hawaiiz

Hi - Ill sell you mine - Its in verygood to excellent condition. I have been thinking about changing some design ideas and would be willing to part with it. HawaiiZ

I just picked up this chevy van. New reman trans. Runs good. VIN 1GAHG39K0RF126978 Year/Make/Model: 1994 CHEVROLET SPORTVAN G30 Body Style: EXTENDED SPORT VAN Engine Type: 5.7L V8 TBI OHV 16V GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT 9001-10,000 GVWR LINE VAN 4X2 SERIES 1 TON L05 5.7L V8 TBI K GT5 4.10:1 MT1 4L80E 4 SPD OD, (HD) PCM CONTROLED SHIFT PCM LOCK TORQUE CONVERTER 1st 2.48 2nd 1.48 3rd 1.00 4th 0.75 R 2.08 CMD : PLANT CODE, FLINT MI C6W : GVW RATING, 9200 LBS GT5 : AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO (DUP WITH GT8) JB8 : 8RAKE, POWER, DISC, DRUM 10000 LBS K60 : GENERATOR, 100 AMP L05 : ENGINE, GAS, B CYL, 5.7L, 1 TBI, V8 MT1 : TRANSMISSION, 4 SPD, AUTO W/ELECT CONTROLS H.D. (HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E) MX0 : MERCHANDISED, TRANS, AUTO PROVISIONS, O/D Good or bad swap V8 swap candidate What I have read The "best" engine to use would be a 1996-2002 Vortec 350. It has the great flowing "Vortec" heads, a Factory Roller camshaft, sometimes 4 bolt mains, Powdered Metal connecting rods that are stronger than the old "PINK" rods, Cast Aluminum pistons with a slight dish that give 9.4:1 compression with 64 cc chambers. Etc. What do you think

My hatch panel looks like that - Im tackling it next, glad to see the great work. I cannot find a replacement panel or doner so Im gonn have to fab it.

Excellent Question - The 1 1/4 ball hitch I ordered is 12" from the ball to the hitch pin, that get me into the tire well. So I will need to open the hatch and the tire well (now called my storage well) to dissconect and reconnect the pin. Any more thoughts on the rear spoiler anyone. Im still undecided, but have decided to lose the moulding bumpers for sure now. Thanks HawaiiZ

Wow - Looks a little like heaven to me.

Hi Dareon Can you get any pics of this spoiler installed??? Anyone? I am having some serious 2nd thoughts about that spoiler. 1st it on the last pic its very busy looking corner - I could ----the side light - But Id still require some type of custom side light ----Remove the trim guards ie side bumpers - I like the trim, I don't want to have to park at the back of the parking lot 2nd Original plans were to fill in all the seams ie Filler or Fiberglass ----Concerns about cracks come up ----I could leave it as a bolt on but hmmm not as good looking I think. 3nd The spoiler is just plain big, But I could grow to love maybe PS The spoiler is very well built and fits nicely and I belive is kind of rare.

Not sure if this is the place for it but I would like to shave my door locks and hatch button, I also thought it would be trick to have a 3 or 4 button remote Button 1 - Unlock/Lock Doors Button 2 - Unlock Doors and Roll down Windows Button 3 - Lock Doors and Roll Up Windows - Not necessary though Button 4 - Rear Hatch Realease So questions are Id like to get rid of the factory manual window regulator alltogather http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...spagenameZWDVW These are generally for flat glass - Has anyone ever put them into a s30? Also will need to add the one-touch kit as well as the remote kit ususally comes with an alarm as well.

Man, things were going good yesterday, I got out to the barn at 9:00am, got the patches welded in. Took Lunch posted in welding section, then back at the barn and what to do. I started on the bumper, I thought id clean it up. It was coing along great and then I thought Id weld up some seam on the inside of the bumper so its sealed and all. Well, I lesson I knew from before, when you weld, things move and I welded it up all right, solid as can be, but each weld shrunk the seam slightly and it ended up making more of a curve. And I had it nearly perfect before, I could pull it in and out easy and it fit like a glove, now it about 1 inch to curved. Damn. I also mocked up the spoiler, bigger then I thought it would be, I hope the color matching and glassing keeps it from looking so big, and not a bad fit, they are not bolted down yet just sitting there, Aslo the rear hatch drivers side doesnt like to sit flush, took off the wedge thing no diff, removed the rubber gasket and it came down fine. More fine tuning I guess. Every turn brings somthing new. I found quite a bit of bondo on the passenger rear lower quarter and also found rust, someoned bondoed up the weep holes, Idiot. More work. I guess Im gonna have to redo the bumper, since most of the design work is don it shouldn't take but a few hours. Nice thing about steel is you can chop off the problems and start with new steel, Now im glad I bought a 20ft peice. This time I will tack weld in place and then brace it for final welding and finish. Crappy phone pics.

