Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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maybe "coolant flow" rather than "cooling flow?"
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meh, reference is the red-headed stepchild of the infiniti automotive speaker world. if you like references, you'll LOVE kappas... Trebles so crisp they'll make yer eardrums bleed.
You haven't LIVED until you've heard Lucy In The Sky With Diamonds at 75 volume on an eclipse deck (it goes to 100, but 50-55 is deafeningly insane..)
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This is exactly what i'm trying to avoid by starting with an all metal frame. No flexing of the piece and no hours on end trying to fix it after every drive. That has been my worry of using an existing air dam as a base from the start. even with a plate sealing off the bottom of the air dam like i plan i don't think that it would stop flexing enough to not ruin the fiberglass or paint, even with flex addatives to each.
Sorry no more pictures of that car. just saw the grill and it was exactly what i had in mind for mine and saved the one picture that showed the grill.
My old man was taking a front valance, an air dam, two headlight buckets, two fenders, a hood, and a wiper cowl and molding them into one single piece front end.
that is A MILLION times more complex than what you are proposing, and involves warpping a shell around the entire stressed front unibody of the car.
I don't see how you plan on getting curves right without using a mold of some sort, but whatever, it's your ballgame.
By "mold" I don't mean necessarily anything necessarily re-useable, professional, beyond your expertise, or otherwise unecessarily difficult... just something that you can easily shape, and then lay your glass down into.If you just start with a couple of kinks in an aluminum frame, you are going to be spending HOURS building up the curves, sanding them down to try to make it look right, and you will probably wind up with a fairly heavy piece in the end. If you take someones junky fiberglass air dam and wrap a single thin sheet of cloth around the leading face of it to flatten the front, you take an already stable and sturdy piece and just give it a new fascia.
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The worst part is Al wrote the ad. Al put the car in the shape it was delivered in, and Al claims no responsibility for any of it...He wrote the ad for the car stating that he made it an award winning restoration, but takes no credit for the wording of the ad, nor how car came out...now that should tell everyone about the PRIDE he takes in his work.
Read the ClassicZcars thread, Look at the pictures and deside for yourself if what AL did was acceptable. His local Better Business Bureau, several of his past buyers, and more of those who left good feedback before realizing what they got was not what they paid for don't think so.
Will+
Will
I don't think you understood my point.. my point is that
A: it REALLY doesnt take alot of people INSTANTLY pissed to show that you are a worthless vendor
and
B: More people have had negative dealings with him than have reported such via his ebay feedback..
And I know that I have seen as many people say that they have left positive feedback, and regretted it, as I have seen actual complaints.In other words, 22 people have left negative feedback.. I havent seen ALL of those people discuss this guy, but I know that I have seen more people say "I WISH I hadn't left positive feedback," then I have seen people say, "I left negative feedback." Like Naviathan above. So just from this thread, that is now 23 people instead of 22, and 4347 "opsitive" experiences rather than 4348.
While I must admit that I would LOVE to be worried about these "tiny details" that the buyer is concerned about (tongue in cheek, my car is a POS) I am fully on the buyer's side here. If *I* had paid ~20K for a '70 240Z I would want it to be in better shape, and more closely match the posted description, as well...
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.005% of 4360 is 22 people... make those 22 people mad enough to be instantaneously mortified, and they tell a dozen people each, and you have over 250 people who know how bad you are.
How many members do we even HAVE here? 10,000?? If so, then 250 is 2.5 % of the members here.
Statistics are EASY to manipulate.
And I know that I have seen as many people say that they have left positive feedback, and regretted it, as I have seen actual complaints.
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I just re read my post, and realized that I didn't convey the overall FLATNESS of the air dam, and the fact that it was largely one smooth plane from the upper corner of the "jawbone" through to the bottom, where it edged out slightly. In other words, take the MSA air dam I pictured, and cut the thing off say, right down flush below the turn signal. Then do that with my dad's.. and you see my dads is MUCH more of a flat line in cross section, nowhere near as much of the "zig-zagging" (from fore to aft) you would see in the MSA piece.
