mobythevan

ewww, holy cow, I only used the EFI harness that goes from the ECU to the engine sensors and injectors. Don't mess with that other stuff, just keep your 240z chassis harness and splice the wires you need for example the fuel pump. My 240z had the extra electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock so I already had wires run to the back for my electric pump. I just went through the 240z schematic and figured out where to tie in for the electric pump wires. Of course I used the turbo fuel pump. I did not use any of the fusible links, I just added my own little fuse block for the ECU, EFI and fuel pump relay power.

dissapointing from an engineering standpoint.

I did the install in my 73 240z last year and it went smooth, only have to connect a handfull of wires. Use the turbo EFI wiring harness and then connect in the few signals according to the wiring chart in the turbo swap FAQ. One for fuel pump relay, one for switched power to ECU, couple for ECU power, start signal hooked to starter solenoid wire so ECU only gets voltage during cranking otherwise you will run really rich all the time. Its about 7 wires. Ground the inhibit so it will start. Notice there are two YW wires in the same connector, so get the right one for the coil/ignitor. Did you guys see this in the turbo swap FAQ, if not pass on the info to the next guy. Good luck. Your BW wire on the 240z is switched 12volts. As mentioned your starter solenoid wire is only on during cranking for the start signal back to the ECU. let me know if you have more questions. You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page. The wires are as follows: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive Plug 2=Y start signal (+) GL ground for inhibitor switch YW speed sensor (not necessary) Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) B fuel pump ground if using modulator Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator W not used Y not used BW ignition signal (+)

I knew I remembered sleeperz experimenting with two pumps, he encountered some issues though. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21168&highlight=check

not trying to beat you up, but there is no BOV(blow off valve) on the stock turbo. The is a pop off valve which is the safety valve to protect overboosting if the wastegate on the turbo malfunctions. If the wastegate is working correctly then it controls boost, but if carbon builds up the or the vacuum pod fails then the wastegate may stay closed and build too much boost, that is where the pop off valve is a backup. Starting from the back of the intake near the firewall you have the EGR valve, then you have the pop off valve (it has 1inch pipe threads into the intake manifold). IF you are going to add a boost controller and raise your boost then you need to modify the pop off valve or plug the hole, otherwise it will open around 9-10psi IIRC. The FICD or HICD is what I thought my manual said, this raises vacuum when the AC is turned on. IF you don't have AC then you can plug it. The air regulator lets extra air in for cold start idle. As the engine warms up this closes. You'll always want that to get the idle decent. I don't know exactly how the AAC works?????? But the ECU controls it through the VCM (vacuum modulator). Good Luck.

I bought the miller type with slightly larger viewing window, harbor freight has a helmet with the same lens package. I think it runs around $139 at harbor freight. The miller type cost me $169 new. I am very happy with the helmet and it has been a pleasure to weld ever since I bought it.

You guys can't believe the difference in throttle response that losing the AFM and adding the 60mm TB has made. I did both at the same time so I can't say which was the bigger factor, but it is like having a new engine in the z car. Revs much faster in 1st gear and the low rpm power seems much better to me, seat of the pants of course. I am very happy with all of the upgrades so far. Can't wait to get things settled in a see the Gtech results. I have to come up with money for a real clutch before that can happen. In the mean time I will finish up tuning and intercooler install.

http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/ From Bowling and Grippo. This will be available as a standalone unit if you do not want to buy ultra megasquirt. It has the potential to be a very accurate tuning tool and I'm sure it will be reasonably priced.

I replaced the sample pics in the install guide with actual pictures of my settings before tuning. These should be in the ballpark, but this is based on my engine and everyone elses will vary based on setup. BTW, I ordered the tech edge wideband meter today. Real tuning shouldn't be far down the road.

Yep, that what I remember. R200 datsun inner stub axles will work on clutch LSD but not VLSD. That also means 280zxt CV shafts slide into the clutch LSD and not VLSD. I have clutch LSD. Right now I am only using u-jointed halfshafts. I am way behind.

I added a pic of the megasquirt box and a pic of megatuneSS and a few for Megatune. I also added the tech edge wideband link. I could add my ignition map and VE table but that would come with a big disclaimer because I have not tuned the engine yet, I would only do that if everyone knew that it was just to get the engine fired and nothing else without proper tuning. Once I have tuned my engine better I can list those tables also. I think that adding the fast idle section, fuel map and ignition map is the last step to having a complete install guide. This is the area I am finishing up with my install right now. Let me know what you guys think about listing my settings with the above caveat.

You have to select the target gallery for every picture. It will give you an option for your account that looks like *youraccount I know this and I still screwed up and loaded another pic to events, it defaults there for every picture.

I found this in an old post: In other words, when the fuel pump has power the air regulator has power. When there is power to the air reg it runs a little internal heater that heats up and shuts off the air flow through it. Looks like I will hook up the air regulator using one of the programmable outputs from MSnS. That way I can still have some of the daily driver starting comforts. I am also going to still run coolant through the 240sx TB. It is very likely that I will drive this car on 10-20 degree days. This should make for an easy fast idle setup, I'll write it into the guide once I try everything out.

