lilredZ

What heads are you bolting these to? The spacing between the primaries (what size?) and the mounting bolts looks huge...compared to my tiny tri-ys...see pic... I need some better headers fast...wanny come over and weld some up for me...? I have good beer...

I have heard of bolt on flange kits that allow you to attach a much bigger (1.75 or 1.875 inch for example) header to a stock bolt pattern. It fits the stock pattern then space transforms (flanges out) to a bigger pattern. What I don't know is if this will allow enough side clearance for the headeres to still clear things. Ideally I'd love a 1.875 set of tri-Ys that have the identical shape to what I have now...since these fit like they were built for the car. The passenger side needed the collector shortened but this only cost me $100 at the local exhaust shop. I am going to look into that flange kit (adaptor) and report back if I find anything decent. LilredZ

headman tri-y headers from e-bay but they are meak with 1.5 inch primaries. I am looking for something better.

I wish I could meet... What a story... My old block was pre-66 (64) and used a 5 bolt Bellhousng...which the gentleman that sold me the car was nice enough to tell me. He also provided a newer 6 bolt bellhousing. I attached the bellhousing and spent all day under the car trying to get the motor in it. After 4 hours or so I pulled the motor back out and realized that I had forgotten the block plate (fits between the motor and the C4 tranny). I decided to pull the flexplate to see why it was giving me so much trouble and realized that it didn't fit the new bellhousing. I did some research and have since learned that the 6 bolt bellhousing uses a 157 tooth flexplate...as opposed to the 160 tooth for the 5 bolt.... Now I will have to wait until after the new year to get my new set-up going...I am so dissapointed...but so goes the life of hot-rodding. So...after then I am happy to drive anywhere in the Bay area (providing I have the time) to meet. I like to see other z-cars and exchange ideas etc... lilredz (Rusty)

Update - Decided to give the Brodix Tr1 Ford Heads another shot. Just got the motor back from Hubbards machine. They did a valve job and fit the heads on the new Dart block. I am running Ross racing pistons (4.155s) and forged Scat Crank and rods. The Brodix heads will flow ~250 cfm so this is about 500 hp if I get everything perfect...not likely so I'm shooting for 450-475. In order for this all to work I think I'm going to need better headers. I'm running headman tri-Ys now (because they fit the Z so well). I may bjust go rent a tig welder, buy some flanges and weld up some larger tri-ys... Putting the motor in tomorrow....oh yea and the Tokiko struts...if I have time this weekend.

I will look into the Alsil Mount. Does anyone know if the C6 will fit in or will I have to modify something...?

These mounts are well placed but need to be beefed up. The Driver side pedestal weld broke at the seam with this motor in it. This SBF was running about 400 HP. My new block and internals will be pushing 600+...I don't think these components will handle it. Any takers on what is going to break next...? The C4 tranny? The R200 Diff? The Unibody Rails? I am going to beef up the mount pedestals by using a thicker gauge steel and adding some material structure. I will post it when it's done. I wonder what is going to give next. The Picture of the motor is the old one I just took out. I will post new pics of the Dart block once I get it back from the machine shop and put it in.

Update ! Knock in motor was satrter flange hitting the flywheel ballance. Had motor out so replaced all rod bearings. The bearings showed normal wear. Now the bad news: After putting the motor back in someone (me) forgot to tighten the oil plug. It fell out a couple of days later and by the time I realized what happened it did major damage to the rod bearings, discolored the rods and crank. I will document all of this when I update my blog in a couple of weeks (pics etc...). One of the pistons chipped out about a 1" piece at the top along the edge and there is NO sign of damage from that. We could only guess that the piece broke in smaller pieces and went out the exhaust?? Now the good news: I found a Dart block with forged internals. This is going in the rebuild. Going to bump the compression from 9.5 to 10.2 (using a head gasket). If I decide to blow it down the road (supercharger) then I can increase the gasket thickness a tad. So it will go from a 337 to a 369. I may also get the Brodix CNC ported 214s. This should put this configuration at about 500 hp...without any forced induction. I will document this in my blog when I am done. The old 289 block is still in excellent condition and looks as good as it likely did the day it was built. I'm only replacing it because I got a deal on the Dart and want to go to >600Hp eventually. When I'm done I expect the lilredZ to run high 10s low 11s....which should be enough to take a stock Z06 or even the new Viper....which was my goal in the first place.

