up then it would go to ground. If you have the stock AAR valve on your engine then just connect that to ignition switched 12 volts, you don't need to connect it to the MS at all.
Not sure what you are asking about the fan control wire.
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Weird huh! even look at the headlight bucket and the seperation distance from the hood!
same ex-girlfriend???
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Nelson sent me another one:
Here's a picture from when a lady pulled into me a couple years back of my 260 if you wanna post it too. Apparently God has an issue with me having a clean passenger side fenderThis one cost insurance $3500 and they threatened to throw my Z to the dogs until I showed them insurance verification that it (at the time) had less than 100k miles on it. I lost a job because I wasn't willing to come back to Louisiana without my Z.
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Here was my old turbo 240z that Nelson bought. He sent me the photo today after I saw this thread and hit him up. It happened around Nov of last year.
His email said something like this:
Just tell em I had a date with a brick column (brakes locked up on sh@tty tires but that doesn't excuse anything) -
I was surprised it sat on craigslist and apparently no one went to look at it because the guy was easy to talk down. His add stated that it needed "significant engine work", but that shouldn't discourage any tuners. Maybe they thought it was modified and fried out by teenagers or something?? I am hoping to put it on the road in stock form as my new daily and then crank up the Talon to ~400hp with new cams, clutch and 25psi boost. But I am so busy for the next 3 months that I don't know which end is up.
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Some of you guys might remember that I went to look at an alltrac last summer for really cheap, but it was sold already. This one came up on craigslist and no one bought it for over a week, so I picked it up. The engine is knocking, but runs. I drove it up on the trailer and the knock doesn't sound too bad yet, but will defenitely need to be fixed ASAP. It is 100% stock, 182K miles, but just had engine rebuilt (uh huh) and turbo rebuilt, new clutch. We'll see if that is true, the guy was middle aged and seemed really nice so maybe it is. For $800 I had to pick it up for another daily driver at the least.
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If the MAP and RPM have crazy up and down spikes, but the car is running just fine with out misses or odd behaviour, then the interference would seem to be in the serial communication between MS and the laptop. Maybe that is what you determined already. I just wanted to know more when I read the crazy spikes on so many critical signals.
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the rule of thumb is that the human eye can see 30hz and slower oscillations. If it can be set as slow as 5-6hz like you say I would start there, that is only 5-6 cycles per second, very easy to see when the modulation occurs.
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I haven't seen a wastegate that opens and shuts faster than my eye can see when I am making a full throttle run through 3rd and 4th gear??
Full boost is on for quite some time, seconds. Wouldn't the LED work in this case. Even if the wastegate opens and shuts during full boost portin, it will not cycle that fast.
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470 or 330 ohm woud be good
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Did you get a chance to try using an LED to indicate when the FET switches on/off? I would do that and not even hook up the solenoid/valve. Put the LED in place of the solenoid with a resistor to limit current. So X12 to resistor, otherside resistor to band on LED, other side LED to 12 volts.
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I noticed in a couple recent threads that people are looking for input on the reliability of the v2.2 board. I just wanted talk about my experience so far since all I have used is the 2.2 board in all the installs I have completed or helped with. My current daily driver has logged 15K miles with v2. board and no problems (not a single reset or loss of program, no weird behaviour). That car is daily driven for over a year now, and also driven to the drag strip and thrashed. I run 18psi boost on that setup so it is pretty mild. The only problem with that setup in 15K miles has been the IAT sensor failing around 8K miles. I had another thread about that.
Now, on the flip side I have personally seen one problematic install. Resets all the time, just a mess. Just so happens that this board was not soldered by me, instead the guy that owns the car wanted to solder it himself to learn how, he had never soldered before
. The last update was that after reflowing and touching up his solder job there have been no more resets.I have not seen any reliabilty issues with v2.2 except the soldering, and the list of cars I have worked on to come to that conclusion:
My 240z that I sold to Nelson L28et (Nelson drove it 1500 miles back to LA, I think I forgot to tell him I did all the work
)Eagle Talon (daily driver)
37 chevy 350sbc TPI
Prox's z car (daily driver??)
77 chevy 1/2 ton with 350sbc TPI (Daily driver)
34 Pontiac 454 with EDIS (only running on test stand right now)
Installs in Progress:
67 Mustang 302 (first v3 board install)
I know people have problems, so this was just my experience FWIW
. The last update was that after reflowing and touching up his solder job there have been no more resets.
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Nelson Racing Engines
in Non Tech Board
Posted
huh?
Did it originally show under the car or something.