Blue

I believe i have one pm me as i want to look it over before giving price Portland,Or metro area

I have an L26 crankshaft, ,, all good condition, ,, one journal needs polishing $40.00 + shipping Pm'd you

I have the early 71 driveshaft in my hot hands! ... measured roughly 28".... confirmed ... sent you a pm with pictures Regards, Blue

Pm sent

I believe i have one that i pulled out of my 71 a year ago for an r200 swap, let me check my storage Pm me Thankyou

Thankyou BluDestiny ... I see the direction.... I am a stickler for specs . Please disregard my statement about SU carbs earlier original poster. I have since edited my post.

Alright then. Thankyou for your input. Would you please care to clarify who this "one guy" at the MSA show as i am not aware ... and exact engine specifications on what he was running? Exact engine specifications on the other "webber" set ups of "other guys" ? Stock motor with a big cam? ( no mention of engine ?) Dyno slip/sheet? hmmmmm i will be researching today Thankyou ... pm me the details if you wish to keep thread clean

If you'renot planning on porting, putting a mid-range to top end cam ... that is "hot" or "hotter" .... than the tripple 40mm's will serve you well for a cruiser and a touch of scooting. If it were me ... i would acquire a good condition ... F54 block (flat top piston oem) ,,, with a p79 head. (F54/p79) head. Then i would proceed to install tripple 40 or 45mm webber carburetors .... buy the tuning tool ... unless someone has jetted them for a hot modified head/valvetrain ... they are pretty easy to tune/clean/modify ... but follow webbers instructions to the last period. Fuel pressure is critical (buy the correct pump) , run them before you rebuild them ( this way you can identify if something you did caused an issue ) ... keep them clean! !! .... i love the sidedraft design, roller bearing throttle shafts, way easy to open up and adjust/work on. Just follow the instructions, all of them , and you will be satisfied . This will give you factory 9:1 compression ... not to low to want more ... not high enough to have to turn the static ignition timing back to avoid pres ignition .... reliable, fun, and economical/somewhat ... but reliable .... add a late zx 5pd and 3.90 diff for some more fun hehe. Your current turbo head with dished piston block is not going to run the way you wish with the low compression ratio required ... in fact ... i would switch out the head or block Or raise the compression up somehow before attempting to run anything but a turbo at all. I currently run a 4bbl 390cfm Holley on my F54/p79 head ... i love it! One carb to tune .... always fires right up .... i have it dialed in per Holley specs, especially fuel pump sensitivity, brass floats adjusted correctly, correct (good) power valve, a slightly hotter accelerator pump cam, ngk plugs, secondarys begin to open around 2,700 rpm ... just a thought ... i don't understand why there is do much clack against these as i get great mileage with the 3.54 diff, and late zx 5spd ... Dual webber downdrafts should work just fine for economy. Roller bearings for throttle shafts and jetting kits/accelerator pump nozzles are readily available. Easy to work on! . Dual SU carbs ... good carbsThere is also the issue of the throttle shafts being worn (ztherapy or o-ring/teflon fix) that needs to be addressed .... and if there as a worn needle you might as well repair/rebuild them (its a good sign)... don't get me wrong i love them and run them on l24 and l28.... when they are good condition ... hard to beat for the application (if correct air flow application) Hope that helps!

Well ... today coated passengers side floor boards ... sealed seams before hand ... tubing structure to hold trans mount is welded in and sitting close to the trans tunnel ... just in front of the seat mount. Picked up a 77 double scooped 280z hood ... this will go on later down the road

Vacuumed out mice poop and organized interior today. I did this in order to see if anyl possible patch welding is to be done beforemoving onto por-15 coating phase. I am getting ready to order some por-15 or eastwood products equilvalent soon... i am doing some more research before ordering to satisfy the system i will be using. I also need to decide if i will be extending the floor pan frame rails before coating anything in this "reasonably" priced precious chemical. Also got a goodies in mail today ... my previous heater control panel was mutuilated Ebay find .... 240z heater control panel with switches , cablez , and heater vent attached got it at a good price, but unfortunately the bottom bezel in which the radio sits ... is cut out .... geee thanks ebay seller for disclosing ahead of time ... got it for. 50 cents more than willing to pay though A little fixing, and it shall work. Onto the pics! !! ... Anyone that has tried to buy these ... knows how much the price can fluctuate ... errrrr

Can you hear it run? Dyno sheets and receipts/pictures provided? Do you wish to carry off with someone else's project engine/combination at this price? Does this fit your overall goals or current ones? Could you retain some value in event of resale? That's a lot of power on street lol Questions to ask oneself in purchase

this is a stock 350sbc air cleaner ... the snout was going to be a clearance issue So i cut it off ... heat riser valve is gone ... this air cleaner will be used for testing and until i make a custom one or low profile. Strut tower bar ... triangulation to the firewall ... fabrication done. Strut bar ... triangulation to firewall bar ... installed ... distributor cap have to come off ... in order to install the strut tower bar. Also tack welded a long steel plate for connection points ... this will also serve az a hood latch mounting point as i had to cut off the original one ... Air cleaner installed. If i had ... a roll cage ... i would be using 1.25 round tubing instead of what i have used .... i would also use connection points through the firewall to bracing (obviously) .... Painted the bars blue quickly to prevent rust over duration ... i love blue anyways lol Also ... i will MIG weld the steel plate at firewall ... once i pull the engine again lol ( proper weld)

Not much of an update I.. re-cut ... shortened ... and re-welded the strut tower bar ... threw a coat of blue paint on it for heck of it, and to slow rusting lol .... blue my favorite Color. I know for sure i will weld two more adajacent 1" square tubing pieces ... triangulated to firewall to make just an entire 1-piece setup ..... rather than 3 seperate pieces ... I am much happier now with this result, and moving things around a bit ... I really need to get more done on this before spring

Little things ... Cut off hood latch retaining bracket ... will be relocated ... a few inches towards drivers side ... this is to allow room for distributor/maintenance purposes ... Deleted/took out wiper washer tubes ... they are in the way for firewall bracing purposes either way Grade-8 hardware for installing strut tower bar ... lol 1/2" I.D structural tubing pieces ... will be welded to the strut tower bar to allow removal. Grade-8 hardware bolted to ... 1/8 plating ... in which the ears will be welded to the strut tower caps Strut tower bar installed ... ears welded onto the strut tower caps .... bar itself is 1" diameter square tubing ... Another angle ... looks tight ... plenty of clearance

In addition ... i am also thinking of moving the radiator and battery to the back. I will definetly have to research plumbing materials, flex joints, etc ... The battery relocation seems easy peezy , but i do believe i will have to install a relay upgrade as well I am searching ... these two points deserve their own post in my build since they are of low priority until many other things are taken care of first.