mobythevan

I have both days this weekend to work on the install of MSnS. I downloaded the MSnS version 3 code onto my megasquirt board. BTW, I couldn't get the download.exe program from Eric to work. I found that using the EasyTherm4 program to download new code works much easier(it isn't just for making new calibration files). It tells you exactly what to do in the readme files and in the GUI. I set up the base fuel setting from MegaTune and the base ignition settings from MegaTuneSS. The MSnS works fine on the stimulator board. I built the 37pin cable and connected to the realy board, everything still works. I also built a dropping resistor pack using 6 6ohm 25watt resistors. That cost me $6. I am not going to run in PWM mode to start with. My goal this weekend is to get the car to fire and idle. To do that I still have to get the trigger from the dizzy hooked up to MSnS, use a 4 pin HEI module to drive the coil, and get the fixed timing of the dizzy set so my igntion table works. Should be fun

I wasn't expecting to look into UMS until next spring because even if they get the boards out by the end of this year I like to let the other people use and debug it for a few months before I jump in. Nobody is throwing out a date of completion for it, just that developement is going good.

Right here, same place I've always been. Doesn't seem like a fair comparison because once I have MS installed I will also have an intercooler in, 60mm TB, 450cc injectors, bigger fuel pump, running 14psi boost, new clutch that actually holds, MSD ignition. I guess your trying to gauge whether the average Joe can install MS and get it to work. That is a valid arguement, but as long as the person installing it has the know-how it will work. I can tell you what is the limiting factor on my car right now and it isn't the fuel system (clutch). I think with MS it all boils down to one thing, do you have the know-how for a DIY project, if not you better stick with HKS or something similar where they have someone with the know-how to help you. Boy, I hope no one is waiting on me to see how my install of MS goes because I must be the slowest person on this forum. But I will keep everyone updated. I might actuall install it this weekend if you can believe that!!!!!! BTW, when I say "you" I mean anyone, not you in particular. Don't want anyone to take offense to my posts.

Just load version 3.0 MegaSquirtnSpark code on a MegaSquirt and have fun. Unless your thinking of UltraMegaSquirt which has wideband and other stuff, that is not out yet.

That is what I am using. BTW install looks good, I still think MSnS is the best bang for the buck fuel/spark computer available for us guys without a big budget.

did you see his auction for the certificate of liquid appreciation, that is even funnier. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1469&item=2960761236

Don't even get me started about cops(Sheriff, State Patrol, City Police). Sheriffs came to my house at 4:30am on a Sunday morning looking for a missing person. I wasn't home, I was away hunting for the week. They actually thought my wife had somehow kidnapped a teenage girl from the mall that same day, because my wife was there shopping. Don't ask me how they made the connection, but the girl was just off at a party passed out and showed up the next day. A real crack pot missing person investigation, no wonder Elizabeth Smart was never found in the same city she disappeared in. I could go on with several stories to explain why I don't like cops, but we'll just leave it at that. And just to let it be known, I have only been in court once in my life and it was for harassing a police officer, but that is another story. I have a state patrol brother-in-law and another relative that is city police, and they both know how I feel about cops. Conversation is sparce whenever I am around them. On a different note I took the state patrol guy for a ride in the turbo 240z and did a launch at 3500rpm and left black marks for about 100 feet and pulled about 110mph with him. He looked over at the speedo and I said, "yeah I changed rear ends and speedo is off a little, we are only doing about 55mph".

If its any help I started out to do a V8, but did the turbo conversion first and I haven't regretted it at all. I have learned a ton about EFI and turbo engines, and the turbo conversion runs really good. I'll do the V8 later, maybe

The engine mounts in no problem, but if you use the borg warner 5 speed that came in the turbo cars you will likely have to modify the transmission mount.

If it is optical then it should trigger the MSS fine, we'll see. Is this what you are looking for on how to hook up the HEI module? http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/4P2WPxmz8w8C8dzMQMgUP1-fNN3HPJ92WTei_152KFvxp000YWKA4sjbxXYG6Dj0E3ie6ieH-K9XtcjWKB6m78PEc_zJCP5aCw/MegaSpark%20HEI%20Block%20Diagram.bmp The diagram is for MegaSpark, but the same idea applies. I believe Magnus left an option to invert signals to use the HEI module easier.

