Buffalo_Z

It sounds like something is misaligned. Is it possible that your LCA got bent? The whole control arm could be twisted, and if the 2 pivot axis's are not parallel there could be issues.

What suspension are you running right now? What you have there looks like the exact stance I want to end up with on mine. How well does that size tire / rim tuck under the stock wheel arches?

Just swap in another L28. If you were running a turbo motor without a turbo it will probably be an improvement. There are hidden costs in every project that will kill you. An engine swap is known for that. In your position you can't afford the unknown.

Just swap in another L28. If you were running a turbo motor without a turbo it will probably be an improvement. There are hidden costs in every project that will kill you. An engine swap is known for that. In your position you can't afford the unknown.

Thanks for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it. Sounds like I am better off with carbs for awhile. I grew up fixing lawnmowers, so I have the right background for them anyway.

So I've been wondering, even though I am still early in the restoration of my Z, if it would be of much benefit to switch to a later model FI system later on. My 73 240 came with an L28 from an 83 ZX, headers, and round top carbs. That seems like a good setup from everything I have read, but I'm wondering if there wouldn't be a performance and maintenance benefit to eventually upgrading to fuel injection from a later model car. If I did, I would want to take a stock system from a ZX and remove all of the emissions equipment so that it doesn't look like a rat's nest and add a lot of extra complexity. I also don't want to bother with a complete turbo upgrade. Has anyone else undertaken something like this? Thanks, Matt

In your writeup, the only place you mention S12 calipers is in the summary. What is the difference between and S12 and an S12+8? I'm a complete newbie on this but I am trying to restore a 73 240 to daily driver / light autocross use and this looks like something I should definitely improve. I just want to figure out what the minimum is that I need to do, and be able to stop from 100+ without killing the brakes and also autocross without fade. I don't plan to really drive hard on a track. Thanks for your writeup!

So as long as I want to stay with carbs, this seems like a good setup right? Is there any other hardware I should be hunting down to complete this? Matt

I recently bought a '73 240Z with a later L28 motor swapped in. What is the easiest way to tell what carbs I have? It seems like any emissions equipment has been removed and I think the header is aftermarket. Are these the good SU carbs, or the newer "smogged" carbs? Thanks, Matt