Also, it sounded MUCH more "thrown together" than it was in the end. My dad spent about two years or more while driving the car, then about another year while racing it (before going with the G-nose) constantly massaging it, eliminating any flex cracks or tendency towards flex cracking, shaving weight where it wasn't needed, and squaring look of the thing up. In the end, the concept of boxy doesn't even come close, until you REALLY try to compare it side by side to a stock sheetmetal front end.
I always had a custom-made grill like the one you showed in mind, and I think he did too, but it never materialized.
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I GOTTA get my dad to dig up pictures of the grey ghost with his one-piece front end on it. We still have the front end (and hopefully its going on my car one day? HAHA) but it is hanging hood side against the wall, headlights pointing up, on the interior wall of the loft we have that covers the back 1/4 of our "shop...."
It was (I think) a multi piece fiberglass front end kit with a fiberglass stock-looking valance, and a custom made air dam, both of which had seen better days. My dad takced everything to his car, got some cloth, and pieced it all together into one.
I got him to look at these pictures earlier today, and he says his airdam was largely that flat, except it was ducted. MY recollection is that it looked ALOT like this MSA fiberglass air dam:
Now, he specified that there was a small lip that wrapped around from the bottom and up into the mild flare of the front fender.. in other words, one complete smooth line. *I* seem to recall the slight recession that runs from the ducts to the flattened license plate spot, but I may be wrong. (The "valley" along the center of the "ridge" that is the air dam)
Anyhow, it was in the end an AMAZING looking one piece fiberglass front end. The hood was a home-plate shaped (plus cutouts for the inspection lids, the "hood" had little winglets there.. so it actually looked almost like a Space Invader ship pointing in the direction of travel) affair that, when opened, exposed the radiator/crossmember but not much else to the front, and went all the way to the stock cabin-end hood location. The front end was made with essentially a square box going from the back of the air dam to the radiator crossmember, easy to seal. No accommodation for 240 style turn signals was made, even though the car was a 70 240. I think he had little generic amber light modules mounted in the top corners of the totally squared grille opening, and I can't recall any grill on there. The front "tip" of the air dam matched the front "tip" that would have been hoodline, but the entire nose was shortened and blunted a *tiiiiny* bit.
Sound interesting?????
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Please use a proper subject header in your posts.
Something Like ..
READ: why you should not purchase from "DatsunParts" on eBay!
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That opening in the front is MORE than adequate to allow airflow into the radiator.
I would try to find an airdam that someone had that was buggered up and fugly, maybe cracked fiberglass or something, and then rivet some sheetmetal onto that, and pop a mold off for making a fiberglass airdam. That seems about the most viable method IMHO, but it IS alot of work... It seems to me that altering your standard MSA airdam would be the easiest way to go, one way or another.
My dad has a one-piece fiberglass front end that he salvaged, repaired, and bonded a glass airdam onto. He then basically "flattened" the front of it much like that, but I cannot visualize how much contour was left. I will ask him about it tomorrow.
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The seafoam was an attempt to remedy the smoking.
Bob, I would highly recommend you just find an L28 from an NA 280ZX to throw your cammed E31 onto and call it a day. You may find that you want to run higher octane fuel than you want, but my guess is that would land you around 200ish horses, and guess what? in a 240Z thats PLENTY... with 200 horses, its time to work on the suspension.
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actually you can get a 9 led mini light thats metal and fits in the palm of your hand from advanced auto parts and its only 2.99 i think....it looks like its the exact size of the under the hood light and can probably be easily modified to be powered by the original wires so you can still unraval it and move it to where you want to....fyi i bought this flashlight im talking about and its freaking bright and the batterys never go dead
Word!! This is a battery powered light you are talking about?? What kind/how many batteries?
Oh yah, btw.... Thread, JACKED!!! mwahahahaaa
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I figured so about the Z not needing the 4.11 too badly. But the s12 does need it more; they never came with the KA, but the CA and VG series engines. The s12 came with the ca20e, ca18et, and vg30e here in the U.S.
I KNEW I was getting wires crossed!! I've been looking at sentras lately and had my chassis designations all schmutzed.
(greatest smiley EVARRR!!)Well, unless youve got the VG, my point still stands, heh. BTW I WANT one of those cars BADLY. AE86 eat yer heart out.
