Daeron
-
Posts
2148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Daeron
-
-
Before then I was selling Koni's to folks in Europe because the US prices plus shipping and duty fees were cheaper then buying the shocks locally.
How DARE those filthy euros take advantage of our fragile economic infrastructure like that!!!!!!
/sarcasm off
-
that was around my guess, but I was hoping for something a little lower out of sixth.
still..... OOooompy.
-
Wow.. Sir, I am not a fan of HID headlights in the least, and even less a fan of retrofitting them into an older vehicle (personal tastes, I hate the light) but that was a NICE job! Quick, easy, cheap, and effective!
-
Do some searching for info on the E31. It is a sought after head for the N/A L28 builders. It enables a high compression and I believe has a nice quench pattern. The valves may need to be increased, but a decent machine shop should be able to handle that with no problems.
+1000, I was going to suggest the same thing.
Have the E31 head taken to a machine shop, have larger valves and hardened seats installed, and have that head prepped. Despite my post count or any other impression to the contrary, I am not exactly that hands-on experienced, so I use this engine calculator as a crutch and let it do all my thinking for me:
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
I can not certify it is dead accurate, but according to that a piston with zero dish/dome yields just under 8.5:1 on a stock P90.. and a zero volume piston equals 10.1:1 compression on a stock E31 head.
If that is a little high for your tastes (sounds just about sweet to me, if you find the right cam and put a nice distributorless ignition on it but I don't know what you really want to bother with) then you can always have a little meat taken out of the piston, but I would recommend doing that not in a circular, symmmetrical fashion, but rather offset to the valve side of the piston. This gives you a 3-dimensional "peanut" shaped combustion chamber that ought to work, just fantastic.
Whatever you do, the E31 is probably your best bet for an easy, high performance NA head. The biggest reason it isn't talked about so much these days is because they aren't incredibly easy to find, and alot of the heads that ARE available fetch a slight premium because they are useful in 240Z class restricted racecars. In other words, the E31 head is only ever written off because its hard to find; if you have one, then its a GREAT head to work with once you get it to breathe with some larger valves and appropriate port massaging.
-
Whats the final overdrive ratio on the transmission in top gear??? I am beginning to wonder about top speed with a VQ, a six speed gearbox and 3.54 rears....
-
What about a weld-in patch for the spot weld area above the rear quarter panel windows that always rusts out?? Maybe thats a *little* ambitious...
What about a lower rocker panel, ie, below the door? Is that already available? (I don't pay too much attention to sheetmetal and whats out there...)
-
-
Meh, as long as its got a relatively low mineral content......
I *do* like the switch with the elite weapons-grade safety cover though. touche..
-
Check out the Bosch stuff in Volvos/BMW/Mercedes as well, Tefzel insulated wires, much better rubber on the backside boots, quick release injector clips.
SHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-
you don't need fuel pressure, you just need to keep your float bowls full.
Have you checked for proper function of the timing advance mechanism?? electronic ignition is REALLY the #1 A-1 swap o do on a points-sparked Z.
-
Hey I have the Same rims on my S30 I just bought this car as a project car .. I want Rewinds or something that looks like it. anyone wanna trade
THAT!!!!!!!
is what a well-flared 240Z looks like!!!!!!!
-
There is no factory starter relay.
There is a main EFI relay that clicks on with the key, and if I am not mistaken clicks OFF in the START position and back on in RUN.
The problem lies in eventual buildup of resistance in the solder joint and wiring connections in the starting circuit. In the end, you are left with a vehicle than cannot communicate enough amperage at 12VDC to get the job done at the solenoid. It puts 12VDC there, enough to check voltage.. but not enough to even push the solenoid contacts together. However, this minimal amperage is MORE than sufficient to power a small bosch four prong relay, which can switch battery power to your solenoid terminal.
You basically have a wire coming off of your pushbutton switch, going straight to the starter right?? It doesn't matter if you hooked up that wire from the EFI relay or from whatever other 12V switched power source. What matters is that you get 12VDC to the starter with the key in the ON or START position.
Relay amperage doesn't really matter, I don't think it even sees 10 amps. What I would do is get a 30 or whatever amp relay, and protect the circuit with the fuse you add. Start with a 10 amp, and if that doesn't blow then your fine. You could step down to 7.5 or 5 and see if that blows under normal use.. but 10 is sufficiently small to be safe, and almost certainly more than enough to start it.
-
I am virtually positive that the relay has nothing to do with the starter circuit on our cars.
I had this identical problem on my 87 Subaru.. It would frequently give me a click, click, click, then finally third or fourth try--Start! eventually the starter died, and I replaced it with a JY unit. The next day it was total DOA again, so I had to use the screwdriver to get around.
I solved it by ADDING a starter relay. I always had 12V to my solenoid wire when I hit the key, but it still wouldn't engage the solenoid enough to get it to perform its switching function.. so I put in a four prong bosch relay, with fused power tap straight off the battery, signaled by the original solenoid wire. The output wire of the relay went to the starter solenoid terminal, and I never had a starting issue again. The relay took the place of me and my screwdriver.
I can't see what (in your situation) involved the main relay; but I may be getting my wiring harnesses confused, and your 74 (with its interlock system) may well be different from my 75 and ITS interlock system.
