Heavy Z

Hah, I second that

Nice to get 'em out of the hole. Congrats!

Z-TARD speaks the truth...when machine gun Joe Viturbo decided to mount a large blade on the front of his car IN ADDITION to the two tommy guns already set up, people laughed him out of the room. Did that slow him down? NO! He was there, for the deathrace in 2000, regardless of the heckler's retort. Shrug off the nervous nellies, where would the Wright brothers be if they buckled to such pressure? There are untold dimensions you may access should you harness such power...wrote a song about it, like to here it? Here it goes: Be there, drive hard it's a 1,000 hp road-race machine, I hit the gears, tires spin burnt pocketbook syndrum creeps steadily in, that's alright, suckas left cold will my t56 and R230 hold? God only knows, the throttle means more to me, spine-tingling torque, V8 or rotary give it up, punk-ass-B's I hold big wastegates, a dream to most Z's until 170, when my Z wants to meet the sky flippin end-over-end, and you know why or maybe much less Did you hear that snap? Two month's rent, crap.

I had a very similar problem - car would start sometimes then just give you a 'click' other times. I looked everywhere for the problem with no luck. The problem may be excessive resistance that isn't allowing your solenoid to get a full charge. I am problem free now thanks to a small relay that re-routes the power, guaranteeing the solenoid is properly juiced even when hot. This should work for your situation too, mine is made by bosch but I don't have a link, this one does the same thing - look at the one called 'hot shot.' http://www.painlessperformance.com/relays.htm Good luck!

Hello everyone, I've been tossing around the idea of swapping the 383 from my blazer with the 327 in my Z. I want to keep the tranny setup as-is, the Z has a T5 (I know a 383 will be pushing it, but it's been so good this far ) and the blazer has a turbo350 (good for the truck but not my Z) - please let me know if I can swap flywheels or if I need to buy others, and if so, where? Thanks for the help,

This new setup sounds like it's got another zillion starts in it Mark so barring some unforseen event(please don't rain), I'll be there.

SUCCESS AT LAST! I found a bosch switch online that boosts the current to the solenoid - problem solved. In these old cars I've been told that excessive resistance can build up, and this switch makes sure the solenoid power is up to the job.

Battery is new and is fully charged. Thanks man, I'll keep looking for the illusive loose wire.

Update - the car started when I got home, began checking wiring/start car again, etc - about 10 times with no sign of what was wrong. So, I check it one last time and it starts. Five minutes later I try again and theres NOTHING but the click of my solenoid and my amp guage pegs at -45. Could the MSD box be causing this sort of trouble?

I already had the starter checked and it is ok. This is frustrating!

Thanks for the replies, let me go into more detail: All I hear is a click in the solenoid, and my voltmeter dips all the way to -45 amps. This big drop makes me think it's a short. Yesterday the car started 3 times, then the starter quit again. I checked the low power side of the solenoid, it's getting power. I also checked the lead from the battery and the ignition switch which is fine. I also noticed that when my key was in the run position there was no juice going to the coil - maybe this is due to the msd, maybe this is part of the short. Anyway, just for the heck of it I tried to fire it up this morning - it started without any problems and my voltmeter only dropped to about -10 amps this time. I don't want to drive it because I'm afraid the starter will leave me stranded. Any ideas?

Thanks both of you for the help. I've got a short somewhere, now comes the fun part of tracking it down.

Carter with mechanical secondaries is my vote.

The trouble comes in running an ati procharger through a carb - I also was very interested in this setup and after an exhausting search on the internet the consensus seemed to be that it isn't worth the hassle. Roots-type blowers seem to be better suited to carbs, if you want an ati then f.i. seems the way to go. That being said, your 400 could be built into quite a machine even without a blower. I've got a buddy with a 406 in his vette that dynoed somewhere in the mid-500hp range and 650 ft/lbs of torque. BTW, if I could fit a roots-type under my hood scoop on my carbed 327, or if an ati ran good on a carb, I would've done it yesterday.

No solenoid working or starter either(tested them, they're fine) - just a click from this relay (located on right side of passenger leg area). What is it, where do I get one, could it be the problem? Looks like a low to high voltage relay to me, but my local parts shop had no clue how to find one or whether it was chevy or datsun. Thanks!

Cruez, you probably took a quick look at nissan, only saw the first 8 cars, and gave up. Notice at the bottom there are 10 or so more pages of nissan concept cars. The fastest way is to click on any of the nissan cars and when it pulls up you'll see a list of all nissan concepts made over the years. Try it out...here's the mid-4 you were looking for: http://www.conceptcarz.com/folder/vehicle.asp?car_id=1892&autoShowID=&vehicleTypeID=0

Look on the bright side of things - you're lucky it's a T5 and not a chubby T56 or 700R4...

The deal-maker is the teal green flames.

Bang, I'm not down on Michael jackson - I was more interested in the pictures. He has a right certainly to do and be whoever he chooses.

UTVOLMAN had a post related to this topic, take a look at surgical history: http://anomalies-unlimited.com/Jackson.html Mr. CFB Lagoon rocks...

JUMP on that deal!!! You'll appreciate having the parts car for odds and ends, too.

Hours of fun here: http://www.conceptcarz.com/folder/make.asp

Cast iron block, gear reduction starter.

Great info, I really didn't want an exploding Z suprise, just a little extra power.

Thanks for the advice!