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These clutches are very strong. They are used in 800+ hp dirt late model cars. My question is the streetabilty of it. Theres no slipping the clutch for an easy take off. They are on or off and they squeel but I am sure they used a different clutch material to address that.
Thats funny..... When I saw this thread had come up in my subscribed threads list, my initial reaction was "Well, hey, that one kinda stalled...."
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Juuuuuust right!!!!
:2thumbs::2thumbs:except for the shifter IMHO, but everything else gets perfect style points.
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S12 buddy, it will answer your prayers and wishes. I have the s12 turbo and it's a perty sweet ride. I've been thinking about swapping my s12 r200 4.11 diff over to my S30 recently though...bad things going through my head.
The 4-banger needs that gearing to run worth two pickles.
The L6 has enough torque that you don't need it so badly.
Not to say that a Z with 4.11 gears isnt a good idea by any means!! Just saying the KA has more of a need than the L-gata.
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Hey mods... This thread has turned into a decent example of what to do to a new to me Z that has been sitting for a number of years. It *might* behoove to move it to the S30 forum and make it a sticky??? Of course, if it is deemed too "pedestrian" to be worthy of sticky status here on tech-savvy HybridZ I can dig.
To the rest of the HybridZ public: keep the tips and experiences coming! This is the sort of thread that helps SOOO MANY people, but isn't always easy to find.
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I bought a really nifty little 3 LED spotlight thingy at walmart a few weeks ago thats the bee's knees, and it would work GREAT as an under hood light. It has a cigarette lighter plug on it, and the cord reels up into the body of the light. Three LEDs, with two modes, one single light and then one with all three. For 6-8 bucks, you cant fight it!
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Egads, not a revisit of wether headers save weight over cast manifolds again!
??? no, he has two stock exhaust manifolds and was wondering which would be better for performance. Kind of a "pointless" question, but you can't blame him for not knowing there was no appreciable difference. It only becomes pointless when you know the truth about the answer: that the only exhaust manifolds that will really offer much performance increase are expensive Nismo or Stahl headers.
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thanks for the confirmation, but isn't that diff a little too young to legally post pictures of it exxposed like that on the internet??
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go to a car dealership....go pop all the hoods in there and tell me how many have crossflow heads and how many dont? you kind of contridicted yourself b/c port geometry....has a whole lot to do with crossflow or non....noncrossflow limits everything...how you make your ports the angles it even limits you on how much you can bore out the ports cause they have to make the water sleeves thinner to fit in the intake and exhuast ports on one side....you can only squeeze in so big of a port....unless you have a foot tall head....come on they make honda 4 banger motors that make 200 hp stock without a turbo...and everyone of them are crossflow....
heres an example...(im gonna make an imaginary head) say you have a completely blank p90 head...(i dont know any of the exact dementions so im just gonna throw some numbers out for my example)....say the head is 120mm tall..now if you have it non crossflow you cant have the ports touching so you have them say 20mm apart and say the water jackets are 10mm thick inside the port....lets not forget that they have to be centered away from the top and bottom(which really really limits the port angles and geometry) lets say 20mm...so you can only make your port hole size 30mm apiece and can only port it out safely to 35mm without busting through the water jacket....not including the port angle and geometry being forced to be one way from lack of space....
or
lets say you have the same 120mm p90 head thats crossflow that you could make your port angles and port geometry any where you want because you have all this space thats not been taken up from other set of ports....and lets just say the port size is 60mm with a water jacket of 20mm inside the port with 20mm of room on top and bottom so its exactly in the middle....so you could bore this heads exhaust and intake ports safely out to 70 + and be ok.....
all this is also not including the shape and geometry of the intake and exhuast manifolds being also limited because of space on the noncross flow head.....and can be made to almost unlimited posiblities on the crossflow (the almost stands for how much money your willing to spend)
which one do you think you could pull more power with?
again im not trying to hate on this motor....but then again its 30 year old technology....back then this was the 2jz of the motors but now its not...life goes on...(end of rant)
Ok, I cut the head long ways down the port to get a better understanding of the angle of attack. The 1st pic shows the stock port configuration. Disregard the notch at the port inlet as this is the injector cutout. You can see the port inlet is roughly 1.350" and the valve seat ID is roughly 1.525".What I will do I run a 1.565"(1-9/16") end mill into the port and then smooth the transition. The necessary angle appears to be 17deg. At the port entrance I will make the inlet 1.625" by hand porting. This will allow for a good transition from 1.625" at the port inlet to 1.525" at the valve seat. Here is a pic of what I mean.
