mobythevan

no, these are for the IAT and coolant temp sensors. In the MS manual they say these sensors use 3/8 NPT. I also wanted to use them on my fuel sump.

I've found a few places that have aluminum, but I am looking for more sources that sell female 3/8" NPT weld-in bungs that are steel. I need some for the sensors with MegaSquirt and also for my fuel tank sump.

When you install an IC it is going to restrict the air flow by some amount. That will cause lower pressure after the IC. You boost gauge likely reads from the intake manifold(after the IC), but the turbo wastegate gets its signal from before the IC(the compressor housing) if that part of your setup is still stock. So installing an IC and not changing the wastegate signal will result in lower boost in the intake manifold. The amount of drop would be affected by the quality of IC. Better IC, less drop. Somebody else chime in if I am off base here.

You need a boost controller to control the wastgate opening. Just modding the pop off valve will allow you to run more boost, but now you need a way to control the wastegate to get it accomplished.

When I was fixing the last bug with my cranking timing I had also changed the pullup resistor on the trigger input to MSS to be a 1K resistor. I forgot about this until today when I was reading about an install on zcar.com, so I fixed the install guide schematics to reflect this. It is a good idea to use the 1K pullup instead of the 2K I had listed in the schematic before. The reason is because during cranking the voltage drops and the trigger pulse may not be as clean. That is it, BTW everything is still working good. The install guide is up to date now and Tony D. is working on using the 81 CAS with MSS. When he gets that to work I will add the specific info into the install guide. I also added a few sentences to explain that I use the trigger circuit just like the assemble guide tells you to build it for use with the stimulator board. If you have assembled MS then you know what I mean. The install guide says to short out diode D8 and the jumper XG1 to XG2. I realized this could be an area of confusion for some people, so I wanted to clear that up.

Now your really going to know how bad I am, because I put a wood stove in the garage the beginning of last winter. I am making progress, its just the real slow type.

I bought the first z car to put a V8 in and now it is totally stripped down and in the middle of floor pan replacement. It has been setting on the stands for a year and a half and neither the car nor the stands have been moved in that time. That one was going together too quickly (ha) so I bought a second z car which I actually got to drive about 10 times in the year I have owned it. But now it is on stands next to the other one getting various things repaired. I am always racing the two in my mind, yeah that one is turbo blah blah blah, and this one is twin turbo blah blah blah. Actually if I had someone else over we could set in them both and race each other I hate to admit that reading the questions in the other post hit close to home. I have 2 sets of fiberglass body parts, rocker panel replacements, and zed floor pans stuck in the rafters of my garage. An LSD that I haven't installed in any car yet and I can't remember how long ago I bought that. A transmission that I had shipped across the US and got lost by UPS. After it arrived I ordered a rebuild kit and then neatly piled that tranny and rebuild kit in my garage next to the JTR kit to never be touched again. The best advice I ever took was from Pete's site: don't build the engine for the V8 car before the car is ready, or something like that. Instead, I just decided to do another z car project in between replacing the two floor pans in the first car. And for anyone wondering, the V8 car always wins the races, but I think its the driver.....

I remembered putting up some info about this in an older thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26552&highlight=240sx Have fun. I am just getting ready to mount mine up and port the intake.

One option is for you to run the MegaSquirt'nSpark code on your MS hardware. You lose fast idle control, but you gain ignition control. That is what I am running. It gives you a 2 dimiensional table to set up your ignition. The table is based off of RPM and manifold pressure. I know your setup is not turbo, but in a turbo car this allows you to retard timing as boost goes up. So it also saves turbo people from spending bucks on a Boost Timing Retard module. I don't know anything about the other variants of ignition control for MS like MegaSpark, MegaJolt, etc. I know that if you run dual table code then you cannot use MegaSquirt'nSpark, because it uses the second table for the ignition control(if memory serves). But I don't think very many people use dual table code.

You should be in good shape since you have the dropping resistor pack on your car. I forgot the NA cars had that. My turbo did not have it so I built one. Yeah, I wasn't sure what is involved in buying from Canada and shipping there.

My engine is the 280zx turbo. It has low impedance injectors(stock). I installed a dropping resistor pack like the MS manual describes, I didn't want to get into the flyback board and PWM just to keep my setup simple. Someone else will have to answer your question on stock NA injectors, I am not 100% sure that they are low impedance, but they should be. That is true, but I think you will find that digi-key prices are better than radio shack type stores. When I put in my order at digi-key a couple resistors were backordered. I just took them off the digi-key order and bought them locally. Otherwise the backorder can take months. So I received the partial kit and digi-key parts within a week or so.

A couple weeks ago turbo240z (I think thats right) put up a couple basic timing maps for the L28 engine. I just based mine of that to get started. I did take a look at the stock curve before removing the stock ECU, so I'll try to get close to that as I go further along.

I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out. Ha, I wondered why pamos replied the way he did about opinions. Not that anything is wrong with your sig, but it just didn't make sense to me.

I just wanted to reply to this because the truth should be known. 10 months ago my plan was to build a V8 240z with a carb'd 400hp small block chevy. I didn't know anything really about turbos or EFI. Then things changed by chance because I bought another 240z and happened onto a turbo L28 in the junkyard. In the last 10 months I did the turbo L28 swap and now installed megasquirt. The reason I got it to work was with the help of this group and countless hours of reading posts, FAQs, and user groups. I can't tell you guys how much I have learned about turbo engines and EFI. Like several other people have said, you don't have to know all of this to jump in and try it. You will learn the rest along the way. The forum is pretty funny because it adds the little title based on number of posts. So Jason is just a junior member and I'm senior. And the secret is I don't really know anything, don't tell anyone.

