rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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it may look funny, but chris is a hell of a driver. at pir here in phoenix, chris wast in the sub 1:05 range with problems. that is faster than cliftons times people. that is down into the gt3 catagory. the car was at 700 whp last may (08) and is now reported to be above 1000 whp. laugh all you want as it blows by big powerfull cars.
there has got to be a better way to get the downforce and make it look better.
and luck had nothing to do with it.
jimbo
JIM73240Z That is one WAY to get down force. It adds drag but if there is enough horsepower and torque to overcome it then it appears to the be main way to go about getting front downforce.
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Grumpyvette: I will second the comment regarding cylinder heads. Good heads in combination with good headers, good intake manifold and good camshaft make all the difference when it comes to power. Without good heads, its a LOOSING BATTLE.
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Anyone have any recomendations for automotive electronics references? I'll be on bed rest for a couple weeks for some surgery and would like to try and get myself ready for my LS1 swap. I really need some basic electrical information as well as automotive related stuff.
Basically, i'm looking for a automotive electronics for dumb-s&^*s book!!
Horatio: What functions do you want the electronics to do?
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rooster287: Have the front Lower Control Arms (LCA) ball joints checked for undue wear. Put the car on the hoist and twist the wheel inward and outward top and bottom respectively and also twist the wheel laterally to check for steering rack and tie rod end slop. This is a two man job, one to apply the twisting force and the other experienced person to watch for slop in ball joints, rack and tie rod ends. Once all of these are fairly tight (not sloppy) then align caster, camber and toe-in. Sloppyness usually occurs from the steering coupler doughnut, Tension/Compression rubber doughnuts and rubber mounts for the steering rack. Replace all these and whatever is sloppy in the steering/suspension and with a proper front end alignment it will steer as straight as an arrow flies.
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This is EXTREMELY interesting and will follow same. Am interested in doing something similar to my 240Z such that it has good aero at higher speeds. Also want to form a duct from a smaller opening in the air dam to a larger radiator opening to obtain very good radiator cooling. Additionally would like to get a scoop for engine air intake, above the radiator intake, to form a ram air intake. Need to make up cardboard panels to try out some of these ideas.
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Thing is, I only have one wire coming out of that plug in (red). Alternator charges fine, but the question is for how long before I replace it again.
I know there is a prob. So thats kinda why The new alternator is installed but I haven't drove it cause I want to get it right this time.
Still wondering how big a wire people normally run, and what size fuse to place on this thing. Still confused whether to put a resistor on the red wire or not. Seems like people who do put a resistor in place have multiple wires coming off the alternator plug in. My harness does not only one exciter red wire (camaro set up).
Thanks for the help so far. I think we are on to something.
aziza z: NEVER assume that you have a good ground on the alternator. Run as big a wire bolted to the case of the alternator as that running to the battery for charging. This is the HIGH amperage charging circuit. Perhaps the later (latest) alternators are supplied with a voltage for excitation other than 12 volts but that would seem STRANGE. If the cable from the battery to the starter and cable from the alternator to the battery are of sufficient heavy gauge, the inductive spikes from the starter should be absorbed by the battery. The type/model of (GM?) alternator still needs to be identified in order to know better what is going on with your situation.
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That's all it takes is persistence. ARP and Dorman both have them but in 1.5 threads per millimeter versus 1.25 on the Z cars. 1.5 is much more standard and that is what I put in my 240Z.
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IM still buying , table vices, cutting bits, bit holders, coolant pumps, coolant oil, drill chucks etc and teaching my sons (verbally as I watch and instruct them)how to set it up and use it, my old leg and back injuries make doing most things required on the machine myself very difficult or totally impossiable at this time, so I need to relie on my sons at times to get things done for me.
as Im
sure your aware the milling machine is just the basic tool, and theres a good deal more expence in the accessories necessary to get it to function, and trying to instruct a new guy when you can,t acctually demonstrate things at times is fustrating
heres the machine they get to learn on
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Shop-Fox-Vertical-Mill-9-x-49-/T20828
Grumpyvette: I am in the same mode with the Lathe. Its an old one about as old as I am and I am retired. Got it leveled and tested for accuracy and it good. Now I need a New Quick Change Tool Post. Then I will be looking for a follow rest, Tool Bits, Milling Vise attachment, Lathe Dog for flat plate etc etc. For a used Lathe, I am more than satisfied at the moment. Just got done repainting most of it NAVY gray.
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Grumpyvette: I took my SBC block to the engine machine shop, to have the tops of the lifter bosses milled for clearance for the link bar on solid roller lifters. It had a hydraulic cam and solid roller lifters and was told that solid roller camshaft is different than hyd roller camshaft and the two should not be used together.
