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About hawaiiz

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  • Birthday 11/09/1967

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  1. Hi - Ill sell you mine - Its in verygood to excellent condition. I have been thinking about changing some design ideas and would be willing to part with it. HawaiiZ
  2. I just picked up this chevy van. New reman trans. Runs good. VIN 1GAHG39K0RF126978 Year/Make/Model: 1994 CHEVROLET SPORTVAN G30 Body Style: EXTENDED SPORT VAN Engine Type: 5.7L V8 TBI OHV 16V GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT 9001-10,000 GVWR LINE VAN 4X2 SERIES 1 TON L05 5.7L V8 TBI K GT5 4.10:1 MT1 4L80E 4 SPD OD, (HD) PCM CONTROLED SHIFT PCM LOCK TORQUE CONVERTER 1st 2.48 2nd 1.48 3rd 1.00 4th 0.75 R 2.08 CMD : PLANT CODE, FLINT MI C6W : GVW RATING, 9200 LBS GT5 : AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO (DUP WITH GT8) JB8 : 8RAKE, POWER, DISC, DRUM 10000 LBS K60 : GENERATOR, 100 AMP L05 : ENGINE, GAS, B CYL, 5.7L, 1 TBI, V8 MT1 : TRANSMISSION, 4 SPD, AUTO W/ELECT CONTROLS H.D. (HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E) MX0 : MERCHANDISED, TRANS, AUTO PROVISIONS, O/D Good or bad swap V8 swap candidate What I have read The "best" engine to use would be a 1996-2002 Vortec 350. It has the great flowing "Vortec" heads, a Factory Roller camshaft, sometimes 4 bolt mains, Powdered Metal connecting rods that are stronger than the old "PINK" rods, Cast Aluminum pistons with a slight dish that give 9.4:1 compression with 64 cc chambers. Etc. What do you think
  3. My hatch panel looks like that - Im tackling it next, glad to see the great work. I cannot find a replacement panel or doner so Im gonn have to fab it.
  4. Excellent Question - The 1 1/4 ball hitch I ordered is 12" from the ball to the hitch pin, that get me into the tire well. So I will need to open the hatch and the tire well (now called my storage well) to dissconect and reconnect the pin. Any more thoughts on the rear spoiler anyone. Im still undecided, but have decided to lose the moulding bumpers for sure now. Thanks HawaiiZ
  5. Hi Dareon Can you get any pics of this spoiler installed??? Anyone? I am having some serious 2nd thoughts about that spoiler. 1st it on the last pic its very busy looking corner - I could ----the side light - But Id still require some type of custom side light ----Remove the trim guards ie side bumpers - I like the trim, I don't want to have to park at the back of the parking lot 2nd Original plans were to fill in all the seams ie Filler or Fiberglass ----Concerns about cracks come up ----I could leave it as a bolt on but hmmm not as good looking I think. 3nd The spoiler is just plain big, But I could grow to love maybe PS The spoiler is very well built and fits nicely and I belive is kind of rare.
  6. Not sure if this is the place for it but I would like to shave my door locks and hatch button, I also thought it would be trick to have a 3 or 4 button remote Button 1 - Unlock/Lock Doors Button 2 - Unlock Doors and Roll down Windows Button 3 - Lock Doors and Roll Up Windows - Not necessary though Button 4 - Rear Hatch Realease So questions are Id like to get rid of the factory manual window regulator alltogather http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...spagenameZWDVW These are generally for flat glass - Has anyone ever put them into a s30? Also will need to add the one-touch kit as well as the remote kit ususally comes with an alarm as well.
  7. Man, things were going good yesterday, I got out to the barn at 9:00am, got the patches welded in. Took Lunch posted in welding section, then back at the barn and what to do. I started on the bumper, I thought id clean it up. It was coing along great and then I thought Id weld up some seam on the inside of the bumper so its sealed and all. Well, I lesson I knew from before, when you weld, things move and I welded it up all right, solid as can be, but each weld shrunk the seam slightly and it ended up making more of a curve. And I had it nearly perfect before, I could pull it in and out easy and it fit like a glove, now it about 1 inch to curved. Damn. I also mocked up the spoiler, bigger then I thought it would be, I hope the color matching and glassing keeps it from looking so big, and not a bad fit, they are not bolted down yet just sitting there, Aslo the rear hatch drivers side doesnt like to sit flush, took off the wedge thing no diff, removed the rubber gasket and it came down fine. More fine tuning I guess. Every turn brings somthing new. I found quite a bit of bondo on the passenger rear lower quarter and also found rust, someoned bondoed up the weep holes, Idiot. More work. I guess Im gonna have to redo the bumper, since most of the design work is don it shouldn't take but a few hours. Nice thing about steel is you can chop off the problems and start with new steel, Now im glad I bought a 20ft peice. This time I will tack weld in place and then brace it for final welding and finish. Crappy phone pics.