Boyd, those pictures are great. I don't think I have had that many bottles stacked on my car yet, but there is always hope. datsunlover, your questions don't annoy me. I wouldn't have spent the time to write up the install document if I didn't want people to ask questions. I am not trying to sidestep your questions but make sure you look at this link for ordering http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/bom.htm It has the easiest to follow instructions on ordering everything you need to build the MS unit. Also, go to the megasquirt FAQ website and download the MegaManual. http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/MS%20FAQ.htm Read through the manual sections about the sensors. It gives the part numbers for the GM sensors that you can use for coolant, intake air temp, oxygen sensor. Then you can price out those parts. If you still don't find what you need in those two links let me know.

I'll answer the pricing question. Typical install runs $200 to $300 depending on whether or not you buy the stimulator and relay boards. Price also varies a little depending on the sensors that you run. BTW, 20 percent of that goes directly to me because I own stock in MegaSquirt. I would have to say that the most confusing thing is figuring out how to order the parts. There is no spark kit. You just build megasquirt then download new code to it. I have to go look back through the order process to answer the rest of your question, I'll get back to you on that. As for pamos, I realize that I push megasquirt a lot. I have been accused of thinking it is the best thing since sliced bread. Why do I like it so much??? Same reason everyone else does, its cheap. Its a trade off of price versus functions. It does not provide sequential injection or knock detection or coil on spark plug ignition or wideband oxygen sensor, but if you get a computer that does your in the $1500 price range. But it provides a lot of functions and will teach you a lot about tuning and EFI. I won't get into a grade school argument with anyone, there are plenty of other forums for that on the net. You want some serious answers, ask me some serious questions. You want pictures of MS installed? It is an aluminum box with a cable coming out one end. The official MS website has pictures of the board where you can see the resistors, capacitors and processor. What exactly do you want to know about isntalling it?? I'll dare you to ask intelligent questions and try to learn.

Great, I think I'm in business then. And I thought that flywheel was going to go to waste. The actual 240mm flywheel with the 9 bolts for the pressure plate is hard to find around here.

I found another post from jt240z and he had verified that both 240mm flywheels have the same pin locations and bolt hole pattern, just that the truck flywheel didn't have the middle 3 pressure plate bolts and didn't have the recessed ring around the friction area. Based on that and Bayarea's setup I am going to go ahead and use the 9 bolt pressure plate with the truck flywheel. I am sure that I have the throw out collar for the T-5, I will get a new pp with the clutch kit. The only thing I don't know for sure is which fork I have. I'll just put it together and if it doesn't work I'll look for a fork from the T-5 setup.

I remember posts where the stock fork bent under the higher pressure of a racing type pressure plate. Have you had a chance yet to make sure the fork didn't bend?

So in your case you just didn't use the extra 3 bolts on the pressure plate? If yes, then that answers one question that the 9 bolt pressure plate has the same bolt holes and locating pins to work on a 6 bolt hole truck type flywheel.

After going to several junkyards and not finding a 240mm flywheel 9 bolt pp for my car it was obvious that 240mm flywheels with a 6 bolt pressure plate are very common and cheap. I actually have one that I had bought a while back. One junkyard talked to me for a while and said that the 6 bolt 240mm flywheel came in pickups, pathfinders, etc. They also said that this flywheel is listed as a service replacement for 280zx turbo cars. So that brings up several questions. If I buy a pressure plate and clutch to use one of these more common 240mm flywheels on my T-5 tranny to L28 combo, what clutch fork and throwout bearing sleeve would I use? I am not familiar with the trannies that came in trucks. I wonder what Nissan used if this really was a service replacement flywheel? Also, would it be cheap or easy to just have the shop machine the other 3 bolt holes to use the 9 bolt pp. This assumes that the locating pins and other 6 bolt holes align. Or just don't use the other three bolts? I wish I had a pressure plate to check this out. The 240mm flywheel with 6 pp bolts probably weighes more because it was intended for truck applications, that doesn't bother me right now.

Yes, I used the stock 83 turbo distributor with the CAS inside. Just put a pullup resistor on one wire and use it for the trigger to MSS.

For a general description of megasquirt check my install guide in the turbo section of the forum, that should give you some more background on MS(MegaSquirt) and MSS(MegaSquirt'nSpark).

I was having a problem with my cranking timing being off by 20 degrees. The fix for the problem was to uncheck the invert box in trigger and cranking settings. I fixed the instructions in the install guide to reflect this. Now my timing is working correctly. I haven't got any further in the tuning because I wanted to solve this problem first. I have to mount my TPS and IAT sensor and then I can start the real tuning. So I still haven't run my engine over 1200 rpm with MSS, but everything seems to be working great. BTW, if you guys want any particular info added to the install guide or anything changed around just let me know. Bryan aka mobythevan

It depends on the signal from the stock computer, but if it is the wrong plarity it would be easy to invert it. At the moment I think it would work to replace the ignitor transistor with the HEI module. If I had the old setup with stock computer still in the car I would try it out, but its too late for that.