wfritts911

Damn...and I thought optima yellow tops were expensive, I could buy an LS1 pullout for the price of some of those. Maybe one day when I'm a bazillionaire. -Will

The mity vac is the only way I bleed my clutch anymore. I bled it the "normal" way back when I first put the clutch in my firebird, couldn't get it all the way bled, went and bought a mity vac and have never looked back. Come to think of it, I dont even think I can fit a rachet on the bleeder in the Z, think it's too close to the tranny tunnel now. -Will

You know what the next step is, you just don't want to do it. 8.8 or 9 inch SRA. Or an automatic swap. Either fix the weak links or swap out the weak link breaker(Damn clutch cars...) -Will

Man seeing that makes me want to give in and go SRA more and more. Did the CV survive other than the tore boot? Cause if you have to get another CV from the drive shaft shop that is going to be an expensive repair. Does someone sell billet, or the like, inner stub axles? I know MM sells the 280z outer stub axles but don't see the inner stub axles anywhere. Do you think yours was just wore out cause I don't think I've seen anyone else break the inner stub? That sucks though man, you were definitely about to break 6.xx, that thing is getting down! -Will

Definitely get some good video and lots of timeslips for us! -Will

Pretty sure 853 castings make it a 99 or maybe 00. 01/02 got 241 castings I believe. Sunny the 799 casting is the 243 equivelent, 799s came on some LS2s, 05(maybe 06) and up truck motors, they are pretty much the same as the 243 heads just don't get the lightweight valves the LS6's got. That motor is definitely not a 98 though unless someone swapped heads to the newer style. Build looks like its coming along good though. -Will

Fail on linking to the thread I talked about above. Here it is: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38343-hybrid-280z-weight-distribution/

Hmm...makes me want to put my car on some corner scales even more. Here is one thread that talks about the Z being rear biased, also mentions that most of the drivers weight goes on the rear tires(Which makes since considering you practically sit on the rear axle in these cars). That's whats keeping me from moving my battery to the back and hacking out my battery box for a cleaner engine bay, don't want to make it even more rear biased than it might already be. Gonna have to call my dirt tracking buddy up next time I go home to get on some scales -Will

Sunny, that pedal box mod is a great idea, reaching the pushrod to adjust it is a PITA. Might have to do that next time I decide to adjust mine. -Will

Have you weighed the car? I thought the general consensus floating around on the forums was the LS1 swap already makes the car rear biases weight wise. Thats the only thing keeping me from removing my battery tray to clean my engine bay up. Install looks nice though -Will

I've never personally done it, but they say you can over extend the slave if you adjust your master cylinder out too far(I.e. too much movement). RebekahsZ I wouldn't worry a whole lot about engagement until you get it broken in, the feel and engagement points will change a lot during the first 500 miles. I also found that if I shortened the stroke(I.e. less master cylinder movement) it became easy to shift gears at low rpms, but like Sunny said, you have to have the extra stoke for the high RPM shifts. If you get used to it you can smooth up your shifts when you are driving normally by not pushing the pedal all the way down, just push it 3/4 or so. Or at least thats how it seemed for me. On my car when I would do the pedal to the floor rev to redline test, it wouldn't roll forwards when the revs were climbing, but as soon as I let off, it would inch forwards some. Never was able to get rid of that. I will agree that 2nd gear launches have to murder a clutch. What springs/struts are you running Sunny? I know some guys are pulling 1.4x sixties on some skinny slicks, granted they probably have a lot more power, but you are blowing the tires off. I assume your setup is relatively stiff, which I would think hurts your 60ft times. I know ive read people cut 1.4x on stock springs and parts store struts. -Will

Ya I agree with the guys above, the mounting design is just acting like a lever on that old brittle crossmember. Just like the guys that have had solid mounts and cracked the crossmember in many places. I would definitely look into re-designing the mount, as there is a lot of upward force coming from the nose of the diff when the go fast pedal gets put down. -Will

What 2006 mustang came with a T56???? I don't think any mustangs got the T56 besides the 03-04 cobras. The 05-10 GT's still had 5 speeds, and when they brought back the GT500 it got a TR6060 like the new 2010+ SS Camaro. So you might check and make sure its a T56 and not a whatever 5 speed came in the GT's. And if it is a T56, I bet its out of a 03-04 cobra. Also Tremec bought out Borg-Warner in ~98 I think, so that tranny cant be a BW. -Will