Lets see if I can confuse this some more. One way to hook things up is to just use MS as a fuel computer like it was intended. In this scenario you just need a tach type of trigger for the MS. So you might have an MSD unit doing your ignition and you can just take the tach signal from it to trigger MS. In the other case you want to run MSS and have it control ignition. In this case you need a trigger for MSS that comes from some sort of pickup(variable reluctor like GM dizzies, a hall effect dizzy, an optical dizzy, etc). The variable reluctor cannot trigger MSS directly, because the pulse out of it varies too much(at low rpm it is less than a volt, at high rpm it is more than 50 volts according to the MS manual). A hall effect or optical pickup can trigger MSS directly. So the easiest way to make the variable reluctor work(if your stuck with that type of pickup) is to use a 4 pin HEI module which condtions the variable reluctor signal so that it can be used to trigger MSS. However you get it triggered is one thing, then you have an output signal that controls your igntion module, this could be hooked to an MSD or a gm HEI module to drive the coil. So in one paticular case if you have a variable reluctor pickup in your dizzy you may want to use a 4 pin HEI module to condition the trigger signal to MSS and then another 4 pin HEI module on the output of MSS to drive your coil. I haven't looked at the 83 turbo dizzy yet to see if it is a variable reluctor, hall effect or optical pickup. I think I remember reading months ago that is was variable reluctor.

UMS should be out sometime the end of this year. I am hoping to use it on my V8 z car next year, assuming I ever finish the L28ET car. Man, I just wish I could find more time to work on the car. I have everything setting in my garage, but can't seem to free up enough time to work on it. I am not sure if the signal directly from the turbo dizzy will trigger the MSS, but you are right, no more of the low 5 BTDC stuff. The signal from the dizzy may not have enough amplitude or pulse width to trigger MSS, but if that is the case an op amp circuit will fix that or you can use the GM HEI module to trigger the MSS. When I get it running I'll give a diagram or post with instructions.

I've been out on a hunting trip the last week. Just got back into work today and rechecked all of the forums and the MSS v3.0 is now released. I have been waiting for this software upgrade because it should allow me to use MegaSquirt'nSpark on my L28et and use the 83 dizzy. This upgrade can use a single rising edge trigger now and does time based calculations for cranking start up. The tough part with MSS was having to provide the goofy trigger for cranking. The upgrade also provides two outputs that can be programmed to control various things from fast idle(which was dropped from MS to provide the ignition output), shift light, electric fan, boost control, etc. Hopefully I'll have MSS v3.0 up and running in a few weeks. Here is the email from the forum: Message: 13 Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 10:31:44 +0200 From: "Magnus Bjelk - The Renault 16 Site" <magnus@r16site.com> Subject: MegaSquirtNSpark v3.0 release/beta test Hi all! Finally MSS v3.0 is here. New features: -Flyback modifications, fuel calculations, etc from MegaSquirt 3.0/2.987 EXCEPT odd-fire -Earlier triggers up to 135 deg BTDC, regardless of cylinder number -Inductive trigger support (timebased cranking timing) -Invert output option for easier connection to GM HEI etc. -Revlimits, soft (retard) and hard (fuel cut) -Programmable outputs (X4 & X5) Bug fixes -Instable rpm indication at higher revs NOTE: MSS v3.0 requires a MegaTuneSS v3.0 so remember to download the new configurator also. Updated instructions will be uploaded soon, but I guess you're all anxious to test it. /Magnus

I have seen good used nissan T3 turbos bring $100 on ebay. that would help get back some money.

I was afraid to put the hood on without vents, so I don't have a real measurement, but the turbo puts off so much heat after hot rodding the car a little that I can't imagine running without some kind of vent. My car with no hood will gain about three needle widths on the temp gauge if I get into the turbo for 5-8 seconds. And it takes several minutes of driving after that to cool back to normal. I still need to get the oil cooler hooked back up.

I know with my setup (185 tires) and 225mm clutch, mine is a clutch burning machine. When I hit second gear its just clutch slipping and game over. I am sure when I get the 240mm clutch in, then it will just be a tire burning machine.

The vents are installed as close to the firewall as possible without cutting into the hood reinforcement underneath. Also, I had to follow the body line of the rise in the center of the hood, because if I followed the body line of the hood outside edge I would have been cutting into the reinforcement on the outside. I figured these would be more useful in the turbo section than body section because they directly relate to the turbo swap. BTW, this hood has a pretty good dent in the front, so I didn't mind experimenting with it. I do have a straight hood if I decide to try something else.

