HICKL

Will have to check again. It seems like it was 12 volts if I checked to a solid ground but lower if I checked across the coil terminals with the key on. Will confirm tonight!

I have tested with 2 boxes. The one that was in it when it died as well as a second one he had used in the car that had the same tune etc. I checked voltage across the coil with the key on and it was either 7 volts or 9 "ish". Can't recall as has been a few weeks so don't quote me on that. I will test the ground wire as you recomended! Thanks!

Here we go, I am a former pretty active member of HybridZ on the V8 conversion side. Had a succesful V8 conversion that is now a daily driver but will run 11.50 on the 1/4 mile whenever I want it to. Have not done much with it over the last few years so have not been active here. I have recently adopted an 81 ZX turbo car with an MS3 ecm. The car belonged to a good friend of mine and it just died on him going down the road. Thru lack of time to mess with it, he passed it on to me. I am as ignorant as can be on the fuel injection/turbo/MS3 topic, so I have been doing a lot of research to get myself up to speed as much as possible before getting on here and asking too many newbi questions. Here's the story, car was running fine and died going down the road. No spark. I have re-traced all the wiring etc and all seems to be in order. My first thought was that the distributer was probably not sending a signal (its an 82-83 dizzy with the 50 mm optical trigger). Did some data logging and I see the ECM is recording RPM's so I guess the dizzy is doing its job. I then put a timing light on the coil wire to see if the coil is firing. It is not. I hoped was just a bad coil so I stuck that coil in my V8 car and it fired right up so the coil is good. (also tried another good coil in this car and no go). I am an old school guy so bare with me here. Is there a way to test the circuit at the coil to see if the MS3 is opening and closing the ground circuit as it should? I was thinking I should be able to take the ground wire from the coil an check continuity between it and a known ground and see if the circuit it opening and closing. Will this work? If not, any advise on troubleshooting this thing would be very appreciated. I know he did the BIP373 conversion and even replaced that pc after the car broke down to see if it was the culprit. He also had two MS3 boxes and both were working fine and the car won't fire with either one... I have the data log from when the car died as well as a short data log of me just cranking on it the other night. I am too green to know if there are any clues in there but can provide if of any use to anyone higher tech than me. Thanks Jeff

I have a 78 without a title that I bought as a parts car. Have been trying to decide if I want to keep it or not. Would let it go for $300.00. If interested I can send pics and more details. Car is in Conroe tx. Thanks Jeff

My goal was to get keep the dif pushed up as far as possible to help my cv rubbing issue so I took up all the slack from the bottom. I do see what your saying though. I will just have to start over and re-look at everything as it seems that I have covered it all but still have a problem. thanks for the input.

just did the spacer on the bottom, I don't think that is the source of the sound either. Running stock stub axles, made my own adapters, I think there are still pics in my photo album (am kind of proud of them, stole the best of a few designs and put together). I did not feel any play when I swapped the cv and I pulled my adapter out and put back in so I know it is tight and was tight. Am curious to hear from someone else running a solid dif and CV's to see if they have any of the same issues...

My "rubber bumps" were chewed up so I made aluminum spacers and stuck in there to remove any slack as a temp troublshooting fix. The clunks or clanks I hear are at low speeds like turning in a parking lot. Keep in mind from the first post that I am running solid dif so I know that it is forcing things to bind unaturally. I expected some of this, just seems more extreme than I anticipated and all seems to come from the same side (passenger)

They are rubber. I thought about that, but did not know how much of my flex was in the rubber or the bar itself. Is there a disadvantage to the billet bar other than the cost?

I have recently switched to the RT mount and when I did, it changed the angle of the diff so that when I load the suspension, the rear of the diff squats and the cv rubbed the lower a arm (thats what killed the first boot). The second boot had a knick in it from laying around the shop. I shimmed my upper mustache bar bushings to tighten them up in hopes of limiting the "dip" under load and it seemed to help. I am considering going with the arizona Z car rear mount as a more permanant fix. Other than that, all seems tight under there. These are OEM CV's.

