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Pop N Wood

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Posts posted by Pop N Wood

  1. Was trying to say it doesn't matter. The whole idea is to keep air from being sucked back into the caliper on the backstroke. Doesn't matter how you do it. Closing the bleed valve at the bottom of the pedal stroke, using a tube immersed in fluid, using speed bleeders (basically check valves) or using a vacuum pump will all do the same thing. The only real "trick" is partially shutting the bleed valve with the tube method. Otherwise air can leak in through the threads.

     

    As far as pumping the pedal with the valves closed, that is a new one on me. Guess it might stir up the mud, but not sure what the advantage of that is.

  2. Wyle E. Coyote. Genius. Potential Darwin award winner right there.

     

    Man you know it is good when the ebay engine type is listed as "unknown".

     

    Where do the engines draw air from? Behind the driver's seat? Better make sure the cup holders are secure.

  3. I think you can get to a Z's bleed valve by just turning the wheels.

     

    The advantage of a two person bleed operation is you can close the bleed valve to raise the pedal thus preventing air from being sucked back into the caliper. It is a nice way to do it but not necessary. I don't have many friends so I bleed brake by myself. Put a length of clear plastic tubing over the end of the bleed valve and place the other end in a jar of old brake fluid. Loosen the bleed valve then finger turn it closed until you just start hitting resistance. You can then pump away at the brake pedal until nothing but clean fluid come out of the tube.

     

    On the occasions where I do have help, I will flush the system as described above, then the last few pumps close down the bleed valve to let up the pedal.

  4. Charge the battery up, clean the posts whether they look clean or not and try again. The pinion comming out but the motor not turning is a classic symptom of a drained battery. Enough juice to work the solenoid but can put out the massive current needed to spin the starter. And you need to check the battery voltage under load to know if it is drained or not.

     

    Pretty hard to burn up a starter, but it can be done.

  5. That's the problem with people these days. They don't want their kids getting picked on.

     

    Not me, by God. I dress my kids in hush puppies and horn rim glasses. With tape. I make them play dodge ball against the 6th graders. And when they come home I make them pop tall and recite their daily orders. I am breeding a platoon of nerdy little warriors.

     

    When they grow up I will buy them long black trench coats and teach them how to make pipe bombs. Total old school.

  6. LT1 V8' date=' straight plugs, block huggers, plug change in 15 - 20 minutes. While the engine was in the donor car, 45 minutes just to get them out.

     

    Changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor in my GMC Safari mini-van, V6, 2 hours. Billable shop time 4 hrs. Requires going in through the wheel wells to get at most of the plugs.

    The shop wanted to charge me $400.00 bucks parts and labor to do it, I said "I don't think so!!!!".

     

    Wheelman[/quote']

     

    Oh man, going through the wheel wells is a good idea. Looking at the motor in my wife's Toyota minivan I just figured the plugs were going to last the life of the motor. But now I have a bad O2 sensor in the back bank and a smog check due. I am not sure how to even check the damn thing without cutting through the firewall.

     

    Actually it is not an O2 sensor but an "Air Fuel Ratio Sensor", i.e. a wideband O2. A $262 part.

  7. These counties only require a smog test when ownership is transferred into affected zip code out of state transfer in' date=' but no bi annual check after that.

    [/quote']

     

    Sounds like a smog check to me. What good is any of this information going to do this guy since he is transfering in from out of state? How will he get a title and tags?

  8. A bad master cylinder will also do just what you described. A little rust in the bore, an old rubber plunger or a spec of debris getting under the plunger will cause the MC to move without building any pressure. The problem can be intermittent like that. Back when I was poor I have driven cars like that for months.

     

    Not saying that is your problem but maybe the brakes failing shortly after the overheating is just a coincidence.

  9. Always got better endorphin rushes off of a long road bike ride. Once I get in the groove it always feels more like flying.

     

    Now being fat, old and with little time I find mountain bikes wear me out faster. Especially with a trail a bike and 4 year old in tow. Sort of an 8 minute abs type of thing.

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