  8. Need some welding advice - Posted in the welding section - Thanks
  9. Hi All - Sorry Crappy Phone pics - Need some welding advice Do I need to put patches over the Tie Down Bracket Indetions??? Pictured to the left of the patch below And what about the bolt holes?? Thanks HawaiiZ This was my first attempt at welding sheetmetal - Lincoln 100 fluz core So far seems OK - Should I complete a bead all the way around or is just stiching OK Getting there - each patch took about an hour. Thanks
  10. Excellent write up - I have read it before Since Im still not sure what to do Ive been just spray can primer after I work on an area. Since I live in hawaii I called some paint supply stores but shipping is expensive and since its considered hazardous even more expensive. Since I most likey will be repair/repaint every 3 years or so (due to rust coming back until I can do the full rotissiery deal) I plan to use inexpensive paint (single stage enamel ??) What line of primers should I order or is the stuff at Napa OK?? Thanks Again HawaiiZ Quote List primers in order of application... Zinc ChromateUsed in lieu of phosphoric acid treatment on bare metal. It does not adhere well to paint so limit your overlap if painting a patch of bare steel on a painted panel. IMHO it should only be used on metal with no history of severe corrosion. If the part is too complex to acid treat then go ahead. Since it's better to treat the metal I rarely use ZC primer and skip straight to epoxy. ZC needs to be topcoated "immediately" because it is not a moisture barrier. Epoxy PrimerCan't sing enough praise of this stuff. It provides an impermeable barrier to moisture. Apply it to treated steel or over ZC primer. On areas that have been sanded through during bodywork reapply to seal the body filler and metal before applying next primer. Some epoxy primers can be thinned with acetone to spray more evenly or through a smaller nozzle. If the car has a chance of being exposed to weather then apply unthinned. Some epoxies need to "stage" or set for 15 -30 min after mixing. The more expensive epoxies are ready to spray as soon as they are mixed. Always stir the can with a fresh stick and never allow any mixed epoxy or it's hardener to come in contact with the unmixed stuff in the can. If not topcoated within a few days epoxy needs to be scuffed and reapplied as the chemical bonding to the next layer won't happen when it is cured. Apply body filler over 40 grit scuffed epoxy. After sanding body filler there may be bare metal exposed. Reapply epoxy to this area before leaving bare metal exposed for more than a day. Avoid long term exposure of epoxy to sunlight. Sprayable Polyester Filler Just like the name says it is polyester glazing putty in a gun sprayable form! In PPG's Omni line it is known as... MX241 Gray/ MX245 Buff Polyester Primer/Filler. You only need this stuff if you are having issues with bodywork over large areas. It easily hides gouges in metal from coarse grit sandpaper. If you have a wavy panel due to sandblasting or have a large area of body filler to level out this stuff is the best! Hoods, doors, esentially any flat areas can be made mirror flat with this stuff. (Assuming you sand it properly) As an example of it's filling abilities one guy taped a quarter on a panel, buried and completely hid it after sanding. That is almost the limit of it's filling abilities. Mix it in small quantities as it sets quickly! Mix only enough to get you through a single coat over the affected area. Clean your gun out after each pass. The pot life may say 45 minutes but even in my 2.0 tipped primer gun it starts coming out like molasses at the end of the second pass. (Could be the Florida heat) High-Build Primer Any paint defects such as orange peel or sand scratches cannot be hidden by the topcoat. High build primer is applied prior to topcoating . High build is wet sanded with 220 grit to knock the peaks off and finished with 400, progressing to 600 grit. 600 grit can be used as a final grade but there are sometimes adhesion issues with such a fine surface. Apply high build as booth time gets near so that a good chemical bond will occur. (Preferably less than three days) Hi-build hardens in the gun quickly so mix enough for one coat and clean your gun after each coat on hot days. Apply this stuff good and wet and avoid spraying too far away as it will dry before it hits the surface. This will leave you with little balls of primer sitting on top of the rest. Try not to get it in areas which you won't be sanding. If you do then you can use a scotch-brite pad to remove/level it. Primer/Sealer This is applied immediately before the topcoat goes on. As the name says it "seals" the work so that nothing underneath can get through and vice/versa. Consider it insurance that is optional but HIGHLY recommended. I've painted without using it. If you are using a cheap basecoat or a single stage with lots of translucence (clear) then you need to use it.
  11. Wow sold for $104 who whudda thought. I better pull mine off the parts car and refurbish it.
  12. ohhh scarry...was that a new full priced hood? Ib be pissed big time.
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