Azdyl05

Thanks guys! I'll give it a shot.

If I have to replace the whole line, can I get a flexible line, or is it neccessary to go rigid and bend it to match the stock line? Thanks!

Hello, Sorry for asking a stupid rookie question, but while replacing my master clutch cylinder and disconnecting the hydraulic line, the tube kinked and the end-fitting broke off. Is there a cheap easy way to fix this or does the entire line have to be replaced? By azdyl05, shot with DSC-P200 at 2008-10-23 By azdyl05, shot with DSC-P200 at 2008-10-23 I'm reluctantly selling the car ('71 240Z) due to finances, so I don't really want to put more money into it just to turn around and sell it. I'll be posting a for-sale ad in the classifieds section. If anybody wants to buy it as-is without me replacing the cylinder, please let me know ASAP because I need money badly! Thanks!

Actually, it's been a while since I sat in the car, so I had forgotten about it until your comment about the firewall. I do remember seeing some fluid around where the firewall grommet is. Thanks for the reminder! I'll probably just start with the master, and if that doesn't work, then I'll do the slave as well. Like both of you said, it's not that spendy. Thanks again

Hello, I've been procrastinating on this for 6+ months as I've been saving to do my V8 conversion, but I'm sick of not being able to drive my Z. I have a '71 240 that either the clutch master or slave cylinder has gone out on. Is there a simple way of telling which one of them is bad. I'd rather not replace both if one of them still has some life to it since this will just be a temporary fix. Thanks! Dylan

Man, the deer are never gonna see that one comin... When they see the 100 spoke hubcaps sitting there an no car, They'll be just confused enough to let those guys get the perfect shot off.

Sounds good! Yah, keeping track of everything I take off and being able to properly reassemble is the part that scares me more than anything else. I'm going to take a ridiculous amount of pictures during disassembly so I have a reference when it's time to put it back together. Keep up the good work!

Sorry to dig up ancient history here, but for those who are curious, I just called about 5 different shops here in the Phoenix area and it looks like it'll be about $1000 to do my entire car. That's with copper slag @ $70/hour. If I want glass bead or walnut shell, it's $140/hour (double the cost) later

Hey Wickiewicked240z, Great work! I'm getting ready to start dismantling my 240. I originally was thinking of keeping my chassis on the car during media blasting to make moving it around easier, but seeing how nice yours is coming together, I think it's going to be well worth my time taking it down to the bare bones. I'm curious how hard it's been for you to move the shell around? Any guesses at what it weighs with everything taken off? Any words of wisdom for a guy about to go through what you have over he last several months? Again, great work. It's hard to believe this is your first restoration! Definately an inspiration!

Thank you Terry, as of now, I haven't unhooked or replaced anything. Is the procedure the same when bleeding from the slave? (can I do this with the clutch lever and rubber tubing as described by Chiltons, or do I need a bleeder pump?) When I do replace the master and slave cylinders (when I do my engine swap) would it be safe to assume that the new Tilton cylinder will have a bleeder valve on it? Thanks again

Call me stupid if you wish, but I can't seem to find a bleeder valve on my clutch master cylinder. I tried searching forums, but came up empty handed. My chilton's manual makes this seem incredibly easy, but makes no mention of where the bleeder valve is. I even went to a few parts stores to look at a new cylinder for comparison, but it was a wild goose chase and nobody had one in stock. Please help. Thanks

I've been browsing EBAY the last few days and have seen several SATAs in new and barely-used condition going for the $200-$300 range. The lowest price from a retailer was $580/gun. I don't mind spending the money if it's going to produce a better quality finish. I've also been looking at compressors. Is it a fair assumption that I need an compressor that can consistantly produce 7 cfm @ 90 psi? (or more?) I also did a little reading and saw a note that there is some sort of valve that keeps pressure consistant whehter you shooting or not. Is this valve needed to produce consistant results while shooting? Not to overload one reply with multiple questions, but do most/all guns have interchangeable nozzles or are you stuck with the nozzle that's on the gun. I really appreciate your guys insight! Thanks

Any idea how Jim Cooks product compares to Motorsports Auto's MSA flares? (both in appearance and quality) I have a cd-rom catalog from Motorsport Auto and from the initial view, I think I like Jim Cooks better, but hard to tell. Jim Cooks website is horrible, but I called and they are really helpful/nice. FYI: Jim cooks are about $500 for all four fenders and they accept 10" wide tire in the back and 8.5" in the front. Bobby C. , what's your opinion of the quality of the set your installing. Any regrets on buying them? Thanks

Sounds good, no rush on a response. I'd rather not spend that much if I don't absolutely have to, but like you said, I'll get what I pay for. I might have buyers remorse if I buy really nice equipment and then only use it for one paint job, but I'm worried if I buy cheaper equipment that I won't be happy with the results and therefore regret being a cheapskate. Long story short, I'm kind of on the fence because I might have regrets either way I go. Thanks again!

