mobythevan

I was thinking of putting a hood scoop from a 300zx turbo onto my 240z hood to help cool the L6 turbo after doing the turbo swap. I am curious to see pics if anyone has done this.

I was wrong, the squirt'nspark lets you have a 2 dimensional table for timing that has RPM vs MAP signal. So this lets you change timing as the boost changes at a given rpm. Just wanted to correct that.

I remember you saying that this engine ran to some extent before your swap. But I also remember you saying that the mechanic thought the valve timing was off and changed the timing by one tooth. I just get really scared when people change the valve timing, my friend put his together wrong and bent a valve and didn't realize it for a while until he kept wondering why it was underpowered. Anyway, we assume your mechanic timed the engine right, but if it ran ok before why would it have been off? This may have nothing to do with your bent valve, but it just makes me nervous.

Like you said, the goofy input signal is only used for starting the engine from what I understand. Once it is running above 600rpm, then you can use a short pulse like most sensors put out. So I may just build a little extra circuitry to condition the signal when cranking. I am pretty sure I will use the MSD 6 with boost retard, that will also solve the problem with dwell. Hopefully my pc boards will be in this week and I can get the unit together and tested this weekend, then start installation in the next couple weeks.

You talk about a brick, I did 110mph in my 68 chevy van(see avatar). I've only had my 240z to 110mph so far, it felt much much better than the van.

I saved that picture for future reference. It should be pretty easy to fabricate a set of headers like that, since the primaries aren't matched to length. I like em, now who is going to be the first to have a twin turbo V8 z car?

The squirt'nspark code as far as I understand just lets you have a table for ignition timing. It does not use the knock sensor yet or have boost input for retarding timing. It is very basic, but hopefully it will support those features soon.

My welding isn't the greatest, but this should work. I chickened out on welding to the cast flange, so I just made a new flange from 3/8" mild steel and matched it to the gasket. This opens the port out of the turbo a little bigger than the stock cast downpipe flange. Put a little more angle into it to tuck into the tranny tunnel real nice. I am also goin to put a couple small mandrel bends as I go back to keep the whole thing tucked up into the tranny tunnel. A straight pipe from front to back has to hang lower to miss everything. I'm not real worried about ground clearance, I just like spending countles hours laying under my car. My 3" exhaust will be shaped more like the factory 240 exhaust, not sure how some people are getting straight pipe to work all the way back, maybe they aren't.

I would swear that my vacuum hose from the bottom of the throttle body went to the charcoal canister. I'm sure of it now that I think back. I have always had it plugged.

Yeah, where is the vacuum line on the bottom of the throttle body suppose to go? Where does it go on the stock setup?

The northstar is very popular for sand rails.

http://www.mechtech-ms.com/html/nspix_big/pic157.html

I just went back and read through all of the northstar posts again and was wondering if anyone went on to do the swap? Everbody sure thinks it it would be a good swap, anyone proved that out? Also, there was some controversy over whether the northstar is a 60 degree block or 90 degree. Seems to be listed either way on various sites.

http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

Also, it doesn't make any noise once the pedal is out and the clutch is engaged(in gear or neutral), tires spinning and everything is fine at that point. And since I forgot to check the pilot shaft, I also forgot to put any grease on it or the bushing.

Swapped the 83 BW t-5 into my 73 240z with L28et engine. Everything went smooth. I used the 225mm clutch, pp, flywheel, throwout sleeve from the 4spd in the 240z and put it all on the t-5. I haven't drove the car yet, but did all of the following while on jackstands. Tranny shifts through all gears just fine. Clutch seems to working great, but... When letting the pedal out and the clutch starts engaging, putting a load on the tranny, I geat a little vibration in the pedal and it sounds a lot like a throwout bearing going bad. Doesn't make any noise when it sets in neutral with the pedal out, also no noise with the pedal in or while pushing the pedal in. Only letting the pedal out. Its worse when I hold the brakes and put the clutch under a load. One thing I forgot to do was check the pilot shaft for rust. The tranny had been setting in the junkyard for who knows how long. Also, I installed a new throwout bearing and clutch disc, but did not do anything with the flywheel and pressure plate. The same flywheel and pressure plate was paired with the old clutch disc before the swap, and I ran the car with the 4spd with no noises or anything else unusual. I took care in pressing the throwout bearing on and it doesn't seem to be that. Opinions so far are that it was probably a warped pressure plate or rusty pilot shaft, damaged pilot bushing. I don't know, I figured I would drive it for a while and see if it acts like a warped pressure plate when taking off. And make sure the clutch is working good, no slip etc. I hate the thought of pulling the tranny right back off, but also hate the thought of breaking the input shaft or something else. The pilot shaft of the BW t-5 is the same diameter as all datsun manual trannies right? I left the same bushing in that the 4spd used because it only has 100miles on it. I'll go do a search, since that just occurred to me.....

