Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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If you want a cheap autoexer than leave the engine alone and work on the suspension, tires and wheels. If you can stay in the stock or near stock classes, you will have a much better chance of doing well. Swapping to another engine will put you into a non-stock class where you will undoubtably be less than competitive. In fact, you will most likely need to bring a bag to carry your *** home in after the guy with the turbo rotary engine in a bug eyed sprite hands it to you.
You also need to ask your self how much of a "track" car you want and how much you will drive on the street. Look at some of the recent threads on spring rates to get a good idea what suspensions will work.
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According to the book "The Z-Series Datsuns" by Ray Hutton (ISBN 0-947981-02-0) the S30 series cars had wheels that were "4.5 inch wide (later 5-inch steel and post-1977 British market 260Z, 6.5-inch light alloy wheels)"
So if you can verify the 6.5 inch alloys, you should be good to 8", right?
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I have been planning the swap myself for some time. I think you will find people on this site will be very helpful if you make some effort to research such general questions yourself first.
Here, start with this thread
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67949&highlight=jeromio
then follow the links to some of the member sites who posted on that thread. Particularly jeromio, maichor, phantom and mas280.
you might also try searching the chevy forum for LS1
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....kind of why you need a prescription for Sudafed..if you know what I mean.
LOL
I am going to use that one again.
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Old Volkswagon Beetles had "automatic stick shifts". They took both ATF and manual tranny fluid.
Maybe those had what you are asking about?
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Oh yeah, here it is
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102668&highlight=%22RPM%22+%22plugs%22
PS: none of my comments in the aforementioned link pertain to anyone on this thread.
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Didn't someone else just complain about this in a recent thread? I think he had changed spark plugs though.
Or maybe it was Aux linking to some goofball thread on another board.
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If the wiring is too small in the total fan power circuit (like running it from the harness like Tim has) then you get less voltage at the fan due to the wiring acting like a resistor. Electric DC motors tend to draw less current when run below their designed voltage. [url=http://www.gizmology.net/motors.htm]http://www.gizmology.net/motors.htm[/url'] That could be one reason that Tim's 20A fuse hasn't blown.
Other way around. Lowering the supply voltage increases the current draw.
In a DC motor, the speed is almost directly proportional to the supply voltage. See this link
http://homepages.which.net/~paul.hi...ors/Motors.html
If you look at this plot
You will see that current goes up as the speed goes down. So lower voltage, more current.
If you run a DC motor significantly below it's design voltage, the motor efficiency drops off and the current draw will go up rapidly. Just like using too long of an extension cord on a power tool. Motors are much more complicated than simple resistors. Get them out of their designed operating band and they can go exponential on you quick.
Here is a companion link from the same site.
http://homepages.which.net/~paul.hi...ksBody.html#2.6
Maybe I didn't catch it, but I don't think Turbo Meister listed what gauge wire he was feeding the fan with. If that is too small, or there is a loose or corroded connector, then this will cause insufficient voltage at the fan and can greatly increase current draw. Fusible links and fuses are also resistors and can cause voltage droop. Dirty or corroded relay contacts (often caused by excessive arcing) will do the same (just like dirty points).
If he is blowing fuses where Tim is not, then my guess is he has a poor electrical path to the fan, a bad fan or a partial short to ground somewhere.
My advice is make sure all of your connections are tight and wire of sufficient gauge is being used to power the fan. Measuring the voltage before and after each connection with the fan running will tell you where a poor connection or undersized wire exists. If you have 14.5 V at the battery and only 10 V or so at the fan, then you might have a problem. I am not sure exactly what numbers to put on it.
Also I have worked with a lot of circuits which use diodes to absorb the inductive kick of the relay solenoids. But most of those where fairly substantial relays that were being used with sensitive electronics. I would be a little surprised if these relays used on a car fall into that category. But if the manufacturer is recommending a kick back diode then by all means use one. Do any of the car manufacturers include such diodes on their stock relays?
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Sounds like the law makers in your country have too much time on their hands.
Such detail.
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You might consider taking it to a frame shop and having them measure the misalignment. I know at one point I had an alignment shop refer me to a second alignment shop because they thought I needed to have a strut bent slightly. As long as the metal is not rusted or excessively crumpled, they should be able to pull it back into factory spec.
Probably not cheap, but I am sure someone who works in a frame shop and knows more than I do will chime in.
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How much material can you turn off the rotor and still be safe? If the run out is due to a crooked axle, then wouldn't you have to turn 15 thou off of both sides?
Seems like it would be better to shim the rotor. But then the center of the wheel would still be spinning about a cone. Wouldn't the tire then oscillate up and down as it spins? Maybe too small to notice. Should be relatively straight forward to calculate if one knew how far from the center of the axle axis (the radius) you measured the run out.
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The new exhaust is lighter, so less load on the rear wheels, the car compresses them less, larger effective diameter thus higher speed for the same engine revs.
Actually I don't know. If you have an automatic transmission then there could be something with less torque converter slip. Other than that it just may be the accuracy of the tach and/or speedo has changed. If it is an electronic speedo, maybe the sensor was disconnected and reconnected so there is a better and/or lesser quality signal?
Or maybe your eyes are just in better focus due to the lower carbon monoxide levels.
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Oh man. Now look what you guys started.
Vice grips have their place but they are definitely the tool of second to last
resort for any bolt or nut that you might ever want to use again. The only thing more destructive to nuts and bolts is the old "hot wrench".
