Hotrodpez

It is up to YOU to decide how much you want this. I will say this though: I did one RHD conversion on a GUTTED 67 VW beetle that I was turning into a Volksrod (look it up, if you've never seen one). It was a royal PITA. And VW bugs don't even have much of a dash... Its just a flat piece of steel. It was goddamn annoying at McDonald's, it pissed off the cops (as if the fact that my windshield was 7 inches tall and I had no fenders, one inch of ground clearance, motorcycle tailights, and 4 straight pipe exhaust wasn't enough), and it took me a month to learn how to shift backwards (ever think of that one? kept grinding first looking for third) You gotta re-do all your brake lines, throttle linkage, clutch lines... all for what? I'd rather put that time and money into something useful like custom suspension grafts, etc.

I am planning to go with an SDS EM-4 6F. This obviously will require that I remove the dizzy and use crank trigger magnets. I was thinking of another distributor-less system I have used on several VW Type One engines. This system used a custom billet distributor "cap" that contained the sensor, and a "rotor" with the magnets in it that replaced the stock rotor. I was considering making a setup like this for the L engine... and then it occurred to me, why not replace the entire distributor with a custom unit that eliminated all mechanical and vacuum advance parts, as well as the distributor body with a small machined billet aluminum "trigger unit". I would probably use the stock distributor shaft. The advantage to this is it is a universal system that could be compatible with any fuel and ignition management system. It could even be constructed with two or more sensors (ex. one hall effect and one magnetic, for use with two separate systems). It would eliminate the need to mount crank pulley magnets or trigger wheels, as well as mounting the sensors. And it would be friggen cool! So all this considered, I could fab one up on my lathe, but that would take a while and it would be easier to do if I could design one up in 3D, and have it CNC machined. This will obviously increase the cost for a single one-off piece for me, but is there any interest in doing a small run of something like this? Or have I once again out-thunk myself and someone already makes this?

So, that is my question. Through searching, I have determined that it is POSSIBLE to use Throttle in a Bottle on a turbo'd L28, and has been done a few times. What I was wondering is if it is a good idea considering the following: junkyard L28ET, with good compression, and re-done head, intercooler, about 10psi boost, and an SDS fuel and spark management system, new injectors... I know it CAN be done, but how do these L motors handle it?

I am thankful I have an earlier non-emissions intake laying around. Heck of a lot less holes and crap to deal with when I do my turbo swap.

Well, I'm not so much concerned about "stock", but I've never been a big fan of being "flashy"... It doesn't matter if you paint your engine block Candy Purple and polish everything, your car is still slow. I'd rather spend my money to make power, not looks. But in any case, I have to spray paint them *some* color, so why not stock? Make the people at car shows that don't know Datsuns that well wonder if it came from the factory with a gigantic turbo...

I would be interested...

haha

All right... I'll give you a list, because apparently some of our members here can't seem to be helpful or friendly. Step one: Source a turbo exhaust manifold off ebay. You can find....... Aw crap did you really expect us to MAKE you a special little list??? Sorry... I'm a little bitter because I got my first banishment to the Tool Shed today... And I think this thread's next.

So I've done some searching, but I can't really seem to find this info. What would the color have been (factory) for most of the parts of a Z? I know the engine block is blue, but what about trans, driveshaft, differential, control arms, and struts? The head and valve cover were raw aluminum, right?

First of all, be happy that your 240 has an L28 in it. You have a more powerful motor in a lighter car. Now, you need to look for other things that may be different. Rear differential? Transmission? I'm going to guess that it has carbs on it, but keep in mind, L28's came with fuel injection. Most likely they used a 240's distributor in your car, because the 280's dizzy required an external transistor ignition box. (My 280 has this, it is faulty, and I will be tearing it out and replacing the dizzy with one from a 240 as well as an aftermarket ignition system).

Those work REALLY well, I've seen them at use on sand dune monsters at Glamis. No fuel slosh, no pump needed, no starvation. Only downside (for a daily driver) is the lack of propane filling stations. I would look into using removable propane cylinders like forklifts do, so you could have one or two at home as spares. P.S. Some people complain about the smell of burnt propane. Go to Home Depot and smell their forklifts. If you're okay with your car smelling like that, the go ahead!

Well, the worst of the rust on my Z is centered around where the driver's side 'frame rail' terminates into the floor of the car under the seat, and it extends out to the rocker panel in front of the rear tire. In cutting out the rust, I looked under and saw that I could see the exhaust in the trans tunnel. And, so, I got this idea: Glasspack in trans tunnel, alongside trans. Instead of repairing floor pan to stock, fab up a small 'tunnel' and turn the exhaust 90 deg to come out in front of the rear tire in the rocker panel. Any reason why this would be a bad idea?

Step one. Take off the hose going to the dizzy and put it in your mouth and suck. With the dizzy open, see if it moves. If not, the diaphragm is bad. Step two. Make sure you dont have a vacuum leak.

I agree. I want my engine to look as if it might have come that way from the factory to people who aren't real familiar with Datsuns.

I dunno if they even make them anymore. I sent JCR an email, but still have no reply. Might have to try to find a used manifold and yank a supercharger off a Mercedes or Toyota.

You arent getting enough fuel pressure or flow. Could be pump, filter, or lines. get a little compressor air pressure gauge and a barb from Home Depot. Put em together. You can use this to check your fuel pressure at various intervals throughout the car.

Doesn't Mylar have some plastic - like properties? Will it melt? I think as far as heat reduction goes, wrap the header tubes in fiberglass tape. Not only will this reduce radiant heat onto the intake runners, but will also help with scavenging (hotter gases don't slow down)

The JCR online catalog- supercharger page: http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page24.html

Ah... it is this: I want one of these intakes. Anybody got one for sale?

Something like that... I dunno about a 4bbl carb at a 45* angle though.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest something my twisted mind just came up with... Picture this: Arizona Z manifold With a Weiand or Whipple long-snout blower on top And dual down-draft Weber 44s on top of that sticking out of the hood... with long chrome air horns...

OK. I've done my research and I have decided to go with the Crane XR 3000. I have a few questions first that I couldn't find out. I am re-doing all engine compartment wiring, so that doesn't matter. I have a few 240 points-type dizzys as well as a '76 280 dual magnetic pickup dizzy. Which would I be better off using, and in that case, would I have to order the specific Crane system? I want to get rid of all the stock '76 engine bay wiring. Secondly, as I do not have the system yet, but would like to get started on the wiring soon, do these systems just require a HOT wire from ign switch and a ground? And how do they send out Tach signal? Single wire? Or.... I really hope somebody knows this...

Here's the problem. On the stock intake there was a one-way valve that limited air flow. The biggest mistake is to connect that tube directly to the intake manifold and then put a little K&N on the valve cover breather. HUGE vacuum leak. What I did with mine is to put a K&N on both that tube as well as on the valve cover. Works fine, but it gets a little oily, so my new plan is to pull a card out of the VW world and use an external breather / oil trap can, with both the valve cover and that tube in the block running to it. Here's a pic of one just like the one I have lying around somewhere and must locate...

So... IMHO, the MSA Type III body kits are beautiful... except for the rear bumper. It is way, way too square for the flowing lines of a Z. So I am ordering mine with no rear piece. My question is what are you guys with the modified / shaved / smoothed rear valances using to do it? Fiberglass? Steel? And of those who have done so, which is a better bet? I.E. BlueOvalZ... beautiful rear. Is that steel?

Got some PB Blaster at Home Depot. Stuff works pretty darn good. That and some careful torching got the bolts off. (Note to self: PB Blaster is flammable when hit with a propane torch )