I think the only vacuum line on my intake now is for the fuel pressure regulator, everything else is removed. Oh, and brake booster of course. I have manual tranny and no heater core. Heater lines are bypassed on the engine.

Background, I had already removed the EGR valve and put a block off plate on the intake manifold. I am not using a charcoal canister so those vacuum lines are plugged. My engine was running perfect and idling perfect. This is an 83 L28et. So this weekend I removed the AAC, VCM and all associated vaccum hoses. I put a block off plate on the intake manifold where the AAC valve was. I also removed and plugged the HICD, high idle control device which was used to raise idle when using AC. Also vented the crankcase to atmosphere and the valve cover. I made my own piping from the AFM to the turbo so that I can solve the AFM mounting issues in the 240z. Tried to fire it up, nothing. Gave it a little throttle and it fired up. Had to raise the idle using the screw on the throttlebody just like Sleeperz said. Idles fine now and runs great again. I haven't had a chance to drive it much, but it seems like you can remove all of that stuff and then just re-adjust the idle and your good. I will re-attach the crankcase vent to the intake with check valve, and then put the valve cover vent back to piping between AFM and turbo, but I have to weld on nipples for that. To test things I just vented them to atmoshpere and plugged the intake hole where the check valve was.

horsepower = (torque*rpm)/5252 If you think you know horsepower at some rpm then you can solve for torque. If rpm is 5252 then torque = horsepower

Since I just ordered the boards and parts, I got the MegaSquirt board, Relay board, and stimulator board. That cost $90. The digikey parts for all three boards cost about $115. Then I will have to buy an enclosure for the assembled MS board. Another $15. So I think your looking about $220 for everything including shipping. Lucky for me there is a huge store near my work that sells all kinds of used and surplus electronic parts.

My completely stock setup with fuel pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail reads 30psi at idle. It reads more like 38psi if I pull the vacuum line off the FPR.

And for reference to anyone looking into MegaSquirt MegaSquirt main website http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html MegaSquirt FAQ, a must read http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/MS%20FAQ.htm What is Ultra MegaSquirt? http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/UMS.htm MegaSquirt user group http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/ MegaSquirt'nSpark user group http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirtnspark/

Good, I was hoping you would stick with the MS also. I ordered all of the parts today so I can build and test the unit by the time winter arrives. Mudge may still be planning to use MS with his 5.0 swap too.

I plan to use an MSD 6AL box so I won't worry about the GM HEI. I am not worried about the CAS signal either, because I can design some interface logic to condition the signal or add my own encoder wheel to pick up a signal that is timed correctly. I'll let you guys know what is happening, like I said I won't start into this until the weather starts getting bad. The car is running good right now so I want to drive it a little before winter. I'm glad to see there are a few people still interested in doing this, always helps to bounce ideas off someone else.

Ok, so some of the spinoff MegaSquirt(MS) guys now have merged code to support EFI and spark control on the same MS board. It looks like you have to give up fast idle control to free up an output, but then you can use that output to control an MSD box. This looks like it will work good for the L28et engine swaps and subsequent upgrades to larger injectors, turbos, etc. Is anyone else thinking about using the Mega Squirt'n Spark code for their turbo car? Now that Mudge and Tim240z have sold their turbo cars, it doesn't seem like anyone else is interested in the MS stuff. At first with the old MegaSpark it seemed like you had to build two MS boards, one for EFI, the other for spark. Doubling the price didn't thrill me much, but the newer merged code looks good keeping the price to one board, at the exspense of losing fast idle control(I can deal with that). The "real" MS guys are also working on a new version of the hardware to support spark control, wideband O2, and EFI control. This one is termed the Ultra Mega Squirt. It doesn't look like that one will be available until the end of the year or possibly next year. And then it will be new hardware so will go through some length of debugging by the first users. I think I'll stick with the older MS that has been used by many people until the new one is pounded out better. I have intended to MS my turbo 240 since early summer, but wanted to wait until it was running correctly in stock form and all of my other functional upgrades were complete. That time is rapidly approaching. My plan today is that I will drive the car in stock condition until the weather starts to get bad, then start the switch over the MS'nS. Right now the car runs great, so I will atleast have a baseline before the switch. I believe the first stage of the switch will just get the car running on MS'nS with stock pump, injectors, fpr. Then if I have success to actually upgrade all of those components. More updates to follow.