That sounds like a good plan. I'll just rebuild them for now to get me through the next few months. Thanks guys

Ya, when I was having my truck done, they had a jeep there that they were doing "everything" on. They did exterior, floor, dash, everything. It looked pretty sweet when it was done!

Very good info! I greatly appreciate the thorough response! Other than practice, is there a good way for me to determine what size tip I should use with different paints and how much pressure to use, so forth so on. I realize you can't teach me to paint on an online forum, but what sources do you recommend for learning the basics? Obviously I can pick up a book or two, but would you advise me to take a class at a community college? Only problem there is I have a pretty tight schedule. The contents of the ebay auction you linked to states: This is a new set of ATD Air 10 piece set of HVLP Spray Gun Set. Set includes: 1.8mm Primer Spray Gun 1.4mm Topcoat Spray Gun 1.0mm Touch-Up Spray Gun 1 Liter Aluminum Cups 125cc Stainless Steel Cup Locking Pressure Regulator (0-180 PSI 1-12 Bar) Metal Paint Gun Stand Cleaning Kit: (1) Spanner Wrench, (1) Hex Wrench, (1) Brush, (2) Filters (1) Face Mask Features & Specifications: Stainless Steel Needle & Nozzle Sets Knob for Spray Pattern Adjustment Operating Pressures of 29-50 PSI Air Inlet 1/4 inch Air Consumption 3.5-7.1 CFM Those guns are HVLP, which you recommended I stay away from (or atleast that I should use a high pressure gun); just wanted to clarify. Should I presume that the guns included in the auction have nozles that are permanant, or are they set up to accept different size nozles for different applications? You stated that's a cheap but good imitation of a SATA gun. In my opinion, that price almost sounds too LOW for 3 guns. Do you feel I'd be happy with those products since I'm not going to be painting full time, would they be fine for me a give me a good quality finish, or would it be worth my time to by something more high end right off the bat? Thanks again!

Does anybody have any words of wisdom on what kind of paint gun to buy if I want to start practicing my painting technique? I'm on the fence whether or not I want to try painting my car, but I figured I could try practicing on some junkyard fenders and such. I assume a gravity feed hvlp gun is the best route, but do you have any specific reccomendations? Also, should a person have multiple guns (1 for paint, 1 for primer, one for clear, etc...) or just get one that has interchangeable nozles? Thanks P.S. for those that have painted their own vehicles, how neccessary is it to use a paint booth with heat lamps?

It definately looks good! Just FYI, I had a rhino liner sprayed in a truck of mine, and it looked incredible for about a month. After being exposed to the elements, and dirt, and sun, it quickly lost it's sheen and became quite dull. It still kept it's integrity and never cracked, peeled, or anything of that nature, but it did get pretty dull and dingy fairly quickly. I was still very happy with the product, and I beleive they warranty it for life, but it didn't keep it's "wet" showroom look for very long. It might never get that way being on the interior of the car, but just thought I'd mention it. Also, "DrEaM" asked in the last post about leather. I think that would look awesome if done right, but I can only guess that it would be amazingly difficult to get all the wrinkles out especially around the gauge countours of the dash. The bedliner dash looks awesome in the pics. Keep us posted on how it holds up after it's had several months of sun exposure. I would imagine keeping a nice coat of "protectant" on it would help keep it a rich deep black instead of fading. Later

I'm needing to make my stock drivetrain work for a few months before I start my v8 swap. However, I need to replace my Master and Slave cylinders now in order to be driveable. Is there any problems using the above setup (Tilton 15/16" and Camaro slave) on a stock powerplant? You mentioned using a stock Camaro slave. Is it neccessary to get one from a certain year Camaro? Is there any benefit in going with an aftermarket slave? Thanks

Thanks guys! I appreciate your time!