awd92gsx
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Posts posted by awd92gsx
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My memory is a little vague on this one, but I think I remember either John Shepard (or was it one of the Extreme guys) putting down over 700hp in a 2.0L DSM running about the same amount of boost...if a 2.0L DSM could do it, I don't see why a 2.8L L28ET couldn't do it IF the compression ratio and there was some serious head work, of course, it could be stroked, too...
Of course...the L series cylinder head isn't exactly on the leading edge of technology, so it'd be pretty tough to coax that much hp out of one...
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T-2smalls are usually good up to about 270hp, so you could, in theory, use it, but you'd be really pushing that bad boy...although, it'd have alot of pull off the line!
What manifold are you using? Is this going to be a custom manifold or are you going to use the turbo 3.0L stuff?
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On a stock pistoned L28ET with a P90, the 2mm head gasket will yield a 7.0:1 compression ratio (according to lengine.exe)
That, in my opinion, is way to low. I'm going to shoot for around an 8.5:1 for my turbo engine if possible.
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Yeah, it definitely makes the car look much more modern...That's a good price if you can get it for that...
I personally like them better without the sideskirts, but some cars look better with them and some seem to look better without them...
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These are pics of my '77 with the MSA (Wings West) F40 style wing
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and with my F40 spoiler...
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They're mounted in the front door panels for the fronts and in the stock locations in the rear (I assume they're the same size in the back, I haven't pulled off the panels to look, but I can see them back there)
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Ok, installed the new 10" Rockford Fosgate XLC subwoofer last night.
It's actually a bit better and really compliments the rest of the system quite well. Not too bass heavy, but definitely enough bass to turn heads and make your favorite music rock!
I personally listen to Limp Bizkit, Linkin Park, Marilyn Manson, etc...along with alot of Rave and an occasional bass electronica piece...
However, even if you don't spend the money on a Fosgate, JL, or other high end sub, even a cheap Kenwood or Jensen can sound good if they are in a good box, have a good amp, and are crossed over properly (I've seen way too many good speakers sound like garbage only because they are in poor boxes and aren't being crossed over properly, if at all)
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I am running a Panasonic headunit (sorry, I didn't install it so I can't tell you how to get it out, but my current head unit just pulls right out) with 4 - 4.25" JBL midrange/tweeter combos, powered by the head unit, 2 - 6x9" Jensen midrange drivers (temporary only) and 1 - 10" Rockford Fosgate Series 1 amp (again, only temporary - I get a new Fosgate sub tomorrow) powered by and crossed over through a Lanzar 800w 4 channel amp.
A single 10" sub actually hits fairly hard in the small cabin of a Z, but I'm thinking about just either running a single 12" or possible dual 10"'ers...I'll see how the new sub I'm installing tomorrow does...
The Jensens do OK for midbass (I bought two enclosures at walmart for $29 and the 6x9's were close to the same, again...better than nothing at all, I don't use them for high's or bass, only midbass)
I also bought the 10" enclosure at walmart, it's actually a nice little enclosure for the money (about $30).
They fit just about perfectly in the hatch area and still leave me plenty of room for storage area....
the Lanzar amp only ran me $135 new, so for less than $200 I got a pretty decent sounding system FOR THE TYPE OF MUSIC I LISTEN TO!
That's the key. Build the system for YOUR music and YOUR ears. Very few systems are going tp sound good to everybody and be able to play all genres of music equally.
I normally prefer JL subs, but I'm getting the Fosgates for free...eventually I'll run a couple of JL 10" W3's...
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Keep in mind, though, that a small block chevy isn't all that much longer than a 4G63, it just happens to have twice as many cylinders...
Ok, the engine designations are as follows:
1) 4G63T - This applies to both the 1st and 2nd Generation 2.0L turbo engines. The 2nd generation 4G63 engines are typically the crankwalkers of the bunch
2) 4G64 - This is the 2.4L engine from the truck, vans, and cars. There are a few variations of the 4G64 so they're not all the same, but they're all called 4G64's.
I've never seen anybody break a Starion tranny, so I don't know how strong they are, unfortunately.
Basically, with the 2.4L you have a power band from about 2500-7000 rpm.
You don't have to buy or build a custom intake manifold. A guy by the name of Eric Plebani (he stuffs 4G63's into anything he can) can modify a stock one to mount the throttle body on the other side. From what I can tell it's not a super major process.
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There are basically two reasons why the earlier 6 bolt is more desireable.
1) It comes stock with beefier rods, however, the 7 bolt rods are more than strong enough for AJ's desired power levels (300hp)
2) There are a few, very few, cases of 1G crankwalk with the 7 bolt engine
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I once had the oppurtunity to measure (on the car) a Starion tranny and it came out to be within an inch or so of a Z tranny.
Now, the 4G64 that we've been talking about (btw...I've never seen or heard of a 4G64 crankwalking) have been out of cars. There are two 4G64's. The car version, and the truck version. The truck version has a larger bell housing bolt pattern than the car version.
I stand firm in my belief that the 2.0L head will still bolt onto the truck version and I believe the Starion tranny will bolt onto the larger 4G64 bell housing.
If this is true, then it would be simplest to use a truck 4G64, the 2.0L 4G63 cylinder head, and a Starion transmission, which has gear ratios similiar to a Z I believe.
