Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I assume it is a small block, but don't know for sure. I have no idea if it even mounts the same. Suppose to have all kinds of nice things like forged internals and titanium rods.
It is a little hard finding precise information on the web. People had been speculating about the engine for some time. I think Cadillac used it in an STS concept/race car.
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According to the Scoggin Dickey site the LS7 is a big block' date=' so I think I would be better with the LS6........... ?
Am I barking up the right tree here guys ?[/quote']
Chevy reused the engine designations from the 70's. SDP indeed sells the classic big block 454 "LS7". But if you do some web searches, you will find the "LS7" engine for the new corvette.
Look here
http://www.alnet.ch/corvette/Engines/HTML_Index/corvette_engines.htm
Here was the link selling the engine. Says available fall of 2005
http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/store/search.aspx?SID=2&
You can get a new LS6 minus computer for $7400
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No. I am talking this engine
Damn search function isn't working again. Someone had posted better pictures and a link to the site that would be selling the engine. (Forgot to mention they just released the Corvette and haven't started selling the engine yet)
I assume it is a small block? Anyway if you contact Scoggin Dickey I am sure they will get you the info. They are also an excellent source for GM engines.
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A concealed weapons permit.
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Rumor has it that GM will be offering the LS7 in crate form soon. It is for the new Corvettes. 7 liters of aluminum block V8, 500 HP. With your budget you ought to look into that. Should mount just like the LS1 (I imagine) and would flat rule a Z car.
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I know everyone's experience is different, but my brother and best friend have both just sworn off Dodge/Chrysler trucks. Both had expensive drivetrain problems at low miles. My buddy goes in for the ball joint recall in the near future.
I have an older Tacoma. Toyotas have been good to me. The Toyota got upsized to almost full sized status this year.
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Some past posts have listed all the advantages of the LS1. One of the biggest is a vastly improved head design that flows better than the old SBC's heads. That means you can get much more HP with less cam, all of which means better street manners. Like you said all aluminum block and heads, FI and a vastly improved distributorless ignition.
GM sells complete LS1 crate engines, including computer, with what they call a street rod tune. The December issue of Car Craft magazine tested one and it dynoed at 402 HP right out of the crate. $6200 US, complete with a 12 month warranty. The magazine also listed what missing parts you need to complete the engine (it wasn't much).
The only possible concerns are cost and any smog laws. It is kind of a mixed bag here in the US what smog equipment is required to be "OBDII" compliant.
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All missing smog equipment from the original car, or the motor that went into it?
They should be one in the same. If you put a different motor into it, then you have to get the swap certified by the state of California. The engine has to be from the same year car or newer. The smog equipment is then set by the motor.
It has been said before, but "exempt" only means exempt from testing. Legally all cars must have the required smog equipment, no matter what year. I think that is true no matter what state you live in. Obviously it is easier to get around this in some states than in others.
Maryland actually has more invasive smog testing than most states, but only in certain counties (the Baltimore DC area). The western counties (I don't think) don't have to smog test their vehicles. But if the car is sold, then it has to have a state inspection and technically the inspection station is suppose to check for the required smog equipment. So just to be safe (and for the challange) I hope to certify my pending swap.
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Texas A&M huh? Explains a lot
Guess we have officially high jacked this thread.A physicist looks at this problem and sees the energy released by combustion as the ultimate source of energy. An engineer starts with the gasses being accelerated through the turbine nozzles and works his way backwards. Most gear heads have gone onto a different thread by now
What I am saying is an abbreviated version of your wording here:
You want the heat back in the cylinders' date=' not for the heat itself, but for the pressure increase it generates on that discrete volume. If you could add pressure without adding the heat, then that would be ideal. But because of the whole PV=nRT, we can't..[/quote']
The original question is whether suffering heat loss before the turbo stage is desirable or not. PV/T says no. Keep that energy in the exhaust stream for as long as possible and expend it all in the turbine stage if you can.
O ringing the heads, ceramic coated pistons and down pipes, iron vs. aluminum heads, avoiding cross over pipes, even ceramic turbos. All ways of managing exhaust energy and effectively dealing with the increased pressures/temperatures. Putting a turbo where the cat mounts goes against all those principles. But if that “remote mounted turbo†provides sufficient boost, then don’t worry about the loss in efficiency and enjoy the other benefits.
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Some pretty good info. Trouble with 305's is people can't leave well enough alone. Put the 305 in and next thing you know someone will want 400 HP out of it. If you want that much HP, then one could argue the 350 will be cheaper than a 305.
Dan Juday sure has a gorgeous Z with a 305 in it. He has written some pretty interesting posts about how enjoyable the car is. It all depends upon what you want to do with the car and how well you stick to your plan.
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Yes, California requires all vehicles entering the state to undergo an inspection prior to licensing. Any missing smog equipment has to be replaced regardless of the cost. That is how I ended up with a Z. The car I brought from the Midwest had no hope of passing smog and I couldn’t afford a new one right away. So figured I would buy an old car that was worth putting money into and wouldn’t lose value. A Z was perfect. So smog laws do accomplish some good.
