datsun280zx81

I'm not sure where to put this. Hope it's in the right spot. I'm moving to a new house and can't take all my stuff. Everything I'm going to list is FREE to somebody who will use it. It is PICK UP ONLY because I'll probably never get around to shipping it. I am located in New Port Richey, FL. I have: -2 L28 computers (A11-621 601 0Z06 L28 and A11-639 800 2117 L28) -1 Z31 computer with wiring harness (A18-635 654k 7603) -1 pair of MacPherson struts for early Z NIB (240,260, or 280?) Part Number 365013 KYB -1 in line MSD fuel pump PN 2225 -1 Chilton's Import Car Repair Manual 1980-1987 If they're not gone in 48 hours I have to get rid of them. I'd rather they go somewhere they can be used rather than the dump. If you're interested e-mail me at tommywhitehall@gmail.com. I will post if any items are gone.

No problem. I'm hoping somebody can luck out with this car or loan me the money so I can get it I wish I would have seen it before I bought my motorcycle four months ago. It's one or the other, can't have both

I was glancing at the classic auto trader this morning and I came across this:http://www.autotraderclassics.com/details/?adId=90539380 I wish I had the money to get this right now. Just thought I'd share, not sure if this is in the right section. Sorry it's a 280z. Don't want to get bashed

Me too please. I need the shell or running Z. I have a L28ET already.

Nice find. I wish I had 2K to go get it.

That's crazy! It's people like that that give anybody with a nice sports car a bad name.

It's official IMDB is listing it as in the works http://imdb.com/title/tt1013752/

I have a turbo motor for sale in the classifieds that you can buy to put in a 240z. Heck if you buy it I'll even throw in a 280z shell. You have to ship both though.

IDK how much you mean by surge but I'm sure there is a fair amount of kids trying to copy the actors in the movie. I just hope they don't try to copy the stunts in the third FnF. Some of those mountain drift scenes are nuts to try without proper training.

You pretty much said it. If you were doing the JDM vs. American drifting theme what cars would you guys go with. New models only.

Yes they are making another one! Like we didn't see it comming. http://www.auto-focus.us/autoblog/?p=118

Thanks for the info but I heard bad stuff about that place. You said that your inlaws friends had good luck with them?

I am looking for a mechanic in the Tampa Bay area that is qualified to take on installing a standalone EMS on a heavily modded 280zxt or somebody that sells premade harnesses for a 280zxt that go to a big name stand alone like AEM so I can put it on myself then have it tuned. Thanks.

Replied, let me know if you are still interested in any parts.

Just letting everybody know that I am parting out a 1978 280z. Everything must go! The only items I don't have anymore is the wiper motor and the wiper arms. If you are interested contact me at tomzxt@hotmail.com or on ebay under datsun280zx81 and make an offer on any part. I only accept cash and paypal.

I love the way you have the gills, teeth, and paint scheme to match. As for the hood thanks for putting one more option out for the Zs. I'm sure you will make a few Z owners happy.

Thanks for your replies. They all seem to be consistant with 13's being the fastest time possible with a good driver and tires. The vehicle has street radials and a mild driver IMO so I will assume that the best he can do is 13's. My 280zxt did high 13's before heavy modifications. Now I have a whole lot of stuff done to it and in theory it will run high 11's low 12's minimum. Thanks for all your help.

What would your best guess be on how much hp/torque and 1/4 times be of a second generation 300zx non turbo body with a twin turbo motor with non turbo drive shaft/tranny/rear end, an underdrive pulley, 2 1/2" exhaust make @ 15lbs? I am having a grudge match with a friend against his and that's what he has. I need to know what to beat I'm figuring about 12's in the 1/4 but want to confirm it.