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Actually, you're quite wrong on the powerband.
Very few DSM'ers shift at anything over 6500rpm (if I remember right, this is also what Dave Buschur shifts at) AS LONG AS they have a GOOD setup.
Mitsubishi W5M33 trannies tend to not shift correctly at 9k rpm, oftentimes leading to broken shift forks and hub assemblies at that RPM.
However, the 63/64 hybrid will provide a nice helping of low end torque while still maintaining all high rpm power. Kinda like having your cake and eating it, too. Magnus Motorsports built up a 6 bolt 4G64 and put it into a 2G. If memory serves me correctly he ran a 10.1 at something like 147 mph and never saw above 7k rpm.
There is alot of controversy regarding the oil squirters in a 4G63. Many people believe the oil squirters are the cause of 4G63 crankwalk (although I've heard differently through Mitsubishi). Personally, I'd leave them out, but again, opinions vary.
I've driven and seen turbocharged 4G64's (2.4L) and can honestly say that I'd much rather have a turbo'd 4G64 than a 4G63. Even at modest boost levels the 4G64 had a ton of power through the entire rpm range.
This may help with your transmission question:
http://www.geocities.com/piercedjd/tranny.html
Before answering the other questions, try checking out this site (he is an online friend of mine and is pretty helpful)
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Lance,
Have you tried new wires? Sometimes wires can ohm out good but still be bad (they tend to break down under load).
If you haven't tried new wires go get yourself a cheap set of wires and start there.
Sometimes you can use electrical tape and insulate (wrap) the spark plug boot to help with diagnosis.
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Before diagnosing this, I need to know...what exactly happens that it won't let you go above a certain rpm? Does it start to cut out and miss on you? or does it just not rev that high but still run smoothly?
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Hmm...I have a stock bottom ended '77 280Z engine...I also have a complete (minus pistons) '83 turbo engine that is dissassembled...if I decided to swap the turbo setup onto the 77 engine where does the oil feed come from?
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Ok, now you guys got me thinking...
Our Mitsubishi's have hydraulic lash adjusters very similiar to the ones in the P90A (not all P90A's have hydraulic lash adjusters, though) and I've seen no problems with them up to 8000+ rpm.
We first need to examine what an HLA does and now it works. It is basically a spring assisted hydraulic plunger that removes valve lash by taking up the extra play. The oil pump supplies the hydraulic pressure needed for the plunger to keep up with the rocker arm ass'ys.
If you are installing a 1000 watt amp in your car you will need a large power cable to feed it. This is because the amperage requirements of the amp exceeds the amperage carrying capabilities of the smaller cable.
The same thing goes for the lifters. If your oil supply is not up to par (for any reason) or if there is sludge buildup in the lifter ass'y then oil pressure will drop in the lifter ass'y due to lack of oil volume.
So, by ensuring we have a good oil feed system and good oil pressures we can keep our HLA plunger operating at it's peak capacity. This may include soaking the HLA in diesel to clean it thoroughly and/or drilling the HLA oil supply hole to a slightly larger diameter so that, just like our 1000 watt amp, we have enough oil flow into the lifter to ensure that it does not experience low oil pressure internally.
I'm also willing to bet that by examining the oil feed through the block and the oil pump itself there may be other solutions to any high speed rpm operation problems.
Just something to think about....
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Ernie,
Actually, quite the contrary. The Blazer is actually the wife's!! The Z is all mine.
I want to V8 the Z and sell the turbo engine I have, but...I don't think I'm going to be able to afford the V8 conversion with my miniscule budget right now, so I'm going to have to just ante up and get pistons for the turbo engine I have. With the modifications to the engine, it should be plenty quick enough for a street car...
But, still...now that I have a rumbly torquey Blazer, I kinda want that same sound and feel in the Z...
Lone, can I check out your car sometime?
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Hey Ernie,
I'm still alive.
I just bought a 2 door 2000 Blazer 4.3L V6 with a Powerdyne Supercharger, Headers, Exhaust, 3.73's, water injection, MSD, and Granetelli Motorsports AFM complete with 17" Boyd Coddingtons and a bunch of other stuff...
It's pretty fun!!
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If a 4G63T goes tick tick tick at idle it's probably a wrong oil filter or bad lifters.
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Well, you could run the modified Toyota trannies that the StarQuest guys run, or you could run a 2.0L Dodge D50/Mighty Max tranny...or, you could just grab the drivetrain from a 2.4L Mighty Max/Montero Sport and run that with the 2.0L head and turbo setup.
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Toluene works, too...
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...well...
There's a little more logic these days when it comes to air bags. It looks at alot of different variables involved in the crash.
Speed, gforce, etc...
It then makes it's determination to determine whether or not to deploy the air bags...
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The engine is so detuned, you could probably get it to 500hp with a decent fuel system and a set of BPU's
Super charger
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I've been a turbo guy almost all of my adult life, but I've recently bought a 2000 Blazer that is equipped with a Powerdyne supercharger...
I actually wouldn't mind having a 4.3L V6 with a supercharger in my Z!!
I like the way the supercharged V6 has power from basically idle all the way to as high as I want to take it.
I think both types of forced induction have their place. However, a properly setup turbo setup can perform well across the entire rpm range...still...wouldn't mind having a supercharged LS1 in my Z
Nothing beats the cool whine of a supercharger.