Below is a pic of the exhaust side of things, looks can be deceiving, but it does need some work.
you are welcome.
Now, how different would those ports look if they pointed opposite directions? Oh, wait, they DO. Those are sections of a P90 L28ET head. The exhaust port "slice" is simply flipped.
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The coming 2010 Fed Standards will make almost every state of the union posess a 'non-compliant' area within their borders. That means smog testing is coming. There will be no hiding before too long.
Aww, crap.. I guess its time fer me and Paw to go set fire to the ol' motor oil-dumpin hole again!!! Better git er done now before its too late!
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Can't you get something like that locally for less? It shouldn't be much different from steel brake line, as long as the diameter is sufficient.
Personally I would look into having your tank that you already have repaired. The fit is superior.
Where is the hole at? If it *happens* to be on the bottom, you might even want to consider cutting athat section of the tank out and welding in a sump (picture the bottom of an oilpan) to catch the last bit of your fuel and help avoid fuel starvation while cornering. It isn't a wicked-bad issue for a street driven car, but a racecar certainly has issues using the stock tank.
Never underestimate the beauty of a 16+ gallon fuel tank. Having the capacity hurts nothing; you can put 5 gallons of fuel in a 5 gallon cell or a 16 gallon tank. One tank will get you from West Palm Beach to Key West and back; one tank will run dry all the way down there, where gas has been $0.25/gallon more than here for the last 30 years.
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google xenons130. find the website, and see if your FSM is available for download. That will be INFINITELY more helpful for this than a chiltons or haynes.
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I prefer the Haynes manual for working on a 240Z. If you have a 280 it isn't as helpful, because ALL of the "280 stuff" was lumped into one chapter at the end.
Make sure the choke cables work freely, make sure you put in new NGK regular old BPR 6ES-11s, make sure the carbs are topped off with oil (not joking)and change the oil and filter.
After that, throw a battery in, see what kinda shape the electricals are in, fill up the tires, get her to roll, and find out what the brake hydraulics are like. Chances are at least 50/50 you'll need new hydraulics, but if its still full of fluid then you may be fine.. I just resurrected a 72 and wound up blocking off the rear brakes (not recommended, and more complex than it sounds, if you MUST you can ask me about this via PM) but got the master and the fronts to work OK simply thru disassembly and refill. The car never really saw the road, but it COULD now. (this car has major rust issues; its a parts car i was debating throwing together for a DD for a coupla months.)
Okay, air in the tires, good sparks, you already gave it good gas, and now, the vehicle can be stopped. Your throttle linkage and your choke cables work adequately. The battery hasn't started a fire yet, so lets REALLY give it a chance by mixing battery and fuel! Turn the key and see if she starts. Sometimes you need to get a little starting fluid to spray into the carbs so the engine turns over enough to really prime them with fuel.
If it starts on starter fluid but no other way, check for fuel. If it won't start with starter fluid, check the QUALITY of the spark coming out. Should be blue; yellow or white aren't acceptable. Consult manual for further direction on this front.
If it starts up, and runs rough, chances are you need to adjust the carbs.. BUT first, buy a set of feeler gauges, pull the valve cover, and set the valve lash. Consult manual for direction. Then, start dickering with the carbs.
Yeah, that was alot of info.. but I should have you covered. Resurrecting a Z-car... its whats for dinner!!!!
By "mold" I don't mean necessarily anything necessarily re-useable, professional, beyond your expertise, or otherwise unecessarily difficult... just something that you can easily shape, and then lay your glass down into.
:2thumbs:
thanks for the confirmation, but isn't that diff a little too young to legally post pictures of it exxposed like that on the internet??
Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I agree with tony, those are impressive raw castings, for a couple of guys who go about short sleeved and glove free
and for my part, I will say: SCREW the machine work, I want to see these puppies bolted to a mock-up longblock (preferably in an S30 engine bay, but I'm not picky!) PRONTO!!!
Seriously though, much respect! cannot WAIT to see you finish!