I'm still not sure what it could be so I took some advice from other people. Even though they are new injectors they might be stuck so I am going to let the tips soak in gasoline over night to see if that frees them up a bit. Also I ordered a new higher performance fuel pump that should assist in opening them if they are stuck as well. While ordering the fuel pump I ran accross this article that may help anybody with this situation in the future since so many people were willing to help me with my problem . It explains how injectors work, it's from the site http://osdir.com/ml/recreation.cars.toyota.mods/2005-06/msg00004.html Re: Can't get my 4age injectors to fire Subject: Re: Can't get my 4age injectors to fire In a message dated 6/2/05 12:56:58 AM Central Daylight Time, vazfx16-/E1597aS9LQAvxtiuMwx3w@public.gmane.org writes: My turbo project is back together, but now it seems my injectors are not firing. I intentionally reduced the number of things that I had to undo during the build up to prevent something like this. But here I am. What voltage should the injector see with the ig is in position 1? What voltage should they see when cranking? What would stop them for firing off? Nothing in my shop manual really gets into the injector not firing, where should I begin? This is from 3 year old memories. There is either 2 or 3 sensors depending on the model of 4AGE. All three would be NE, G1 and G2. They are either all in the distributor or one may be on the front of the crank. They give a number of pulses per revolution of the engine. If you are getting spark, they are most likely all working. One is a fast pulse used to track enigne speed for accurate timing even while accelerating. The next one is a single pulse every time any piston comes to TDC to sync the sytem. The last one if it has a G2 is a single pule when cylinder 1 is at TDC of the power stroke. It is used to sync sequential injection. The ECU uses these pulses to calculate when to fire the spark. A pulse on the IGT line fires the igniter/coil to make the spark. When a spark occurs the igniter then makes a pulse on the IGF line back to the ECU. The ECU will not fire the injectors if it does not get IGF pulses. This is a safety to make sure it is not spraying fuel into a dead motor. One side of all four injectors gets battery voltage when they are not firing. The other side will also measure battery voltage when no current is flowing. The ECU uses a transsistor to pull the secnd side of the injector to ground to pull current and open the injector. The injectors can be either high impedance which will measure 10 to 20 ohms across the leads, or low impeadance which will measure under 5 ohms across them. High ohm injector will be straight frmo battery to ECU and will have a full 12 volts acros them while spraying. Low ohm ones will have a resistor pack between the battery voltage and the injector. This is to limit the curent to about 1 amp per injector when open. Low ohm injectors operate much faster allowing shorter pulses so they are typically used on higher performance engines which need bigger injectors. Most 4SGE's used low ohm with the resistor pack. If you have a 12 volt test light, you sould be able to connect it to ground and touch each injector wire. It should light at all 8 wires when the engine is not running but the key is on. Now connect the clip to battery voltage and probe the leads while it is cranked. One side will probably never light (the 12 volt side) but may make a faint flicker on resistor pack setups. The other side of the injectors (The ECU driver side) should give a solid flash every revolution of the engine on non sequential, or every two revolutions on sequential engines. The pulses are very short. If you have no IGF signal, they should still fire a couple times and then quit. During cranking, the pulses are basically fixed as the AFM will barely move until the rpm comes up. Some cars (not sure about Toyotas) will turn off the injectors if the throttle is wide open during cranking. So a TPS problem may also cause no injection. This is the "clear flood" mode on GM's. I hope this helps. Gary M.

I have a 1981 280zxt with a bunch of mods that I just got done installing. Everthing works exept the injectors aren't opening to let fuel in. They are RX-7 86-87 Turbo 550cc Low impedence injectors. I tested the injectors with a meter. There are two pins each when tested came out to 12.13V. Are they suppost to both have voltage running thought them? If so how do they ground? Is there a CAS or something similar that I can check to make sure that it works? Any suggestions why they won't open?

Is there a good picture of the bottom piping somewhere?

This one doesn't sound too bad. I'll have to check it out. Thanks.

I could use this item if I ONLY change the MAF to a Z31? I'm trying to avoid installing the Z31 ECU I have right now.

http://www.jazzproparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=401-A917 Has anybody used a SAFC NEO to control larger injectors on a 280zxt with the stock ECU? If so how did it work out for you. Anybody that knows about this item could you tell me if that would be a good idea? Thanks.