In your experience what is the difference between the two camshafts with the same specs such that they must be of the same type? Please advise. Thanks.
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Grumpyvette: I believe you are the one that purchased a Milling Machine. If so how are you coming along with it just curious. I purchased a Metal Lathe and am in the process of getting it tuned up and getting the proper tools for it. Please respond. Thanks.
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Comp Cam Pro Mag 1.6RR
It was a 385 stroker.
I don't remember the name of the damper, but it is one that I got through my machine shop and it was one that bolted to the billet hub.
jbc3: Which lifters did you use in this engine? Please advise. Thanks.
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rsicard, the .75" angles are on both sides of the tube running lengthwise.They are something I bent up in my shop.You can find hot rolled angle iron in either 1/2" X 1/2" or the 3/4".
Roostmonkey: Thanks, now I have a plan of attack. Next is to study the Adams book carefully and gain another angle of attack for the Roll Cage.
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Fellows: Thank both of you. Now I can order 1.5 x 3" .090 wall rectangular tube and enough of it to accomplish the strenghening of the 240Z. First per John Coffey's recommendation, is to remove the engine, trans etc. to put remove the strain on the structure and then cut and weld the subframes and outriggers.
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Pick up the book Chassis Engineering by Adams. It's not the most in depth book ever, but it really goes after torsional rigidity and talks about how useless a ladder frame is in torsion. It has balsa wood models to test rigidity of different cage ideas.
Jon: I think I already have that book. Just need to go back and study it CAREFULLY.
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Roostmonkey: Very nice photos. This is exactly the way I want to do my 240Z. I see the outriggers just ahead of the rear wheel well and gives a place to weld the roll cage in the interior. You mentioned .75 x .75" angles. Are these angles on either side of the 1.5x3" rect tube. If so then I understand it completely. Is so, that appears to add more strength to the floor panels. VERY NICE JOB you have done!
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rsicard- are you planning on welding the 2x3 tube to the bottom of the floorpan? If so, as Jon pointed out, you will lose 1.5" of ground clearance. ( stock rails are approx 1/2" tall ).
You fellows are absolutely correct. I went out and took the 2x3 tub with then looked and found the floor pan is lower than the horizontal portion of the lower rocker panel by 1+ inches. Adding 2 inches to that and there are serious issues with ground clearance. Search the forums and found EMWHYR0HEN had done something similar but with 1x3" rectangular tube. Even at that it would be wise to cut the floor pan 3" wide and project the 1x3" rect tube upward by 1/2" into the cabin. Then the original clearance underneath will be maintained. Already have shortened all struts on the 240Z and installed Koni Shocks and 2.5" coil springs per John Coffey's instructions. Just wondering about how to get tubing immediately behind the rocker panels and join it up with outriggers from the 1x3" subframe connectors. Maybe it would be easier overall to just go with Bad Dog subframe connectors. Still concerned about torsional rigidity.
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Roland,
I have no idea where in your car the 2 x 3 subframes are going but the main hoop and door hoops of your roll cage should be tied into the rocker panels, not any subframe that's running nearer the centerline of the car.
NHRA still gives a weight break for 4130 and you can save weight with 1.625" x .083" tubing. If you plan on running your car with most any road race/track sanctioning body here in the US, .083" 4130 tubing is only allowed if the tubing is 1.625" OD. And, BTW, DOM tubing of the same dimensions is allowed so the extra cost of 4130 doesn't get you any weight savings.
EDIT: The above road race tubing dimensions are for a car weighing 1,700 to 2,699 lbs. without driver. If your car weighs in at 2,700 lbs or more then you'll need 1.75" x .095" or 1.625" x .120" wall tubing.
John: The 2x3 rect tubes replace the original subframe rails. I reviewed photos and I stand corrected they only extend downward 1/2 to 3/4". These are only the start of the project to eliminate the bent upward passengers floor and subframe below it. I want to extend outriggers from the 2x3" tubes to accomodate added round tubes that I would like to run behind or tied into the rocker panels. Outriggers will be added both front and rear. If I can, it would be good to go from outside to outside on the rear to cross the longitudinal 2x3" rect tubes and cut sandwich and weld the 2x3 long and cross tubes behind the seats. The round tubes would join outriggers at the front and lateral cross member 2x3 tube at the rear. I want to get a tube bender and standardize on 1.75" tube whether it be 4130 0.083" or 0.120 wall DOM. I will purchase a TIG welder or get someone to use same on the Roll Cage and joining 2x3 rect tubes. Safety is PARAMOUNT and thanks to you have already picked out certified racing seats and belts.