Look at the FAQ again and several posts down there is a wiring chart for the turbo conversion into a 240z. Plug 2 has two different yellow wires, one of them is the start wire you are concerned about. The other is an AC signal. From the haynes manual you can track the wires around the wiring schematic to figure out which one is the start signal, and then it should only get 12V when cranking. I hooked it to the solenoid on the starter. The only place for confusion is that there happens to be two yellow wires in the same connector. The first two times I fired my engine I had the signal hooked to 12V all the time and it ran soooo rich I have a permanent black circle on my floor a foot in diameter where the stock downpipe dumped. It brought tears to my eyes it was so rich and it wouldn't idle, had to give it a little throttle to keep it running. But if someone hooked it up to 12V all the time and then adjusted idle, who knows how it would behave, like Jersey's car I guess. Anyway, study that wiring chart carefully, locate the three plugs it refers to, and the haynes wiring schematics. Then look the see where the mechanic hooked each of the critical wires.

the 240sx TB I got has two connectors, one that looks like the 280zxt type and that one is a switch. The other is on a wire about 3 inches long and that one is the potentiometer output.

I only tried the hp measurement on the camry, its a V6, 195 hp says the factory. G-tech showed 155hp if I entered the right weight, that is probably true since the altitude will lose around 30% hp. I just wanted to play with it, I didn't try 0-60 or anything, it was getting late. The camry should run a blistering 8.5 second 0-60.

