Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Part by part could be an expensive way to build an engine. Especially FI.
Complete, running LT1's with all wires, sensors, computer and auto transmissions can be had for less than $1700.
Carbs have a lot of proponents. They are much less expensive intially and can be tuned without a lot of expensive equipment. They can make big HP numbers also. But they can't retune themselves for cold weather or altitude like a FI, computer controlled car can. IMO FI is the way to go for a car that is going to be street driven.
If you want carbs, better decide before you drop $$ on LT1 parts. LT1's can be converted to carbs, but why incurr the added expense? Just start with a carbed SBC.
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A 240 is a nice running engine. The cars are an absolute blast to drive. I orginally bought my 240 with a V8 in mind, but the inline 6 proved so much fun to drive and easy to work on.
Swap now or later. Either way you can't go wrong.
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You will still be the same person in Florida you are in Texas. You will rebuild your network in short order.
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Yeah, it displaces oxygen, as well as disrupting the chemical chain reaction that occurs during fire. Between these two properties, if you take a lungfull of this stuff you will not be a happy person afterwards. I've breathed in just a small concentration and it was enough to nearly make me pass out after the initial panic reaction. Almost feels like breathing in water. Bad stuff. Stick with C02 or ABC extinguishers.
Not to be a PITA but the whole point of Halon is it puts out fires by chemically interfearing with the fire and NOT by displacing the oxygen.
CO2, on the other hands, relies solely on displacing all the oxygen. Get stuck in a room full of Halon and you will be able to run out and bitch about it on the internet. Get stuck in a room full of CO2 and you will pass out immediately. That is why Halon was so popular for electronic/electrical switchgear rooms. The only reason they stopped making it was because of ozone damage. Really, if it wasn't for the ozone thing Halon is about the best thing to carry in a car. ABC dry chemical extinquishers are corrosive and will damage your car if not cleaned up right away.
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I can appreciate your efforts on the swap. Looks like you put quite a bit of effort into it. BUT unfortunately hybrids like yours usually sell for around $6K fully finished. I know that is pennies on the dollar (not to mention time) but that is the unfortunate fact. If the paint is as good as you say it could be worth a good bit more, but as I think you know your ad doesn't present it well.
There is nothing really special about your engine choice. Complete aluminum head LT1's with all sensors, computer and auto auto transmissions are listed on ebay for less than $1700 all the time. And even then they don't sell. The iron head engines maybe as capable as the aluminum ones, but they are still much less desireable. An aluminum head LT1 weights less than the Nissan inline 6. That is a huge deal to moste people. Also, say iron head and I think worn out cop car motor. I am sure others will as well.
But most importantly, in case you haven't noticed, us Z owners are a notoriously cheap bunch.
My suggestion is to get the thing finished and take some glamor shots out in the sunlight. If you make it look immaculant, then you might get a few thousand more. I am not sure what you are expecting finished price, so it is hard to say if you are pricing it fairly.
One last things, you might want to rethink that "mid 11 sec" comment. Take a look at some of the 1/4 mile times in a few signatures on this site to see what I mean.
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Looks like a young columbine wannabe just looking for attention.
Hardly worth wasting bandwidth on.
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The reaction disk is one issue, adjusting the length of the rod going from the pedal into the booster is another. Most report needing to lengthen that thing by at least 3/4 of an inch.
Were you getting fluid out as you pumped the brakes during bleeding. if the rod is too short, the MC won't pump until the pedal is almost on the floor.
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Worn bushings will increase turning effort. You get so much slop ein the rubber that you invest a lot of effort loading and unloading the rubber pieces as you turn the wheel. Another thing to replace is the rubber steering coupler. Get rid of it. Put in a urethane one (or do as one guy did and drill out a hockey puck). My 240 went from requiring both arms to maneuver in my parking garage to turning with the palm of one hand. The difference (with 195 street tires) was unbelievable.
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If you read back through a lot of old posts you will see there are many different opinions on the topic. I think the one thing everyone agrees on is CV's can handle more angularity than U joints. Just the nature of the beast. There is also a strongly held believe that the U joints without a grease zerk are less likely to crack than the ones with zerks.
Beyond that I think you will get a lot of opinion and speculative evidence, but little hard fact.
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They take all the give out of the brake pedal. Rubber lines will swell so you can still get an extra half inch or so of pedal travel once the brakes are full on. That doesn't happen with stainless lines. Once you hit full brake pressure it is like stepping on a brick.
Whether that is better or not I don't know. Definitely more solid.
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He threw some sparks from underneath when it first came back down to earth.
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Guys guys guys. When he told you he was the Ferrari club president, the correct response is to offer him some Viagra.