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Gentlemen: The stock 240Z subframe rails are approximately 1.5" tall already. So maybe if I put the 2x3" rect tube BELOW the floor then I will lose 0.5" ground clearance. If the floor is cut to 3.0" across and the 2x3" tube is extended above the floor by 0.5" then there will be nearly no loss of ground clearance. I want to keep the nose of the 240Z as low as possible and put an air dam with splitter to reduce any lift generated underneath the front of the vehicle. I am leaning toward extending the tube above the floor as it makes for a good place to weld the Roll Cage to the rect tubing to torsionally stiffen the whole thing. The strut towers and Roll Cage will also have triangulated stiffening added yielding a more rigid structure. Will try to get lighter weight tubing (.085 4130 steel) above the floor to keep the CG as low as possible.
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Grumpyvette: Sorry for the last post. Am upset with Compcams and the tech rep that I talked to. Went to the local engine shop today and he said that the Compcams hydraulic roller lifters I bought (875-16) were specifically made for performance yet he did not offer any proof of what he was saying. To me, it appeared that Compcams was pulling a slight of hand by documenting into bold print the lifter pre-load of zero to 1/8th turn. With that pre-load it appeared that even the GM factory lifters would not pump up at upper RPMs.
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My intent to use 2x3" rectangular tube is to be able to ALSO weld a Roll Cage to these tubes to ADD torsional STRENGTH, safety and protection. It was only will recently that I learned through pictures how the Bad Dog subframe reinforcements worked. Additionally, my passengers floor and original subframe is bent upwards requiring cutting and removing same and then straightening the bent subframe and welding it back to the floor. Rather than that process, just remove portions of both subframes and fab in 2x3" tubing and weld it in to join the front and rear sturdier structures. Then add a Roll Cage and other ladder frame structural stiffeners. Again, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
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Roostmonkey: Thanks for your comments. If the original subframe channels are not rusted nor bent, then adding the BadDog channels is a good strengthening move. People should uncover the original channels to make certain they have good integrity. If they are rusted through then adding the BadDog channels may add only some integrity i. e. a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
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Heya,
Thanks for the explanation. I kinda thought the Bad Dog piece was a "sub frame connector" but it was always described as a "frame rail". Just a problem with lexicon I suppose. Thanks again for clearing it up. I'll try to ask more interesting questions
qwikrex: I saw a post here on Hybridz concerning the application of Bad Dog subframe reinforcements. With all due respect to the folks here and Bad Dog, after reviewing the posts the Bad Dog parts appeared to be a BANDAID to the original subframe. This reinforced the thinking of cutting out the bent portion of the subframe rail and putting it 2x3" rectangular tubing and welding same to front and rear structures. This should be MUCH stronger than patching with Bad Dog pieces from what I have seen of the pictures on that Web site.
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RSICARD,
As you can see, I use the F.A.S.T. injectors, they are standard length, not pico's. Used the Edelbrock fuel rails that are made for the ProXT came from the tank with a -10 line, split Y into two -8 lines, one for each rail, came out of the front of the rails with two -8 and into an Aeromotive progressive regulator (each 1 lb of boost raises the fuel pressure by 1 psi) and a -8 fuel return line back to the tank.
Thanks Mr. Warren....see ya at the track.
Wayne
rytherwr: Not challenging the usage of standard length Bosch type injectors. The question is with standard length injectors and the Edelbrock fuel rails, where are the fuel rails mechanically attached near the top to stabilize the injectors because the fuel rail is intended to be used and mounted with the Pico injectors? If I can do the same then I may depending on the cost of the standard length injectors. Please advise. Thanks.
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The Small Block Chevrolet was introduced in 1955. Even now it is still popular as a Gen I configuration. The Gen III and Gen IV in Racing Corvettes are winning races and they are PUSH ROD engines NOT overhead cam engines! If you turbo charge or super charge them the power increases substantially. For the compactness of the engine it can produce much power. NASCAR is still using the Small Block Chev with Pushrods and still winning. The most prevalent problem with NASCAR engines is the valve springs. The overhead cam appears to be nothing more than hype. Formula 1 is something different because it DOES NOT have valve springs but has overhead cams.
New to the World of Z cars (Bought a 240Z pic's inside)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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logan1: Looks as though you got a good one. Just be smart and gentle about pulling it apart when restoring it and little damage will be done. Suggest cleanup and use Rust Bullet on the rusty spots. I have an early 1971 and your center console is the same as mine. I am in the process of rebuilding and modifying it. First took care of all the neglect. Now it runs and drives fine. Next proceed with the Mods.
If you need help just shout on Hybrid Z forum and you will get all the answers you need.