deaner

As the topic states.... Putting together parts for standalone. Would rather not spend a couple hundred dollars.... Thanks. Dane

Mines for sale. Im in Minneapolis but it's an option. Here's the CL link.... http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/3395615802.html

No, I really have no intention of putting any of that stuff back on. I think I may have worded some things wrong. From what I've been looking at, maybe I'm wrong, but this is what I'm seeing. TPS has 2 switches. Wot and idle. At idle there's an enrichment that helps with smooth idle. At wot there's more fuel added as well, for obvious reasons. The bcdd was a throttle bypass to lean out and hold the revs up for smoother shifts. I'm thinking that when you let off the throttle, the idle switch closes and the ecu starts richening the mixture thinking its at idle. With the bcdd, there's air there to keep everything from getting rich and making it pop and backfire. Take away the air leaning everything out on decel and now its dumping fuel into hot exhaust. After playing with the tps last night, I figured out where on my peddle the switch opens but doesn't really open the throttle. On decel I'd try and hold it there. Seemed to work this morning on my way to work! Hopefully tonight I can check afr's to verify that everything's right on.

Thanks for the reply BluDestiny! Sorry, its a 78. Stock efi, injectors etc. I adjusted my tps yesterday and it cleared up a flat spot around 3000rpm. After playing with it and researching how this system works, that the idle enrichment switch, also worked with the bcdd on decel. I've kind of been thinking that that's why the bcdd was put there in the first place. To add air to the fuel that's being dumped in when the idle switch is closed, eliminating the decel popping. I'm going to try and put her on the rollers today after work and try it out after I check timing and that good stuff. In theory I don't see why you couldn't run a switch inside the car to control the idle switch on cold starts. Then once the engines warm, turn it off so the enrichments not there when you let off the throttle.

Hey all! I've been reading about the FI system like crazy on a few different Z sites along with a couple Alfa and fiat sites but can't really find a definitive answer so I figured Id just ask. Does the TPS idle switch add fuel on decel along with the fuel being turned back on at 2800rpm? I shaved my intake and deleted the bcdd(was bad) and this popping is annoying as heck! Plus my twice pipes are blued pretty bad I'm chalking it up to all the fireballs dancing all down the exhaust. My thought was to either cut the idle switch wire or bend the tab so it doesn't do anything. I plan on putting the car on the dyno at work sometime this week to check afr's and get a good baseline for future mods and will try it out. With how hot the exhaust is getting and how well it runs/pulls, I'm thinking the backfiring is the problem. Any insight or ideas would be great!! Oh, car has... Cold air Homemade fuel rail with stock for Msa header Twice pipes Shaved intake(egr delete, bcdd gone, cold start inj gone, etc) Timing, fuel pressure and vacuum test will be done when I get her on the rollers. Cars idles perfect, pulls hard, doesn't stink, etc. The decel popping is just annoying me lol. Maybe this could be the fix?

JSM, After looking back I was a bit short. I wasnt there or talked to the owner of the car, I apologize. Had a flashback about an ass that bought a car of mine once. Clutch was going out(he knew about it) and he proceeded to try and drift it that night. After the clutch obviously took a crap, he jumped on the local forums bashing me like I ripped him off. My reply to your post was an act before thinking type of deal. Also, your thread was close to the top and I didn't look at the date. I honestly had no intention of raising a dead thread to talk ****.

^^^^^^^ wow.....

Ha! Putting an engine under load while doing low speed testing and bitching about the tires not breaking free during a brake stand are 2 different things. You know how I test the torque converter or automatic transmissions in any one of the 600+ hp cars I work on everyday? Drive the damn thing. Full load/speed up the frontage road going from 2-3 then from P-R, will tell me all I need to know about a tranny. Not to mention misfires or stumbles in any of the other systems.

Youre too anal. What's messed up is you tried to brake stand( beat on) a car you were test driving, and than bashed the car owner for being shady?