Need some welding advice - Posted in the welding section - Thanks

Hi All - Sorry Crappy Phone pics - Need some welding advice Do I need to put patches over the Tie Down Bracket Indetions??? Pictured to the left of the patch below And what about the bolt holes?? Thanks HawaiiZ This was my first attempt at welding sheetmetal - Lincoln 100 fluz core So far seems OK - Should I complete a bead all the way around or is just stiching OK Getting there - each patch took about an hour. Thanks

Excellent write up - I have read it before Since Im still not sure what to do Ive been just spray can primer after I work on an area. Since I live in hawaii I called some paint supply stores but shipping is expensive and since its considered hazardous even more expensive. Since I most likey will be repair/repaint every 3 years or so (due to rust coming back until I can do the full rotissiery deal) I plan to use inexpensive paint (single stage enamel ??) What line of primers should I order or is the stuff at Napa OK?? Thanks Again HawaiiZ Quote List primers in order of application... Zinc ChromateUsed in lieu of phosphoric acid treatment on bare metal. It does not adhere well to paint so limit your overlap if painting a patch of bare steel on a painted panel. IMHO it should only be used on metal with no history of severe corrosion. If the part is too complex to acid treat then go ahead. Since it's better to treat the metal I rarely use ZC primer and skip straight to epoxy. ZC needs to be topcoated "immediately" because it is not a moisture barrier. Epoxy PrimerCan't sing enough praise of this stuff. It provides an impermeable barrier to moisture. Apply it to treated steel or over ZC primer. On areas that have been sanded through during bodywork reapply to seal the body filler and metal before applying next primer. Some epoxy primers can be thinned with acetone to spray more evenly or through a smaller nozzle. If the car has a chance of being exposed to weather then apply unthinned. Some epoxies need to "stage" or set for 15 -30 min after mixing. The more expensive epoxies are ready to spray as soon as they are mixed. Always stir the can with a fresh stick and never allow any mixed epoxy or it's hardener to come in contact with the unmixed stuff in the can. If not topcoated within a few days epoxy needs to be scuffed and reapplied as the chemical bonding to the next layer won't happen when it is cured. Apply body filler over 40 grit scuffed epoxy. After sanding body filler there may be bare metal exposed. Reapply epoxy to this area before leaving bare metal exposed for more than a day. Avoid long term exposure of epoxy to sunlight. Sprayable Polyester Filler Just like the name says it is polyester glazing putty in a gun sprayable form! In PPG's Omni line it is known as... MX241 Gray/ MX245 Buff Polyester Primer/Filler. You only need this stuff if you are having issues with bodywork over large areas. It easily hides gouges in metal from coarse grit sandpaper. If you have a wavy panel due to sandblasting or have a large area of body filler to level out this stuff is the best! Hoods, doors, esentially any flat areas can be made mirror flat with this stuff. (Assuming you sand it properly) As an example of it's filling abilities one guy taped a quarter on a panel, buried and completely hid it after sanding. That is almost the limit of it's filling abilities. Mix it in small quantities as it sets quickly! Mix only enough to get you through a single coat over the affected area. Clean your gun out after each pass. The pot life may say 45 minutes but even in my 2.0 tipped primer gun it starts coming out like molasses at the end of the second pass. (Could be the Florida heat) High-Build Primer Any paint defects such as orange peel or sand scratches cannot be hidden by the topcoat. High build primer is applied prior to topcoating . High build is wet sanded with 220 grit to knock the peaks off and finished with 400, progressing to 600 grit. 600 grit can be used as a final grade but there are sometimes adhesion issues with such a fine surface. Apply high build as booth time gets near so that a good chemical bond will occur. (Preferably less than three days) Hi-build hardens in the gun quickly so mix enough for one coat and clean your gun after each coat on hot days. Apply this stuff good and wet and avoid spraying too far away as it will dry before it hits the surface. This will leave you with little balls of primer sitting on top of the rest. Try not to get it in areas which you won't be sanding. If you do then you can use a scotch-brite pad to remove/level it. Primer/Sealer This is applied immediately before the topcoat goes on. As the name says it "seals" the work so that nothing underneath can get through and vice/versa. Consider it insurance that is optional but HIGHLY recommended. I've painted without using it. If you are using a cheap basecoat or a single stage with lots of translucence (clear) then you need to use it.

Wow sold for $104 who whudda thought. I better pull mine off the parts car and refurbish it.

ohhh scarry...was that a new full priced hood? Ib be pissed big time.

Oh one more thing, I tack welded upside down in place to get a perfect fit and got some real nice burn pot marks on me. Good Fun I reccomend it.

Hi All I had a couple hours to play last night so I built the support for the bumper side of the hitch. Ive designed it to be able to remove the bumper if needed I also wanted the least amount of harware on the exterior so this mounts on the inside of the rear behind the gas tank. This minimized water pockets. I may weld a bead that can be grinded of for bumper removal if its wiggles under a trailer load.. But Ive stood on it already without even the extra bracket I just built and it holds pretty solid already. I know or it still looks like frakenstien but ill put some lipstick on it soon enough... Still not sure how to plug the hole when hitch not in use, plastic cap with maybe a Z logo emblem might be cool....or 3rd brake light..hmmm I likey - the 3 peice spoiler i plan to glass in..mmmm..happy joy One of my parts cars had these 5 slots, I sanded and cleaned them - that was a whole day in itself. Got the Lug nuts, washers and special ball hitch on the way. Still havent locked down the center caps, I dont really care for the 4 ear style center cap...any ideas? Also need the Z logo for the center caps. from that to this, I actaully put the rim on the car, locked on wheel and idled it in gear while I wire brushed, wet sanded then scotch bright. I still need to figure out what to use to seal the bright aluminun. Costco came through - installed nice stainless valve stems and weights on the inside. But this was weird, they couldnt get the tires on, the rims have bead locks - Sema rated rims - anyways had to bring the rims back home, reinstall the gas tank, and do the run in gear trick and grind down and round out the bead locks. Those BFG Traction TA's. More pics will come when I get it cleaned up and mounted. HawaiiZ