Personally I would far rather be using a relay on this circuit than a switch in the cabin... but that is an argument to which there IS no end. I would say it goes without question that adding the relay is the safer, "better" route, but Nissan switched the load through the cabin so it is hard to argue that a pushbutton is "unsafe." Personally I don't care much for it, but don't have a problem either... I would simply never install one into one of my cars unless I also had a bluetooth wireless "key" like late model nissans do.. and when I did, the pushbutton would operate a relay under the hood
-
As quoted in the HP book "Aerodynamics" authored by Forbes Aird (from pages 42 and 43):
I bolded the text where it comes closest to answering your question but I put the rest in there to help explain everything. An example would be if you had an IC that was 10"H X 24"W your duct needs to be 10" long and the opening of the duct (at one sixth size) would be 1 3/4"H X 4"W or as large as (at one half size) 5"H X 12"W which would probably be better for what you want. In my interpretation of what is said the angle of the IC does not matter as long as the inlet hole for the ducting is centered in front of the IC and the ratio that is used in the example above is followed.
Excellent post, but I have to correct your mathematics; its an easy slip-up, and I had to triple check myself to make sure you were wrong and I was right.
A core 10"x24" has an area of 240 sq inches. You would therefore be looking for an opening with an area around 40-120 square inches, which would vary from 4"x10" to say, 8"x15". 5x12=60 sq inches, 1 3/4x4=7 square inches!!!
You forgot squaring
-
Hell, my key comes out in any position!! All the way left, middle, and all the way right!! Guess thats not a good thing. Just one more thing on the list of things to fix.
Bah!
If I had a nickel for every time I was thankful that my Z let me take me keys out whenever I wanted, I could get her painted. If I was REALLY worried about it, I took the keys and locked the doors leaving her running. Yah, I suppose the rare occasion that I actually locked the doors with it running I ran a risk of something catastrophic going wrong and not being able to jump in real quick and cut the key/pop the hood/whatever.. but nothing ever came of it, and THAT isn't a very common scenario.
-
Just be certain of a few things.. I would imagine that blue's tech tips page on atlanticZ's website would have the reference material, if not directly there on the page then in the EFI bible available for download there...
First off, make sure you get a Throttle Position Switch, not a Throttle Position Sensor. One is a pair of switches, one for "Idle" position, one for "WOT" position, and no contact on either indicates "Cruise" to the ECU. The TP Sensor is more like a volume knob, sending a variable signal indicating how far the throttle is open. Our L-jetronic system uses the older, switch type.
Second, make sure that the switch operates in the right direction. (Although some wiring changes *should* be sufficient to rectify this potential issue.)
Third, make sure the switch open/close points are relatively close to original.
If all that works then it ought to be A-OK.. theoretically you could replace the TPS with a two way switch run on the fly by the driver in the cabin and it would FUNCTION.. you just run the risk of going lean or rich when you fail to adjust the switch acccordingly.
-
balance tube?
-
There was also a "Nissan 2400 OHC" OEM nissan valve cover that looked alot like our stock "Nissan OHC" covers IIRC, its probly all in the CZcars.com thread
Edit
Wow the difference in those two NISSAN blocky valve covers is subtle...
-
Don't forget to check valve adjustment.
-
BTW, Many finns have invaded hybridZ...
That makes me think......
The city of Lake Worth, Florida (supposedly? I verified it somewhere, at some point, but I can't place 100% confidence in this factoid) has the largest community of Finnish persons outside of Finland in the world.
I've known lots of Finns and always found them to be exceptionally pleasant, enjoyable, and downright friendly people.. but if any of you folks have relatives over here that you should happen to visit, West Palm Beach is right next door to Lake Worth, and you guys are more than welcome to drop me or my brother (cobra_tim) a line if you'd like to visit and talk Datsun. Or, if you could use a Datsun friend state-side and know someone local.. Just putting the offer out there!
-
-
It is STILL a very good idea to coat the inside of the tank. It might cost $50 bucks, but you have already done ALOT of work taking it off and have more to do to put it on. Sealing it now ensures that it won't leak, rust, or get crudded up again in the future.
Its like replacing a timing belt and leaving the old water pump on there. (obviously on a different motor, but im trying to convey a point
) -
When viewed from the back of the car, the R180 is pronouncedly rectangular in shape, roughly the proprtions of a playing car standing upright, or a capital D. A fat capital D. R200s are pretty much squarish.
If you REALLY want to know, go to the junkyard and find a 300ZX or a 240SX, those are all 200s. The FAQ post had a side by side photo of them IIRC.
-
OOOoooOOOoooOOOO!!! SO not fair!
Them thangs sher are purdy!!!
Have I mentioned my idea with a manifold like this, to use the TB flanges off of stock EFI manifolds (with the egg-shaped hole) and find the dual stage TBs that were sold in JDM market (little guy for low throttle and a big guy that opens on high throttle)
I was thinking that it COULDNT be too hard to build an SU-type airbox that had horns for the larger bore (about 40mm?) out into the main plenum area, and then pipe the smaller primary butterflies into long skinny tracts going around the outer circumferences of the airbox/plenum, and then opening out into the main volume... thus giving you a nice loooong airway for low throttle application and then transferring to a short shot in for WOT application.... The biggest problem I could find with this idea (if it were set up by someone who could do the engineering and math to establish proper length tuning) was the air entry into our plenum area in the Z car engine bay. Ideally I would think a centered entry coming from the top would be best, and it MIGHT be do able but it would be such a trick piece by the time you were finished..... impractical to say the least.
Another filter thought that just occurred would be even more of a mimicry of the stock SU "airbox..." which is just a plate on the carbs, a round filter, and then a covering box. Make a backplate that includes the horns and piping as I described, then set the filter cartridge around it all and then a top plate, just like stock... Hmmm...
EGT Monitoring/Tuning/Logging
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
This car wants EGT sensors, not O2. Thats my gut feel at least. And not to contradict what tonyd said about analog gauges, but to me one of the [pinnacles of having a nice, old skool setup is a dual EGT gauge with needles that sweep against each other :
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westduals2.php
(you can see what he meant about the difference between 1285 and 1320)