Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I've often thought about doing this same thing' date=' but in WA state it's illegal and the road I was on has quite a bit of traffic. I was returning from a hunting trip so had the 30-06, good sharp knife and my 9mm to dispatch it with but it was just not a option. Also, have you ever seen bruised meat from a collision like we're discussing? The deer I hit was a real mess after the truck got done with it, not very appetizing.
Wheelman[/quote']
Maryland actually has a "road kill hotline". The state police will put your name on a list. When they find a fresh kill in your area they call the next person on the list and you have to go get the kill. My wife's cousin was on it for a time.
Seems a little over the edge to me.
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It's one thing to shoot one and get to take it home and eat it, but to run one over and have to leave it for the scavengers just plain sucks.
My uncle carries a hunting knife and plastic bags in his truck for just such a contingency. Whenever he comes across a fresh kill he takes the tenderloins. If the meat is warm there is no sense letting it go to waste.
A buddy of mine had a job that required him to commute 60 miles through the back roads of upstate New York. He said the deer were so numerous that he didn’t dare exceed about 30 mph. But he and about a half dozen other regulars had their commutes timed so they could get behind one guy with a 4 wd truck with attached snow plow. They would all fall behind this guy and do 60+ mph to and from work everyday.
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You're going to have to put your battery in front of the radiator to offset all that rear end weight.
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Get a test light or voltmeter and see if you still have power to the fan motor before you start looking for fuses.
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Depends on what you want to do. If you go to this site
http://metalshapers.org/101/index.shtml
and poke around abit, I think there is one article that says 1/2 inch is a minimum thickness for a metal working table top. But they do some pretty intricate metal shaping, so for them a thicker table is probably a necessity.
Here is one with 1/2 inch
http://metalshapers.org/101/draczuk/shoptip10.shtml
I made a killer work bench out of 2 and 2 1/2 inch pipe I got from a scrap metal yard. They had a pile of it as tall as a house that use to be fire sprinkler pipe in a building. Got it for 25 cent a pound and it makes a STRONG bench. For the top I just have plywood for now. When I weld I put down a sheet of cement board and maybe cover that with a piece of sheet metal for a ground plane. Eventually I will pick up some plate steel, but the wood top is nice for dual use work.
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Looking really nice. Couldn't figure out why the underside looked so clean until I saw the side pipes. Do hot sidepipes make it a hassle to get in and out? How did you fashion the subframe rails?
Sorry for all the questions but your car has given me a lot of ideas.
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If I remember correctly the LSD in the SRT-4 is actually a "Quafie" unit.
That's what I remember from the sales ads.
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I don't see how leaving a car parked and in gear can affect the clutch. Nothing is moving, nothing is slipping, what could wear out?
I have been driving manual transmission cars for over 30 years and have yet to replace a clutch on any of them. IMO leaving the car in gear is the only safe way to park them. To do anything else makes no sense to me.
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He's only a lad....
I'm the type of person who doesn't see the letters when I read. Only the whole word. I just sort of register the pattern and keep going.
Besides, who takes internet screen names too seriously.
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Can you see the rover and the flag? That would debunk the myth that we never went to the moon. .
Oh come on, don't be so naive and gullible. Where do you thing Google got these pictures?
From NASA, that's who. You don't think they can't photo shop in a picture of Arizona?
Think about it.
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I always thought Oingo Boingo.
On three go never registered.
Go figure
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Reflective insulation for use in a crawl space, attic, wall, metal buildings, and post and frame structures. Fiber free, environmentally safe, easy to install, and it is lightweight. No protective gear needed to install. Reflects 97% of radiant energy.
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You might do a search. A least have a dozen members have that brake kit on their car. All of them love it. Only real knock, beside the price, is the rotors need to be turned after installation to eliminate a bit of shimmy, no dust seals on the calipers and no parking brake. Dust seals probably don't matter and the parking brake is a matter of personal choice. But many people claim significantly improved track performance with that set up.
Arguably the best brake kit availiable for a Z.
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That guy sure made a big deal out of all the documentation for a car that is so far from being original. If the car was completely restored in 1991, then who cares about the oil change intervals before the rebuild? Just that much more clutter to throw away. I would much rather have a few pics of the interior or undercarriage than the salesman's buisness card.
And what does "matching numbers" mean when the car doesn't have the original transmission? I guess if you throw enough irrelavent facts into the sales pitch you might dupe some sucker into thinking it matters. Good thing he included the engine number. A purist will need to check that out!
The car is too much of a one off to be a collector. Maybe $7k, if it is as clean as he says. Would make a good V8 swap.
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Lots of people have thought about it, but few posses the $$$.
Don't know why the install would be any harder than an LS1 or maybe LS2.
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We need to get some 570Z emblems made.
Wonder what it would cost to custom build a set that look like the stock Nissan stuff.
BTW, sweet car. I wouldn't do anything to it except keep it running.
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Someone watches WAY too much porn...
Bingo!!
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But Old Borrow and Spend Bush will use our grandchildrens' income to fix it up, no problem.
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He might be selling Amway.
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You really need to do a search and read up about big block installs. I think you are getting the wrong impression about what would be involved in making one fit.
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Well, whatever you do don't start by getting thumped by the other members. People are pretty adamant about newbies reading the rules and using the search function to answer basic questions.
Start with site rules, a sticky at the top of the forum list. Then go to the FAQ section:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103836
After that use the search function and start reading old threads. What you need to do depends heavily on what you want to do with the car. Best way to figure that out is to start reading old threads.
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Depending upon what engine you are swapping, you may not have to do anything in the way of rear end changes or metalwork. If you do a carbed first gen SBC, then the JTR covers what you need to know (right down to templates for the motor mount plates). It is even easier yet if you buy the JTR pieces. If you want to run monster HP or fuel injection, then it becomes more work.
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Jbark thats awsome, I think Ill just go that route and weld my gears together, if i make a real sharp turn i can deal with a chip or two cause i dont plan on doing that daily anyways however highway yah i might have to do sometimes.. but if its good why not go that way!!!
You might want to do a search on welded diffs and get a few more opinions. Rumor has it they make the car hard to park and can be flat out dangerous on wet streets.
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There was some talk about I think 2.94 ratio's out of a Nissan Armada. No idea if anyone has gotten one to fit.
Roll cage street legal in CA???
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Many years ago I went to traffic court in California and heard the judge explain to some guy with a window tint ticket that there are different tint rules for factory tint vs. aftermarket tint. Essentially a car can be made with darker tint than can be applied afterwards.
BTW, this judge also threw out every window tint ticket that came before him. He felt it was more a case of racial profiling than a safety thing. Since every quy in the south bay court that day with a window tint ticket was hispanic, it sure looked like he was onto something.
And on the whole roll bar padding thing, your head is going to be just as busted if you hit sheet metal as if you hit a roll bar. So as long as your cage is tucked up tight to the body parts I don't see where an inch of padding here or there is going to make much of a difference in any type of serious wreck. But I realize I am in the minority on that opinion.