Lookin' good man! You put the hurt on that Z06. What sixty foots were you pulling at the track? Were you not launching higher than 3500-4500 because it was blowing the tires off? Your car is definitely getting down. Any videos from the track?? -Will

Thats not a bad price, but I would still need to drop the money for the 300ZXT adapter flanges. I was reading up the other day, and I think an 8.8 out of a fox body would fit in its stock length, which means all I would need to do is weld on some brackets for a torque arm setup, and get some universal coilovers and I would have a near bullet proof axle. Its sooo tempting! I probably saw it if you had, but ive looked at so many Z threads it all blurs together, but have you had a chance to run it at the track yet? -Will

^ You told them it had a small block?!?! When I went to the DMV to register my car, the guy was asking me questions and such, and asked "Its a 6 cylinder right?" And I replied "Uhh...ya?" Insurance company never asked, so I never told lol. -Will

You think the place selling this car would have done a little bit more digging to get some more information on the car. Im sure they could find the shop that did the work or something. Expecting to sell a car for 30k+ when you can't give a single bit of info on the car is a stretch. And the people saying that isn't a 100k car, well duh. I can tell yal right now my Z probably isn't worth half of what I've put into it, and I think most "car guys" can say the same thing about most of their vehicles. Unless you are restoring something with the sole intention of selling it, your probably going to lose money on any car you put money into. It is a good looking car though -Will

If you don't actually have 40gb worth of data that you care about, you can use something like Dropbox to save your important files. You get 2gb of storage for free. I use it to have access to my files from other computers when Im at school and what not, but it would work to back up important files. I can't speak on any of the actual "back-up" services. JSM mentioned the external hard drive though, that would be the best way to do it, they are cheap now a days. Although if you were worried about fire or something, guess that wouldn't fix that issue unless you stored it somewhere else. -Will

Man I wish I could go do that in my car I have got to get some axles so I can stop shifting like im 80. -Will

My header design is clearly the best way to go! -Will

Ya mine was a 98. And yes on the 98s the alternator wire goes to the chassis wiring harness, not the PCM like the 99+. If you don't wire in a resistor(The Z fasten seatbelt bulb also works if your in a pinch an hour from home on your maiden voyage back to college in your new LS1 swapped Z, ask me how I know). Ya thats the wiring diagram I used, so the 99s are probably a little different. -Will

Neither the oil pressure or the water temp run through the PCM on the 98. I know the water temp goes to the PCM on the 99+, not sure about the oil pressure. I did use the PCM's output for the speedo and tach though, it was easier than gutting the wire out of the stock harness and running it straight from the speed sensor to the gauge. The LS1 outputs a 4 cyl tach signal so I just set my gauge to that and it works great. I eventually plan on wiring my fans into the PCM with a master on override switch so I can leave them going while the car is off, but for now they are just on a switch -Will

Is that a T56 car? Cause if it is you got a really good deal. Even if its not thats not a bad price at all for an LS1 car. Should be able to make some decent money parting the rest of the car out. -Will

Hmm my clutch fluid doesn't get black that fast(If it even gets black, I never really paid to much attention to it, it does get dirty though). I will say the T56 is known for not being a good shifting transmission, they are tough as nails, but shift kinda shitty. I got my slave cylinder from Monster and it seems fine, clutch fluid gets dirty, but I don't think it really effects the operation of the clutch. Is your clutch line too close to your exhaust maybe? If its getting too hot it will definitely make your clutch disengage poorly. I'm not saying the heat is making your clutch fluid turn black, but if its getting to hot, it will have negative effects on your shifting ability. Thats a neat idea for the brace though, I haven't noticed any ill effects of mine, but I could see the firewall flexing. -Will

That wiring diagram you posted first is the one I used when I first wired my car up, it works well. C102 is the purple starter wire, It is a single wire connector. You don't have to use it, its just the wiring that would go from your ign switch to the starter solenoid to tell it when to start. I just ran my own wire from the stock Z starter wire to the starter. As for the multiple orange wires, there is only one that actually goes to a connector to get BAT power, there are however multiple ones running through the engine wiring harness, they are all pigtailed together somewhere in the heep of wires. Don't over think the wiring, its literally as simple as that diagram makes it out to be. Power to 6 wires(Only techinically need 5, one of those is for some emissions crap(Smog pump I think, or the Evap solenoid). Disable the vats, ground everything, and give 12v to the starter and it will start right up. -Will