BMW with a Ford motor...now that's unique! Any 1/4 mi numbers on that car? Sounds fun. I am going to post an update next.

Thanks again for the excellent info. Do you think I need to run forged to boost presure to say 4-5 psi? This car was built with slightly odd components (VW Rods ...supposedly good to 9k rpm) and hypereutectic KBs meant for a Chevy 366. I am happy to go turbo if the cost is less than say $3K and my engine will hold up. The turbo lag would be ideally suited for this light car because it really would not benefit from any more power out of the hole...it would just spin the tires....as it is now she hooks up real good with no real tire spin. a little tire spin would be a bit welcome.

i'm not sure how they would fit your 200sx but i'm running headman tri-y headeres (standard 289/302 headers) that i bought off e-bay for $147. they seem to do the trick although they seem a bit narrower (smaller diameter) than those (custom ones) in my other thread "Dart Block...".

These headers look hugh compared to mine. I have headman tri-ys and they seem tiny when looking at these. The best quote I have on custom headers so far is like $1800... Also, I wonder what the low profile intake does to the breathing...ultimately to the HP of the motor...any feedback is appreciated as this sounds like an excellent combo for us FORD conversion guys.

Well well well... The knock turned out to be the flywheel counterballance weight hitting the starter flange. It's an aftermarket high torque starter and I guess there was just enough movement (for some reason) to cause the weight to hit the starter. This makes sense because we couldn't pinpoint the noise even from under the car with a stethescope...the noise was loudest in the center of the bellhousing under the car!! I am going to replace the rod bearings anyway...while the oil pan is off. We noted that the side to side clearance on the rods is about .030" on average. We think that's high. A Ford stroker book we have says that it should be .010" to .020"... I am likely going to buy a crate 347 motor at some point. I may try the 351/408 if I can convince myself that it will fit.

I would love to put in a 351W but the problem is that the deck height is too high....I think... I am going to take some careful measurements tomorrow when I take it out to see. I do like the idea though. Thanks

I ntook a look at Terry's "CarDomain" page and am humbled beyond words...all I can say is...wow... That alternator hooked up to the drive shaft is ingenious and the creativity and obvious follow-through is amazing. Nice work!!

For my specs: You can click on the pictures to make them larger: http://osgoods.blogspot.com/2007/04/...tsun-240z.html Ok...for a list of mods: 289 Sm Block (1964 -040E-6015C) 337 cu in Bore = 4.03" Stroke = 3.3" 302 Ford Crank KB178 Pistons 17cc Audi 5.35" Sm. Jnl connecting rods 62cc chamber .002" deck Brodix Track1 Ford Heads Intake= 2.055 Exhaust = 1.6 Cam .547" Lift Hydrodyne Intake Flows 250 CFM @ .5" lift 6:1 rockers on solid lifters 9.2:1 Compression Gary Williams 820 CFM Holley Carb Victor Jr. Intake Manifold Custom Oil Pan MSD Ignition Est. 400+ HP Ford C4 tranny with Gear Vendors Over/Under (making it like a 6 spd) R200 Rear End 3.5 Ratio Roll Cage with 4 point seat harnesses Racing seats Koni Suspension Wilwood custom Brakes with 12.18" front and 11.4" Rear rotors

