2savage

Diagram from S30 wiring shows the signal coming from the coil +ve.

When the engine does not even turn over do you hear a click for the solenoid? Do you hear anything at all from the starter motor? It is possible that either the bendix on the starter or the ring gear on the flywheel is worn and locks up. It is also possible that the main cables to the starter are loose or have a bad ground. Check these and let us know.

Do I have to remove the gas tank to do this? How does everything come apart?

Tim I respect and value your opinion. What is your opinion on the weight differences? I need to shed 240 lbs from my car and every bit helps.

My old school background always taught me that an electric fan releases more power from the engine. This is because the electric fan is not always needed and at speed there is enough flow across the radiator to keep things cool. Having a mechanical fan (even a viscous one) will be working even when not really needed, sapping HP. This info is not specific to Z's and others may have better real life experiences.

The Holley Blue is a very strong pump and comes with a regulator (non-return style) but is noisy. I used one for several years to feed a Holley 650 DP four barrel on my Cobra. Don't know much about Malllory pumps.

Well, the gauges are in and I'll post pics soon, but in the meanwhile, heres how the rest went... The autometer angle rings were excellent and I recommend them over using the stock bezel rings. You don't need to cut them and they make the end job look VERY professional. After doing a trial fit and checking the angles, I ascertained that the rings need to be fixed with their inner edge flush with the dash material, which leaves them sufficiently protruding so the instruments can be read but will be secure. Next I mixed up some two part epoxy and applied a bead about 1/8" wide right on the back part of the ring on the outside, then inserted them into the holes from the rear. Any epoxy that made it onto the ring that could be seen from the front was cleaned off with acetone. Once the epoxy was dry I cut about 3/4" off just one leg of the supplied aluminum retainer brackets and put these on the back securing them with the aluminum machined thum screws. Job done. The rest of my dash customization includes adding more gauges where the heater controls used to be, adding a custom switch panel with ignition switch and starter button plus some other controls for wipers, heater etc.

I went with Phantom. The speedo and tach are in. Did them last night with black silicone; a good tip is to use an inspection light from behind to look for places where the silicone needs filling. As for the other three, I bought the autometer angle trim rings, which should arrive today. I'll post again with details of how things worked out.

I'm rewiring and replacing with autometer 2 5/8" and 5" instruments. The instruments came today from JEGS but they (both sizes) slip through the holes in the dash. I had read that they were a perfect fit on this forum somewhere. So, what's the trick? I have thought of placing tape around the rim of the speedo and tach, which are almost snug, then making a trim ring for the others which are about 3/16 too small. What does everyone else do?

A bit of history; Its-a-Snap and EZ Wiring are the same product. Its-A-Snap split up a while ago with the two partners taking seperate parts of the business. There is a third choice for you wiring maniacs, which is American Autowire. I've used them, Painless and EZ Wiring in various projects and like the AA harness very much. That said, I just bought a 20 circuit EZ Wiring for my race car just because it's so much cheaper. Basically they are all good, but the modular approach of AA may be better for some.

I built a car last year that has two speedometers, one in MPH and the other an electronic item calibrated in KPH for Canadian rallies. The method was to source an adapter that fits on the speedo end of the cable and has a pulse type sensor take-off with two wires. Use these wires as input to the electronic speedo. You will need to go through a calibration process but can wire this up to pretty much ANY electronic speedo that can be calibrated. Here's a link to a suitable product.... http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=242/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd242.htm

The 1973 240Z I bought recently has a gear shift that is very loose. It seems that the lever should have a sleeve around the pin that keeps it in the transmission and there should also be some shims or washers either side of the lever to further improve it's location. I'm new to Datsuns; can someone please confirm my suspicion of missing parts? If they are missing, where can I source them?