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4 cylinder engines in rwd configurations weren't common until later in the century because there was no real need to have a 4 cyl.
Don't know that I would agree with that statement. The Model T was built from 1908-1927 and had a 4 cylinder with rear wheel drive.
http://www.hfmgv.org/exhibits/showroom/1908/specs.html
Pintos and Chevettes were all RWD 4 cylinders, as were the majority of the old British sports cars.
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That's not torque lifting the front. It is usually attributed to too much air getting under the front end. This is why anything above 130 usually means you have done a good job with the car.
Z car aerodynamics are not one of the top 10 reasons to own a Z.
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Not a bad idea. A pair of vice grips will steer a stolen car, but the theif might be totally unprepared for no shifter. Plus having a shifter come off while driving is not the safety issue a steering wheel would be.
Would also be smart to leave it in reverse instead of first.
Not sure how one would go about making a quick disconnect shifter that would be easy to reconnect and not be easily circumvented by just using a long screwdriver.
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Don't know that a fire extinguisher would have given you anything more than piece of mind. Until you "lengthed" the short the fire was just going to keep flaring up. That is unless the battery exploded. That might have put the fire out.
I have never been a big fan of batteries in the passenger compartment of street cars. Plastic covers are not sufficient protection either. You need something that will seal in the battery acid in the event of a roll over. Nothing adds to the joy of being trapped in an overturned vehicle like having battery acid dripping in your face.
Funny story though. Believe me, I have done worse.
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The theory will get you close. That is how the "open loop" mode works on engine computers. But there is a certain degree of randomness in everything. Not all injectors flow exactly like they should, parts have tolerances, engine heat up and cool down unevenly, not all gas is created the same, and of course air temperature, pressure and humidity are huge variables. Then there is the fact that one guy's idea of a "perfect tune" may be too conservative for someone else.
The best way to know if your set up in your vehicle is outputting the most it can is to hook up to a dyno.
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That article has been posted before. Looks pretty accurate. Three wires can do a much better job regulating the voltage since they can sense the voltage level at the fuse box. One wires have a voltage drop when the current goes down the supply wire, so they never really know the true voltage at the fuse box.
I can't comment on the prices for the site you listed. I am sure someone else will know. Good idea going to the bigger alternator if you are running an electric fan. Even better if you car is FI. Amazing how much power modern electronics draw.
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Try some synthetic gear lube in the tranny. Helped with balky shifting in mine.
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Something else to think about is the fact these old Z cars are not getting any more common. Trust me, you will always be able to find a girl you can talk about in overly dramatic terms, but rust free Z's are getting fewer and farther between. The value of the Grand Am is only going down with time. Baring an accident, that Z is probably worth as little as it ever will be, and with time should go up in value. You are chasing the wrong investment.
When I was your age, I was belly up to a bar in the Philippines watching one of the local women pick up a stack of Pesos from the top of my San Miguel. And now look at me. I am 47 with two degrees. I make a comfortable living designing billion dollar sensor systems for delivering weapons of mass destruction. I have a wife of 12 years, two kids, house in the burbs, and with the exception of my mortgage I am completely debt free with my 401K’s and kids college funds right where they need to be.
Now is your time to live life. Don’t wait until you are 50 to realize life is something that happened while you were waiting on something else.
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Good lord. Do I have to figure everything out for you?
Sell the Grand Am and use the money to finish the Z.
Some people sure needlessly complicate their lives. You have until you are 30 before you need to worry about such grown up things. And by "ex" I hope you mean "girlfriend" and not wife.
Kids these days. Everything is like an episode of "Party of 5".
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Now the trick is how do you get the nanotubes into the cancer cell but not the normal cells?
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How can you have parents AND a significant other dictating your life at the same time? Sounds like you are suppose to be in those in-between years where you get to be stupid and have no one to answer to but yourself.
Have you checked out the prices of new cars lately? If you scale back your mods to the car and just drive it, do you think you will average less than $500 a month on repairs (not to mention added insurance)? How much money are you really going to save buying a different car with a different set of problems?
Man, live life when you are young. Wait until you have a wife and kids to start sacrificing your own interests for other people. As a wise man once said, you ought to be out riding around in a convertible bird dogging chicks and banging beaver.
LS1 Guys... Check the damage to my LS1 out...
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
FWIW the ads for the LS1/2 on the new GTO's brag endlessly about the new oil pan being extensively baffled.
Speaking of baffled, Mike had me just about convinced that the cheapest way to a 400++ HP STREETABLE engine is to pick up an LS1 and cam it. That kind of HP in an LT1 or first gen SBC is not cheap and usually involves a good sized (i.e. not overly steetable) cam. From what I have read in car mags an LS1 can be driven to 500 HP with a cam that produces only a slight lope in the idle. Sounded perfect for what I want.
Obviously losing oil pressure is fatal to an engine, but blasting a hole through the block looks like the problem runs deeper than just the oiling system. I could see siezed bearings, wiped cams and scored cylinders, but "windowing" the block? Is an improved oiling system really the answer, or does getting 500 reliable HP also require a new bottom end?
Considering the higher price of used LS1's, which would be cheaper in the end. An LS1 with a $1500 oiling upgrade and $$$ bottom end, or would it be cheaper to get an LT1 with a set of AFR heads and forged internals?
Maybe overreacting.