Trying to track down a clunk...will a cv that is low on grease clunk? I am running a welded dif and understand that this is brutal on cv's when turning. My passenger side seems to make a bunch of noise when turning while the left does not. I found my inner boot to be torn to shreds so I swapped out that cv with another. I drove it about 20 miles and started noticing the same clunks. When I got home, I found that this inner boot was damaged also and had slung out some grease. Could this be causing my clunks or just a mess of grease on my a-frame.... Thanks Jeff

I went with the 2999 victor jr which has the "built in" 1" spacer and then have the 1/2 cheater plate on top of that. Even this taller vic jr was still about .750 shorter than the Keith Dorton if memory serves me.

I know you recomended the Keith Darton intake but if memory serves me, I did not have enough clearance for it. I can see losing some hp if not the right match, but I would not expect to loose 30 or 40.. I am still testing my memory to see when it begun to feel flat. Have had a few "mis-haps" since I tried this setup so not sure if I hurt it in another way. I lost 3rd gear while doing a WOT 100 shot of Nitrous one day so of course it pegged straight to redline. Got the trans re-built then had a rocker stud let go at about 6K rpm's a month or so later. Somewhere along the line I had a spring break in my dizzy and fixed that but I "think" I got it back right and my timing curve seems to be the same as it was. She sounds normal, idles fine, no knocks or anything like that. Is it possible that I have cam damage? Can a cam "slightly flatten" or do they only fail miserably? I am open to any ideas on where to look, have been racking my brain over this for months...

He He, I understand how to check vacuum, was wanting to know if he is specifically looking for something. I know what my vacuum is at idle and I know what happens to it at WOT, I know it changes with timing etc etc... Jeff

Be more specific, do you mean check for a big leak??

Ran 3-4 mph slower with the Victor jr.

Ok you smart guys, please help me figure this out. Basic engine facts, 383, dart sportsman II small chamber heads, roughly 11:1 compression ration, block hugger headers etc etc. Original setup was a performer RPM with a Holley 750 dp carb. Ran consistent 11.51's, Switched to tunnel ram with 2 holley 450's, ran consistent 11.51's (almost identical). I decided to play with a little nos so I purchased a victor jr with the extra 1" of height, stuck a cheater plate on it and the same holley 750 dp. My best run with this setup is 11.80 (not spraying). It feels like it really flattens out at around 5800 rpm's where as with the tunnel ram, if the road was not sticky, it would break the tires loose at 6000 rpm in second gear. I understand this short single plane may not rev like the t-ram, but I think it even ran better up top with the performer RPM. Could I be under carbed or under jetted for this intake? Would the same carb setup work good on one intake and be that lacking on another?? I have looked at timing, curve etc and all looks normal, checked compression and all 8 cylinders up above 180. Any idea where to look to find this missing horse power??? Thanks for any ideas, Jeff

I posted in the Events forum that I was going, but as always, I am the only one there! It normally runs 11.50's, was a little off, that run was an 11.8, I started playing with the timing but broke a motor mount before I got anywhere. Can't remember the exacts of my wheels, I think the rims are 15x8's, I know the street slicks are 11.5 wide, can't remember the hight. Don't know who makes the hood. Bought it used. Sorry I wasn't more helpful... I can get the tire wheel specs if you need them.

Yes, this one is welded, they kept failing on me so I figured I would try it. Jeff

Ha Ha..pretty dang hard. Actually broke my motor mount on the third pass, I guess I was dumping the clutch a bit too hard.

Thanks! My 60' are in the mid 1.6's...that's pretty well under 2 seconds right???

Finally reached one of my life goals at Super Chevy last weekend. Yes, I know I look surprised!! I am trying to imbed this picture but I guess I am too stupid. If it does not work, I welcome the help. Jeff [img.]http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/image/24328-front-wheels-finally-up/[/img.]

I made my own mount per the drawings on various threads and it seems that my dif is sitting about 1/4" further towards the rear than it used to. Has anyone else experienced this? I guess it is possible that I made a mistake on my fabrication, but I don't think I did. Was about the easiest most straight forward pc I have ever made. Is this normal or did I mess something up??? thanks Jeff