I had some ideas about selling as well. End selling date around paydays End selling time in the evening when people are drunk and tired....haha I guy I know bid a $17000 kit car in Florida, He lives here in hawaii, He was on some valiuims or something, now he cant sell it for 10k. Just some thoughts, dont know if they work though - HawaiiZ

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Do-It-In-A-Datsun-license-plate-frame-240Z-260Z-280Z-Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50451QQihZ001QQitemZ110146811721QQrdZ1 Gotta love it I just happen to have one of these on my parts Z, not in as good of shape though. I am gonna put it on my Z when its done. But $50 bucks for it wouldn't be to bad either.

I had a hour this morning to play with the wirefeed welder. I put in some new .30 flux core wire and new tip. I practiced stitch welding on some 22guage galve sheet metal. So far so good. Build the cofidence a little. So question - I have the 3 peice spoiler to install and I want to intergrate it into the sheetmetal. Yesterday I was looking at Fiberglass. The spoiler is fiberglass, should I try to glass it in or better to use gold filler?? Any thoughts HawaiiZ

Aloha - Yes I have a gallon of ospho I picked up. Ive heard it not good to leave under certian primerspaints. I like the idea, its cheap insurance, I imagine Ill still sand it off before the filler or epoxy primer then. Thanks HawaiiZ

Aloha All - Never done auto body before but here goes What should I use to protect exposed and new sheetmetal between procedures - Grind, cut, weld, shape before epoxy primer/Body Filler Im leaning tword spray can primers that Ill sand off before filler is applied, and if so does the brand of primer matter?? Also is using Rage Extreme, should I still use "Metal to Metal" for gaps and holes Etc??????? This weekend I will attempt to start patching holes. As I will only get about 6 hour runs once or twice a week I trying to come up with a plan. Im starting on the rear end, filling in the shave and mocking up the rear 3 peice spoiler I plan to fill in. Thanks in advanced. HawaiiZ

Homemade Rear Bumper with Trailer Hitch on a Shaved 280Z Hi guys - The pics suck because they are from my phone but I thought id show you all what Ive been doing in my spare time. Im not a body/paint but I plan to do as much as I can as best I can before I hand it off for final prep and paint. I wanted the Z shaved yet I still wanted a bumper, while it wont save me in a big crash it will stop the average shopping cart plus some.. Whats up with the intergrated trailer hitch you say. 2 reasons, Well 1st i live 90 minuites from civilization and when I go I buy lots of stuff, Costco Etc. 2nd when we cruize "Old car days" and we go camping Ill have tons of stuff, not to mention the bike rack and other accessories. I bought some 1x2 channel and cut slits in it to get the desired curve. All and all it turned out better then I thought it would, but we will see when it get grinded, sanded, primed and painted. This is where it bolts to the front of the spare tire well and get a connection to a main structure. I have about 12 hours in this so far incuding the design and shopping. Zya Later. HawaiiZ

Its a beautiful site to see. Persistence will pay off.

Aloha All Im looking to insall AC into my 280z. Hawaii has major humidity and is hot when directly in the sun. Although it has never had ac installed before I happen to have 2 280z parts cars both with factory AC. I am unfortunatly on a budget and this is the plan for what I have come up with so far. I have a buddy in the with a Electrical/Refrigeration business, has all the equipment but is not a automotive specialist. He also said I may be able to get away with flaring the ends and using hose clamps but we will see. So once its all in he will pull vac and charge etc. 1st Get as many reccomendations from those who know Condenser is tough, my used one look OK but not great - prob get newer used unit from a different or a new universal New universal Filter, filter dryer, new clamp on new hoses (Prob custom hose on high side) Purchace Sanden Adaper mount for 2.8 I6 Purchace rebuild sd505 or sd508 with clutch and vbelt pully (what do you guys think of those "like sanden compressors New"?? on ebay) Install bracket and compressor and make sure belt fits Figure out what kind of adapters are needed to plumb Sanden to Pull my dashboard - Not a fun thing but I have 2 to practice on Remove heater assemby Maybe - gut used assembly of heater core - as heat is rarley if ever used in Hawaii Install used/cleaned/Tested ac evaporator from parts cars Although I be happy using a switch with the AC being on all the time, Id like for - It to disenguage at full throttle - automatic Temperature control would be nice If my 30yo evaporator tests out ok, will it work ok with 134a Thanks to all in advance and I hope to buy my stuff from ACKITS great forum.