Step 1: Fo to junk yard and grab whatever they have available. Best bet will be a 4.8/5.3 long block for a few hundred bucks. LS or not, who gives a ****. Throw boost at it and the LS "coolness" aren't really a factor any more are they? Step 2: Get home, open a beer, pull heads, clean, re ring, arp head studs, headgaskets. Step 3: Flip manifolds, make y pipe for turbo, add turbo bits and some fuel. Drink some more. Step 4: Add management. Tune.take shots in-between pulls. Step 5: Make 700hp. Step 6: Turn boost down because 700hp is retarded in a 2300lb street car. Step 7: Get shitfaced because you just made 700hp with a junkyard motor and a couple grand in GOOD parts in a 2300lb car. "LS engines" or what ever magazine made like 980hp on a $3k budget on a junkyard engine and eBay turbo build. Impressive really, wouldn't expect it to last long tho. Can these series engines(I hate linking them with LS's because they're not the same lol) are insane with boost. Mix in tuning, GOOD tuning and you'll make enough torque to literally tear your car apart. To answer the original post/question, skip the LS and just get an old truck 4.8/5.3 if you're gonna throw boost at it. Smile!

That drawing looks spot on to me lol. Love the compressor wheel too! Honestly you'd be fine without using heims and all that flair. Some tubing and a few bolts seems to work on the cars we've put together. We did a VG turbo 510(has the cover of NissanSport) that has a similar turbo setup as yours. I ran the brace down to an open hole in the block. He's pounded the car and seems to be holding up well.

That'd prob work just fine. Just remember that a brace doesn't have to support all the weight of whatever it's supporting. Just has to take part of the load off. Think of it as triangulating with the exhaust manifold. If that even makes sense or is worded right lol. I'll try and dig up some build pics reference, hopefully I can find them lol!

I'm in the same boat as neotech! My wife is amazing! "wanted" car parts find themselves in the "needs" list more often than not. Or the, "hey, we have an extra $200 this month, do you want duck hunting stuff or car stuff?" I learned a while ago that the car lifestyle is easier to live when married, if your wife actually likes the car lol. Cheers to all the awesome wives in the world! I smile and think how lucky I am everytime were throwing decoys(duck hunting) together. Excuse me, I have to go tell my wife she looks amazing! Plus I want to buy a motor off a friend lol.....

On a VG 510 we built, and pretty much any other big framed turbo or "V" engined turbo setup, we run like a 1/2" piece of thick walled tubing with bolt tabs(square plate with a hole drilled lol) welded on each end. Underneath the turbo(on either the 4 bolt flange or 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing) run down to the block. Kind of a PITA sometimes to make stuff like that look really good lol. At the end of the day though it's function over fashion. Just please don't use angle iron or rec tubing lol.

Im with boardkid. Unless it's a showcar coating it is a waste of money. Id honestly just grind it flush and run high temp silicone. If all the other bolts came out and are fine, it'll work just fine. Running a chaser through the other holes and running new bolts is a good idea on those old turbos too. Good luck!

Call Innovative and see what they offer for rebuilds. Better off just sending it off or buying another one. Most turbos nowadays are throw aways. Next do a leakdown. A little greenish film for the most part is normal. It's condensation. Now if you have water running off the dipstick you're in trouble. The smoke is more than likely oil puddled in the exhaust burning off. As far as a catch can, do you mean you have no breather setup at all or you just don't have a can? Not having a crank case breather with create blow by(smoke, low compression,etc) not to mention blow out seals. Hope this helps!

I hear you on hard to find little stuff. Those gaskets being one of them. Got tired of searching for random little wastegate gaskets or T3 gaskets everytime I took things apart. The past like 5 years high temp orange is all I've used. Unless it's a car that never gets driven or worked on(IE it get taken apart more often than not lol, tinkering) the stuff is perfect. Goop it on, tighten and clean off the excess. Done!

If it's all still taken apart, plane both surfaces and just use high temp orange. I quit runinng gaskets on everything turbo back years ago. Plus most of those metal gaskets are crush gaskets that only really work the way they're supposed to once. Good luck!

Exactly what Tony D said. It's air moving not jello pudding. The pressure difference around the throttle plate and the air having to split and converge after the IC are the points to really care about. To the OP, because opposite port IC are cheap and everywhere lol.

You'll be just fine. Old turbos usually need a ton of heat to get em to break free anyhow. You could prob snap the rest of the bolts and never have a problem lol.