Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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You were foolish enough to respond to his taunt.
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When the floods hit St Louis 10 years or so ago, the city had entire warehouses full of goods buried. No salvage. Claimed they were health hazzards due to all the sewage and chemicals in the flood waters. I know a guy who had his entire life's belonging buried that way as he was in the process of moving when Mayflower stored his house hold belongings in a warehouse by the river.
The problem is pretty massive. Hard to say how things will work out. The only thing for sure is it will take a month or two to sort out.
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The power brute 2 way, 4 pinion LSD's retail at $550. Suppose to be the same thing as the Nismo units. some claim it is the nismo unit.
How is $545 + $133 shipping a good price?
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From what I have seen appraisels ususally come in about $500 over the selling price. Tell the appraiser what the buyer has agreed to pay for the house, or what you want to refinance you own house for, and the appraiser will do the rest.
And not everybody wants pools or multi car detatched garages with lifts. Upgrades are nice, but the single biggest thing setting the price of your home is the availability of houses in your area. The only real way to tell is to see how quickly overpriced homes sell in your area. A realtor can do that for you.
And the real estate boom/bust is highly regional. I live near Ft Meade and the NSA area. The recent round of base closing are suppose to bring something like 20,000 additional jobs here in the next two years. They might even extend the DC metro to here. This is after the price of my home trippled in 5 years. Homes in my neighborhood sell in hours. Overpriced ones might take a few weeks to sell. Prices are not going down anytime soon where I live.
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The other cop who almost took the richocet didn't look too happy either. I will be he let a few higher ups know about it.
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This is a good place to start
http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/
There are others. Try the search function on this site. Quite a few members have posted good home brewed solutions.
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Is this looking at them from the side or the top?
Actually for the drive shaft it doesn't matter. You need to look at it from two different angles to get the total 3D view. Basically what VRJoe is saying
For the half shafts, your diff had better be lined up parrallel to the wheel, like 1 and 3, or your half shaft angles will be wrong. This means your engine centerline must be parrallel to the diff and wheels.
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Your way of doing it isn't going to work. Side to side means just as much as the verticel plane.
Best way I can think of it is draw a straight line out of the transmission shaft and a second out of the diff yoke. Line up the trans and diff so these two lines point straight into each other. this is zero angle. Now tilt the front of the engine down a half degree and the back of the diff up a half degree. The two lines will be perfectly parrallel (the exact same distance apart all along the line). This is 1° of drive shaft angle. You can also move the engine and (or diff) sideways by and inch or two. As long as it doesn't twist, the two lines will still be parrallel giving you a good drive shaft angle.
What you want is the angle between the transmission output shaft and the drive shaft to be exactly the same angle (but in the opposite direction) as the angle between the drive shaft and the diff yoke. That way the angle at the back U joint cancels out the angle at the front.
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You need to look at the high rust areas. The rear hatch area looks pretty good. But take a close look at the battery tray area and the quarter panels in front of and in back of the rear wheels. Floor boards gone means the frame rails underneath go with it, and usually this means half the sheet metal going up the fire wall as well. The unusual amount of rust in the hinge area makes me guess there was either some damage in that area that caused it to rust, or the rest of the car is in worse shape than it looks.
Weatherstrip looks gone, and from what I can see so is most of the interior. The engine stuff is of no use to you, so don't pay any extra for the car because of it. There is quite a bit of cosmetic work, all of which really adds up in terms of money and time.
On the other hand I have always like those wheels.
Keep an objective mind when you look at it. Don't make up your mind either way until you have spent some time looking it over. Like you said, it might look cleaner in person. Bet you can get it for less than $500. If it could drive the guy might be able to barter. But since it will need a flat bed to move you should have the upper hand.
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Screams Jaguar to me. XK120 in front and XKE from the side and back.
Beautiful car.
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I will bet you can get the car you pictured for less than $25 and the cost of the tow.
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What "LT1" heads are you referring to, the mid 90's reverse flow aluminum versions, or the early 70's cast iron versions?
grumpyvette always says one big advantage of aluminum heads are their ability to be repaired when cracked. He has also discussed at great length the sucessfullness of repairing iron heads.
My suggestion is to either look up some of his old posts or PM the man himself.
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It is generally believed that CV's work over a wider range of angles than U joints. When the rear end squats, the angles between the diff and stub axles get more severe. The angle stresses the U joints more than it does CV causing the U joints to break. If the rear suspension stays in a straight line, that is when most guys say U joints are as strong as the CV's
As for 1st to 2nd vs. 3rd to 4th, you are probably putting the same torque (hence stress) on the driveline components either way. But it is a fact of physics that the faster a car goes the less it is able to accelerate. Thus the butt-o-meter registers a smaller push when accelerating at speed even though the driveline maybe seeing the same forces.
Maybe you just got a bad joint, too. I wouldn't get too worried unless it happens again.
BTW, beautiful car.
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How is it everyone recommends a cage when no one knows how much power his engine will produce or what type of tires he will be running?
I somethimes think the "while I'm at it" syndrome affects peoples plans just from reading posts of what others are doing. People on this site are cage crazy, but if you read through a lot of different posts you will find that not a lot of the street cars actually have them.
