2savage

I totally agree. T-5, even if it's 'World Class' struggles to handle 350bhp. If you are planning on drag slicks to launch those front wheels in the air your trans should be something like a Tremec 3550.

Before an engine that has been laid up for so long is started it is essential to remove the head and observe the bores and valves. There is every chance that one or more valves were in the open position and if so, the cylinder will be exposed to moisture ingress and could have rust on the bore. Further, the valve itself may have rust on the stem that could cause it to stick. Either one of these scenarios will result in your engine grenading when you start it.

For horsepower at the rear wheels you will need at least 350bhp and 400 would be better. As for drivetrain it must be able to handle 400bhp. This includes the clutch. Finally, don't forget that you need TOTAL traction during the launch, which requires drag slicks that are wide enough to maintain adhesion.

Say what? All Hondabelt did was post a link back to another web page. If you want credit for having created that web page I suggest you amend the content to claim the credit. I do understand why you would want credit as there is a wealth of good information there and some good pics too.

I say it's time to get back to reality. Ford Motor Sports will sell you a crate engine putting out 345 bhp for just 3,500. This is NEW, not remanufactured, and would have a full warranty. I'm sure Chevy engines can be had for similar amounts of green. Forget the stroker.

I think what you meant to say is notch the piston tops to clear the valves, yes? I believe the process is called having the pistons 'fly cut'. I have never heard of notching cylinder walls.

My engine is a 'hybrid' using an L28 block and an earlier 240 head that has been ported. This combo provides high compression and the porting along with a race cam, syahl headers and triple 45 DCOE's is supposed to give 249bhp at the wheels. When I finish the car I'll let you know if it really lives up to that lofty claim.

Sometimes this can happen with how you wire the distributor and starter. Excess power for the starter reduces spark capability. Have you pulled the codes?

There are distinct differences in the noise coming from your valve train versus other areas of the engine that would normally be described as knocking. Valve train 'clatter' is more often a tick or a light clatter, NOT a knock. Knocking is more often used to describe lower engine wear issues such as worn main bearings or, to a lesser degree, 'little ends', where the wrist pin joins the piston. Knocking at the bottom end is caused when the connecting rod has actual movement in relation to the crank due to work bearings. This is most noticable at initial start-up. It again becomes noticable when the engine oil is warmed up to full operating temperature and the engine is at idle. The low oil pressure and thinner oil in this circumstance again allows the parts to 'collide'. Short term solution is to go to a 20/W50 oil grade but you are merely delaying the inevitable, which is a rebuild of , as a minimum, the bottom end.

Just to fill in the knowledge for the thread, high pressure oil pumps are NOT always an upgrade but can cause more problems than the solve. Although most race cars use such an item, they also have their engines built with a larger gap between the crank journals/bearings and the crank. This combination results in better oil flow past the bearings and still provides enough oil for the top end. If you JUST use a high pressure pump the increased effort to run the oil pump can cause exess wear on the pump drive gear. For engines where the distributor is driven by the cam and a drive shaft turns the oil pump, the distributor gears will suffer. In extreme cases I have heard of the drive shaft being bent like a pretzel when a high pressure oil pump as used and the engine builder failed to install a high strength drive shaft as well. Hope this helps.

An engine that does not reach proper temperature will ultimately have a shorter life due to deposit build-up. That said, your temp guage seems OK. I would say you are in the lower range of normal.

As suggested it could just be all your oily finger prints on the headers and such. If it's coolant then it will be steam, not smoke. This will be whitish and will not continue into the atmosphere for long. In contrast, oil burn-off is blue and remains visible. If it's oil then the only places it can come from is by bypassing the oil control ring of pistons (worn bores or oil control rings) or by getting past the oil seals of the valves. This is caused by worn valve guides or oil seals. Hope this helps.

Setup is triple 45 DCOE's to a cannon intake and Stahl headers. Head is worked with big valves, flowed and high compression. So, I here's the plan.... 1) wrap the headers 2) install metal heat shields under each carb http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=5379 3) put heat sheild tubing over the fuel line feed 4) use two fuel pumps, one near the tank and a second under the hood Is there anything else I can do? How about those plastic spacers that fit between the carb and the header?

Excellent. Thanks guys

I have a 2.8 engine in my 240z with a triple weber carb conversion and other mods. So, I'm rebuilding things under the hood and can't remember what goes to the tube which is at the front of the engine on the drivers side below the distributor. The tube sticks out about 4" from the engine block. I'm pretty sure it's not heater related because those are both on the passenger side. Can someone help?

No, not you rturbo930. It was this pic...

Thanks guys. Looking at these pics made me feel a whole lot better One comment, one pic shows holes in a rusty floor with pen marks around them. they're not seriously thinking of patching are they?

I'm building a rally car using a '73 240z. Headers are stahl, ending in two 2 1/2" tubes, then through a flowmaster Y to a 3" tube. I need to build the rest of the system back and need maximum ground clearance. Is it possible to go above the rear suspension?

Yes, just north of NYC. Hey, if you loved the preview you might think about buying a copy of the film when it becomes available in a couple of weeks. Some of the in-car footage is awesome!

After completing my latest DVD offering "Targa Cobra" I am now focusing on the 240Z on the other side of my Garage. It is destined to compete in the Targa Newfoundland rally and is being prepared accordingly. As we did this year, we are planning to shoot footage during the week and compile a film afterwards. Is this something the forum members would want? Should I make the effort or not? If you want an idea of what it will be, go to www.targacobra.com and view the preview for this years film in the link. Then let me know if I'm on the right track?

I added two extra gauges to my Bob Sharp Racing L28 and one of them was oil temp. To install the sensor I bought a Canton sandwich adapter, part number CAN 22-565, which bolts up to where the oil filter goes and the filter simply screws right onto this new adapter. My Autometer oil pressure gauge came with a sensor and adapter that screws directly into the port in the Canton adapter. It took a bit of research to figure out but installing took only 5 minutes. Hope this helps someone.

Has anyone used these? http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6 I have a set of 17x7 rims with 225/45/17 tires. Rims are +40 offset. Would these fit using the adapters?

The video starts on route 303 south in West Nyack then turns into Blauvelt State Park. A very BUMPY ride but excellent for testing suspension setups (not to mention camera image stabilization!!).

INXS - Suicide Blonde B-Tribe - Sometimes

I made this short video using my Shelby Cobra which you may enjoy... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Nmvz4ghpG8