Just proper etiquette.
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It would be a shame to build all that HP into the engine' date=' only to put an effective governer on it by installing a weak rear end, no?
[/quote']
You're not going to be able to use "all that HP" with out building the chassis to near race car specs anyway. So back to the original question, what do you want to do with the car? If you aren't going to bring the chassis up to the level of the engine, then maybe you need to build the engine to match the chassis? Or just be happy you have a gorgeous street machine with more engine than you can ever use.
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Question: But I live in Chicago and drive it to work in the winter every day on severely pot holed
streets covered with salt.
Answer: You're an idiot.
Gotta love a direct answer!!!!
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Reading that site I now know where all the organ donors hang out.
What a bunch of maroons. They kept saying "first Kellen Winslow and now this".
If you look at the first couple of pages it is all a bunch of guys bashing the cops for not having anything better to do. Later on it is people from all over posting to tell those guys what a bunch of Darwin candidates they are.
The guy did 145 mph on a surface street in the rain in the middle of the day on a bike with a passenger, no plates and bald tires. And somehow the cops are the bad guys. Sounds like they did ME a favor.
But that is absolutely classic. Amazing how stupid people can be. It is like those guys who get busted for video taping themselves molesting the underage neighbor girl (or boy).
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They're CHEAP. My 12" Wilwood rotors were ~$40 each, and you don't replace the hat.
Cheap! The Chinese made rotors for my Wife's minivan are only $22 each. And that includes an integral hat!
BTW, does anyone turn rotors these days?
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Hard to believe you can tub the rear without disrupting the outer body work. Guess you have proved you know what you are doing though.
I think of JohnC's words and go back to what you want to do with the car. Since this won't be a hard core track car, why to you need super sized rear tires? Or for that matter a solid rear axle? Why not keep it IRS and just be happy that your engine is not the limiting factor in your 1/4 mile times?
Just a personal choice but I agree with the guys who feel flairs disrupt the lines of a Z car.
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I had some very scary times in the Rockys with an early production 2500HD chev a couple years ago' date=' had a heavy trailer on gravel mountain logging roads. The ABS wasn't very happy with the amount of slippage on the gravel and left me without much braking until I pulled the big fuse under the hood.
Doug[/quote']
Absolute classic. I hate ABS brakes. I will book mark this quote for future arguments. Don't know why they can't put a switch on ABS and air bags. Or better yet, make them optional. Guess that would require the government to actually trust us.
Scary that brake hard line could rust so quickly. Aren't they suppose to be stainless steel?
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Yes, the fuel in the carb can turn to varnish if left to sit that long. Also the oil will collect water and the engine internals can rust.
Try doing a search on this topic. I have seen posts detailing a bunch of steps you could take. At the very least change the oil and filter then prime the oil system before attempting to turn the engine over. You also need to worry about liquid in the cylinders. If you don't check these things, you could easily toast the engine.
There are 100 other things to consider. For example, your brakes may not work either, so be very careful if you attempt to drive the thing.
1/4 mile times are impossible to guess with out more info. When you search on the above you will see quite a few 1/4 mile times for different engine combos.
BTW, congratulations on your new car.
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Hope he doesn't plan on driving it in the Canadian winters. They go through snow pretty well but the heaters are next to useless.
JC Whitney has an excellent selection of beetle parts. Still pretty cheap to work on.
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Looks like a pretty serious car, but without a dyno sheet how can you know what HP it is putting out?
Would like to see the dyno sheet because this will set a new upper limit for a NA L28.
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Damn the bidding is at $9000. Stuff like that really makes me think about selling my 240. I mean if a clean stock 280 is going for that much what is a clean modded 240 gonna go for?
Isk
Not as much as the stock one.
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Phalanx is a short range, terminal defense weapon. It is also obsolete and being removed from ships. The one on the Stark was turned off at the time of the exocet strike, so not really the weapon systems fault.
The white house staff does have sholder fired Stingers.
But a PAC3 missile battery would be cool. Now that would do some damage.
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I hope my Z looks half that nice when it grows up.
The only thing I would do to that car is drive it.
4x4 sunk in cement, how to remove em ?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Every time I have done it I just used a hand held post hole digger and dug a new hole around the old. You only need to go about half way around. Can then rock the post side to side and get the post and all the concrete out. Would have helped had you not cut the old post flush first.
Originally I tried all kinds of way to do it with less work, but always ended up doing the above. I imagine a back hoe would be the best but I didn't exactly have one laying around.
Also remember concrete is brittle and cracks easily. Once you get the surrounding dirt out you can easily chip it away from the post with a sledge or digging bar.
Good times......