The early 240's like you have are the lightest and unfortunately most flexible. Especially if rust has weakened the chassis at all. I have read posts where guys claimed one hard launch with their 400 CI SBC caused their hoods to no longer shut properly, and others where people have torn spot welds with repeated hard driving.
The floor pans and the stock "sub frame rails" under a 240 can be bent with a good swift kick. Subfame connectors ala Pete Paraska's (http://www.alteredz.com) design are probably not a bad upgrade for even a stock vehicle. Follow that up with good set of strut bars at a minimum. Beyond that you need to spend some time reading through old posts while thinking about just how hard you will be driving this car. Cross reference that with exactly how much engine you will have and how sticky you think the tires will be.
I would follow that same advice before you go solid rear axle. A bolt in R200 rear with some type of limited slip will easily support 400+ HP. Some people claim the R180 is all you need for that kind of HP. Stepping up to an R230 with CV's and your limiting drive train component will be the stub axles. If you upgrade those, then you would have to be producing some serious HP with very sticky tires to need a stronger rear end.
Just another opinion.
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Just rebuild your stock brakes. New pads and rotors at a minimum. Check for leaks, replace the rubber brake lines as needed and rebuild the calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder as needed. If you are not sure how to check any of those things, then just take it to Midas and write a check.
Sort out the problems with your stock units before you start throwing aftermarket parts at the problem.
One last thing. My early 240 with well maintained brakes would sometimes feel like the pedal just ran out of travel. It would usually happen when I needed to do a fast stop like you describe. It is my opinion the early 240's had a master cylinder that was too small for even the stock brakes. The problem is made much worse if the rubber brake lines are old and swelling more than new hoses. I swapped to a 15/16 MC from a ZX and put in stainless steel brake lines. Cured the foot through the floor board problem for me even with otherwise stock everything else.
BUT just do a basic brake job first to make sure it isn't something stupid like being low on fluid.
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Someone correct me if I am wrong, but you get at most a couple of inches of fore aft movement of the engine and tranny before you butt up against the firewall. Can't believe you got the engine far enough back to actually overwhelm the rear suspension. Look at Phantom's recent thread on his weight distribution. A stock Z is what, 51-49? Even with a 40-60 split on a 3000# 280 you are only talking about at most an extra 300 some pounds on the rear wheels. About what you would expect with a passenger and some scuba gear in the rear hatch.
You have some other problems.
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That place up in Bristol hasn't had a lot on ebay as of late. I wonder if they have more that they don't list. I am about an hour or two south of there, so when time comes that is probably where I will go also. They sure sell LT1-t56 combos for a lot less money than the LS set ups.
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It helps to be gay and have too much time on your hands
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The pressure doesn't bleed off that rapidly on the backstroke. If you just let up the pedal and hit it a second time right away, it will put a slightly larger volume of fluid in the lines.
Maybe you just need the larger 15/16 inch bore ZX MC.
Also I don't remember you mentioning anything about adjusting or replacing the proportioning valve. I have no experience with this particular swap so i don't know if you need to do anything differently. But it would just make sense that the new discs will need a different balance than the old drums.
Finally I remember old posts talking about the stock drums having a check valve to try and keep some residual pressure on them. May want to resurect some of those threads.
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Hard to diagnose these things over the internet but it sounds like a master cylinder problem to me. Seems like a stuck caliper means nothing moves. I would tink it would be just like taking the caliper off and capping off the line. If anything a stuck caliper should have less give than a working or leaking one.
Maybe your MC is not big enough? Do the new calipers have a bigger volume than the old?
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The point I think Pop is trying too hard to make[/b'] ....
Point well taken.
Mike and Jon have said all I was trying to say.
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I think you dont know the whole situation and you should keep you opinions to yourself.
thanks
Well then maybe you should post the rest of the story on the web somewhere so I will know it.
If you don't want to be held up to public scrutiny then why go public with it? Isn't this what you want, attention?
But like I said. Sorry there has to be a name attached to this video. It is not fair to pick on you personally. When I first watched that video, as soon as it went out on the road I started to cringe. When you guys started into the tunnel I thought this doesn't look good. And when I saw only cars going on tow trucks and not people on stretchers I thought "well hope that lesson wasn't too expensive". I am honestly glad no one got seriously hurt (if that is the case). The specifics may be a mystery but the situation was all too predictable.
But if you get defensive, fail to gain a little humility and only examine the excuses then you are bound to relive the situation.
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that tunnel was wet inside and austin was the only "kid" on the group. There were like i said 5 or 6 other adults who crashed in that tunnel at the same time. I know austin personally and he is a real cool guy and can drive really well
Not to belabor the point, but your statement is self contradictory. A “good†driver anticipates problems like a wet road being obscured by the low visibility in a tunnel and gives himself extra margin. Especially since he should realize his escape options are severely limited by the tunnel walls. The fact he got in a 6 car pile up and knows the other 5 drivers kind of makes this an impossible argument for you to win. I am sure his insurance company agrees with that statement.
Like I said, I am not putting myself above anyone else and I wish there were some way to make this point without anyone taking it personally. But if you are out screwing around in an uncontrolled environment like public roads and get bitten, then you are simply not a good driver. Period.
And the fact he would put such an accident to music and post it on the web says something else altogether.
So someone knows the answer to this: How do they come up with "value" of a home...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I think there is a one time exemption on capital gains tax. She should be alright.