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clsatt

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Everything posted by clsatt

  1. it's .010 intake and .012 exhaust. I did mine not too long ago and they still make noise, I like to tell myself it's just a noisy engine. it doesn't take too long to do and there is a good how-to on one of the ztherapy videos. chris
  2. I've seen those but have no idea how to install them. anyone have a link to a tutorial?
  3. there have been a lot of posts in the last couple weeks on carburated turbo setups. I plan to put one on my 1970 240z. I'll document the process with lots of pictures and I'll write something up at the end to describe all my shortcomings. first, I need to get my car to a point where it can handle a boosted setup. I have no idea where to begin. I only plan on running about 6 or 7 lbs of boost tops and I don't expect big HP. I'm doing this for the experience and the piece of mind that there is something a little different than most Zs out there. couple things I know I need to find out; first, how do I run a boost guage? what kind of sending unit is required, or what do you reccomend? second, for those of you who have fabbed an aftermarket turbo setup, what is the best way to run the oil lines? actually, I think that's it. reccomendations are always welcome. please don't tell me to go EFI. thats not an option I'm going to get into. I'm getting new suspension soon so this could be a slow process. as in I won't have two cents to rub together when this is all over. but I'll try to keep you all posted once I start the project. Oh, the starting point will mostlikely be the setup that Spyder Z 15 is selling, you can see some pictures on one of his last posts. wish me luck, chris
  4. yeah, the used one. that sounds great, I'll get an idea of what it's worth to me after I see a couple more shots.
  5. http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page25.html check this out
  6. I'd buy the manifold and the adapter off you next month... well, depending on what you want for em. shoot me a PM when you come up with a price.
  7. if it works I'd love to do one of my own. make sure to take lots of pictures. if I knew how to weld I'd allready have one. ha. good on ya, chris
  8. if you're skilled with a welder you might be able to make something along those lines. check out this http://www.turbocity.com/default.php?cPath=62 . its for a VW but the concept is what your talking about. you might be able to fab the piping using the stock manifolds. run a Y pipe from the turbo to your SU manifold and you got it. I havn't tried this nor have I done any "real" research to see it this would work or even fit. best of luck, chris
  9. well, my brakes fixed. I replaced the MC and everything s as it should be. I also adjusted that rod while I was at it. thanks guys, chris
  10. I havn't bled the master, honestly because I didn't know how. I'll try that today. and I'll adjust that rod while I'm at it. unless the long throw could have caused the reaction disk to fall out, it'll still be there, after reading all the horror stories on here about them, I made sure that it was in place propperly when I installed the new booster. these suggestions are great, if you come up with anything else let me know. I'll tell you how these ones work out. thanks, chris
  11. I forgot to mention what the car was... 1970 240z, stock brake system.
  12. I have soggy brakes. when I bought the car I assumed it was a reaction disk issue, checked that it was fine. so I plugged everything back in and tried them again. sounded like I had a vaccume leak, I replaced the vaccume line and valve. still sounded leaky so I bought a new booster. I still have soggy brakes. I have tried the valve both ways, it changes the feel of the pedal but doesn't do a damn thing for the actuall stopping power of the car. it almost feels like I have manual brakes. what I know is that there isn't a leak in the lines. I know that the front pads are new, and the guy I bought the car from told me he rebuilt the cylinder shortly before he had to sell it. I must have bled the lines 8 times. when I push the pedal there is no resistance through the first 2/3 of the stroke, then it feels like brakes should but it never really builds up a good deal of pressure. if I stop standing on them (litterally standing on them) on a hill I'll start to roll backwards. also if I pump them about three or four times it feels like I have good pressure but with a fifth push I feel a pop at the botem of the stroke, like I just blew all that pressure by a seal. thats all I can think of. if anyone can diagnose this I would be greatfull. thanks, chris
  13. that does look good! I do like a clean engine bay, but another reason I don't like efi is all the wires. I hate computers on cars. I'd rather have my ears and ass tell me whats going on with it and be able to tune it with a screwdriver and a hunk of scrap vaccuum hose I have lying around. (yes, I still sync my carbs the old fasioned way) I don't know, I just prefer the old school fuel systems. can it be done? chris
  14. ok, I know it wouldn't look stock... but it would look more at home in an early Z if it has fiewer gadgets and a jacked up flat black valve cover. meh?
  15. I'm on kind of a "stock look" kick right now. I was wondering if it's possible to carb an rb and still get it to run, maybe get aroud 225hp out of it? I'm not really much of a turbo junkie and I hate wires. besides, I think it would be bad ass seeing a tripple webber set on it. nice clean engine bay... Am I out of my mind? anything, thanks, chris
  16. I probably won't do it for a while, I have a new booster on the way. it is something I'd be interested in doing somewhere down the line. thanks, chris
  17. thats exactly what I was thinking. lol
  18. good plan, take a copy with me to the dmv.
  19. any thoughts, is it a matter of taste or is there some benefit to it? just trying to educate my self, thanks, chris
  20. I don't know whats up with the pic, I'm using kodak if that could be something to do with it. I spoke to the folks at the dmv about registering it as an antique and the told me that not only do I have to have another vehicle registered, I'm also limmited to 250 miles per month and can only drive it to and from shows or to get repair work done. I also asked about same year tags. those I guess are the same as regular tags, ie, inspections and soforth. I found some one that is willing to send me an ebrake off of an old parts car they have. hopefully it'll be here in about a week. I guess worst case senario, they won't pass me on a number of things, I'll just get the antique tags so I can still work on it and drive it on ocation. at least till all the little inspection things are worked out. thanks, chris
  21. I was looking at the wilwood brakes on ArizonaZCar. so, I started looking at other wilwood products avalable and noticed on all of the instalation pages on thier site they never mentioned a brake booster/master vac. question is, has anyone run a 240/260/280 on just a master cylinder without the booster? how does it feel, how does it perform? thanks, chris
  22. Anybody? I'm hoping to get it inspected the first week of April. even with out grid paper, I just need a picture to get an idea. thanks, chris
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