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The Jags That Run manual still has usefull information for the ZX swap. So the fact he is consulting them isn't necessarily a rip off. But like everyone has told you they don't have a "kit" for the ZX.
Do what tony78_280z said and ask the guy for a detailed listing of what has been spent so far. You can then post it here and I am sure you will get a lot of expert advice.
The fact that it is getting expensive is not hard to believe. There are several guys on this site who run professional shops who won't take on this kind of work because it does get so expensive and the custormer often has a hard time understanding that.
On the up side, when he is done you should have a phenomenal car. Beats the snot out of the 6 cylinders.
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I bought fuses today *does a little jig* I got three boxes of 5 fuses. AGC-15, AGC-25, AGC-30. *Looks confused* What does that mean?
the 15, 25 and 30 are the amp ratings at which they blow. You need to put the right sized fuse in the right slots, otherwise you risk destroying things. The fuse holder should tell you what amp fuse to put where.
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May want to search again. The topic has been discussed many times.
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Well like I said I bought it 15 years ago so I don't know if they even make the things anymore. Also there is a difference between the tachs on the old 240's (like mine) and the 280's. I know they have a web site so you may try contacting them directly.
I don't know the answer about the condenser and the HEI.
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I have been using a Jacobs ignition on by L6 motor with stock points for probably 15 years now. Seems to work fine. Had no problems with it. I have had the same set of points the whole 15 years. I don't notice a big difference between it and the stock ignition, but my engine mods are limited to carbs, headers and ignition. Not too stressing. They also sold some type of amplifier that makes the early 240 style tach work with the HEI type ignitions.
Before that I put one on a worn out, oil burning 69 Camaro. This was probably 1977. It made all the difference in the world on that car. Kept the plugs from oil fouling.
Good company. Don't know if they are any better or worse than MSD.
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Well, no. Not trying to be condescending or get into a pissing contest of any kind. Just want to see the correct information in the posts.
The idea that the exhaust velocity is what moves the turbine is a common misconception. It is a somewhat confusing discussion since the exhaust is accelerated in the turbine stage as it is allowed to expand. But make no mistake, the hotter the exhaust charge, the more energy it contains and thus the more work that can be extracted from it.
Pick up a thermodynamics book and read the sections about the Carnot cycle, specifically the concept of enthalpy. This link may be a bit esoteric but it is well hyperlinked to understand the concept of a heat engine.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/heaeng.html#c1
Another way to think of it is it is the heat being released by the gas burning in the combustion chamber that powers the engine in the first place. Not hard to figure that this same effect occurs in the turbine stage of the turbo.
Iron has a lower thermal conductivity than aluminum. That means it doesn't transfer heat as well as aluminum. For a NA engine, aluminum heads typically allow you to run more compression without detonation because it helps prevent hot spots from forming in the combustion chamber. But for an extreme turbo set up, you want to dissipate that excess combustion energy in the turbine. You do not want it to dissipate through the engine components into the coolant or oil. Thus iron head and ceramic coatings (to reflect the heat back into the exhaust stream) will increase maximum overall performance by increasing the maximum theoretical Carnot efficiency.
It is very true that overheating the turbo means it will not live as long. But for a race engine this is a price you pay for that last ounce of HP.
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Agreed. The Z history was pretty good, but the show itself was pretty weak. They were suppose to have 14 hours to modify the cars for a drag race with the winning team keeping both cars. Both teams opted for a cam, ignition, headers and 4 barrell carb. Oh the drama! They didn't even tune, just bolt and go.
Really hurt when they said they were "bringing a bit of high technology to a 30 year old car" as they bolted a Holley 390 on. With that set up they would have been better to keep the SU's.
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Change your screenname.
Thought the same thing.
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I'm sorry, I don't understand...and heat is good for a turbo....how[/i']? A turbo only wants exhaust gas velocity.
No, heat is energy. It is the expanding hot gasses that power the turbo. That is why high $$ turbo systems do things like ceramic coat the pistons and often run iron heads instead of aluminum. The more energy you can retain in the exhaust the more you have available to pump air.
But like I said, this system might be sufficient for the guy who just wants a slight boost and who isn't worried about building an all out race machine.
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That ststurbo site is kind of humerous. I don't doubt their kit does everything they say it does, but it is funny how they take drawbacks and try to spin them as positives. They brag about how much cooler the turbos run with a remote mount. Undoubtably true, but that just shows how much exhaust heat is being lost before it gets to the turbo. Guess if you are happy with the HP gain then it won't matter that things are being done inefficiently. It does have a lot of positives going for it.
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Z's with SBC's don't really have a weight distribution issue. Mount an aluminum head SBC in the JTR position with an R200 out back and the car will have a slight rear weight bias (at least Ron Tyler measured a 49/51 front to rear ratio with an LT1/t56 set up).
I think a vette is significantly wider than a Z, so that will further complicate such a swap. I would imagine the engine-rear end separation will be fixed by the torque tube, so you had better hope the vette and Z are nearly the same length also.
It is worth looking into, but I think it is quickly reaching the point that if you want a vette, why not just buy a vette.
My 2 cents.
Guess we have officially high jacked this thread.
Old School SBC or LS1 ?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
All true, but with an LS7 you would be one bad ass mofo.