Yea...sorry for the "quick-draw" dis on my own block...without explanation... The block is likely ok but I understand that its only reliable up to 500 hp. I can buy a roller Dart block for $4200 on e-bay. In my mind, if I'm going to pull this motor and do a rebuild I may as well (as I tend to do) try to turn this into a win/win and drop in something that I can boost or do whatever I want....down the road. The upper components (Brodix Tr1 Ford Heads, Gary Williams 4150 Carb etc) are expensive and worth keeping. When I'm done I'll have a $10K motor....or a motor that will otherwise cost me $10K to buy. That said I am a Chevy Guy (Old school) who has never built a Ford before and am learning about the idiosyncrasies of these motors every day. As such, I am happy to hear the conventional and unconventional wisdom of those who know (waay) more than me. My Z was built well and handles incredibly well with the Ford (as it sits low and aft) and I love it...so I am going to switch hit and build a strong Ford motor....may as well since I have to pull it... I appreciate the constructive feedback!

Well, I ran my lilredz pretty hard for about 20 1/4 mi runs and raced a few cars (won all of them) and now she has a knock. This 64 289 block simply wasn't made for this type of abuse...or what I call standard driving. I don't speed in residential areas no matter what!! My best race was my buddies C55 AMG (2006) Mercedes. I pulled 3 car lengths in the first 100 ft. then he stayed with me pretty well. Everybody else was a smear...G35, Suped up Camaro, one guy with a Harley and a few idiots in trucks (what cha got there a race truck...hehehe). I mean you can hear that I'm running a V8 so it's easily a 300 HP motor so you would have to have what 600 HP in your truck just to keep up...And 600 HP in a truck is hard to hook up better than me... Anyway she has a knock and it's pretty bad. So I'm going to save some pennies and buy a Dart short-block in a couple of months. The one I found has all forged internals and costs $4200 (ebay). I will use my cams and upper end and go with a 347. Any inputs are welcome. LilRedZ

doesn't look like these will fit my engine...but they do look good...almost worth changing engines for...!

hey did you say you had video of my car? can you forward it to me? rustyosgood@yahoo.com thanks

It's running the Limited Slip R200. It barely squeels the tires...so it hooks up pretty well but it will slip .1 second off the 1/4 mile time if the tires break...This is evident on the time slip at the 60 ft mark... I am going to try to put nitrous 100 shot just to see if the block will handle an additional 50-100 hp. This is a relatively low cost and safe way to test it from what i've read so far. Do you know where I can get 4:11 gears for this differentail. I am relatively new to this type of car...old chevy guy...I used to have a chevy monza with a punched out 327 (carb on fuelie 2.02 heads)...it was fast but this car is scary fast...handles like a dream...I have a 2003 BMW and it feels like a truck compared to this Z. I appreciate your feedback.

now i'm really confused because a local tuner and z builder recommended pulling the whole motor and going with an LS2 motor...his opinion is that the blower causes all sorts of problems...he first mentioned the carb being under pressure etc... he didn't seem to have any more specific reasons but i tend to follow conventional wisdom if it's well founded...but i'm going to get the paxton carb (850 cfm)...and it seems this should work...right? i hate to sound so ignorant but this is not a cheap sport and i want this done right...i have no problems experimenting with less expensive stuff but $4k is a bunch of money to have to shelf if it doesn't work.... worst case i can think of is that it blows something in the motor...in which case i keep the components and buy another (better built) motor...i will have to ask paxton what other motors this will work on.

i need to be able to run pump gas. i do not want to increase the compression beyond its current 9.2:1 because i like the idea of running pump gas...i'm not looking to push this block beyond 500 hp because its a 64 ford 289 and from what i've read, it wont handle >500 too well... i found a blow through supercharger that will fit. i will have to buy the 850 cfm carb from them (Paxton) as well. total cost = $4k...for 100-125 added HP. then i have to tune the exhaust which will cost another $2k so i think this is what i'm going to do...although i am open to opinions and feedback since i am so new at this.

I need to research a low profile supercharger for my z. It has a built 750 (actually 820) cfm holley carb on it and Vic. Jr. Intake....

thanks...yes it has a rollcage and i'll find out what the seats are...