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osirus9

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osirus9 last won the day on July 1 2015

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About osirus9

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  1. How much for the turbo exhaust manifold? Have any pics?
  2. Alright alright, I know that low impedance injectors are a tiny bit faster than high impedance. I was just making sure you didn't wire them straight into the MS like you would with high z injectors. That'd be a good way to run too much current through your board.
  3. You're running resistors for each of those low impedance injectors right?
  4. my opinion is that since the wiring is already in place and you're not afraid to get an ms2 running there is no need to get ms3 pro. The pro and MS3X are essentially the same computer with the same features, just that the pro will not require any internal modification to work with whatever application, it is smaller, it is pretty much waterproof, and it has slightly different wiring labeling.
  5. Or... Since you're going to need a Megasquirt in the future to run that RB30 you might want to just get an MS3X and go full sequential injection and COP. That way when you do switch to the new engine the engine is the unknown and not the engine AND the EMS. That's what I'm doing and so far I'm glad I am. There are a ton of little things I wouldn't want to have to sort out while second guessing the hardware.
  6. Hey guys, I was searching the internet far and wide trying to find a figure for dead times on my injectors and I found a cool website that other people will probably find useful. http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html These are probably not going to be exactly the same as your injectors, so if you're feeling adventurous you can measure your actual individual injector dead times using this page here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/injdeadtime.html Hope this helps somebody.
  7. I've got one, PM if interested.
  8. I have a pair. PM me if interested.
  9. bump somebody must have access to a junked Z! Sadly there are none up here in Chicago.
  10. unfortunately I'd need a matching driver's side lock to go along with the ignition. So in case anybody is wondering why I am asking for these random lock combinations I can explain farther. I currently have 1 key for the ignition of one type (key slots on the wrong side of the key). I have a key for the passenger door and hatch of the other type. And I have no proper lock or key for the driver's side at all. So it is acceptable for me to have 1 key for the ignition and the driver's side and another for the passenger side/hatch. But just replacing the ignition gets me nowhere. Also I am not willing to deal with 3 keys (4 including the gas tank...). Thanks though!
  11. Like the title says! Must be matching, and must be from those 2 years. Older style locks won't work. Also considering buying just an ignition and driver's side locks that match from those years. Please have pictures so I can confirm the locks are of the correct type. PM me with offers!
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