fisheric

Sorry but what do you mean by RTV?

well, i am having some trouble getting the valve cover off. The current gasket is a "gasket-in-a-can" type. I have removed the other bolts and cannot find a good spot to pry the valve cover off. Then i just gave up for awhile cause I got busy, but tomorrow I am gonna attempt it again. I am really hoping that the screw did not bottom out. Any tips on getting the valve cover off without damaging it?

Its okay... I just spent a year and I only just yesterday got it to say all OK for the first time. I didn't have washer fluid and It seems like I had to put coolant into an extra reservoir which seemed stupid, but I just wanted to try to get the red light to go away finally.

One more question. Do I need to use specific cutting oil or can I use 3-in-1 general purpose, or wd-40? I am currently unemployed so if I can do something cheaper than I need to. However, I do understand that by spending too little to begin with you will spend more in the long run. Unfortunately at this point if I can save $5 by not having to buy a bottle of cutting oil than I would need to

grumpyvette, Yeah the reverse twist is what I meant when I called it a lefty bit. I don't have any but... The thing I am worried about is I really cranked that bolt down because as I am sure you all know the design of that valve cover is terrible. There needs to be 1 or 2 more bolts at the very end of the cover because oil leaks out. Thats why I was really putting alot of torque on it. The reason I bring this up is why get the reverse twist(is that the same as a left handed drill bit?) if I put so much torque on the bolt that I broke the head off? Why not use a standard bit and then use the easy out? I was not familiar with the easy out until I followed the link you sent me. I think I might actually have one in my tool box and just never knew what it was. waddiejohn, Sorry I wasn't more clear. I was tightening a new gasket down and the bolt did break off flush with the umm.... what do I call the part that the valve/crank cover bolts on to? Anyway it is broken off flush with that. Hitting the bolt with a center punch so that it doesn't walk on me is a good idea I wouldn't have thought of. Thanks for that. Could you elaborate a little bit on what you mean by: Well tomorrow or the day after I am actually going to attempt this procedure. I am really dreading it. What really irritates me is that the whole reason I was putting a new gasket on is because oil kept leaking out the end closest to the firewall. So I was trying to fix it and just made things worse. Thanks alot for everyone's help so far. I am gonna read those links from grumpy and then check back here before I start drilling.

I bought a can of gasket material because my valve cover was leaking out of the top left corner and the guy at the store recommended the stuff. While applying it I broke off a bolt flush. I have a nice cordless drill and a couple cheap bit sets. I don't have any lefty bits, not that I think it would help. I don't currently have a tap/die set but I think I could get one. What is the proper way to do this procedure? Car is an 81 280zx, bolt is the upper right corner if standing at the front bumper

ok then. We both experienced the same problem after working on the turn signal switch. We now know for sure that is where the problem is.

So did you have your problem before or after you changed the switch?

I am still having the same problem that I had before which is the same as yours. My whole problem started when I took apart the turnsignal branch off the steering wheel and put it back together trying to fix an unrelated problem. First the buzzing used to go every 20 secs. Then it became a constant buzzing. It goes away in reverse, my radio is just fine. When i turn the turn signals on the buzzing will buzz to the beat of the turn signals. Buzz, buzz, buzz. But the turn signals don't work. I have looked at the turnsignal branch several times, but just cannot figure out what went wrong and where.

I appreciate everyones responses, but I think that I am going to have to limit my options to northern california. I just can't afford to ship all these parts. Also Id like to find one person who has a doner car that I can get all my parts for. And if anyone local has all the parts when I do the swap they can have the auto and parts. my tranny has 125000 on it and runs great.

Nick, What year is this gear? It looks like it is in pretty good shape.

PMs sent and Replied to

Hello, I have a 1981 280zx turbo with the stock 3 speed automatic . I basically need all the parts required to do the swap. Right now I have none of them. I need the parts to be in good condition of course. Especially the clutch and transmission. If one person has all the parts I would need I can work out a good deal with them. Im located in Sacramento, CA Thanks Everyone. I Look Forward To Hearing From You.

therustedguage I am experiencing the buzzing on my 1981 280zxt. it goes away when my 3 speed auto goes into reverse. I have all the same symptoms as you except my radio works fine. It is a stock nissan radio. Please tell me what you did to solve it. It is driving me crazy.