het976
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Posts posted by het976
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I was told you should put the transmission crossmember in to hold the tunnel shape if you cut out the pans. We also ran a brace from the tunnel to the door sill to hold it all together.
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That looks very cool. Not another one like it. We need some details...like how did you do the front end. True craftmanship and attention to detail. The engine compartment is so clean...no wires. WOW
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I need a tranmission crossmember...sent you a PM
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Well he was trying to get top dollar. I gave him $1200 for the adapters, wheels and new tires...
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No, not right now. I am way too far away from making the decision...LOL we are just dynamatting the shell this week...I am thinking I will stay with them for now, but want to make sure they are not going to fail. The guy I got the car back from told me he paid like $800.00 for them...not sure if that is true. I have not found them on the internet, so I can't verify that. They are pretty nice.
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Just to follow up on my commitment, here are some pictures of the wheel adapters that came with my car, to adapt to 5 lug. They seem really robust, but I welcome more experianced thoughts. I am still trying to find out where they came from.
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That was the most bizarre car thing I have ever seen.
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I agree...Charlie at Zedd Findings has a great product. Fit and finish was great. Quality is excellent. I only used 2/3 of the pan and the new frame rail.
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What would happen if you vented the air under the hood into the cowl area by drilling some holes through the firewall into the box that hold the wiper motor? When I talked to my stepdad yesterday, he reminded me that is what he did to keep as much air from going under the car. He remembered drilling 4 - 3" holes. He also blocked off all the other holes in the core support so only the radiator passed air.
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They just bolt to to exhisting hub like a wheel using lug nuts. The key is they are really wide, so a stock body could not use them, but if you NEED the width then they are prefect. They are two piece, with a 2 inch plate that bolts to the hub using lug nuts, then a 1" adapter that attaches to the plate with 7 12mm grade 8 allen screws. They seem really stout. I am out the door on a business trip to Houton this am, I will post some pictures of the adapters on Friday when I get back and ask the guy I got the car from where he got them.
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Not sure if this helps, but my car has five bolt adapters that are seriously thick, like 2 1/2 inches and 2 parts. I am not sure the wheels I have (they were on the car when I got it back), but I assume they fit the 350Z since they are NISMO wheels. The rears are 8" and the fronts are 7" (so I was told). I think they are zero offset (again, so I was told), but with the thick adapters, they fill my flairs pretty well. I am not sure where the adapters came from, but if you want to know, I will try to find out. If any of this is wrong someone feel free to correct me. BTW, I am not sold the the whole adapter idea, but the person I got the car from said they are safe.
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Welcome to the club. I have an 06 330 ZHP coupe that I love. It is quick (0-60 5.6 sec) and smooth. You are right, the BMW 6 is like feels like silk and loves to rev.
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I know this is not scientific, but years ago (1975), my step-father had a 70 240 (he is the one one who convinced me to by my z) that he did some areo work on, including an airdam that sealed the radiator as you discribe as well as a belly pan under the engine to clean up any air that went under the car. It was vented at the back so any air that went through the radiator exited under the car. There were some other changes like replacing the stock mirrors and head light covers and the BRE rear spoiler. The modifications he did added 3-4 MPG at 70 MPH, so it must have cleaned it up some. He swore by the half belly pan, but it was a pain to fit.
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I am using a product called RAMmat from Rick in Utah (great guy). It is a Dynamat like product (only less expensive) COMBINED with 2 layers 1/4" dense foam that is glued over the Dynamat. The idea is the Dynamat like product takes away the buzz of the bare metal and the foam kills the low fequency tire and exhaust noise. The folks who are worried about weight won't like it (probably 40-60 pounds), but for me and what I plan to use my car for, he told me it will feel like a bank vault and that is what I want. I got enough to do my car 2x over for about $250 and I am working from a bare shell, so that is from the firewall to the rear lights, inside the doors and behind all the panels. His product was listed as "best buy" in very exhaustive test that looked at adheasion, smell, sound canceling, ect. I have not gotten to the point of driving it yet, but so far I am impressed.
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It is not on ebay. He tried it and I think the shipping scared everyone off. Let me know if you are interested. I may run by there next week and buy it myself if it looks good.
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That is what I have to work with, a shell. I would find a donor car and just transfer everything over to your shell. The 240s were pretty basic cars and not too complex. If you can turn wrenchs you should be able to do it.
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This seriously sucks and I hope the car does not show up here if you were snipped by the guy from Eugene. The guy that did this is wrong and with out honor. If you want to share his e-mail address, I am sure there are people who would be willing to tell him him that.
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There are going to be some neat LED headlights coming out in the next year or so (I am told). Low power and compact.
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Justin,
If you need any help let us Portland area guys know. Good find, I think you got a great deal.
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I doubt it would be $125.00 to ship it. I am sure he would charge actual shipping. I had my seats shipped for $100.00.
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sorry..my lack of sleep got me confused...
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Rhnmsf....where are you in Washington? I am in Vancouver...Let us know if you buy the car.
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Here is a picture
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I found the guy. It turns out it is the son of an old friend of mine. He is looking for $125.00 plus shipping. It needs some amount of work, since it was mounted at one time, but he assures me it would take just a simple clean up to make it work. Mostly some excess fiberglass around the edge where it was bonded. Let me know what else you would like to know.
Here is a picture
Floor board welding help
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
If you are worried about he frame rails, baddog makes some nice replacments that slip over the existing rails.