Jeffs site http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page9.html'>http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page9.html and slownrusty's instructions from zcar..... 240SX Throttle Body Installation On A L28E(T) For Dummies! Well actually I’m the dummy! Note to self: A 4hr installation CAN take 18hours also stick to day job. Hey gang, finally got around to replacing my stock 50mm TB with one from a 1994 Nissan 240SX (KA24DE engine). The 240SX TB is 60mm in diameter that culminates in a pretty significant 20% increase. I figure an engine is an air pump, so the more air you can pump into it that more efficient it makes it. That’s why forced induction works so well – right? I got my 240SX TB from the scrap yard, the car was smashed hard in the front, for $10 I also made sure that I grabbed it with the TPS as well – very important. If you don’t get the 240SX TPS plan on fabricating some fidgety brackets to mount your OE L28 TPS onto the 240SX TB – another pain to deal with, that can be avoided. I am making this breakdown specific to my ’83 Turbo car, but the installation on a normally aspirated will be almost identical. Before you begin ripping out your OE TB, you will need to get a few things, here is a brief breakdown: 1) 1†aluminum spacer with the 60mm opening with 4 pre-drilled holes to mount the new TB on, basically use a KA24 TB gasket as your template. The spacer is required only if you want to re-use the stock linkage, which is what I did. I did not want to fuss and try adapting the 240SX throttle cable to my ZX. I think the OE roller ball linkage on the Z looks damn cool too! Cost : $50 and can be done at your local machine shop. 2) 3-4 plumbing 90o elbows to neatly re-route your coolant lines through the 240SX TB. If you compare the ZX TB and the SX TB, you will see that the coolant necks are pointing in different directions. I highly recommend re-connecting your coolant passages through the TB if you drive your car in any kind of cold weather. Also you will need about 6 small hose clamps and some coolant lines (which you should have laying around somewhere in the garage). Cost: $8 3) You will have to modify your turbo to TB J-pipe. I am running my car non-intercooled for the time being, but only for a short while. I had my J-pipe modified at the local muffler shop, this is done as you want the new TB end of the J-pipe to be the same diameter of the SX TB i.e. 60mm. The muffler shop essentially cut off my old “flared†mouth and welded in a new one. I designed new J-pipe so it does not fit over the TB like the OE unit, but rather butts up against it and then I used a piece of 3†rubber hose I had laying around to “couple†the modified J-pipe to the installed SX TB. Cost: $20 plus another $2 for 3†hose clamps at Home Depot. 4) Metal Oxide carbide grinders, used to hog out the intake from 50mm to 60mm. I used my drill and a borrowed Dremel to accomplish this task. Also you can use these same grinders to clean up any weld slag on the modified J-pipe after you get it back from the Muffler Shop. Cost: $10. 5) 4 new longer metric bolts to mount the SX TB with the spacer onto the intake, I just went to NAPA and they had them in stock with lock washers. Cost: $5 I am going to assume everyone has all the other items needed like a continuity tester, voltmeter, sockets, gasket paper etc etc for the remainder of this installation. So total cost around $100 or less than half of buying a new 60mm unit from some of the Z car specialist stores. Not bad! Ok now that you got all the goodies. Remove the stock 50mm TB and all associated pieces, like: 1) The two heater lines that run through it (watch for some spillage). 2) The TPS connector 3) The vacuum line to the ACCS 4) The little vacuum line to the EGR under the TB And you would have removed the J-pipe already , which is a pain at the turbo end, and you may have to crawl under the car to get to the two 8mm hose clamps. Start by making two gaskets for your SX TB and also one for the new 1†spacer, I had good quality gasket paper at home and made mine from scratch. I guess you could also go to the Nissan dealer and just buy two SX gaskets for ease simplicity. Next shove lots of clean rags into the intake and make sure and shove one down the number one runner, as those filings from hogging out the intake are nasty and the repercussions of getting these nasty things in the engine is something that will make any car enthusiast’s blood crawl! Use the new 60mm gaskets as a template and start hogging! This takes time and precision and make sure all the edges are smooth and neat. Remember air is a fluid that likes to flow dynamically, no sharp edges, steps, etc etc. I recommend using gogles as well. After hogging, remove the rags and clean out all the filings and shavings that would be every where for sure. Check also inside the intake as well to confirm that there are no loose pieces. Mount the first gasket against the intake, then the 1†spacer, then the second gasket and finally the SX TB. Tighten it all down with the new 4 longer bolts. Also make sure the TPS is properly adjusted, check the threads on this website on how to do it. This is an easy procedure, trust me if I can do it, so can you! You will need your continuity checker and voltmeter for this step. Next take 10minutes (I took 30!!) to figure out how to re-run your OE coolant lines through the SX TB. Then start cutting the OE rubber hose and adding your elbows and connecting it all together. Looks simple but took me ages as I was trying to be neat and avoid sharp bends, kinks. You will notice the SX TB has no port for the ACCS so I was worried what to do? I just plugged the ACCS mouth on the intake and car ran fine, no issues, so make sure and have a large enough vacuum cap ready or an old rubber line and a bolt through it to act as a plug. Next hook up your linkage, which is just the one throttle arm. Plus you will need the connection (with the ball end) off your ZX TB and add that to the SX TB, check my pics for clarification (http://www.picturetrail.com/slownrusty) or JeffP’s excellent website (http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/) After that time to add the J-pipe, if you did a good job with it should fit easily and use your 3†rubber coupling to connect it to the SX TB. I did a lousy job with mine at the muffler shop (my fault not there’s) but was able to modify it at home (love my grinder with cut off wheel) so it fit really snug. Tighten down with the 3†hose clamps. Hook up the TPS connector, you will have to (unfortunately) slit the factory sheathing on the EFI harness as the connector does not have enough slack to reach. Be super careful as sharp knives and small gauge electrical wires do not mix well. After hooking up the connector make sure and electrical tape everything back to together for protection and use loom protection for further safety. The true test!! Fire it up, listen to make sure no boost vacuum leaks or coolant leaks. Use a rubber tube at your ear and the other end around the TB and vacuum lines, home made stethoscope!! The TRUE test, go prey on some domestic iron! Good luck! You will love the increase in acceleration and mid range and how smooth the car runs. Can’t go wrong. To give you some numbers, Sport Compact Car added a 54mm TB to a Sentra that has the anemic GA16DE engine (stock TB is 50mm) and they picked up 2.5hp at the wheels and similar torque, so I figure this install is good for at least double that, not bad for a 100bux. Any more questions feel free to email me at slownrusty@yahoo.com or see my pics of this install on http://www.picturetrail.comslownrusty.

I'll let you know what the G-tech pro says after this weekend. I got it in yesterday and plan to test tomorrow. I tried it out on my Camry last night and it works really good. I believe my setup is very close to yours, altitude being the biggest difference between the two of us. I'm at 6400 feet.

Yeah, I paid $550 for my 240z, $225 for L28et, $75 for T-5, and traded for an R200. With everything else I bought to make the swap work, like a new fuel pump($130), I've got around $1300 in the car and it runs great. Doesn't look so great though

pictures from the ebay item http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2435081631&category=33615

here you go