Probably the most important thing not covered in the MSnS install guide is how to set up fast idle. The reason is because I have not set mine up yet. I am just dealing with no fast idle at the moment. Well, the time has come and I want to solve this in an easy and cheap way if possible. First I have a question, how exactly does the stock 280zxt air regulator work. Does it just get a 12volt signal when the engine is running and that stays on all the time? Then the bi-metal element is heated by the coolant passing through it and it eventually closes? If this is correct then it is easy to connect an output from MSnS that controls a relay and provides 12volts when the engine is running. MSnS has two programmable outputs. If the air regulator is more complex and requires some sort of digital or analog signal, then I'll have to dig up a control solenoid like the megasquirt manual suggests.

That is interesting now that you mention it, I have never had anyone think of anything but datsun when I say Z car. Me, I just have the two Z's now: 72 and 73 But I use to have 63 Chevy-II 66 Impala SS (400sbc when I got it)) and of course.... Moby the van 68 Chevy van I've got the 85 F350 dually crew cab with chevy engine, but you don't want to know about that... heh heh heh

my spreadsheet says WC T-5 weighs 87 lbs my nissan turbo T-5 weighs right around 80-85 lbs Not including mounts, flywheel, clutch, just tranny

ok, I can't save a buck then, I'll just buy an oil cooler.

A friend just gave me a new in box Hayden tranny cooler. I was going to use it as an oil cooler on my turbo engine. Is there a problem with the tranny cooler tube size? It looks big enough to me, but I remember the outlets for the factory oil cooler being a little bigger.

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=29024 Read through this old post, it should give you some good info.

Those are good questions, the answers could fill pages. Having all of that piping is going to slow down the response of the turbo, it won't perform quite like it does now with just the j-pipe. But in the end you will be making more power, the boost may not seem to hit as sudden as with the j-pipe. Restriction is one of your enemies with intercoolers and piping. Restriction causes the air to heat up and that defeats your purpose. All intercoolers and piping will have some restriction, you have to decide how much money to spend and what you can live with. More exspensive intercoolers have less retriction, good manufacturers should always list pressure drops across the intercooler which in a roundabout way tells you how restrictive it is. You want the least pressure drop of course. Keeping your piping as short as you can will help the boost response.

Those are coolant lines going to the throttle body. The 240sx throttle body will have them also, but coming out at different angle so you need to re-route the coolant lines. The 3 branch thingy you refer to has different functions. First, the thing with the electrical connector is your air regulator. It lets extra air into the stock throttle body right after the butterfly(throttle plate) to help the cold engine idle. If you change to 240sx TB, you can get an adapter plate that uses this same hookup for the idle. Another one of those hoses from the branch goes to the AAC valve. The other goes to a check valve and into the number 4 intake runner. I can't say much about those because I removed the AAC and EGR valves when running my stock engine setup(with these two removed then the VCM(vacuum control modulator) get removed). As for the check valve in the number 4 runner, ??. Maybe somebody else can shed some light on that one. Heh heh, this is only going to raise more questions than answers for you.

Just thought you guys would be interested to hear about the first drive since I have installed MSnS. I spent a few minutes tuning the accel bins so the engine responded good. All other settings are default except the constants I entered for the engine. Injector size, number of cylinders, etc. Throttle response is much better. I am using an igntion curve somewhat like the examples that James posted a while back. VE tables are based on other peoples dynos of the L28et with 10psi boost and stock turbo. I only drove the car on dirt so there wasn't much load, only spinning tires. I still want to use the wideband meter before I load the engine in higher gears on pavement. With really minimal tuning it is running as good as it did with the stock ECU(I think better but I have upgraded a lot of stuff), much improved throttle response. Can't wait to do some real tuning now and get back to the pavement. BTW, my throttle linkage is only opening a little over half throttle and has always been this way since the swap. Got to get that fixed, probably why I was only showing 150hp with Gtech on the stock setup. The 1G DSM BOV is too much fun. The neighbors must think they are part of the Fast and Furious now. wahhhhh... ka-chssssss I am very happy with the MSnS computer so far, it is very solid. I have not had one case of weird behavior out of it. Can't say that for the stock system. I hope to be ordering the tech edge wideband kit soon. When I get the throttle fixed I'll let you know what Gtech has to say now. It won't be a comparison to the old setup because the throttle was messed up back then, but atleast give a baseline.

Ok, I messed up and added three pictures to the hybridz gallery under events. They are schematics and relay board pictures. I didn't realize that I have to select the target gallery for every picture, oops. Now I can't delete them. :malebitchslap:

oh my....

swap the turbo engine into the new car first and get it running right, then worry about upgrades and addons. I took that path and have been much happier. Trust me, you'll know more after the stock turbo swap, then you can make better decisions on where to go with your setup.